Boosting my Fibre Intake

 No, I’ve not upped my six Weetabix breakfast habit, rather carbon fibre/composites. As I’ve said before, beyond a certain time, an idea can become the only idea. In this instance, we’re talking carbon fibre cranks that a well-known online auction site’s algorithm reasoned I would be seduced by.  

Sensibly priced, 172.5mm long, and square taper, they’re clearly made in the Far East, which in some respects goes against the European narrative. I can always switch to either of the Campagnolo cranks and the rings too. Besides, they were from a reputable, long-established, Yorkshire-based supplier.  

Talking rings, I decided the OEM 53/39 pair were best consigned to the spares/bin. Worn rings aren’t going to do anything for shifting, or drivetrain health.  Chain ring bolts proved a little arthritic and stubborn- I'd toyed with the idea of introducing some penetrant spray, but a longer 5mm Allen key broke them free.  

Traditionally, I’ve always mounted rings with grease to get them nice, snug and weatherproof. Marine greases being my specific default, although I’ve also been known to employ those fortified with our old friend/foe, PTFE. In a pinch, a syrupy wet chain lube, or 10w/40 motor oil will suffice. Lithium types are durable but best avoided unless bolts and rings are of the same material. 

I’d no intention of re-using them but kept them by, since you never know...This presented ideal opportunity to thoroughly clean and inspect the arms and spider. These were in great shape. I gave both a quick waxing and placed some Zefal Skin Armor ZEFAL SKIN ARMOR ROLL | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  on the arms where there had been some faint misting in the lacquer-heel marks. Prevention is always better than cure and now was the time.  

I had this nice, shop soiled 53tooth Middleburn ring. So began the hunt for a suitable 36, 38, or indeed, 39 tooth inner. I thought I’d struck gold, rifling through one of the spares boxes but it turned out to be 130bcd. Then along came this NOS 42tooth 10speed Campagnolo Record. Bankrupt stock, so very keenly priced. 42 sounds a bit old school, dare I say passe’ but being as I’ve gone the 14-24 route at the rear, I’ll probably get more use out of a 42, rather than 39. Decision made.  

I’ve reached for Peaty’s Bicycle Assembly Grease PEATY'S BICYCLE ASSEMBLY GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), since it’s a good all-rounder with decent staying prowess. I had contemplated using thread lock but though I’ve needed to snug chain ring bolts every so often, in 37 years, I’ve never had some slacken to that extent. As a rough and ready, Cro-moly bolts should be tightened between 12 and 14nm, aluminium alloys 8-9.  

I’d been experiencing some discomfort with Ursula’s Respiro saddle, so decided I’d switch back to the Selle San Marco Concor Super Corsa. This also revealed the saddle was slightly misaligned, doubtless explaining the original discomfort. Either way, the Super Corsa provides a little extra support. I whizzed the carbon-railed Selle Italia Turbomatic Gel Flow Team atop the fixed gear winter/trainer’s inline Genetic SyngenicTEST & REVIEW: GENETIC SYNGENIC SEATPOST (sevendaycyclist.com) post, raised it by a few millimetres and saved 63g into the bargain. I also noticed the rear cradle bolt had slackened a little, which may account for a slightly disconcerting and intermittent phantom creak that snuck in a week previously.  

 

While I was there. I decided now was the time to switch the KMC S1 for the brands’ Z1.  I’d toyed with leaving the S1 in situ, changing when the present helping of ultra-stoical Motoverde PTFE Chain Lube Motoverde PTFE Chain Lube | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) needed replenishment. The Motoverde PTFE Chain Lube is not of the “top up” type, rather requires stripping “dinner plate” clean before a new application. It was a post-ride switch, and the weather was turning a little bandit, so I dismissed the Z1’s factory lube with a rag dipped in white spirit, rather than something potent but requiring cold water rinsing.  

I also noticed some premature wear with the Stronglight headset, which I attribute to a rogue unit, bought online from an unknown supplier, rather than from a regular, reputable one. Mutters something about all that glitters, false economy etc. I’ve gone for an FSA Orbit MX, also with cartridge bearings, rather than another Stronglight. I’d run an Orbit with bottom race cartridge bearing and caged balls up top, trouble-free for several years, so I’m hoping it’ll be a similar story. While I await its arrival, I’ll end here with a book review  The Road Book 1989 | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)   

 

End of the Rack?

 Unless you’ve been living under a rock these past few years, you can’t help but notice the emergence of bike-packing, which swept in, alongside gravel and previously free road (an evolution of the cyclocross bike from 2008). These were characterised by Two or more sets of bottle, rack and mudguard mounts, so you could tour, commute and train on. Specialized’s Tri Cross was a very good example of this breed. 

There is a tendency for concepts to become dominant to the point of being the default, the only way of doing something. Back in the 80s/90s mountain bikes ruled supreme and I’d be the first to wax lyrical about a cross country mountain bike’s versatility. However, they’re not suited to all riding applications and every rider.

  

Now, bike packing luggage is designed to use the bike’s “empty spaces” and to some extent, turn the bike’s frame tubes into a giant rack. This also means you’re not limited by rack mounts or needing to add P-clips/similar, to run a 3/4point rack to attach panniers, top bags etc.  

Caveats about correct loading/weight distribution aside, decent bike packing luggage does not impair the bike’s handling, ort profile, say when tackling tight sections of trail/singletrack, which could also translate well to the urban jungle. However, certain configurations might be better for commuting.  

For example, a frame fit bag and something like this SQR Tour might be a more convenient setup than Bike packing seat packs. True, these are a good bit heavier (1390g. Compared with 450/500g) and you do need a decent amount of post exposed. However, the SQR Tour and Carradice Carradry remains my preferred option, when everything’s considered https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/carradice-carradry is more secure, laden with similar payloads.  

The quick-release system has a definite edge when it comes to convenience-removing them when locking up or heading home. The wide profile isn’t overly problematic when snaking through twisting forest trails, or indeed, lines of stationary traffic. I’m more conscious of the weight, when powering away from the lights, or winching along a climb.  

This also has a slight effect upon handling but not adversely so and something that didn’t take long to acclimatise to. Something like the Merida frame fit bag and the SQR Tour/Carradry, might be the perfect combination, with a small fuel tank bag riding on the top tube, or maybe a bar bag, such as this See Sense https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/see-sense-handlebar-bag if I was wanting to carry a little more within easy reach.  

No sooner had I thought this, Topeak’s UK importer sent me this 3 litre mid loader frame bag to play with.  Measuring 37.5 x 12 x 6 cm. The 3 litre is the smallest of the mid loader family-there are a 4.5 and a 6 litre siblings but my Univega’s 41cm frame means there’s little room in the main triangle.  Indeed, I may well need to switch the down tube cage around, or go for a Fidlock system.  

Apparently, the maximum payload is 6.5 kilos, which is impressive, especially given the 3 litre version weighs less than 197g. Staying with Topeak, courtesy of their Versamount, I’ve will also port the Apidura bolt on top tube bag to my Univega.  

Remember to wrap some clear “helicopter” tape or something similar, such as this Zefal Skin Armor Rollhttps://www.sevendaycyclist.com/zefal-skin-armor-roll where the straps touch the frame, since some minor movement is inevitable, and this can leave unsightly “tan lines”/similar marks in the lacquer/paintwork, especially when wet mud/dirt and grit are involved.  

Obviously, the same applies to racks/pannier frames, where the luggage touches, although high quality electrical tape seems the best remedy. Doing so prevents premature and unsightly wear, which can also lead to corrosion and other problems. When all’s said and done, I like pack-packing luggage and its arguably the right solution for lightweight camping/touring.  

However, it’s not the only one, nor is it optimal for all conditions. A good quality rack and single 20 lite pannier can be a more practical, stable solution for commuting, or general riding where you want a rigid load-bearing system. One where the bag can detach and refit in seconds and carried conveniently, in one, to the office/destination.      

Given there’s no middle cable for the front mech, there’s sufficient room for the mount component, without it, or the bag fouling the brake and gear inner wires. The bag’s bolt on design also seems to eradicate any need for the Velcro stabiliser strap.  

I’ve slipped it inside the bag for safe keeping. About bars, here’s my long-term review of the Acros Silicone bar wrap handlebar tape https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/long-term-test-acros-silicone-bar-w