Make Racks Great Again

 

Now, that might sound a strange statement and before I go any further, I’m very fond of bike packing luggage-big seat packs and similar. Models such as Carradice SQR Tour, SQR Carradry CARRADICE CARRADRY SQR BAG | cycling-not-racing and Zefal R11 ZEFAL ADVENTURE R11 WATERPROOF SADDLEBAG | cycling-not-racing being prime examples

However, they’re great for some things but not a panacea. The SQR models are both capacious and very rigid, release and fit very reliably and feel bombproof. However, they are also quite heavy and their centre of gravity quite high.

The latter’s not great if you’re coming close to the 10kilo limit and obviously, metal posts only. Bike Packing luggage, such as frame bags can consume the lion’s share of a small frame’s main triangle and, unless you’ve dressed the tubes in helicopter tape, straps can quickly damage frame finishes.

Ursula and Muffin both sport four-point Topeak racks capable of hauling 25 kilos of kit. Two tier designs, such as this Topeak Uni Super Tourist DX Disc and Oxford HD Alloy Luggage Rack Oxford HD Alloy Luggage Rack | cycling-not-racing have a definite advantage if you are looking at pairing rack top bags and panniers-much easier to fit, remove and generally access. Positioning the panniers lower down also reduces the centre of gravity, thus less impact upon handling when heavily laden.

Now I know I said I wasn’t going to be whipping a Rack to Denise, but then she has the bosses and even though the Zefal R11 serves most of my riding needs, the option of carrying extra, especially now I’ve gone for a 2X 36/26 setup broadens horizons. Maybe it’s indicative of a deeper wanderlust, the desire to pack up and figuratively, piss off.  

Racks afford excellent lateral stiffness, are much cheaper to refinish than a frameset when the time comes.

I tend to bind old butyl around those areas where mounting hardware rests, thus preventing unsightly wear through the finish, which can also impair the rack’s structural integrity. Electrical, or duct tape are good alternatives. Aluminium alloy racks are pretty reliable-have been for many years, although they are more vulnerable to fatigue than cro-moly steels and though not impossible, harder to repair. Practices such as not laying bikes down on their luggage certainly help. Oh, and not exceeding the maximum payload.  

Madison were gracious enough to send me their M Part Summit Rear Pannier Rack. The design looks a close homage to Tortec’s Epic.  10mm 6061 aluminium alloy rod, treated to a satin black powder coated finish, a 5 year no quibble warrantee and a 25kilo maximum payload. Pretty typical of similar designs, including the Topeak Uni Super Tourist DX Disc and its non-disc counterpart. Topeak Uni SuperTourist 2.0 NonDisc Rack | cycling-not-racing. 715g complete is also pretty favourable.

The Topeak have a top plate, doubling as a splashguard, which is arguably more convenient on a dirt biased build, but less problematic if you’re running a top mount bag and easily made from a strip of scrap aluminium or composite-I’ve gone this route very effectively with a Tubus rack 25 years ago. There are a few mounting options, yet the fitting kit is much simpler than many, which may lack the outright adaptability of some designs, but meant fitting to Denise was a fifteen-minute job, including checks with the spirit level.  

Despite a relatively narrow platform, it’s proving a very reliable, dare I say perfect host for my long serving Carradice Super C rack bag.  It’s served on and off for 12 years and, testament to the brand’s build quality, it was quickly and easily rejuvenated with a few blasts of Stans No Tubes Bike Wash and some gentle agitation from this Green Oil Bicycle Brush GREEN OIL BIKE BRUSH REVIEW, which is another long-serving favourite of mine.

Bike Packing luggage does have some definite advantages though. Improved aerodynamics being an obvious example and this nimbler nature also comes into its own when tackling narrow singletrack and where appropriate sneaking through traffic in town. 

Some folks say, with justification, that it makes them consider exactly what they need, rather than defaulting to kitchen sink territory. There are perspectives, shades of grey, rather than absolutes. It’s about finding the formula that best works for you, your machines and riding contexts. A few outings have convinced me it was the right move and the rack itself offers excellent lateral stiffness.

Though hardly a puncture plague but another flat, this time the front Cinturato is giving me cause to consider going for something bullet proof, specifically Specialized Crossroads Armadillo, or indeed, Continental Contact Plus but the latter are a good bit heavier. I’ve upgraded the rim tape, ordered a fresh supply of Rema Tip Top patches, substituted the Cinturato Pirelli Cinturato Gravel M Tyre | cycling-not-racing for a 60Tpi Maxxis Ravager Maxxis Ravager TR Tyres | cycling-not-racing and for the time being, will reflect on things further.         

I've said it before, but the Specialized Crossroads Armadillo are a seriously capable mixed terrain tyre that aren't too ponderous over metalled road but have sufficient traction for hardpack and lighter cross country/trails duty. 38mm is arguably a little narrower than I traditionally take things a little wider on this front, although no issues with 32-35mm on my cyclo cross bikes.

They are a bit portlier than your typical gravel tyre thanks to the 60tpi wire bead only option.  Then of course, I've rekindled my obsession with Specialized's Rock Combo and wondered if the Hardpack of that era had ever been available in 700x40c. Not that I'd be paying retro prices, mind...

 

 

All Terrain

 

 

Tyres switched to trail specific, I’ve been getting some decent mileage on Ursula, exploring some fresh bridleways and unmade roads, far from the maddening crowd. A great opportunity to drop a few gears and assess the Lomo Zephyr Waterproof pannier’s mounting hardware...is it more, or less secure compared with Rixen Kaul Klick Fix along lumpy, bumpy sections...  

It’s a design seemingly identical to that employed by Brae. They seem very compatible with 10mm rack tubing, but I was interested to note they’ve been marginally more secure on the Topeak Uni Super Tourist DX Disc, compared with its standard sibling. Topeak Uni SuperTourist 2.0 NonDisc Rack | cycling-not-racing       

Lomo don’t cite a weight limit, but I’ve added this beefy Masterlock, bringing the present cargo to 5 kilos. Raising the saddle height by a few millimetres was another inspired move. The Peaty’s Link Lube All Weather continued to prove compatible with its Link Lube Dry stablemate, although it’s important to note I’d applied the All Weather once only trace amounts of Link Lube Dry clung to the links, rollers and cassette.  

Then of course, I found one of the KMC chain’s side plates beginning to splay, which was communicated via an intermittent clicking which initially suggested my right foot wasn’t fully engaged with the Shimano XT Shimano Deore XT PD-M8100 Pedals | cycling-not-racing cleat mechanism, thankfully, this struck at the close of, rather than mid-ride.  

I’m forming the conclusion that it's best to buy budget to mid-range chains pre-cut.  Again, an easy fix, pop the old link out and slip in another- a five-minute job, ten taking into account checking the other links for any potential damage, or obvious weakness.   

I’m still toying with purchasing a set of chain link pliers, which make cutting and joining chains that bit faster but only at the right price. Funnily enough, I’ve found the chain breaker on this Pedro's multi tool unusually accurate and ultimately pleasant to use.   

I decided to thoroughly degrease the drivetrain before applying some Motorex Chain Wax to the chain, since I fancied something lighter and cleaner. It's closer to a dry lube than a traditional wax but still requires several hours to cure-overnight is my default, though the visual clue is when it becomes a clear glaze.  

Temperatures were too low for the Blub Wax Lube Blub Wax Lube | cycling-not-racing  to cure effectively and as I’ve said before, it will require reapplication if the bike’s been resting up longer than 48 hours or so.  

My love for Shimano’s MW7Shimano MW7 (MW702) Gore Tex MTB Shoes | cycling-not-racing booties is well versed but generally drier conditions have seen me return to gravel shoes, specifically these Shimano RX6 Shimano SH RX600 Gravel Cycling Shoes | cycling-not-racing  . These have a similarly stiff sole, which is great for efficiency but without impairing walking, or running prowess.  Hedge clipping season signalled another flat-Ursula's rear Continental Cross King succumbing a mile or so from home.

That annoying, demoralising hiss and wet “futting” as I whizzed through the wet, muddied lane...No biggie- spare tube, check tyre casing, replace tube and reinflate. I always carry a pump of some kind but have been increasingly smitten with mini compressors. My favourite to date being this CycPlus AS2 Pro Max E. Pump CycPlus AS2 Pro Max E.Pump | cycling-not-racing which lives in Denise’s  luggage along with the Muc-Off Air Mach Carbon Pump Muc Off Airmach Carbon Pump | cycling-not-racing 

However, a decent hand pump is a lifeline, should the battery tank, or maybe you’ve had a couple of flats during a ride and before opportunity to recharge the mini compressor, or you’re out of CO2 cartridges. I’ve reached the conclusion that a frame fit model, such as this Topeak  Road Master Blaster Topeak Road Master Blaster Frame Pump | cycling-not-racing, or Zefal HPX (which is rumoured to be discontinued). Both will comfortably manage 100psi.  I’ve resurrected this Specialized Air Tool Switch, which at 25cm is compact enough to slip into a rack top bag, away from spatter and other destructive, wet gritty stuff.  

The Cross Kings do seem a little vulnerable to sharps, so I am contemplating a more resilient option at the rear- a look through my tyre stash will doubtless turn up something suitable-use what you got, after all. On the flip side, this new phase of hedge cutting provides ideal opportunity to evaluate the Pirelli Cinturato's puncture resistance... 

  

Changeable Season Selections

 

Mild, wet, and filthy conditions continued, and lanes continue the ‘cross meet narrative, meaning I was treating Denise to Sudsy bucket washes every four rides or, so, since we were filthy following every outing. Temperatures wandered between 8 and 11 degrees, the Lomo Winter Cycling Gloves Lomo Winter Cycling Gloves | cycling-not-racing continuing to impress with their comfort, dexterity, and moisture management. Not forgetting their wallet-friendly price.  

 

The Peaty’s Link Lube All Weather was doing its best to keep the chain lubed and silent without attracting too much grot but has still called for reapplication every 100 miles or so. I’d also noted some tainted links on Ursula’s new chain, which I’d treated to Peaty’s Link Lube Dry PEATYS LINK LUBE DRY CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing  

 

Then along came this Motorex Chain Wax. I'm told this is a blend of biodegradable oils trafficked by water. Pretty typical of wax formulas per se, as is the need for a surgically clean drivetrain first time round. Literally anything damp, or oily will prevent it adhering to the chain's rollers and inner sanctum-hence why its introduction coincided with Denise's deep clean.  

 

I'm curious to see whether it's a middle of the road fair weather blend, or whether it will stay put during less clement conditions. Thus far, it has poured nicely from the spout-I've given the bottle an enthused 60 second shake to mix everything and in temperatures around 6 degrees, the viscosity has been very controllable, notably less watery than several I've tested long term over the years. Not so much as a splash on the concrete. Controllable enough that I'd be tempted to use it on cables and metal on metal parts to keep them slick, though clean.  

 

For some folks, lube choice is less nuanced. Dry and waxy formulas are for dry and potentially dusty contexts, wet lubes are for wet, wintry conditions. I can see the logic to this but I'm not the only rider who prefers something a little less stodgy, dare we say gooey. Immersion waxes that work in a similar fashion to old school motorcycle blends are increasingly finding favour, given their cleanliness and in some instances, performance gains. Of the dropper bottle waxes, I've found Momum MIC the fastest curing and surprisingly durable.  

 

Waxes also work on the science of capturing grit and other contaminant within the top layer, scabbing away as you ride, leaving a light lubricant layer protecting the chain. Providing you're not introducing waxes of different chemical compositions; this can be topped up- no need to scrub clean beforehand. However, apart from the Momum MIC and a couple of others, most need several hours (ideally overnight) curing, which isn't necessarily a deal breaker, so long as you replenish before it's completely exhausted.  

 

This might not be the most convenient on an unexpectedly wet commute, or mid tour. That aside, formative impressions were quite positive. Having stripped the chain, cassette, jockey wheels and ring of any residual lube/gunk using the tag team of neat Fenwicks degreaser and Silca Gear Wipes. I wasn't in a rush, but I had 25 minutes all told to deep clean and lightly lube before popping the bike away and tackling other stuff.  I was also tempted to switch Ursula from the spikes, but the weather forecast predicted some freezing conditions and given the standing water and general gloop, going rubber up was the last thing I needed.  

 

¾ length bib knickers are a bit Marmite but I'm firmly in the love camp, which was brought home to me when I discovered I only had a pair of Funkier and the Castelli Entrata Castelli Entrata Thermal Bib Knickers | cycling-not-racing left, having worn through a set of Van Rysel, my favourite Primal Dawn TEST & REVIEW: PRIMAL DAWN MEN'S BIB KNICKERS and some bargain basement Ozzo. The latter having served me well for many years.  For me, they provide fabulous overlap between the seasons, most obviously Autumn to Winter and the early season to spring.  Conditions where tights are too toasty and shorts uncomfortably chill. My knees certainly appreciate the coverage and insulation. 

 

Waterproof luggage is a definite plus in all contexts but especially touring or commuting. The Lomo Waterproof panniers are certainly impressing me with their belt and braces weatherproofing. Mounting hardware is also very versatile, meaning they adjust to a wealth of different rack tubing diameters.  

 

The factory fitted internal sleeves have proven compatible with the Topeak Uni Super Tourist 2.0 Non-Disc Rack Topeak Uni SuperTourist 2.0 NonDisc Rack | cycling-not-racing   and its disc ready cousin mounted to my fixed gear winter/trainer. This opens and locks onto the rack by pulling the webbed nylon handle- convenient for quick getaways, although took me a few goes before it became intuitive.