Boosting my Fibre Intake

 No, I’ve not upped my six Weetabix breakfast habit, rather carbon fibre/composites. As I’ve said before, beyond a certain time, an idea can become the only idea. In this instance, we’re talking carbon fibre cranks that a well-known online auction site’s algorithm reasoned I would be seduced by.  

Sensibly priced, 172.5mm long, and square taper, they’re clearly made in the Far East, which in some respects goes against the European narrative. I can always switch to either of the Campagnolo cranks and the rings too. Besides, they were from a reputable, long-established, Yorkshire-based supplier.  

Talking rings, I decided the OEM 53/39 pair were best consigned to the spares/bin. Worn rings aren’t going to do anything for shifting, or drivetrain health.  Chain ring bolts proved a little arthritic and stubborn- I'd toyed with the idea of introducing some penetrant spray, but a longer 5mm Allen key broke them free.  

Traditionally, I’ve always mounted rings with grease to get them nice, snug and weatherproof. Marine greases being my specific default, although I’ve also been known to employ those fortified with our old friend/foe, PTFE. In a pinch, a syrupy wet chain lube, or 10w/40 motor oil will suffice. Lithium types are durable but best avoided unless bolts and rings are of the same material. 

I’d no intention of re-using them but kept them by, since you never know...This presented ideal opportunity to thoroughly clean and inspect the arms and spider. These were in great shape. I gave both a quick waxing and placed some Zefal Skin Armor ZEFAL SKIN ARMOR ROLL | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  on the arms where there had been some faint misting in the lacquer-heel marks. Prevention is always better than cure and now was the time.  

I had this nice, shop soiled 53tooth Middleburn ring. So began the hunt for a suitable 36, 38, or indeed, 39 tooth inner. I thought I’d struck gold, rifling through one of the spares boxes but it turned out to be 130bcd. Then along came this NOS 42tooth 10speed Campagnolo Record. Bankrupt stock, so very keenly priced. 42 sounds a bit old school, dare I say passe’ but being as I’ve gone the 14-24 route at the rear, I’ll probably get more use out of a 42, rather than 39. Decision made.  

I’ve reached for Peaty’s Bicycle Assembly Grease PEATY'S BICYCLE ASSEMBLY GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), since it’s a good all-rounder with decent staying prowess. I had contemplated using thread lock but though I’ve needed to snug chain ring bolts every so often, in 37 years, I’ve never had some slacken to that extent. As a rough and ready, Cro-moly bolts should be tightened between 12 and 14nm, aluminium alloys 8-9.  

I’d been experiencing some discomfort with Ursula’s Respiro saddle, so decided I’d switch back to the Selle San Marco Concor Super Corsa. This also revealed the saddle was slightly misaligned, doubtless explaining the original discomfort. Either way, the Super Corsa provides a little extra support. I whizzed the carbon-railed Selle Italia Turbomatic Gel Flow Team atop the fixed gear winter/trainer’s inline Genetic SyngenicTEST & REVIEW: GENETIC SYNGENIC SEATPOST (sevendaycyclist.com) post, raised it by a few millimetres and saved 63g into the bargain. I also noticed the rear cradle bolt had slackened a little, which may account for a slightly disconcerting and intermittent phantom creak that snuck in a week previously.  

 

While I was there. I decided now was the time to switch the KMC S1 for the brands’ Z1.  I’d toyed with leaving the S1 in situ, changing when the present helping of ultra-stoical Motoverde PTFE Chain Lube Motoverde PTFE Chain Lube | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) needed replenishment. The Motoverde PTFE Chain Lube is not of the “top up” type, rather requires stripping “dinner plate” clean before a new application. It was a post-ride switch, and the weather was turning a little bandit, so I dismissed the Z1’s factory lube with a rag dipped in white spirit, rather than something potent but requiring cold water rinsing.  

I also noticed some premature wear with the Stronglight headset, which I attribute to a rogue unit, bought online from an unknown supplier, rather than from a regular, reputable one. Mutters something about all that glitters, false economy etc. I’ve gone for an FSA Orbit MX, also with cartridge bearings, rather than another Stronglight. I’d run an Orbit with bottom race cartridge bearing and caged balls up top, trouble-free for several years, so I’m hoping it’ll be a similar story. While I await its arrival, I’ll end here with a book review  The Road Book 1989 | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)   

 

Cheese, Carbon Contemplation & Leather

 No, sorry to disappoint, these are not some newfound fetishes but now that I have your attention...I’ve been running in the fixed gear winter/trainer’s newly fitted Stronglight O-light Aheadset and tweaked the bearings twice in approximately 150 miles. Nothing obviously noteworthy in that statement. However, two sets of stem bolt heads have essentially turned to cheese, despite the use of decent tool bits and a torque wrench.  

Admittedly, the originals were a little rounded, four years down the line but the replacements I had initially plucked from small parts drawer literally turned to mush and had to be delicately extracted. To clarify, the threads were fine, it was the Allen heads that were decidedly soft.  

Disappointing, given they were supposedly stainless steel, not aluminium alloy. The latter may have some weight advantages, but decent quality stainless steel is the benchmark-unless your bikes are on extreme calorie-controlled diets.  

In this instance, titanium (proper, not the cheap as chips Chinese fare- the sort advertised as ti and £1.99 for 6 bolts) is a good bet, but remember a synthetic grease, such as White Lightning Crystal High Performance Clear Grease TESTED : WHITE LIGHTNING CRYSTAL GREASE (sevendaycyclist.com) if you’re pairing them with 6061/7005 aluminium alloys, or indeed, lightweight steel, otherwise they could forma very stubborn, galvanic bond.  

Ti to ti (in common with steel to steel and aluminium alloy to aluminium alloy) is fine with PTFE, or even lithium-based preps-it's just when you mix metals of different parentage that problems can present.  

Long story short, more rummaging in the small parts jumble trays unearthed to compatible units, which were breezed in and torqued down to 5nm. I purchased some spares online, so there’s some in reserve, but crucially, these are perfectly adequate and of reasonable quality.  

Point is, like tubes and chains, it’s good to keep a supply since they usually fail at the least convenient and arguably most frustrating time-namely when the shops closed, and a job that could have been done in a few minutes has to wait.   

While the fixed gear winter/trainers’ Kinesis carbon fork seems in good health, I’m keeping an eye out for a suitable replacement. Not that it overly complicates matters but given the frame hails from 2005, I need a traditional 1 1/8th steerer- not tapered and Q/R, not through axle. They’re still around and worst-case scenario, I’d go for a decent, lightweight 4130 cro-moly replacement, which may add a few grams but, all things being equal, will last a lifetime and without undue anxiety. Serendipity will guide for now.  

I was once described as “philosophical” by two young women I had gone to school with. It was the summer of 1990, Anette and Justine were working in a dress factory, while waiting for our exam results.  

They were hoping to join the navy. Anette’s comment was a polite way of implying that I didn’t care about the results, had little ambition, or drive. Couldn’t’ve been further from the truth. I’ve always been adept at bluffing, as a defence mechanism. I will also adapt, regardless which way the wind blows, but never lacked focus, ambition, or direction.   

Ursula and fixed gear winter/trainer both sport traditional leather saddles. Ursula this Cycles Berthoud Soulor CYCLES BERTHOUD SOULOR LEATHER SADDLE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) , the fixed, this honey Spa Cycles Aire Titanium, which is made from Australian cowhide. Both have served year-round and haven’t required anything, save for periodic “feeding” with suitable leather food, to keep the hides nourished and protected from the elements.  

Both have done many thousands of miles on both, so custom formed to my derriere.  I’ve had some nice leather bar wraps, too, including this Bobbin TESTED: BOBBIN LEATHER HANDLEBAR TALE (sevendaycyclist.com). Again, provided you’ve given the hide a periodic feeding, they should hold their looks and perform well for several years. I’d also run Brooks for several years, hell n’ high water.  

Save for some patina and fading, it racked up thousands of miles, before I replaced it. I have also dressed its bars with some store-branded leather tape for several years. Souma leather have sent me theirs to test, which was warmly appreciated. I’ve designated this one for the fixed, since Ursula had recently been upgraded to some 3.5mm thick Ergon BT Gravel Bar Tape.  

I’m still perfectly happy with the silicone adorning the Holdsworth’s drops and see no reason to replace the Kranx Stretta Primo High Grip Anti Shock KRANX STRETTA PRIMO ANTI SHOCK BAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) presently dressing the Teenage Dream’s Salsa bell lap. Cyclo cross bars on a road bike???...Yes, I love drop bars on mountain bikes too, which probably goes some way to explaining my fondness for Ross Shafer’s Salsa Cycles (although he has long since sold the brand). On that note, I'll leave you with my review of the Shimano PD ED500 Pedals Shimano PD ED 500 Pedals | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)