Chopping n’ Changing

 

A brief spell of thaw saw a switch to my fixed gear winter/trainer for some more spirited saunters around the S bends, while saving sensitive derailleur chains from the ravages of gloop, slime, not forgetting the salt monster. After 250miles, it was a filthy fixed, and the Wolf Tooth lube had been licked clean. By this point it received a richly deserved sudsy bucket clean, and the chains gungy side plates were a perfect opportunity to test the Silca Gear wipes.  

These have two sides. A softer one that’s safe on paintwork and similarly delicate surfaces and a grittier, more aggressive texture for cutting through gunk and grime. I was pleasantly surprised by how effectively it stripped the scuzzy chain bare. Obviously, wipes aren’t the most economical way of cleaning drivetrains (or anything else, for that matter) but used sensibly, they can be highly effective and save time- not every change of lube demands the bike(s) get deep cleaned. 

Ordinarily, I’d purge the chain with a degreaser fluid (or bike wash concentrate) before giving the bike a good sudsy bucket wash, typically using a wash n’ wax formula that leaves a protective barrier behind. Foaming blends look more effective, visually, but those which cling to the host surfaces are most effective, breaking the grime down. I’m defaulting to the Peaty’s Link Lube Premium All WeatherPEATY'S LINK LUBE PREMIUM ALL WEATHER | cycling-not-racing across the fleet since its relatively clean and stays put. The temperature tumbled again and momentary temptation to hop on the fixed was immediately tempered by ice.  

Within a few minutes, I was so relieved I’d opted for Ursula. Along the lanes, I spotted a junior road bike- pre/early teen machine, which someone had cut their teeth on and grown out of. It catapulted me back to the spring of 1986 when I picked up my first road bike- a second-hand low rent machine with gas pipe tubing, brush painted in Hammerite by my father.  

Aside from contemporary components and oversized aluminium alloy tubes, the frameset had been repainted in single pack acrylic (rattle can). A relatively tidy job, suggesting some experienced adult guidance. There’s a lot of fun and learning in building a bike from leftover parts. Wonder what they’ve upgraded to...The weather continued to flip flop, and I hopped back aboard the fixed, only to be serenaded by the resplendent and familiar hiss, amplified by flooded roads.  

The WTB ExposureWTB Exposure Road Tubeless Tyre | cycling-not-racing is a supple, quick rolling and engaging tyre but I’ve found it very susceptible to thorns, flints and hedge clippings. A tiny pin prick was easily repaired but I switched to a fresh tube and the 32mm Pirelli Angel DT Urban Pirelli Angel DT Urban Tyre | cycling-not-racing up front.  They’re quicker than their weight and commuter tag might suggest, though the 5mm thick puncture repelling belt has proven very dependable, despite only covering the centre-strip. Reliability is something I prize during the darker months. Aside from the obvious muck, slime and darkness, roads get rougher as the standing water and freezing temperatures cause erosion, holes and similar, which can be rough on rubber.  

I’d also switched the excellent and seemingly bomb-proof Oxford Aqua V20 Single Pannier Oxford Aqua V20 Single Pannier | cycling-not-racing for my 12-year-old Carradice Super C Rack Bag. A classic, seemingly bombproof design which has 13 litres of carrying capacity-ideal for day riding, especially since I’ve got the Oxford Aqua Bar Bag up front.  

Staying with Oxford, they’ve sent me this rather nice Torque R10 mini ratchet. A slight deviation from traditional multi-tools. The wrench is made from 6140 steel, T25 Torx, 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 8mm bits are made from S2 steel. It also features Chrome Vanadium Steel adapters (1 ¼ sockets and bit) and two nylon tyre levers. The 1 ¼ sockets mean there’s plenty of choice, so you can build a custom toolkit for different bikes/to suit.  S2 steels are shock resistant and apparently, particularly suitable for socket type tools. Primarily a carbon steel alloy, it also features elements of chromium, molybdenum and vanadium.  

It's also used in the Feedback Sports Reflex Torque Bit Driver, which I've become increasingly attached to, these past few weeks. Elsewhere, though the days are getting very slightly longer, lights are still high on the agenda.  

I’ve been sent this Magicshine Allty 400 front Bike Light. Lower output than I’d usually gravitate to. However, thanks to improvements in diodes, lenses and optical quality generally, lumens alone are not the only deciders. My feeling is it will serve me best as a dynamo companion, but real-world miles may say different.  

 

Torqued & Lubed

 

I’d reached conclusions on some tooling and lubes, specifically the Feedback Sports Torque wrench and NZero dry wax lube Nzero Dry Wax Lubricant | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). I’ve been really impressed with the standard of engineering and user-friendliness of the torque wrench. Torque function aside, size and ratchet function mean it’s also delightful to wield in awkward, or confined spaces- bottle cages being prime example.  

 

The ability to use it as a T-wrench for added leverage on stubborn fasteners is another definite plus. Cost aside, the only detraction is the preset 5nm setting. Fine for a lot of components. However, equally too low and a little high for other components, including seat collars, stem bolts, bottle, and mudguard/carrier fasteners. 

  

I should also point out that traditional torque wrenches should not be used to undo parts. Doing so will damage the mechanism. The NZero wax, though less tenacious than some is still relatively durable and cures much quicker than a lot of wax-type formulas. The Momum MIC Wax Momum MIC Wax Lube | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) cures a little faster and has, during the summer months returned over 400 miles from a single application. 

  

However, it’s a semi synthetic blend, while the NZero uses natural ingredients. Unlike some waxes, the NZero doesn’t melt messily in high-temperatures and transfer to hands is minimal. A definite plus, should you succumb to a flat, or commute in smart trousers.  

 

Staying with punctures a moment, I’ve also become very endeared to the AS2 Pro Max- basically a refined, pocket-sized compressor that will raise around 4 tyres from a full charge. I’d still be inclined to carry a mini pump and possibly a Co2 setup on a long, or multi-day ride but for general, day-to-day training I’ve found it infinitely preferable to the alternatives. The important thing is to charge it regularly. 

  

Assuming it’s just been sat in your chosen bike luggage, pop it out and charge weekly, otherwise, at the earliest opportunity. Bargain on an hour or so, from the mains. It's possible to charge it from the USB charger on some dynamos, including the mighty and much revered K-Lite K LITE BIKEPACKER ULTRA DYNAMO LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) systems, which might be fine on tour, but again, I’d be carrying a mini, or possibly frame-fit pump as backup.  

 

In common with the Fumpa FUMPA PUMP | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) it’ll manage higher pressures 120psi a time, which caters for most contexts. However, it is decidedly loud, so stick with the track pump at home, at least during unsocial hours.  

 

200 charge cycles before the lithium-ion battery will experience a 10% loss in capacity, which suggests a decent working life and besides, provided you ensure I-ion batteries don’t fall below 70% charge wherever possible, you will considerably extend their lifespan. Talking of pumps, here’s Steve’s review of the Silca Impero Ultimate 2.0 Frame Pump Silca Impero Ultimate 2.0 Frame Pump | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

 

I was surprised to experience some tingling in my right hand wearing the Grip Grab mitts- it's an isolated experience thankfully and has me wondering what induced it. I hadn’t changed any contact points.  

 

Lights are useful year-round. I ensure there’s at least set of blinkies fitted to the Holdsworth and Teenage Dream, should conditions unexpectedly change, or I lose track of time, while making the most of late summer evenings. Fixed, Denise and Ursula all sport dynamos –high power lighting and on tap. Magicshine has graciously sent me some of their new range, which caught my attention. Some I cannot discuss now.   

 

I’ve received their evo 1700 underneath mounted bike light, which as the name implies sits beneath the bars, giving a clean aesthetic, while crucially combining a highly effective mix of flood and spot beams. The former ensures a good peripheral sweep of light, the spot picks out the details, lens technology projecting both intelligently, to minimise risk of dazzling or similar nuisance to other road users.   

 

The integral battery is another appealing feature. In common with most modern high-power lights, there’s a wide spectrum of output from 200 to 1700 lumens, in theory catering for most contexts., although formative impressions suggest the beam pattern is road centric.  

 

Again, run times at the higher end are relatively short, so this genre is ideally suited to those who train or commute in varying conditions and enjoy the odd blast along the backroads at warp speed. There’s a remote control for added convenience and though relatively standard these days, you can tune to taste using the brands’ app.  

 

In common with other vehicles, there’s a high and low beam, designed so you don’t dazzle oncoming road users. Thankfully, this can be controlled with a deft prod of the remote, although as with any system, worth doing a few practice runs, so this action becomes intuitive before heading out.