Midwinter’s Chilly Charm

 

January crept in as it does and while others huddled beneath their duvets I headed out along the lanes, reflecting on the products I'd been testing and forming my conclusions about others. Temperatures had plummeted and with it came the blizzard of apocalyptic weather warnings.  

The tabloid press gets extremely excited about these things, steering people away from the significant issues affecting them, and the world on a wider level. The UK's press seems largely unfit for purpose, more concerned with giving platform to popularists with critical, investigative journalism a thing of a distant past.  

 

Back in the saddle, I'd been caught out by the unexpectedly icy spell, so hadn't yet switched Ursula back to the spikes. It was forecast but the sensationalism led me to overlook this. Took things carefully and the Continental Cross Kings provided sufficient feedback to avoid going rubber up, but I cursed myself for not being better prepared. All part of riding, I guess.  

 

Besides, I'd just have to get on with it, were the weather to turn mid tour I convinced myself. That was until I noted rainfall AND plunging temperatures for the week ahead, which would turn lanes and backroads to skating rinks. Visions of bent mechs, broken collarbones and back went the Schwalbe Ice Spiker ProSchwalbe Ice Spiker Pro Tyres | cycling-not-racing.  

 

Given the conditions, I’m sticking to Ursula on account of the riding position, big bars and 2-inch plus rubber’s contact patch. I’d toyed with switching Denise to the Schwalbe Marathon winter but can’t see the sub-zero wintry conditions lasting, so one bike shod with spikes is the way forward for now.   

 

Back went the Belgian cap, deep winter gloves and softshell jacket- yes, its pink and not my first choice but then, I'm very secure in my masculinity, it keeps me very temperate, so frankly, don't care. There have been some very chill spells, but the mercury hasn't slid below zero very often, so I've not had much cause to don the softshell and thermals.  Dress the bike and rider properly and the weather becomes less relevant. That said; always ride within sensible limits and give conditions the respect they deserve. Hypothermia, or at the other extreme, sunstroke are not to be taken lightly.  

 

A mechanic once told of a 'cross meet so bitter, they had to spray anti- freeze on rider's chains to keep them from seizing up. Though a moot point with sealed cables, I found standard gear inner wires turning unexpectedly arthritic in the cold, resulting in temperamental shifting (although easily remedied with a quick post ride shot of GT85GT85 ALL PURPOSE LUBRICANT /similar) 

 

I've resisted temptation to switch to winter weight wet lubes so far, primarily on the grounds they're durable but tend to attract dirt, which in turn becomes a cannibalistic grinding paste, limiting their charm.  I've drained every last drip from the bottle of WTB all conditions (which I really like, due to the self-cleansing properties) so will probably go for the next closest thing on my shelf- Peaty's Link Lube Premium All Weather PEATY'S LINK LUBE PREMIUM ALL WEATHER | cycling-not-racing.  

 

This is still stoical, similarly clean, and isn't hampered by a long curing time. It has similar characteristics to the WTB in that it purges grime and ingress as you ride, which given the conditions, is very welcome and theoretically cuts out the side plate cat-lick ritual.  

 

Given the price of chains and drivetrain components generally, I’m moving away from traditional wet lubes on 10 and 11 speed derailleur configurations given I’ll get between 1100 and 1300 miles (about 2092.15 km) from a bog standard10 speed chain. Old school 6,7 or 8 speed are less delicate in this respect, so I’d have less qualms about dressing these with a traditional hell n’ high water wet lube, such as Finish Line Cross Country. Petrochemical blends aren’t the only rugged choice either.  

 

One of the best blends we’ve come across is NZero NZero Lubricante Organic Wet Lube | cycling-not-racing and I’m also very fond of Green Oil Wet GREEN OIL WET CHAIN LUBE. Their Eco GreaseGREEN OIL ECO GREASE and Eco Spray Lube TESTED: GREEN OIL ECO SPRAY LUBE are similarly impressive benchmarks, although under no circumstances grease chains. Their Eco Spray Lube is just thick enough to serve as an internal preserve for steel framesets and summer weight chain lube, too.     

 

Talking saddles, I’ve become increasingly fond of the WTB Rocket, having racked up plenty of miles on and off road. Specification on paper might not set pulses racing or win bragging rights down the club house. We’re talking painted cro-moly rails, microtex cover, memory foam padding and a pressure relieving channel. However, standards of finish and construction are reassuringly high.  

 

Talking of which, I concluded that I needed to raise Ursula’s saddle height by a few millimetres. This can be all it takes between having something bang on and close-to. As with all thins, opinions vary but rule of thumb says the knee should be almost but not fully extended when the cranks at its lowest point. An easy post ride “while I remember” amendment that made all the difference. Right, ending on the foul weather note, I’ve been seriously impressed by how well this Oxford Aqua V20 Single Pannier has performed across the board. 

Oxford Aqua V20 Single Pannier | cycling-not-racing 

Torqued & Lubed

 

I’d reached conclusions on some tooling and lubes, specifically the Feedback Sports Torque wrench and NZero dry wax lube Nzero Dry Wax Lubricant | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). I’ve been really impressed with the standard of engineering and user-friendliness of the torque wrench. Torque function aside, size and ratchet function mean it’s also delightful to wield in awkward, or confined spaces- bottle cages being prime example.  

 

The ability to use it as a T-wrench for added leverage on stubborn fasteners is another definite plus. Cost aside, the only detraction is the preset 5nm setting. Fine for a lot of components. However, equally too low and a little high for other components, including seat collars, stem bolts, bottle, and mudguard/carrier fasteners. 

  

I should also point out that traditional torque wrenches should not be used to undo parts. Doing so will damage the mechanism. The NZero wax, though less tenacious than some is still relatively durable and cures much quicker than a lot of wax-type formulas. The Momum MIC Wax Momum MIC Wax Lube | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) cures a little faster and has, during the summer months returned over 400 miles from a single application. 

  

However, it’s a semi synthetic blend, while the NZero uses natural ingredients. Unlike some waxes, the NZero doesn’t melt messily in high-temperatures and transfer to hands is minimal. A definite plus, should you succumb to a flat, or commute in smart trousers.  

 

Staying with punctures a moment, I’ve also become very endeared to the AS2 Pro Max- basically a refined, pocket-sized compressor that will raise around 4 tyres from a full charge. I’d still be inclined to carry a mini pump and possibly a Co2 setup on a long, or multi-day ride but for general, day-to-day training I’ve found it infinitely preferable to the alternatives. The important thing is to charge it regularly. 

  

Assuming it’s just been sat in your chosen bike luggage, pop it out and charge weekly, otherwise, at the earliest opportunity. Bargain on an hour or so, from the mains. It's possible to charge it from the USB charger on some dynamos, including the mighty and much revered K-Lite K LITE BIKEPACKER ULTRA DYNAMO LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) systems, which might be fine on tour, but again, I’d be carrying a mini, or possibly frame-fit pump as backup.  

 

In common with the Fumpa FUMPA PUMP | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) it’ll manage higher pressures 120psi a time, which caters for most contexts. However, it is decidedly loud, so stick with the track pump at home, at least during unsocial hours.  

 

200 charge cycles before the lithium-ion battery will experience a 10% loss in capacity, which suggests a decent working life and besides, provided you ensure I-ion batteries don’t fall below 70% charge wherever possible, you will considerably extend their lifespan. Talking of pumps, here’s Steve’s review of the Silca Impero Ultimate 2.0 Frame Pump Silca Impero Ultimate 2.0 Frame Pump | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

 

I was surprised to experience some tingling in my right hand wearing the Grip Grab mitts- it's an isolated experience thankfully and has me wondering what induced it. I hadn’t changed any contact points.  

 

Lights are useful year-round. I ensure there’s at least set of blinkies fitted to the Holdsworth and Teenage Dream, should conditions unexpectedly change, or I lose track of time, while making the most of late summer evenings. Fixed, Denise and Ursula all sport dynamos –high power lighting and on tap. Magicshine has graciously sent me some of their new range, which caught my attention. Some I cannot discuss now.   

 

I’ve received their evo 1700 underneath mounted bike light, which as the name implies sits beneath the bars, giving a clean aesthetic, while crucially combining a highly effective mix of flood and spot beams. The former ensures a good peripheral sweep of light, the spot picks out the details, lens technology projecting both intelligently, to minimise risk of dazzling or similar nuisance to other road users.   

 

The integral battery is another appealing feature. In common with most modern high-power lights, there’s a wide spectrum of output from 200 to 1700 lumens, in theory catering for most contexts., although formative impressions suggest the beam pattern is road centric.  

 

Again, run times at the higher end are relatively short, so this genre is ideally suited to those who train or commute in varying conditions and enjoy the odd blast along the backroads at warp speed. There’s a remote control for added convenience and though relatively standard these days, you can tune to taste using the brands’ app.  

 

In common with other vehicles, there’s a high and low beam, designed so you don’t dazzle oncoming road users. Thankfully, this can be controlled with a deft prod of the remote, although as with any system, worth doing a few practice runs, so this action becomes intuitive before heading out.