Weighing it Up

 

I'll attribute this to a midwinter lull, but eBay was trying to tempt me into indulging in some surplus stock gravel forks. 4130 throughout, sloping crown, assorted mounts, straight 1/18th steerer and assorted mounts. Clearance for 700x45c... Aside from not NEEDING them, they were raw, so would need painting, which adds to their cost. Being as I would need them powder coated; I'd be closer to £90 by the time everything had been considered.  

 

The fixed gear winter/trainer had a perfectly adequate carbon fork and replacing it (for the admittedly tempting Cro-moly set) would only buy bigger clearance and this wasn't strictly necessary since I'd settled on a more traditional road cum cross typical flavour and 32mm tyres. It would also add some grams. What had I really gained? Sometimes a bargain isn't that when you've weighed everything up- figuratively and literally. 

 

A prudent move too, since the fixed ate another KMC Z1, giving me cause to rethink my policy of running budget chains. Fixed though simple are highly stressed and require closer maintenance than the one cog setup might suggest. The most durable chains I've found to date are the Gusset S-link and KMC X1 stainless. However, both are relatively pricy and in the Gusset's case, hefty. I've decided to go the mid-point route and this Izumi 410.  

 

I'd been out during a particularly wet, grotty morning with various obstacles-looming potholes had my senses screaming with alarm and I was only just able to snatch the front end away at the last second-the gaping chasm would've spat me off, likely into the path of an oncoming vehicle. Composure regained; I cruised the remaining 15 miles at a steady tempo until noting the chain sliding off the rear sprocket and crawling off the front ring. Thankfully, it hadn't jammed but closer inspection revealed it was certainly beyond its prime, signalling imminent replacement. 

 

Waste not, want not...I switched the weary Z1 for one of the YBN that I'd bought for £2, if only to see how durable they were in comparison. Was it a question of having a bargain or getting what I paid for? I wasn't particularly confident, so decided to fit and leave dressed in the factory lube.  

 

Meantime, I've cut the Izumi down to length, so I can just join and adjust when opportunity presents.  I'd be alternating between Ursula and Denise for the coming weeks, depending on whether it was icy, or milder and mucky. Ursula’s KMC began kicking up, which initially had me believing the issue lay with the rear mech’s cable tension, but closer (roadside) inspection revealed splaying of two links, so having completed the ride more gingerly than typical, I switched to a fresh Z10. Presented ideal opportunity to clean out sludgy black stuff from the rear mech, rings and cassette. This was followed by a sudsy bucket deep clean- rid any road salt and similar caustic grot while opportunity presented. 

 

Talking of mucky, Steve was impressed by Portland Design Works Fender Bot PDW Fenderbot Tail Light | cycling-not-racing. As the name suggests, it's a AAA battery powered light affixing to the rear fender (mudguard). Its highly weatherproof, very bright, solidly made and not something an opportunist thief is going to half inch.    

 

Continuing the wintry theme, Robb from Lomo has sent me a pair of their winter gloves. These are a wind and waterproof softshell design with tech friendly rubberised fingers for grip and connectivity with phones and other touch screen devices. There’s a generous Terry thumb wipe, retro-reflective panelling and flat padded palms- no ulnar defending lumps, which can induce precisely the nagging tingling they’re intended to eliminate.    

 

These are a road design and subtle enough for other activities but there’s also a winter mountain bike counterpart. Lomo say these aren’t intended for winter’s most bitter outings. I’ve been out when it’s been close to zero and there was a little nagging chill around the fingertips but this evaporated when the wintry sun brought the mercury to 2 degrees or so.  

 

He's also sent me a pair of Lomo Zephyr panniers that look as if they could give the impressive Oxford Aqua 20 litre a good run for our hard-earned. Reckoned good for everything from soggy commutes to long haul, they’re made from 500denier PVC tarpaulin with RF welded seams and roll top closures. A twin pocket design ensures you can keep things easily segregated. It attaches to racks between 10 and 17mm courtesy of the Rixen Kaul type sprung clips and stabiliser leg. There’s also a webbed strap for easy carrying sans bike.  Right, I’ll close here with my review of the Castelli Espresso Air Jacket Castelli Espresso Air Jacket | cycling-not-racing 

Money For Old Rope?

 

It has been suggested by some that gravel is little more than repackaged 90s cross country mountain biking. As a means of starting debate, it’s a good opening line. I disagree. Any sweeping statement is by definition inaccurate. As with any other genre of riding, gravel will mean different things to different people. 

I removed the Topeak MTX Trunk Dry Bag Topeak MTX Trunk Dry Bag | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and gave the DX rack a clean. Some grittiness had made inroads into the centre channel’s powder coated finish and there was some fastener taint. Both easily remedied with a drop of chain lube and some Motoverde Waterless Wash & Wax Motoverde Waterless Wash & Wax | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). Lastly, I switched the Ergon All Road and Ritchey saddles around. Both have proven good choices for me, but I was keen to see how well the Ergon performed with Denise along rougher roads and trails. 

I would argue gravel is an evolution of cyclo cross, which started with models such as Specialized’s Tri Cross. Cyclo cross bikes with daily driver friendly features such as mudguard and carrier mounts, several bottle bosses and wider gearing. Running in parallel, we had the adventure bike, which were tour friendly cyclo cross bikes with longer wheelbases, bigger clearances and tour-friendly geometry, disc brakes, braze ons and a hint of MTB DNA. 

  

For me, gravel is the lovechild of adventure tourer and thoroughbred cyclo cross bike with some XC mountain bike DNA for good measure. Some more, some less. Some competition models are closer to pared to the essential's cross builds with bigger clearances and hydraulic stoppers. Though very capable, they’re a little too prescriptive for my riding needs/tastes. I’m also very fond of the suspension tech evolution-seat posts and stems, specifically but feel that a fully blown suspension for is, for me, pushing things too close to full blown mountain biking.   

 

In its purist sense, the internet is a fantastic resource (allowing of course, for the mine of mis and disinformation). It allows us to experience and share skills and information at lighting pace and in our own time. Since my early teens., I have always been fascinated by manufacturing processes.  

 

Frame building and enamelling/paint being the most obvious. Yes, these were the starting points- I’d needed a frame built/repaired and/or refinished by a skilled and sympathetic workshop, but it extended to other areas- an interest in building my own touring trailers along the lines of Bob Yak. During these years, aside from some welding and unrelated professional courses, much of my formal learning was academic. 

  

I have always held a desire to learn wet spray refinishing along with powder coating, if only for my own projects and amusements. Having finished listening to You Tube stories while drafting copy, You Tube waved some interesting channels and gravel cycling in particular. Paul Brodie’s  Painting my GRAVEL BIKE // Paul Brodie's Shop (youtube.com) 

 

channel where he discusses his latest gravel build and disc mount, before showing the start to finish wet spray. He’d gone for an orange and spatter effect. I was sat there transfixed as the grey primer tubes came to life in a bold orange. 

  

I’d seen this before obviously, and it’s never lost its magic. As with so many things, a skilled person makes it look effortless. I watched Mario Vaz in his paint shop and marvelled as the paint magically stopped at certain points.  

 

During our conversation, he reflected and said one of the things he really enjoyed about paintwork and stoving enamels in particular, was that every colour is different to work with. Aside from the obvious satisfaction in being able to undertake the work to a high standard, there’s the other long-standing narrative about me not wanting to be reliant on or beholden to anyone else. At least no more than is strictly necessary. 

 

I’d been contemplating the fixed gear winter/trainer’s gearing and chain tension. The Pirelli Angel DT’s flat was another tiny sharp that had grazed the tube, hence the slow pressure loss. An easy fix, but given the bike is now more road-biased, I went for a 28mm Schwalbe One 365, which gives a gear ratio of 70.7 inches, greater clearance and a more responsive ride. 

Changing chain tugs, for some nicely made, long-serving Genetic and opting for a previously cut, but unused KMC S1 proved the cure. It also presented an opportunity to check the rear Halo sprocket's health. Fixed drivetrains are simple but take a lot of stress-especially if you, like me, don’t run a rear brake. Replace chains regularly and get the tension right to prevent reduced efficiency and accelerated drivetrain wear. Talking of drivetrains, I'll end here with Steve's review of Blub Bio Degreaser Blub Bio Degreaser | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)