Revise, Run & Reflect

 

This is a principle I generally apply in broad strokes terms, not simply to bicycles, but is particularly relevant in this context. For some years now, I’ve tended to work potential changes out on paper first, evaluating the pros and cons before committing myself. Product testing is a different kettle of fish. Manufacturers and distributors sometimes send stuff on spec and I’ very receptive to “lucky dips”. I’m referring to matters such as braking, steering and gearing. In the latter context.

I’m staying with a 2x setup.

A third ring will barely get used, so will just add weight and complexity. 32x22 rings coupled with a 12-28, or 12-30 cassette provides sufficient range for most of my riding contexts. Sure, a 48 ring would offer some bombing prowess but spin-out isn’t something I’m struggling with. Even with the trailer and decent cargo en tow, there’s sufficient torque for 17mph cruising and faster descending without loosing out on the climb. A well-honed cantilever, or cable operated disc setup has sufficient bite for 20 odd kilos and 1in 7 descents-provided you’re not in Kamikaze mode.

On several occasions, I’ve toyed with ideas of upgrading to a more expensive cable-operated disc configuration. However, aside from some quirks, especially when it comes to setup, the Spyre and SLC are still very simple to work on and provide enough bite. Hydraulics have been another recurrent temptation. More bite, lower maintenance but set up and servicing are not as straightforward as some suggest.

A well-equipped local bike shop is worth their weight in gold and, all things being equal. would be only too happy to setup and maintain. However, even the best maintained components and bikes can malfunction, often at the least convenient moment. All I need carry on a cable-operated setup are a suitable multitool, spare inner wires and some pads. The latter I’d save for a big ride, or tour but you get the idea.

Talking of touring, I’ve been getting some more serious miles done with the M Part Ridge Rear Pannier Rack and continue to be impressed with its generic compatibility. By that I mean its plug and play compatibility with most mounting hardware, including Rixen Kaul, this Lomo Zeyphr Lomo Zephyr Waterproof Panniers | cycling-not-racing. Topeak’s Handleloc system found on their Pannier Drybag 16litre The Topeak Pannier Dry Bag 16 litre | cycling-not-racing required some shims (binding some old butyl around the rack tubing has similar results). Either way, reliable union is readily achievable.

 While I’ve had no heel clearance or similar issues with 20 litre models, I am forming the opinion the rack’s angular profile is optimal longer, narrower designs, such as the Topeak and Oxford Aqua V20 Single Pannier Oxford Aqua V20 Single Pannier | cycling-not-racing The top section is slightly broader than its Summit cousin, which came as a pleasant surprise and makes it a better host for rack top bags.   

I am a proponent of powder coated finishes-at least well applied, good quality powders. The satin black looks classy and more importantly, is holding up well against the usual fitting and removing. While I wouldn’t get unduly concerned about the everyday wear and tear, beyond a certain point, I’d be inclined to have it refinished along with some other parts (to keep things cost effective). Prevention is always better than cure. Dressing the rails in old butyl tube, or electrical tape largely renders this a moot point.

Talking of dressing, the temperatures are slowly tempering and dropping to more seasonally typical figures. Layering is the most obvious, time-honoured solution but some manufacturers, including Castelli offer apparel designed to bridge the gap between summer and early autumn.

Contexts where it is typically temperate, but it can turn cool, or damp during the course of a ride. A packable jacket helps protect against wind chill, showers and more persistent rainfall; arm warmers keep short sleeve jerseys practical when temperatures fluctuate. ¾ lengths divide opinion, but my when the temperatures are dropping and they’ll dry quicker than tights when the heavens open. Much will depend on how long you’re out riding but a cap and liner gloves and a buff can come in similarly useful.

Rains have brought the temperature down and meant bikes get grimier. Perfect for evaluating the Juice Lubes Slick Juice Grease’s staying prowess and of course, the brand’s bike wash and concentrate formulas.

Chains are still dressed in the All-Mountain-Style Miami Glide Chain Wax The All Mountain Style Miami Glide | cycling-not-racing and I see no reason to switch until October. By that point, I suspect I’ll be pensioning off Muffin’s KMC Z510 HX in favour of a Z1 Inox SEVEN DAY CYCLIST'S 3000 MILE TEST OF A KMC INOX CHAIN  and test lubes aside, likely defaulting to Weldtite All Weather Lube Weldtite All Weather Lube | cycling-not-racing . The All-Weather Lube is less tenacious than stodgy wet formulas, but cleaner, requires no curing time and is easily topped up.     

 

Chopping n’ Changing

 

A brief spell of thaw saw a switch to my fixed gear winter/trainer for some more spirited saunters around the S bends, while saving sensitive derailleur chains from the ravages of gloop, slime, not forgetting the salt monster. After 250miles, it was a filthy fixed, and the Wolf Tooth lube had been licked clean. By this point it received a richly deserved sudsy bucket clean, and the chains gungy side plates were a perfect opportunity to test the Silca Gear wipes.  

These have two sides. A softer one that’s safe on paintwork and similarly delicate surfaces and a grittier, more aggressive texture for cutting through gunk and grime. I was pleasantly surprised by how effectively it stripped the scuzzy chain bare. Obviously, wipes aren’t the most economical way of cleaning drivetrains (or anything else, for that matter) but used sensibly, they can be highly effective and save time- not every change of lube demands the bike(s) get deep cleaned. 

Ordinarily, I’d purge the chain with a degreaser fluid (or bike wash concentrate) before giving the bike a good sudsy bucket wash, typically using a wash n’ wax formula that leaves a protective barrier behind. Foaming blends look more effective, visually, but those which cling to the host surfaces are most effective, breaking the grime down. I’m defaulting to the Peaty’s Link Lube Premium All WeatherPEATY'S LINK LUBE PREMIUM ALL WEATHER | cycling-not-racing across the fleet since its relatively clean and stays put. The temperature tumbled again and momentary temptation to hop on the fixed was immediately tempered by ice.  

Within a few minutes, I was so relieved I’d opted for Ursula. Along the lanes, I spotted a junior road bike- pre/early teen machine, which someone had cut their teeth on and grown out of. It catapulted me back to the spring of 1986 when I picked up my first road bike- a second-hand low rent machine with gas pipe tubing, brush painted in Hammerite by my father.  

Aside from contemporary components and oversized aluminium alloy tubes, the frameset had been repainted in single pack acrylic (rattle can). A relatively tidy job, suggesting some experienced adult guidance. There’s a lot of fun and learning in building a bike from leftover parts. Wonder what they’ve upgraded to...The weather continued to flip flop, and I hopped back aboard the fixed, only to be serenaded by the resplendent and familiar hiss, amplified by flooded roads.  

The WTB ExposureWTB Exposure Road Tubeless Tyre | cycling-not-racing is a supple, quick rolling and engaging tyre but I’ve found it very susceptible to thorns, flints and hedge clippings. A tiny pin prick was easily repaired but I switched to a fresh tube and the 32mm Pirelli Angel DT Urban Pirelli Angel DT Urban Tyre | cycling-not-racing up front.  They’re quicker than their weight and commuter tag might suggest, though the 5mm thick puncture repelling belt has proven very dependable, despite only covering the centre-strip. Reliability is something I prize during the darker months. Aside from the obvious muck, slime and darkness, roads get rougher as the standing water and freezing temperatures cause erosion, holes and similar, which can be rough on rubber.  

I’d also switched the excellent and seemingly bomb-proof Oxford Aqua V20 Single Pannier Oxford Aqua V20 Single Pannier | cycling-not-racing for my 12-year-old Carradice Super C Rack Bag. A classic, seemingly bombproof design which has 13 litres of carrying capacity-ideal for day riding, especially since I’ve got the Oxford Aqua Bar Bag up front.  

Staying with Oxford, they’ve sent me this rather nice Torque R10 mini ratchet. A slight deviation from traditional multi-tools. The wrench is made from 6140 steel, T25 Torx, 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 8mm bits are made from S2 steel. It also features Chrome Vanadium Steel adapters (1 ¼ sockets and bit) and two nylon tyre levers. The 1 ¼ sockets mean there’s plenty of choice, so you can build a custom toolkit for different bikes/to suit.  S2 steels are shock resistant and apparently, particularly suitable for socket type tools. Primarily a carbon steel alloy, it also features elements of chromium, molybdenum and vanadium.  

It's also used in the Feedback Sports Reflex Torque Bit Driver, which I've become increasingly attached to, these past few weeks. Elsewhere, though the days are getting very slightly longer, lights are still high on the agenda.  

I’ve been sent this Magicshine Allty 400 front Bike Light. Lower output than I’d usually gravitate to. However, thanks to improvements in diodes, lenses and optical quality generally, lumens alone are not the only deciders. My feeling is it will serve me best as a dynamo companion, but real-world miles may say different.