Pruning, Tuning & Distraction

 

I resisted the cable pruning urge for all of 24 hours. Weary of bum and brain, I shuffled from my office chair and headed to the garage. Cursory inspection and some double-checking later, I’d marked the cut point and removed the front mech's inner wire. Measure twice, cut once; I performed a final check, snipped the outer cable and refitted. Save for pulling the inner wire through trimming, and restricting the front mech’s throw- done in five minutes.

Oh well, might as well…I was compelled to adjust Ursula’s rear brake. The cable had stretched slightly, which also saw me realigning the calliper.  This phase was a little more perfectionist- some might say obsessive. Having pulled the inner wire through a little further and snugged tight, I slackened the calliper mount, then used a rubber O-ring to bring the brake lever fully home. Theoretically, aligning the calliper, while I tightened it evenly. A technique that ultimately proved successful. No tickling, or rub, just smooth, progressive stopping. Yay! 

I’m a big fan of Topeak’s Uni Super Tourist 2.0 DX Rear Rack. Being a two-tier design, there’s no issues combining panniers and rack bags, whether their MTX Trunk Bag Topeak MTX Trunk Dry Bag | cycling-not-racing, or something more universal, such as my long serving Carradice. You can still pair these on a single tier design but whipping them on and off is more convoluted.

The rack is highly adjustable-great for various frame sizes and designs, regardless of whether they run discs, or not. 25 kilo maximum payload caters for most contexts, and the factory powder-coated finish is generally hardy.

My one minor niggle (aside from electroplated fasteners) is the rack’s design can hinder access to disc brake calliper mounts. A moot point tackled with a workshop, ball-end type but potentially tricky with some multi-tools. Singular L-type 5mm keys, or slender tools, such as this Oxford Torque R10 Mini Ratchet Set Oxford Torque RT10 Mini Ratchet Set | cycling-not-racing seem the best fits.   

250 mixed terrain miles on and the All-Mountain Style Miami Glide Chain Wax is also performing very well- clean and yet seemingly resilient. I’ve concluded that letting it cure for 7-8 hours reaps best reward-I sensed I was chancing it at three hours but was keen to take Ursula for a shakedown ride and it’s the sort of thing we’ve all done now and then.  Much the same story with Muffin’s KMC chain.

One thing led to another while I was contemplating the world and my place within it. Curious to see how compatible (or otherwise) Slick Juice was with titanium; I switched the super plush Sumo for this Torus. This also presented opportunity to top up Muffin’s frame preserve and having torqued everything correctly, I gave the post a polish and applied some protectant. Given the grease’s composition, I’m not expecting any issues with galvanic corrosion, but there’s only one way to find out.  

As the miles rack up, I’m increasingly impressed by the All-Mountain Sports Miani Glide Chain Was. Specifically its lubrication and temperature stability. It seems to penetrate and coat the chain’s pins and rollers, resulting in silent, crisp shifting, doesn’t attract grime and runs cleaner. In fairness, several waxes I’ve tested over the last year or two haven’t become a gooey mess when the mercury’s creeping beyond 23 degrees but some are definitely better than others. It's also proving quite effective on cables, cleat mechanisms and other metal-on-metal interfaces that we might want to lube “while we think of it”.

Leatt have graciously sent me some shoes and shades to play with. Now, I've defaulted to twin bolt gravel shoes for the past five years or so, on and off road since they strike an excellent balance of power transfer and walkability. Grippy soles offering excellent traction off the bike-even if it's just dis/mounting on an icy morning. Prior to this,  cross country mountain bike and sportier touring shoes were my go-tos. I'm still a big fan of these Quoc Pham, which are still going strong after thirteen years. Leather uppers are easy to care for and resist the elements very well-wipe clean with a damp cloth and treat with hide food, or shoe polish to keep them supple.

Back to the Leatt. These are the Trail 6.0, a trail shoe, which features a longer cleat channel, offering greater adjustment. Forward, for a more aggressive, dare we say, racy stance, further back for trail, all mountain and endurance genres. A little different. Synthetic uppers seem rugged, although means mesh panelling. Once upon a time, this meant very soggy feet when the heavens opened. However, the slightly wider fit means they are readily paired with thinner waterproof socks, such as these Muc-Off, which are firm favourites of mine. 

Leatt also sent me their  Ride Viz Sierra Sunglasses. These employ "Biopolymer" frames with stainless steel temples. Polycarbonate lenses employing polarising technology, promising to eliminate glare and therefore, eye strain are something we've come to expect. Their casual, slightly classic design looks less aggressively technical, so theoretically a good fit off the bike. The Rebound employ carbon fibre frames and arms, keeping the weight low and rubberised grippers offering tactile tenure. 

Technical kit doesn't have to look overtly technical. Some brands still offer more relaxed "touring" shirts and shorts, although this is a smaller market, which seemed to almost reach a point of extinction, but made a quiet comeback thanks to gravel's rise in popularity. Prior to that, messenger subculture had a fleeting influence between 2005 and 2009. I'm still fond of "messenger knickers" which were nicely cut, looked stylish off the bike-perfect when meeting friends for lunch and similar social contexts. 

Looser fit mountain bike clothing is similarly practical. Endura Humvee remain popular (justly so, in my view) and cross, trail, touring and gravel genres very capably. Pockets and stash points means they're also ultra practical, won't look out of place on a mountain bike, tourer, gravel, or road bike.  Great for everyday riding where Lycra is inappropriate or frowned upon.   Hmm...Might that be why the Shetlands are shunning me ... I'll close here with my long term review of the Topeak Uni Super Tourist DX Rack Disc  Topeak Uni Super Tourist DX Rack Disc | cycling-not-racing

 

 

Make Racks Great Again

 

Now, that might sound a strange statement and before I go any further, I’m very fond of bike packing luggage-big seat packs and similar. Models such as Carradice SQR Tour, SQR Carradry CARRADICE CARRADRY SQR BAG | cycling-not-racing and Zefal R11 ZEFAL ADVENTURE R11 WATERPROOF SADDLEBAG | cycling-not-racing being prime examples

However, they’re great for some things but not a panacea. The SQR models are both capacious and very rigid, release and fit very reliably and feel bombproof. However, they are also quite heavy and their centre of gravity quite high.

The latter’s not great if you’re coming close to the 10kilo limit and obviously, metal posts only. Bike Packing luggage, such as frame bags can consume the lion’s share of a small frame’s main triangle and, unless you’ve dressed the tubes in helicopter tape, straps can quickly damage frame finishes.

Ursula and Muffin both sport four-point Topeak racks capable of hauling 25 kilos of kit. Two tier designs, such as this Topeak Uni Super Tourist DX Disc and Oxford HD Alloy Luggage Rack Oxford HD Alloy Luggage Rack | cycling-not-racing have a definite advantage if you are looking at pairing rack top bags and panniers-much easier to fit, remove and generally access. Positioning the panniers lower down also reduces the centre of gravity, thus less impact upon handling when heavily laden.

Now I know I said I wasn’t going to be whipping a Rack to Denise, but then she has the bosses and even though the Zefal R11 serves most of my riding needs, the option of carrying extra, especially now I’ve gone for a 2X 36/26 setup broadens horizons. Maybe it’s indicative of a deeper wanderlust, the desire to pack up and figuratively, piss off.  

Racks afford excellent lateral stiffness, are much cheaper to refinish than a frameset when the time comes.

I tend to bind old butyl around those areas where mounting hardware rests, thus preventing unsightly wear through the finish, which can also impair the rack’s structural integrity. Electrical, or duct tape are good alternatives. Aluminium alloy racks are pretty reliable-have been for many years, although they are more vulnerable to fatigue than cro-moly steels and though not impossible, harder to repair. Practices such as not laying bikes down on their luggage certainly help. Oh, and not exceeding the maximum payload.  

Madison were gracious enough to send me their M Part Summit Rear Pannier Rack. The design looks a close homage to Tortec’s Epic.  10mm 6061 aluminium alloy rod, treated to a satin black powder coated finish, a 5 year no quibble warrantee and a 25kilo maximum payload. Pretty typical of similar designs, including the Topeak Uni Super Tourist DX Disc and its non-disc counterpart. Topeak Uni SuperTourist 2.0 NonDisc Rack | cycling-not-racing. 715g complete is also pretty favourable.

The Topeak have a top plate, doubling as a splashguard, which is arguably more convenient on a dirt biased build, but less problematic if you’re running a top mount bag and easily made from a strip of scrap aluminium or composite-I’ve gone this route very effectively with a Tubus rack 25 years ago. There are a few mounting options, yet the fitting kit is much simpler than many, which may lack the outright adaptability of some designs, but meant fitting to Denise was a fifteen-minute job, including checks with the spirit level.  

Despite a relatively narrow platform, it’s proving a very reliable, dare I say perfect host for my long serving Carradice Super C rack bag.  It’s served on and off for 12 years and, testament to the brand’s build quality, it was quickly and easily rejuvenated with a few blasts of Stans No Tubes Bike Wash and some gentle agitation from this Green Oil Bicycle Brush GREEN OIL BIKE BRUSH REVIEW, which is another long-serving favourite of mine.

Bike Packing luggage does have some definite advantages though. Improved aerodynamics being an obvious example and this nimbler nature also comes into its own when tackling narrow singletrack and where appropriate sneaking through traffic in town. 

Some folks say, with justification, that it makes them consider exactly what they need, rather than defaulting to kitchen sink territory. There are perspectives, shades of grey, rather than absolutes. It’s about finding the formula that best works for you, your machines and riding contexts. A few outings have convinced me it was the right move and the rack itself offers excellent lateral stiffness.

Though hardly a puncture plague but another flat, this time the front Cinturato is giving me cause to consider going for something bullet proof, specifically Specialized Crossroads Armadillo, or indeed, Continental Contact Plus but the latter are a good bit heavier. I’ve upgraded the rim tape, ordered a fresh supply of Rema Tip Top patches, substituted the Cinturato Pirelli Cinturato Gravel M Tyre | cycling-not-racing for a 60Tpi Maxxis Ravager Maxxis Ravager TR Tyres | cycling-not-racing and for the time being, will reflect on things further.         

I've said it before, but the Specialized Crossroads Armadillo are a seriously capable mixed terrain tyre that aren't too ponderous over metalled road but have sufficient traction for hardpack and lighter cross country/trails duty. 38mm is arguably a little narrower than I traditionally take things a little wider on this front, although no issues with 32-35mm on my cyclo cross bikes.

They are a bit portlier than your typical gravel tyre thanks to the 60tpi wire bead only option.  Then of course, I've rekindled my obsession with Specialized's Rock Combo and wondered if the Hardpack of that era had ever been available in 700x40c. Not that I'd be paying retro prices, mind...