Good Housekeeping

 

No, not that one, I am of course referring to keeping drivetrains sludge-free and lightly lubed. I’ve decided since it’s been milder and drier to dress Ursula’s chain in the NZero Wax. OK, so the arrival of this Muc Off Chain Cleaner brush influenced this decision.  

The fixed’s Z1 is still sporting a healthy amount of NZ wet lube- impressive, given the typically wet conditions. I’ll be sticking with it for now and for the Z1’s life. I’ll then switch to the Gusset S-link and possibly something lighter. However, I’m becoming increasingly enamoured to the NZero Wet lube.    

In common with other wet blends in these, the lube has been migrating towards the outer plates. However. I was surprised to find in drier contexts this has fallen away. Much like a traditional wax formula. It is suitably stubborn-I'm past the 200-mile marker despite the onslaught of filthy, flooded roads. Transfer to hands is very easy, and removal equally stubborn, however. Something I was reminded of while adjusting the fixed’s chain tension. For this reason, pack disposable/ mechanics gloves in case you should need to fix a flat, or some other mechanical by the road, or trailside.   

I’m happy to feed the Holdsworth’s KMC chain wax formulas since it’s a summer/sunny days’ build, and in the heat, waxes tend to melt deep into the rollers, then flake off.  

Dry lubes and waxes can also prove useful on bikes in storage, preventing corrosion, without attracting dirt. Teenage Dream and Holdsworth’s chains have remained blemish-free and dressed in a protective glaze. For these reasons, they’re also good choices for bikes serving on indoor trainers. I’ve heard stories of wax lubes being at the root of component demise-chains gnawing through derailleur cages.  

I’ve never seen it myself but that’s not to say it doesn’t happen. However, I’m of the belief this resulted from a cook-up, home-brewed formula. I’m thinking paraffin, Xylene, and similar base components, which have assumed too thick a consistency. Too early to comment on the NZero Wax’s staying prowess but I’m finding some definite appeal in the curing speed and cleanliness.  I’ve also received these Blub wax and ceramic lubes for testing, so there may be a lot of competition and it will theoretically keep me out of mischief for a little bit.   

Then of course, there are drier blends such as the Momum MIC Wax Momum MIC Wax Lube | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). These tend to run cleaner and are closer in nature to dry lubes, albeit more durable, so my preference for a potentially changeable spring and summer, where I want a lube to run clean, but also stay put. This is also quite welcome if you’ve put a summer bike in storage.    

Stout lubes and tyres are not the only considerations when it comes to enjoying winter and early season riding but dependability goes a long way.  

I also found an opportunity to inspect and ultimately re-grease Ursula’s Cirrus Cycles Kinekt2.1 Suspension Seat post KINEKT 2.1 SUSPENSION SEAT POST | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and the seat collar binder bolt. I blasted a little HC-B1 inside the seat tube and treated the chainstay bridge chip to some high-build primer. The rear fender is functional but a likely candidate for upgrade, although contemporary designs are intended for framesets with disc, not cantilever mounts 

The Pirelli Angel DT Urban Tyre Pirelli Angel DT Urban Tyre | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) have proven themselves in some challenging contexts and the puncture-repelling belt has been effective despite mud, thorns and hedge clippings. It’s not a substitute for good maintenance or weekly once-overs, mind.   

Check spare tubes, pumps, patch kits and other spares, or regret it when you’re in the arse end of nowhere. I like Topeak products per se but am particularly fond of the Topeak Uni Super Tourist DX rack and this Topeak  Road Master Blaster Frame Fit Pump Topeak Road Master Blaster Frame Pump | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) .  

Talking of racks, the Topeak MTX Trunk Dry Bag continues to impress with its refinement and weatherproofing. The semi-rigid foam insert has also proved highly effective at damping vibration-I've brought eggs mid-ride and returned with them intact. That said; I wouldn’t be toting cameras and other sensitive electricals in there- that goes for all rack-top models. Lined bar bags are the best hosts for cameras.  

The Joy of Robust Rubber & Other Reflections

To my delight, Madison sent me a set of Maxxis Re fuse TR 700x32c. TR denotes Tubeless Ready, but I’ve gone the tube route since it’s the best fit for me. However, it's nice to know that I can convert, later down the line, if fancy takes me. Talking of fits, they were surprisingly easy to slip aboard the rims- just a little help from the Topeak Shuttle 2.1 News about Seven Day Cyclist levers getting the last quarter home.  

Maximum pressure is a modest 75psi and out of curiosity (rather than reaching for the track pump), I grabbed the Topeak Road Master Blaster frame fit to see how efficiently it could perform roadside rescues. 200 strokes and 3 minutes had it to the maximum- a steady rhythm but minimal effort.  

Reassuring- our large is also the perfect fit for the top tube. The Maxxis Re Fuse have already inspired confidence-speed and rolling resistance are also good-although what I’ve come to expect from 60 tpi casings- a less supple ride than models like the CST CzarCST Czar Tyres | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) but I’m hoping the bead-to-bead puncture repelling belt prove ultra reliable, more so than the otherwise likeable Silk Shield employed in the Maxxis Overdrive Excel.  

I returned from a longer ride on Sunday morning and decided the fixed’s aheadset bearings needed tweaking slightly. This struck toward the end and upon returning home I concluded a spacer revision was needed. I removed a black 10mm and replaced it with 3x5mm blue, which sorted minor, but impactful tension issues.    

Potholes have been breeding faster than corrupt politicians, sending the senses screaming with alarm and testing my bike handling skills. In common with tubes, certain sections of road really need resurfacing, rather than sporadic patching. However, cash-strapped local authorities just can’t afford to entertain this. Not something the public understands but then, to be expected.  

Tendering sounds the way forward when it comes to getting best value but in practice, it’s a race to the bottom and a lot of work and on a wider level, services are inadequate. Want decent quality services and infrastructure then there’s a cost but managed properly, this will repay the investment many times over.  

I digress...Morning rides have still been unexpectedly chill, so I’ve been alternating between these Madison Bib Tights Madison Freewheel Thermal Bib Tights | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and ¾ lengths. When it's milder, these Funkier Ride Flo Men’s ¾ Bib Tights FUNKIER RIDE FLO MEN'S 3/4 BIB TIGHTS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) when it's cooler, these  Triban Men's Road Cycling Bib Tights RC500.  

Great pads, extremely comfortable and generally rugged, given their price points.

¾ lengths have long been my go-tos for general road-biased riding. In the height of summer, bib shorts all the way, depths of winter, thermal tights but ¾ lengths cover all the other bases-nicely.  

Long sleeve jerseys and vest-type base layers, regular caps- the Showers Pass Elite Cycling Cap SHOWERS PASS ELITE CYCLING CAP | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and its Atlas stablemate being my favourites.

Gloves-wise, I’ve alternated between some Specialized full finger liner types and these long-serving Passport Crochet back Cycling Mitts TEST & REVIEW: PASSPORT CROCHET BACK CYCLING MITTS (sevendaycyclist.com). I’ve needed to feed the palms more regularly to keep them supple but again, they’re comfortable, and very rugged-with lots of retro charm. Obviously, being leather they also mould to the wearer’s contours.  

200 miles hence and the FLR F70 are beginning to mould to my feet and relax a little at key points. Not in the sense of becoming saggy, or anything similarly unwelcome, rather it means they’re easier to slip on and I’ve switched to some aftermarket insoles. More because I could, rather than a reflection on the FLR footbeds.  

Will be interesting (read I hope) they’ll relax sufficiently to allow comfortable pairing with waterproof socks... Yes, I know we’re heading toward summer, and it doesn’t rain that frequently (or heavily) in the UK but. Things can get boggy under tyre, especially along the trails, dab a foot down and yes, wet, gooey stuff can make itself known through the cleats first-assuming full immersion doesn’t catch you first.  

That said; the British justify their preoccupation with weather on the defence it is so changeable. I’m not a subscriber to this. I’ve found Belgium and the Netherlands more changeable, especially during spring. Maybe it’s another example of that infamous British Exceptionalism...In my book, there’s no such thing as the wrong weather, just the wrong kit for it.