Bicycle Aikido

 

During the long and sometimes very hot summer of 1987, I acquired a copy of Bicycling Magazine’s Bicycle Repair. The opening chapter discussed Bicycle Aikido, which though a gross oversimplification, basically meant working with, rather than against components. Working things out and using appropriate force. Knowing how to hold the bike and tools correctly, for best effect. If you feel resistance, back off, if it’s coming together nicely, go with the flow.

Obviously, things like torque wrenches are far more prevalent, affordable to most home mechanics, so reduce the likelihood of component damage. That is, if they’re used correctly and with similar mechanical sympathy. I thought I’d long since consigned my copy to charity shops, or similar outlet. I was pleasantly surprised to discover it nestling between some other cycling publications from that decade, including Richard Balantine’s.

Black and white photographs, straightforward instructions/guidance. So straightforward, it led thirteen-year-old me, armed only with a spoke key into a false sense of security. I successfully turned a very minor wibble into a wildly wandering wheel. Fast forward 39 years and I’d been doing a fair bit of dirt road exploration aboard Ursula-one that led to me discovering a rave at 1030 in the morning, not to mention a chance encounter with Spiderman.  By this point, I’d reached my conclusions regarding Topeak’s Handleloc system and fancied quicker passage across metalled roads, so switched to Denise.

On one particularly hot afternoon, I decided it would be prudent to apply some Juice Lubes Slick Juice to the USE seat post and Hollowtech II axle. Two easy little jobs-regular “while I think of it” greasing keeps things mobile and happy. I found one of the pinch bolts unexpectedly arthritic, so gave that a more generous lick of grease and snugged both to 13nm, rather than the maximum 14. Seatpost removed, I took the opportunity to blast some more corrosion inhibitor inside the seat tube. Given temperatures exceeded thirty degrees, this would flow beautifully around the frames’ inner sanctum and cure rapidly.

Though friction is palpably lower than traditional greases when spinning the cranks, I’m not sure whether the Slick Juice is neck and neck with Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing, but I’ll reserve judgement for now. Will be interesting to compare their staying prowess, too. For context, I’ve needed to replenish Peaty’s Speed Grease every six months, rather than the 9-12 typical of stout lithium-based formulas.

Personally, I find partial stripping and re-greasing more convenient than wholesale, annual tear downs. However, I prioritise a stodgy, hell n’ high water blend for headsets and contact points-at least on winter bikes, mountain bikes, tourers and others serving in more challenging conditions.

Following on from my comments about subtle stockpiling of consumables, someone waved a KMC Z1 EPT chain under my nose along with some replacement Shimano pattern cleats-both at very favourable prices, so I snapped them up.  Chances are the Z1 EPT will replace the fixed’s Z5 come November when conditions will be wintrier and the Z5 will be due its pension. Staying with chains a moment, I’m still very impressed that the All Mountain Style Miami Glide Chain Wax’s temperature stability, even when temperatures have been in the mid to high thirties.

No gooeyness, nor does it transfer readily to hands and a consistent 250- 280 miles per application is similarly impressive by wax standards (150-180 miles is more typical) in generally arid conditions and allowing for the odd showery interval. I’m hopeful these qualities will increase drivetrain life, longer term and am planning on defaulting to it until October, unless conditions dictate otherwise.  

Sometimes the best products are the ones we default to, simply because they perform well and let us enjoy the ride. I am privately something of an obsessive, I’m intrigued by how stuff works, performance gains, that sort of thing but they’re the last thing I’d want to discuss during a ride, save for a casual aside, café’ stop break etc.

Other people’s machines, the human element, the stories behind them etc, yes, but I wouldn’t want the duration of a ride, or conversation to be rooted in component choice, or technical specifications.  Much the same goes for motorcycles, photography, and anything else I’m involved with.

Some technical chat is absolutely fine and often very relevant but quickly becomes tedious if it's someone’s only line of curiosity, or conversation. Then again, I’ve never needed to be centre of attention, nor do I talk about myself, although I am consistently told that I am intriguing and maybe I like that air of mystery…I’ll close here with my review of the Topeak Pannier Drybag 16 Litre The Topeak Pannier Dry Bag 16 litre | cycling-not-racing  and Castelli  Ultimate Sun Protection UPF Jersey The Castelli Ultimate Sun Protection UPF | cycling-not-racing

 

 

 

 

Weighing it Up

 

I'll attribute this to a midwinter lull, but eBay was trying to tempt me into indulging in some surplus stock gravel forks. 4130 throughout, sloping crown, assorted mounts, straight 1/18th steerer and assorted mounts. Clearance for 700x45c... Aside from not NEEDING them, they were raw, so would need painting, which adds to their cost. Being as I would need them powder coated; I'd be closer to £90 by the time everything had been considered.  

 

The fixed gear winter/trainer had a perfectly adequate carbon fork and replacing it (for the admittedly tempting Cro-moly set) would only buy bigger clearance and this wasn't strictly necessary since I'd settled on a more traditional road cum cross typical flavour and 32mm tyres. It would also add some grams. What had I really gained? Sometimes a bargain isn't that when you've weighed everything up- figuratively and literally. 

 

A prudent move too, since the fixed ate another KMC Z1, giving me cause to rethink my policy of running budget chains. Fixed though simple are highly stressed and require closer maintenance than the one cog setup might suggest. The most durable chains I've found to date are the Gusset S-link and KMC X1 stainless. However, both are relatively pricy and in the Gusset's case, hefty. I've decided to go the mid-point route and this Izumi 410.  

 

I'd been out during a particularly wet, grotty morning with various obstacles-looming potholes had my senses screaming with alarm and I was only just able to snatch the front end away at the last second-the gaping chasm would've spat me off, likely into the path of an oncoming vehicle. Composure regained; I cruised the remaining 15 miles at a steady tempo until noting the chain sliding off the rear sprocket and crawling off the front ring. Thankfully, it hadn't jammed but closer inspection revealed it was certainly beyond its prime, signalling imminent replacement. 

 

Waste not, want not...I switched the weary Z1 for one of the YBN that I'd bought for £2, if only to see how durable they were in comparison. Was it a question of having a bargain or getting what I paid for? I wasn't particularly confident, so decided to fit and leave dressed in the factory lube.  

 

Meantime, I've cut the Izumi down to length, so I can just join and adjust when opportunity presents.  I'd be alternating between Ursula and Denise for the coming weeks, depending on whether it was icy, or milder and mucky. Ursula’s KMC began kicking up, which initially had me believing the issue lay with the rear mech’s cable tension, but closer (roadside) inspection revealed splaying of two links, so having completed the ride more gingerly than typical, I switched to a fresh Z10. Presented ideal opportunity to clean out sludgy black stuff from the rear mech, rings and cassette. This was followed by a sudsy bucket deep clean- rid any road salt and similar caustic grot while opportunity presented. 

 

Talking of mucky, Steve was impressed by Portland Design Works Fender Bot PDW Fenderbot Tail Light | cycling-not-racing. As the name suggests, it's a AAA battery powered light affixing to the rear fender (mudguard). Its highly weatherproof, very bright, solidly made and not something an opportunist thief is going to half inch.    

 

Continuing the wintry theme, Robb from Lomo has sent me a pair of their winter gloves. These are a wind and waterproof softshell design with tech friendly rubberised fingers for grip and connectivity with phones and other touch screen devices. There’s a generous Terry thumb wipe, retro-reflective panelling and flat padded palms- no ulnar defending lumps, which can induce precisely the nagging tingling they’re intended to eliminate.    

 

These are a road design and subtle enough for other activities but there’s also a winter mountain bike counterpart. Lomo say these aren’t intended for winter’s most bitter outings. I’ve been out when it’s been close to zero and there was a little nagging chill around the fingertips but this evaporated when the wintry sun brought the mercury to 2 degrees or so.  

 

He's also sent me a pair of Lomo Zephyr panniers that look as if they could give the impressive Oxford Aqua 20 litre a good run for our hard-earned. Reckoned good for everything from soggy commutes to long haul, they’re made from 500denier PVC tarpaulin with RF welded seams and roll top closures. A twin pocket design ensures you can keep things easily segregated. It attaches to racks between 10 and 17mm courtesy of the Rixen Kaul type sprung clips and stabiliser leg. There’s also a webbed strap for easy carrying sans bike.  Right, I’ll close here with my review of the Castelli Espresso Air Jacket Castelli Espresso Air Jacket | cycling-not-racing 

Money For Old Rope?

 

It has been suggested by some that gravel is little more than repackaged 90s cross country mountain biking. As a means of starting debate, it’s a good opening line. I disagree. Any sweeping statement is by definition inaccurate. As with any other genre of riding, gravel will mean different things to different people. 

I removed the Topeak MTX Trunk Dry Bag Topeak MTX Trunk Dry Bag | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and gave the DX rack a clean. Some grittiness had made inroads into the centre channel’s powder coated finish and there was some fastener taint. Both easily remedied with a drop of chain lube and some Motoverde Waterless Wash & Wax Motoverde Waterless Wash & Wax | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). Lastly, I switched the Ergon All Road and Ritchey saddles around. Both have proven good choices for me, but I was keen to see how well the Ergon performed with Denise along rougher roads and trails. 

I would argue gravel is an evolution of cyclo cross, which started with models such as Specialized’s Tri Cross. Cyclo cross bikes with daily driver friendly features such as mudguard and carrier mounts, several bottle bosses and wider gearing. Running in parallel, we had the adventure bike, which were tour friendly cyclo cross bikes with longer wheelbases, bigger clearances and tour-friendly geometry, disc brakes, braze ons and a hint of MTB DNA. 

  

For me, gravel is the lovechild of adventure tourer and thoroughbred cyclo cross bike with some XC mountain bike DNA for good measure. Some more, some less. Some competition models are closer to pared to the essential's cross builds with bigger clearances and hydraulic stoppers. Though very capable, they’re a little too prescriptive for my riding needs/tastes. I’m also very fond of the suspension tech evolution-seat posts and stems, specifically but feel that a fully blown suspension for is, for me, pushing things too close to full blown mountain biking.   

 

In its purist sense, the internet is a fantastic resource (allowing of course, for the mine of mis and disinformation). It allows us to experience and share skills and information at lighting pace and in our own time. Since my early teens., I have always been fascinated by manufacturing processes.  

 

Frame building and enamelling/paint being the most obvious. Yes, these were the starting points- I’d needed a frame built/repaired and/or refinished by a skilled and sympathetic workshop, but it extended to other areas- an interest in building my own touring trailers along the lines of Bob Yak. During these years, aside from some welding and unrelated professional courses, much of my formal learning was academic. 

  

I have always held a desire to learn wet spray refinishing along with powder coating, if only for my own projects and amusements. Having finished listening to You Tube stories while drafting copy, You Tube waved some interesting channels and gravel cycling in particular. Paul Brodie’s  Painting my GRAVEL BIKE // Paul Brodie's Shop (youtube.com) 

 

channel where he discusses his latest gravel build and disc mount, before showing the start to finish wet spray. He’d gone for an orange and spatter effect. I was sat there transfixed as the grey primer tubes came to life in a bold orange. 

  

I’d seen this before obviously, and it’s never lost its magic. As with so many things, a skilled person makes it look effortless. I watched Mario Vaz in his paint shop and marvelled as the paint magically stopped at certain points.  

 

During our conversation, he reflected and said one of the things he really enjoyed about paintwork and stoving enamels in particular, was that every colour is different to work with. Aside from the obvious satisfaction in being able to undertake the work to a high standard, there’s the other long-standing narrative about me not wanting to be reliant on or beholden to anyone else. At least no more than is strictly necessary. 

 

I’d been contemplating the fixed gear winter/trainer’s gearing and chain tension. The Pirelli Angel DT’s flat was another tiny sharp that had grazed the tube, hence the slow pressure loss. An easy fix, but given the bike is now more road-biased, I went for a 28mm Schwalbe One 365, which gives a gear ratio of 70.7 inches, greater clearance and a more responsive ride. 

Changing chain tugs, for some nicely made, long-serving Genetic and opting for a previously cut, but unused KMC S1 proved the cure. It also presented an opportunity to check the rear Halo sprocket's health. Fixed drivetrains are simple but take a lot of stress-especially if you, like me, don’t run a rear brake. Replace chains regularly and get the tension right to prevent reduced efficiency and accelerated drivetrain wear. Talking of drivetrains, I'll end here with Steve's review of Blub Bio Degreaser Blub Bio Degreaser | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)