Moons & Floods

 

The postman brought me some interesting goodies to keep me out of mischief. This Moon Helix Pro W (W denotes white) being one of them. It’s a 5-mode contingency/town light boasting a maximum output of 250 lumens, sensored (stop-go), and intelligent output technology.  

Middle of the Helix family of front lights, there’s a Helix Lite-W, delivering 150 lumens, while the Helix Max pumps out a cited 350lumens and run times between 2.15 and 170 hours, depending on mode (in my experience, factors such as temperature also have an influence). The Pro supposedly delivers 2.15 to 142hours, from the lithium polymer cell. Would be interesting to test the rear counterparts, which look very impressive. Despite the relatively flat profile, the lens casts a broad arc of light  

IPX7 for weatherproofing should mean it survives all but full blown, sustained immersion too- I've not had any issues with the recent biblical rains and flooded roads. Anyhow, just need to keep subjecting it to the real world. It also has a 150-lumen rear counterpart, which looks interesting. The instructions recommend not fitting it close to a wireless computer, which wasn’t a complete surprise, but I wondered whether this referred to the head unit, or the fork sensor.  

For the time being, I’ve positioned ours on the fork leg, which hasn’t induced any weird readouts and I’ll move it to the bars and possibly a head tube in due course. There’s a wealth of clever functions- an auto mode that selects the right output for conditions, theoretically maximising run times, a locking mode so the switch doesn’t get accidentally triggered when bouncing around in the bottom of a bag, pocket etc.  

Auto Safe mode is basically a limp home setting. A reserve of 45 minutes on the lowest mode gives a sporting chance of getting home illuminated but try not to go this route too often- aside from the obvious safety element, it’ll also do nasty things to the battery’s service life.     

Talking of rear lights, the Ravemen TR200’s Ravemen TR200 Rear Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) bracket mysteriously expired, causing the light to tinkle across the tarmac.

It was the latter sound that alerted me and I U-turned. Thankfully, the TR200 was obvious and no-one else around. I tucked it into my middle jersey pocket and spun home. Mercifully I had a replacement mount in the spares box.  

Losing any light is never good but I am particularly taken by the TR200’s balance of power, presence, and relative frugality. 

  

Just before Storm Ciaron struck, the Schwalbe Smart Sam succumbed to a second sharp, funnily enough along the same section of very muddy, slippery backroad. Blowouts are rare, and this followed the slow, sinking hiss narrative. No biggie, I’ll just pull over to the verge, swap tubes, pop on the CO2 cartridge and head off again...   

Tyre OK, in went the spare tube, tyre seated properly. Alas, the CO2 cartridge discharged itself in chaotic fits and starts, while the tyre remained firmly flaccid. This is why you always carry a reliable pump.  

Off came the Topeak Gravel 2 Stage Mini Pump Topeak Gravel 2 Stage Mini Pump | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and ten minutes later, we were headed home, the wind swirling and ruffling the otherwise snug Oxford Venture Jacket OXFORD VENTURE JACKET | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) which is still a favourite of mine, thanks to the fit, retro-reflective detailing, removable hood, and deep breast pocket-perfect for stowing my long zoom compact camera within easy reach.  

Mercifully, the flooded sections haven’t been deep enough to engulf hubs but a good test of chain lube, waterproof socks, and footwear. Though not waterproof, Steve’s been impressed by these Fizik Winter Cycling Socks Fizik Winter Cycling Socks | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

Not hard to see why I’ve stuck to Ursula. Sealed bearings are designed to resist the pressures of puddles and garden hoses but it’s good practice to give bikes a mile or so a mile or so to purge any residual moisture. 

Conditions have been sufficiently wet n’ wild to tax the Zefal Extra Wet Nano Tech Ceramic Chain Lube ZEFAL EXTRA WET NANO CERAMIC CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) A blend that has otherwise fended off the typical British winter for up to 495miles. I may need to find the Weldtite Extreme Wet WELDTITE TF2 EXTREME WET CHAIN LUBRICANT (sevendaycyclist.com)  should the waterlogged theme continue much longer.  We must also spare a thought for those who have experienced considerable loss and damage. I'll close here with Steve's review of These Chiba gloves Chiba Bioxcell Winter Warm-Line Gloves | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

 

Mount Musing

 Something drew me to reflect upon the TRP HYRD calliper, which was languishing in the brake box. Perhaps this was prompted by my MK1 Ford Ka’s intermittently flickering brake warning light, maybe it was my elevated blood pressure being approached by people wanting me to work for free...I’ve concluded it’s my dislike of unfinished projects and on a wider level, loose ends generally. 

I don’t know everything and never will. Those who do not ask questions, do not learn...Custom, CNC machined brackets suddenly became the only idea until someone helpfully suggested a flat to IS mount adaptor.  

Fingers to keyboard, I dodged anything from the virtual flea markets since these are a lottery at the best of times. Even if they materialise accuracy of machining is often incredibly poor, so money may as well be tossed down the drain. This cheap but cheery A2Z cost a few pennies more but turned up within a few days. Alas, it also proved incompatible. Back to the drawing board. 

Another source of this inspiration was my contemplation of taking Ursula the rear disc route, too. Frame builders generally advise against this, or at least show reticence to braze mounts to steel framesets of this era. I’m certainly not going to risk a frame’s integrity or persuade a skilled frame builder to do something they are not comfortable executing. Add to that, the cost of otherwise unnecessary refinishing and the juice isn’t worth the squeeze.   

There’s a trend for converting older mountain bikes to gravel builds, complete with disc mounts and 700c tyres. Some of them are nicely, dare I say, sympathetically executed, akin to other subtle conversions. Winter trainers, or cyclocross rigs to lightweight touring/audax, older cross-country mountain bikes to drop bar tourers, or four seasons’ workhorses being good examples.  

Others, involving cutting brake bridges out to entertain bigger section 700c tyres are, in my view, extreme butchery. Rather akin to chopping houses into flats, where bodged electrics, plumbing and cheap materials seem par for the course. In case you were curious, a more traditional cyclo cross typical 32mm seems viable with 26inch mountain bike framesets.   

Back to disc brake conversion adaptors, most off-the-peg adaptors seem crude, horrible affairs.  

The only exception I’ve seen is the Brake Therapy Disc Brake Conversion Kit. However, this is no longer in production. If I found or was offered one at the right price, maybe. Otherwise, cantilevers stay. 

I replaced the straddle wire that had begun fraying while doing some other routine maintenance... This time, I’d gone for a premium quality Dia Tech wire, which, in my experience, are less prone to fraying-although super glue, crimp, or solder the ends. Powerful, progressive braking restored. Not that I engage the rear brake very often, but I like things at their best, not just operational.   

Staying with Dia Tech, I’d noted a slight tendency for Ursula’s Aheadset bearings to slacken very slightly after a few hundred miles. I concluded the best way to sort this was to reintroduce a Dia Tech cable hanger cum locking spacer.  

This works to add some additional tension, just requires a more precise adjustment, when setting the preload. I also cleaned the fork steerer and added a quick lick of grease to the upper bearing, since the opportunity presented itself.   To date, this seems to have addressed the issue. Little things, eh. 

Cooler weather gave cause for a rummage in the wardrobe, resulting in a few exclamations of “Wonder where that went!”. Most noteworthy being this DHB   Aeron Rain Defence Polartec Jacket. It’s a water-resistant softshell design reckoned ideal for temperatures between 8 and 15 degrees, but I’ve been pleasantly surprised by how comfortable it’s been in temperatures between 1 and 3 degrees. Admittedly, I’ve worn this Oxford Venture Windproof Gilet atop OXFORD VENTURE WINDPROOF GILET | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) A good combination, paired with a decent quality long sleeve base layer. 

  

The sudden dip in temperature has also presented opportunity to get some miles in with the Carnac Reflective Waterproof Crab Hand Winter Gloves. Perfectly temperate between 0 and 5 degrees (I’ve worn them up to 10 degrees, but by that point, my hands were feeling a little clammy. They’re also more dexterous than I was expecting. Keys, torches and similar essentials have been easily retrieved and operated. This isn’t my experience with the more extreme “lobster mitt” types. I like these in terms of warmth, but the lack of dexterity, for me is a big turn off.  Right, time I was rounding up the buckets, brushes and bike washes ...Oh and here's my review of the Muc Off All Weather Chain Lube Muc-Off All Weather Chain Lube | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)