Money For Old Rope?

 

It has been suggested by some that gravel is little more than repackaged 90s cross country mountain biking. As a means of starting debate, it’s a good opening line. I disagree. Any sweeping statement is by definition inaccurate. As with any other genre of riding, gravel will mean different things to different people. 

I removed the Topeak MTX Trunk Dry Bag Topeak MTX Trunk Dry Bag | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and gave the DX rack a clean. Some grittiness had made inroads into the centre channel’s powder coated finish and there was some fastener taint. Both easily remedied with a drop of chain lube and some Motoverde Waterless Wash & Wax Motoverde Waterless Wash & Wax | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). Lastly, I switched the Ergon All Road and Ritchey saddles around. Both have proven good choices for me, but I was keen to see how well the Ergon performed with Denise along rougher roads and trails. 

I would argue gravel is an evolution of cyclo cross, which started with models such as Specialized’s Tri Cross. Cyclo cross bikes with daily driver friendly features such as mudguard and carrier mounts, several bottle bosses and wider gearing. Running in parallel, we had the adventure bike, which were tour friendly cyclo cross bikes with longer wheelbases, bigger clearances and tour-friendly geometry, disc brakes, braze ons and a hint of MTB DNA. 

  

For me, gravel is the lovechild of adventure tourer and thoroughbred cyclo cross bike with some XC mountain bike DNA for good measure. Some more, some less. Some competition models are closer to pared to the essential's cross builds with bigger clearances and hydraulic stoppers. Though very capable, they’re a little too prescriptive for my riding needs/tastes. I’m also very fond of the suspension tech evolution-seat posts and stems, specifically but feel that a fully blown suspension for is, for me, pushing things too close to full blown mountain biking.   

 

In its purist sense, the internet is a fantastic resource (allowing of course, for the mine of mis and disinformation). It allows us to experience and share skills and information at lighting pace and in our own time. Since my early teens., I have always been fascinated by manufacturing processes.  

 

Frame building and enamelling/paint being the most obvious. Yes, these were the starting points- I’d needed a frame built/repaired and/or refinished by a skilled and sympathetic workshop, but it extended to other areas- an interest in building my own touring trailers along the lines of Bob Yak. During these years, aside from some welding and unrelated professional courses, much of my formal learning was academic. 

  

I have always held a desire to learn wet spray refinishing along with powder coating, if only for my own projects and amusements. Having finished listening to You Tube stories while drafting copy, You Tube waved some interesting channels and gravel cycling in particular. Paul Brodie’s  Painting my GRAVEL BIKE // Paul Brodie's Shop (youtube.com) 

 

channel where he discusses his latest gravel build and disc mount, before showing the start to finish wet spray. He’d gone for an orange and spatter effect. I was sat there transfixed as the grey primer tubes came to life in a bold orange. 

  

I’d seen this before obviously, and it’s never lost its magic. As with so many things, a skilled person makes it look effortless. I watched Mario Vaz in his paint shop and marvelled as the paint magically stopped at certain points.  

 

During our conversation, he reflected and said one of the things he really enjoyed about paintwork and stoving enamels in particular, was that every colour is different to work with. Aside from the obvious satisfaction in being able to undertake the work to a high standard, there’s the other long-standing narrative about me not wanting to be reliant on or beholden to anyone else. At least no more than is strictly necessary. 

 

I’d been contemplating the fixed gear winter/trainer’s gearing and chain tension. The Pirelli Angel DT’s flat was another tiny sharp that had grazed the tube, hence the slow pressure loss. An easy fix, but given the bike is now more road-biased, I went for a 28mm Schwalbe One 365, which gives a gear ratio of 70.7 inches, greater clearance and a more responsive ride. 

Changing chain tugs, for some nicely made, long-serving Genetic and opting for a previously cut, but unused KMC S1 proved the cure. It also presented an opportunity to check the rear Halo sprocket's health. Fixed drivetrains are simple but take a lot of stress-especially if you, like me, don’t run a rear brake. Replace chains regularly and get the tension right to prevent reduced efficiency and accelerated drivetrain wear. Talking of drivetrains, I'll end here with Steve's review of Blub Bio Degreaser Blub Bio Degreaser | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

 

Chains & Steerers

 Having replaced the fixed gear winter/trainer’s KMC Z1 ESP and confirmed I’d worn its predecessor out in 2,000 miles, I decided now was the time to invest in a Gusset S Link chain. It's a model intended for heavy duty BMX duties, but they’ve proven very rugged, durable choices for road going fixed gear builds.  

True, there’s a weight penalty but the ½ link design means a very precise length and in the context of conversions, does away with things like chain tensioners. In terms of strength, the S-Link is cited as being 1300Kgf (Kilogram Force) while a standard chain is closer to 850Kgf. This will hopefully extend chain life, since I don’t run a rear brake on my fixed gear builds and though arguably the simplest transmissions going, fixed builds subject chains and sprockets to considerable forces.  

There are coloured options, employing PTFE infused paint but I’ve gone the electroplated route.  While I was there, I also invested in another couple of 10spd KMC chains for Ursula, since prices were favourable and given the filthy conditions, the existing unit was hurtling closer to .7 faster than I’d bargained for. Whether the Silca Secret Formula will slow this remains to be seen.  

Chains are inexpensive staples, worn drivetrains are not. I was also surprised to discover the adhesive had failed on this LED. Thankfully, it was simply a case of adding a little superglue and sealing the light back together (having inspected the internals, like a curious ten-year-old might). 

The Pirelli Angel DT continue to impress. Having run the CST Xpedium CST Xpedium Tyres | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) as a control for 200miles, switching to the Pirelli revealed just how swift they are. Not that the CST are remotely stodgy, rather the Pirelli are noticeably easier to keep on the boil and ride quality is tangibly more compliant than the ultra-dependable Kenda Kwick Journey KS Plus. KENDA KWICK JOURNEY TYRES | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

I was curious as to whether the Pirelli were in fact 32mm. A common trick by some brands in the 80’s was to claim sections were in fact wider, to claim a weight advantage over competitor brands.  

Double checking with a vernier confirmed they were in fact, 32mm-reassuring and makes direct comparisons with models such as Kenda Kwick Journey KS Plus and to a lesser extent, the CST Xpedium and Maxxis Refuse more relevant.  Iconic is a word that’s been used to the point of muted relevance these days and while battling a 40mph headwind, my mind shot back to the late 80’s and Michelin World Tour.  

I’d bought a pair in Norfolk, mid tour back in 1989. They were to replace a set of 27x1/4 Nutrack that were fitted to a Holdsworthy Claud Butler Super Dalesman, which I’d bought used, from a dealer that March. Road biased touring bikes during this period (1980s) tended to have surprisingly close clearances- less problematic with cantilevers but centre pull callipers were still around. Bottom line 700x32 (27x1/4) were pretty much tops with full length mudguards.

The World Tour’s tread pattern was sufficiently raised that it could tickle the mudguards (fenders) at their tightest point. I ultimately sold them on to a friend, replacing them with some semi slick Vredestine . Seems all these years later, that the World Tour are still a current model- limited to 700x35 and 650. Technology has come a long way since and while a lot of older kit (framesets being prime examples) are still very relevant to me, others are not.  

Drawing parallels with video games, I can see the appeal of Atari systems and some of the simplest games were also the most fun/compelling, but I wouldn’t pay nostalgic prices for them. Similarly, there’s a reason why, save for very rare circumstances, why you never return to a former partner-business, or romantic. 

Back to the Pirelli... Their characteristics were particularly welcome while battling some very stormy conditions and 45mph headwinds. Contexts which are invigorating, life-affirming and very revealing when it comes to product capability/limitations. I had donned a softshell jacket on that particular outing, which was the right call on balance.  

DWR coatings vary in their effectiveness, but softshell jackets follow a jacket cum jersey narrative, catering for a broad range of contexts and temperatures. They’ll hold back light to moderate rain without recourse to a waterproof, shell type jacket but in my experience, heavy to persistent rain will begin making itself known given an hour or so without a break in the cloud.  

Curiously, I managed to over stretch myself and strain a calf muscle while negotiating a junction- the pain was excruciating but faded as I gently eased myself along for a couple of minutes, re-engaging my right foot and progressively upping the tempo for the remaining few miles.       

Another idea that germinated over the festive period was having the steerer replaced on the Holdsworth’s original forks. Not period faithful perhaps but I was thinking in terms of having the exceptionally low threaded steerer substituted with a one-inch threadless tube, meaning I could port the Woodman Aheadset and Torus Ti stem straight over. I would mean a change to longer calliper but hardly an inconvenience. Price-wise, I’d be looking at £95, excluding paint but I wanted a more accurate quote preferably from a frame builder I knew well.   

Lee Cooper replied with a few suggestions, the least invasive to fork and livery was to prune and extend the steerer tube. Replacing the entire steerer ran the risk cracking the crown and would, without question ruin the existing livery. He proposed the most cost-effective permanent solution was to extend the steerer. The quote was similarly favourable, so they’ll be up to the midlands at the next, mutually convenient opportunity.