Boosting my Fibre Intake

 No, I’ve not upped my six Weetabix breakfast habit, rather carbon fibre/composites. As I’ve said before, beyond a certain time, an idea can become the only idea. In this instance, we’re talking carbon fibre cranks that a well-known online auction site’s algorithm reasoned I would be seduced by.  

Sensibly priced, 172.5mm long, and square taper, they’re clearly made in the Far East, which in some respects goes against the European narrative. I can always switch to either of the Campagnolo cranks and the rings too. Besides, they were from a reputable, long-established, Yorkshire-based supplier.  

Talking rings, I decided the OEM 53/39 pair were best consigned to the spares/bin. Worn rings aren’t going to do anything for shifting, or drivetrain health.  Chain ring bolts proved a little arthritic and stubborn- I'd toyed with the idea of introducing some penetrant spray, but a longer 5mm Allen key broke them free.  

Traditionally, I’ve always mounted rings with grease to get them nice, snug and weatherproof. Marine greases being my specific default, although I’ve also been known to employ those fortified with our old friend/foe, PTFE. In a pinch, a syrupy wet chain lube, or 10w/40 motor oil will suffice. Lithium types are durable but best avoided unless bolts and rings are of the same material. 

I’d no intention of re-using them but kept them by, since you never know...This presented ideal opportunity to thoroughly clean and inspect the arms and spider. These were in great shape. I gave both a quick waxing and placed some Zefal Skin Armor ZEFAL SKIN ARMOR ROLL | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  on the arms where there had been some faint misting in the lacquer-heel marks. Prevention is always better than cure and now was the time.  

I had this nice, shop soiled 53tooth Middleburn ring. So began the hunt for a suitable 36, 38, or indeed, 39 tooth inner. I thought I’d struck gold, rifling through one of the spares boxes but it turned out to be 130bcd. Then along came this NOS 42tooth 10speed Campagnolo Record. Bankrupt stock, so very keenly priced. 42 sounds a bit old school, dare I say passe’ but being as I’ve gone the 14-24 route at the rear, I’ll probably get more use out of a 42, rather than 39. Decision made.  

I’ve reached for Peaty’s Bicycle Assembly Grease PEATY'S BICYCLE ASSEMBLY GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), since it’s a good all-rounder with decent staying prowess. I had contemplated using thread lock but though I’ve needed to snug chain ring bolts every so often, in 37 years, I’ve never had some slacken to that extent. As a rough and ready, Cro-moly bolts should be tightened between 12 and 14nm, aluminium alloys 8-9.  

I’d been experiencing some discomfort with Ursula’s Respiro saddle, so decided I’d switch back to the Selle San Marco Concor Super Corsa. This also revealed the saddle was slightly misaligned, doubtless explaining the original discomfort. Either way, the Super Corsa provides a little extra support. I whizzed the carbon-railed Selle Italia Turbomatic Gel Flow Team atop the fixed gear winter/trainer’s inline Genetic SyngenicTEST & REVIEW: GENETIC SYNGENIC SEATPOST (sevendaycyclist.com) post, raised it by a few millimetres and saved 63g into the bargain. I also noticed the rear cradle bolt had slackened a little, which may account for a slightly disconcerting and intermittent phantom creak that snuck in a week previously.  

 

While I was there. I decided now was the time to switch the KMC S1 for the brands’ Z1.  I’d toyed with leaving the S1 in situ, changing when the present helping of ultra-stoical Motoverde PTFE Chain Lube Motoverde PTFE Chain Lube | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) needed replenishment. The Motoverde PTFE Chain Lube is not of the “top up” type, rather requires stripping “dinner plate” clean before a new application. It was a post-ride switch, and the weather was turning a little bandit, so I dismissed the Z1’s factory lube with a rag dipped in white spirit, rather than something potent but requiring cold water rinsing.  

I also noticed some premature wear with the Stronglight headset, which I attribute to a rogue unit, bought online from an unknown supplier, rather than from a regular, reputable one. Mutters something about all that glitters, false economy etc. I’ve gone for an FSA Orbit MX, also with cartridge bearings, rather than another Stronglight. I’d run an Orbit with bottom race cartridge bearing and caged balls up top, trouble-free for several years, so I’m hoping it’ll be a similar story. While I await its arrival, I’ll end here with a book review  The Road Book 1989 | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)   

 

Tests of Time

Nostalgia is very comforting and there were some genuinely great products and concepts back in the late 80s. Many I recall from the cycling press, read during my otherwise instantly forgettable, and decidedly dubious school career. Some have stood the test of time and remain very relevant, others consigned to history.

Anything dirt based with drop bars obviously grabs my attention. Specialized’s Rock Combo (sadly short-lived) and Muddy Fox’s Trailblazer being two prime examples. Seems I'm not the only fan, either! https://bikesboardsandphotos.wordpress.com/2018/01/21/specialized-rockcombo/ 

I’m not convinced U brakes were an inherently bad idea. They certainly offered considerable stopping prowess.

However, chain stay mounting was more conducive to dry, dusty California. Not the damp, leafy climes more commonly experienced in the UK and Canada. Little wonder why Kona mountain bikes were such a hit in the UK. Compact geometry framesets with sensible clearances. Designs that look current and still perform beautifully today.   

Some saddles fall into the classic narrative. Aside from traditional leather saddles, which has remained a quiet institution among tourists, there’s the Selle Italia Turbo, the Rolls etc. The catalyst for this sudden rush of retrospective was induced by the arrival of Selle San Marco Concor Super Corsa saddle. Tipping the scales at 320g, it’s not the lightest but hardly outlandish, so now sits pride of place on my fixed gear winter/trainer.

I had a Concor on my first fixed-a conversion based around a 501 tubed Raleigh frameset. 

When that frameset died in July ’92, I bought a comparable frameset from a small scale, midlands-based builder. Ported most of the stuff over and headed to London’s East End. University and idealism followed. Come ’94, I’d worn it smooth, the rails a little wobbly where they slotted in the base.

Flogged it to a cash strapped land surveying student for as little as I paid for it (Having bought a luminous yellow Turbo gel from a shop’s bargain bin). Not a bad buy and it matched the frameset’s lurid enamel. Shortly afterward, I’d primarily switched to cross country mountain bike racing and a flyte.

Had a couple of the minimalist, ti railed wonders and got along with them surprisingly well. Back then, saving every last gram, as economically as possible, was the primary focus. Though I keep a keen eye on my machine’s girth, it’s not at comfort’s expense.

That said, I was pleasantly surprised to discover this PRO Stream Off Road Saddle weighs a positively feathery 207g. Surprising, since the rails are stainless steel (Inox) Yes, there’s a bit of carbon involved, and on some levels, a less obvious choice for my Univega. However, I’ve been running the BBB Echelon with good results. Besides, being a mixed terrain, four seasons’ build its perfect for assessing the design’s capabilities and potential limitations. 

Classics aside much technology has improved considerably. Clothing is one area, where materials have become more sophisticated on the one hand but crucially budget and mid-point clothing staples arguably represents better value than ever before. I’ve been quite impressed by these middleweight Prendas Ciclismo Winter Cycling Socks https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/prendas-ciclismo-coolmax-winter-cyc   

Lighting and other, electrical tech are another, prime example. These days it’s difficult to find a poor light, thanks to competition. I’ve been particularly impressed by this Moon Meteor.

Not the most powerful designs (400 lumens steady, 500day flash) but extremely compact and a great companion to my high-power dynamo units. 

A good choice for pared-to-the essentials best/winter bikes.  Intelligent and tuneable designs are another clear trend. Knog Cobber Mid rear Light https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/knog-cobber-mid-rear-light  being one example. At the time of writing, these are at the upper end of the market. However, like most tech, it’s only a matter of time before this technology trickles down. 

Others, such as this See Sense Icon2 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/see-sense-icon-2-rear-light offer these options but are also capable of monitoring road surfaces and a wealth of other information. This can be shared, via their app and theoretically, has the power to shape town planning and improve safety. However, you don’t have to use all these features to appreciate its intelligent design.  

At the other end of the market, this Oxford Ultratorch R75 pumps out an impressive 75 lumens (tops) and so far, decent run times, from a full charge.

There are four modes in total. Three flashing (high, medium and low) modes and my default, flashing.  COB (Chips on Board) technology intensifies output, since you can pop more diodes within the same space. In this instance 24. 

These are fuelled by a lithium polymer cell and the unit meets IP65 for weatherproofing. To date, ours has been swamped with dodgy standing water, silt, spray and similar unmentionables with no issues. Talking of subverting wet stuff, I’ll close with my review of the Raw Prismatic reflective Mud flaps https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/raw-prismatic