Money For Old Rope?

 

It has been suggested by some that gravel is little more than repackaged 90s cross country mountain biking. As a means of starting debate, it’s a good opening line. I disagree. Any sweeping statement is by definition inaccurate. As with any other genre of riding, gravel will mean different things to different people. 

I removed the Topeak MTX Trunk Dry Bag Topeak MTX Trunk Dry Bag | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and gave the DX rack a clean. Some grittiness had made inroads into the centre channel’s powder coated finish and there was some fastener taint. Both easily remedied with a drop of chain lube and some Motoverde Waterless Wash & Wax Motoverde Waterless Wash & Wax | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). Lastly, I switched the Ergon All Road and Ritchey saddles around. Both have proven good choices for me, but I was keen to see how well the Ergon performed with Denise along rougher roads and trails. 

I would argue gravel is an evolution of cyclo cross, which started with models such as Specialized’s Tri Cross. Cyclo cross bikes with daily driver friendly features such as mudguard and carrier mounts, several bottle bosses and wider gearing. Running in parallel, we had the adventure bike, which were tour friendly cyclo cross bikes with longer wheelbases, bigger clearances and tour-friendly geometry, disc brakes, braze ons and a hint of MTB DNA. 

  

For me, gravel is the lovechild of adventure tourer and thoroughbred cyclo cross bike with some XC mountain bike DNA for good measure. Some more, some less. Some competition models are closer to pared to the essential's cross builds with bigger clearances and hydraulic stoppers. Though very capable, they’re a little too prescriptive for my riding needs/tastes. I’m also very fond of the suspension tech evolution-seat posts and stems, specifically but feel that a fully blown suspension for is, for me, pushing things too close to full blown mountain biking.   

 

In its purist sense, the internet is a fantastic resource (allowing of course, for the mine of mis and disinformation). It allows us to experience and share skills and information at lighting pace and in our own time. Since my early teens., I have always been fascinated by manufacturing processes.  

 

Frame building and enamelling/paint being the most obvious. Yes, these were the starting points- I’d needed a frame built/repaired and/or refinished by a skilled and sympathetic workshop, but it extended to other areas- an interest in building my own touring trailers along the lines of Bob Yak. During these years, aside from some welding and unrelated professional courses, much of my formal learning was academic. 

  

I have always held a desire to learn wet spray refinishing along with powder coating, if only for my own projects and amusements. Having finished listening to You Tube stories while drafting copy, You Tube waved some interesting channels and gravel cycling in particular. Paul Brodie’s  Painting my GRAVEL BIKE // Paul Brodie's Shop (youtube.com) 

 

channel where he discusses his latest gravel build and disc mount, before showing the start to finish wet spray. He’d gone for an orange and spatter effect. I was sat there transfixed as the grey primer tubes came to life in a bold orange. 

  

I’d seen this before obviously, and it’s never lost its magic. As with so many things, a skilled person makes it look effortless. I watched Mario Vaz in his paint shop and marvelled as the paint magically stopped at certain points.  

 

During our conversation, he reflected and said one of the things he really enjoyed about paintwork and stoving enamels in particular, was that every colour is different to work with. Aside from the obvious satisfaction in being able to undertake the work to a high standard, there’s the other long-standing narrative about me not wanting to be reliant on or beholden to anyone else. At least no more than is strictly necessary. 

 

I’d been contemplating the fixed gear winter/trainer’s gearing and chain tension. The Pirelli Angel DT’s flat was another tiny sharp that had grazed the tube, hence the slow pressure loss. An easy fix, but given the bike is now more road-biased, I went for a 28mm Schwalbe One 365, which gives a gear ratio of 70.7 inches, greater clearance and a more responsive ride. 

Changing chain tugs, for some nicely made, long-serving Genetic and opting for a previously cut, but unused KMC S1 proved the cure. It also presented an opportunity to check the rear Halo sprocket's health. Fixed drivetrains are simple but take a lot of stress-especially if you, like me, don’t run a rear brake. Replace chains regularly and get the tension right to prevent reduced efficiency and accelerated drivetrain wear. Talking of drivetrains, I'll end here with Steve's review of Blub Bio Degreaser Blub Bio Degreaser | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

 

Good Housekeeping

 

No, not that one, I am of course referring to keeping drivetrains sludge-free and lightly lubed. I’ve decided since it’s been milder and drier to dress Ursula’s chain in the NZero Wax. OK, so the arrival of this Muc Off Chain Cleaner brush influenced this decision.  

The fixed’s Z1 is still sporting a healthy amount of NZ wet lube- impressive, given the typically wet conditions. I’ll be sticking with it for now and for the Z1’s life. I’ll then switch to the Gusset S-link and possibly something lighter. However, I’m becoming increasingly enamoured to the NZero Wet lube.    

In common with other wet blends in these, the lube has been migrating towards the outer plates. However. I was surprised to find in drier contexts this has fallen away. Much like a traditional wax formula. It is suitably stubborn-I'm past the 200-mile marker despite the onslaught of filthy, flooded roads. Transfer to hands is very easy, and removal equally stubborn, however. Something I was reminded of while adjusting the fixed’s chain tension. For this reason, pack disposable/ mechanics gloves in case you should need to fix a flat, or some other mechanical by the road, or trailside.   

I’m happy to feed the Holdsworth’s KMC chain wax formulas since it’s a summer/sunny days’ build, and in the heat, waxes tend to melt deep into the rollers, then flake off.  

Dry lubes and waxes can also prove useful on bikes in storage, preventing corrosion, without attracting dirt. Teenage Dream and Holdsworth’s chains have remained blemish-free and dressed in a protective glaze. For these reasons, they’re also good choices for bikes serving on indoor trainers. I’ve heard stories of wax lubes being at the root of component demise-chains gnawing through derailleur cages.  

I’ve never seen it myself but that’s not to say it doesn’t happen. However, I’m of the belief this resulted from a cook-up, home-brewed formula. I’m thinking paraffin, Xylene, and similar base components, which have assumed too thick a consistency. Too early to comment on the NZero Wax’s staying prowess but I’m finding some definite appeal in the curing speed and cleanliness.  I’ve also received these Blub wax and ceramic lubes for testing, so there may be a lot of competition and it will theoretically keep me out of mischief for a little bit.   

Then of course, there are drier blends such as the Momum MIC Wax Momum MIC Wax Lube | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). These tend to run cleaner and are closer in nature to dry lubes, albeit more durable, so my preference for a potentially changeable spring and summer, where I want a lube to run clean, but also stay put. This is also quite welcome if you’ve put a summer bike in storage.    

Stout lubes and tyres are not the only considerations when it comes to enjoying winter and early season riding but dependability goes a long way.  

I also found an opportunity to inspect and ultimately re-grease Ursula’s Cirrus Cycles Kinekt2.1 Suspension Seat post KINEKT 2.1 SUSPENSION SEAT POST | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and the seat collar binder bolt. I blasted a little HC-B1 inside the seat tube and treated the chainstay bridge chip to some high-build primer. The rear fender is functional but a likely candidate for upgrade, although contemporary designs are intended for framesets with disc, not cantilever mounts 

The Pirelli Angel DT Urban Tyre Pirelli Angel DT Urban Tyre | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) have proven themselves in some challenging contexts and the puncture-repelling belt has been effective despite mud, thorns and hedge clippings. It’s not a substitute for good maintenance or weekly once-overs, mind.   

Check spare tubes, pumps, patch kits and other spares, or regret it when you’re in the arse end of nowhere. I like Topeak products per se but am particularly fond of the Topeak Uni Super Tourist DX rack and this Topeak  Road Master Blaster Frame Fit Pump Topeak Road Master Blaster Frame Pump | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) .  

Talking of racks, the Topeak MTX Trunk Dry Bag continues to impress with its refinement and weatherproofing. The semi-rigid foam insert has also proved highly effective at damping vibration-I've brought eggs mid-ride and returned with them intact. That said; I wouldn’t be toting cameras and other sensitive electricals in there- that goes for all rack-top models. Lined bar bags are the best hosts for cameras.