Letting Off Steam

Chain length sorted, I’m back to enjoying Ursula’s, drop bar charms along the dirt roads and trails. Changing the rear shifter’s inner wire was another inspired decision, improving shifting performance for literal pennies. I’ve been running the Schwalbe Smart Sam up front and the Maxxis Ikon Maxxis Ikon Tyres | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) behind to compare the two in various contexts. While both tyres seem very competent off-road, the Schwalbe have an edge when cornering on wet asphalt and appear to roll a little quicker on hardpack too.  

On this basis I’ve decided to switch the Ikon back to the Sputnik/XT wheel and pop the Smart Sam on the Ryde/Halo Spin Doctor. Famous last words, the existing KMC chain is faring well. Plan is to run it for another 800miles (c. November) and then, assuming it's worn significantly, switch to one of the pe-cut 106 link replacements. For the meantime, lube-wise I’m staying with the Momum MIC Wax Momum MIC Wax Lube | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) since its clean and easy to top up, as necessary. Aside from being lighter, rigid forks have some definite benefits in winter.  Zero maintenance, save for washing and periodic inspection.  

Then of course, here in the UK, ground tends to be softer, so boing is less crucial, and I personally prefer the handling in these contexts. I went for the cantilever and disc mount version of the Carbon Cycles eXotic Fork with Disc and V Brake mounts Carbon Cycles Exotic Fork | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) on the grounds of versatility- I could switch to a cantilever stopper, if necessary but admit its disc only sibling is a sleeker choice. It also has other advantages when it comes to front mudguards.  

I had to modify the Mud Hugger Evo slightly to achieve a good fit. Cracking front guard (fender) incidentally. I also recognise that suspension technology has come along leaps and bounds since a set of Rock Shox Indy SL. Another lightweight and uncomplicated design that I raced with some twenty-three years back.  

Mine used the Eglund air cartridges which were a marked improvement on the OEM elastomers. They couldn’t be locked out, in the literal sense but near as damnit with the shock pump. Lock-out functions mean a bouncy fork can behave like a rigid fork without needing to switch and they’re a serious boon for more technical trails. Horses for courses.  

Lighting has also evolved and arguably more dramatically. However, when it comes to longer trail outings, I’ll still reach for a more traditional master blaster. The Sigma Buster HL2000 SIGMA SPORT BUSTER HL 2000 | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) has been around for some time now but in my book, still is truly relevant, especially given the 1300lumen mode is good for 5 hours riding. I’ve switched mine to the Lazer Chameleon Helmet in preparation but for the time being, am putting the Ravemen PR2000 through its paces. 

Thankfully, the weather’s still very balmy, so the Holdsworth and I have been enjoying some early morning blasts- I'd regret not taking this opportunity come November. Interestingly, the LR and PR series use the same mount, meaning it's easily ported between bikes- the Holdsworth and fixed gear winter trainer to suit. As a rough and ready guide, the LR series is optimal for road-biased duties, the PR for those who lean more toward the trail.  

  

The Holdsworth’s seat stay is also sporting the Infini Sword, which has impressed me with its frugality. The pulsing and flashing modes are surprisingly bright and peripheral presence is better than I was expecting and when compared with otherwise likeable Oxford Ultratorch  R50 Slimline Rear Light TEST & REVIEW: OXFORD ULTRATORCH R50 SLIMLINE REAR LIGHT (sevendaycyclist.com)    

Funny how things turn up when you’re not hunting them. My Park SPA2-C pin tool rematerialized, so I switched the Fixed Gear Winter/Trainer’s bog-standard crank bolts over to self-extractors. I also checked I still had a couple of 68x107 cartridge bottom brackets in stock, which I did. I tend to get around 8-9,000 miles from the UN55, 6,000 from patterns.

The Holdsworth is still running an ACOR unit and doesn’t do big miles, so I’m not expecting that to get the grumbles. However, they’re another part that trundles on faithfully and without complaint, then expires without notice. That said; I’d probably treat the Holdsworth to something more exotic, dare I say slightly lighter. On that note, I'll leave you with my review of the Carbon Cycles eXotic Carbon Titanium Seatpost Carbon Cycles eXotic Carbon Ti Sea | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)      

Boosting my Fibre Intake

 No, I’ve not upped my six Weetabix breakfast habit, rather carbon fibre/composites. As I’ve said before, beyond a certain time, an idea can become the only idea. In this instance, we’re talking carbon fibre cranks that a well-known online auction site’s algorithm reasoned I would be seduced by.  

Sensibly priced, 172.5mm long, and square taper, they’re clearly made in the Far East, which in some respects goes against the European narrative. I can always switch to either of the Campagnolo cranks and the rings too. Besides, they were from a reputable, long-established, Yorkshire-based supplier.  

Talking rings, I decided the OEM 53/39 pair were best consigned to the spares/bin. Worn rings aren’t going to do anything for shifting, or drivetrain health.  Chain ring bolts proved a little arthritic and stubborn- I'd toyed with the idea of introducing some penetrant spray, but a longer 5mm Allen key broke them free.  

Traditionally, I’ve always mounted rings with grease to get them nice, snug and weatherproof. Marine greases being my specific default, although I’ve also been known to employ those fortified with our old friend/foe, PTFE. In a pinch, a syrupy wet chain lube, or 10w/40 motor oil will suffice. Lithium types are durable but best avoided unless bolts and rings are of the same material. 

I’d no intention of re-using them but kept them by, since you never know...This presented ideal opportunity to thoroughly clean and inspect the arms and spider. These were in great shape. I gave both a quick waxing and placed some Zefal Skin Armor ZEFAL SKIN ARMOR ROLL | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  on the arms where there had been some faint misting in the lacquer-heel marks. Prevention is always better than cure and now was the time.  

I had this nice, shop soiled 53tooth Middleburn ring. So began the hunt for a suitable 36, 38, or indeed, 39 tooth inner. I thought I’d struck gold, rifling through one of the spares boxes but it turned out to be 130bcd. Then along came this NOS 42tooth 10speed Campagnolo Record. Bankrupt stock, so very keenly priced. 42 sounds a bit old school, dare I say passe’ but being as I’ve gone the 14-24 route at the rear, I’ll probably get more use out of a 42, rather than 39. Decision made.  

I’ve reached for Peaty’s Bicycle Assembly Grease PEATY'S BICYCLE ASSEMBLY GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), since it’s a good all-rounder with decent staying prowess. I had contemplated using thread lock but though I’ve needed to snug chain ring bolts every so often, in 37 years, I’ve never had some slacken to that extent. As a rough and ready, Cro-moly bolts should be tightened between 12 and 14nm, aluminium alloys 8-9.  

I’d been experiencing some discomfort with Ursula’s Respiro saddle, so decided I’d switch back to the Selle San Marco Concor Super Corsa. This also revealed the saddle was slightly misaligned, doubtless explaining the original discomfort. Either way, the Super Corsa provides a little extra support. I whizzed the carbon-railed Selle Italia Turbomatic Gel Flow Team atop the fixed gear winter/trainer’s inline Genetic SyngenicTEST & REVIEW: GENETIC SYNGENIC SEATPOST (sevendaycyclist.com) post, raised it by a few millimetres and saved 63g into the bargain. I also noticed the rear cradle bolt had slackened a little, which may account for a slightly disconcerting and intermittent phantom creak that snuck in a week previously.  

 

While I was there. I decided now was the time to switch the KMC S1 for the brands’ Z1.  I’d toyed with leaving the S1 in situ, changing when the present helping of ultra-stoical Motoverde PTFE Chain Lube Motoverde PTFE Chain Lube | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) needed replenishment. The Motoverde PTFE Chain Lube is not of the “top up” type, rather requires stripping “dinner plate” clean before a new application. It was a post-ride switch, and the weather was turning a little bandit, so I dismissed the Z1’s factory lube with a rag dipped in white spirit, rather than something potent but requiring cold water rinsing.  

I also noticed some premature wear with the Stronglight headset, which I attribute to a rogue unit, bought online from an unknown supplier, rather than from a regular, reputable one. Mutters something about all that glitters, false economy etc. I’ve gone for an FSA Orbit MX, also with cartridge bearings, rather than another Stronglight. I’d run an Orbit with bottom race cartridge bearing and caged balls up top, trouble-free for several years, so I’m hoping it’ll be a similar story. While I await its arrival, I’ll end here with a book review  The Road Book 1989 | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)