Cheese, Carbon Contemplation & Leather

 No, sorry to disappoint, these are not some newfound fetishes but now that I have your attention...I’ve been running in the fixed gear winter/trainer’s newly fitted Stronglight O-light Aheadset and tweaked the bearings twice in approximately 150 miles. Nothing obviously noteworthy in that statement. However, two sets of stem bolt heads have essentially turned to cheese, despite the use of decent tool bits and a torque wrench.  

Admittedly, the originals were a little rounded, four years down the line but the replacements I had initially plucked from small parts drawer literally turned to mush and had to be delicately extracted. To clarify, the threads were fine, it was the Allen heads that were decidedly soft.  

Disappointing, given they were supposedly stainless steel, not aluminium alloy. The latter may have some weight advantages, but decent quality stainless steel is the benchmark-unless your bikes are on extreme calorie-controlled diets.  

In this instance, titanium (proper, not the cheap as chips Chinese fare- the sort advertised as ti and £1.99 for 6 bolts) is a good bet, but remember a synthetic grease, such as White Lightning Crystal High Performance Clear Grease TESTED : WHITE LIGHTNING CRYSTAL GREASE (sevendaycyclist.com) if you’re pairing them with 6061/7005 aluminium alloys, or indeed, lightweight steel, otherwise they could forma very stubborn, galvanic bond.  

Ti to ti (in common with steel to steel and aluminium alloy to aluminium alloy) is fine with PTFE, or even lithium-based preps-it's just when you mix metals of different parentage that problems can present.  

Long story short, more rummaging in the small parts jumble trays unearthed to compatible units, which were breezed in and torqued down to 5nm. I purchased some spares online, so there’s some in reserve, but crucially, these are perfectly adequate and of reasonable quality.  

Point is, like tubes and chains, it’s good to keep a supply since they usually fail at the least convenient and arguably most frustrating time-namely when the shops closed, and a job that could have been done in a few minutes has to wait.   

While the fixed gear winter/trainers’ Kinesis carbon fork seems in good health, I’m keeping an eye out for a suitable replacement. Not that it overly complicates matters but given the frame hails from 2005, I need a traditional 1 1/8th steerer- not tapered and Q/R, not through axle. They’re still around and worst-case scenario, I’d go for a decent, lightweight 4130 cro-moly replacement, which may add a few grams but, all things being equal, will last a lifetime and without undue anxiety. Serendipity will guide for now.  

I was once described as “philosophical” by two young women I had gone to school with. It was the summer of 1990, Anette and Justine were working in a dress factory, while waiting for our exam results.  

They were hoping to join the navy. Anette’s comment was a polite way of implying that I didn’t care about the results, had little ambition, or drive. Couldn’t’ve been further from the truth. I’ve always been adept at bluffing, as a defence mechanism. I will also adapt, regardless which way the wind blows, but never lacked focus, ambition, or direction.   

Ursula and fixed gear winter/trainer both sport traditional leather saddles. Ursula this Cycles Berthoud Soulor CYCLES BERTHOUD SOULOR LEATHER SADDLE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) , the fixed, this honey Spa Cycles Aire Titanium, which is made from Australian cowhide. Both have served year-round and haven’t required anything, save for periodic “feeding” with suitable leather food, to keep the hides nourished and protected from the elements.  

Both have done many thousands of miles on both, so custom formed to my derriere.  I’ve had some nice leather bar wraps, too, including this Bobbin TESTED: BOBBIN LEATHER HANDLEBAR TALE (sevendaycyclist.com). Again, provided you’ve given the hide a periodic feeding, they should hold their looks and perform well for several years. I’d also run Brooks for several years, hell n’ high water.  

Save for some patina and fading, it racked up thousands of miles, before I replaced it. I have also dressed its bars with some store-branded leather tape for several years. Souma leather have sent me theirs to test, which was warmly appreciated. I’ve designated this one for the fixed, since Ursula had recently been upgraded to some 3.5mm thick Ergon BT Gravel Bar Tape.  

I’m still perfectly happy with the silicone adorning the Holdsworth’s drops and see no reason to replace the Kranx Stretta Primo High Grip Anti Shock KRANX STRETTA PRIMO ANTI SHOCK BAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) presently dressing the Teenage Dream’s Salsa bell lap. Cyclo cross bars on a road bike???...Yes, I love drop bars on mountain bikes too, which probably goes some way to explaining my fondness for Ross Shafer’s Salsa Cycles (although he has long since sold the brand). On that note, I'll leave you with my review of the Shimano PD ED500 Pedals Shimano PD ED 500 Pedals | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

Darker, Cooler, Wetter

Continuing my theme of winter prep, I’ve received a set of these Mudhugger Gravel Hugger mudguards for testing. My fixed gear winter/trainer is the obvious candidate. Now, it sported traditional, full-length guards for several years. However, in common with Ursula, it runs the Gusset Headlock system rather than the star-fangled nut. This means the front guard needs to be drilled (so the threaded bolt can pass through), setting bearing tension and aligning the guard, first time round is something of a juggling act.  

Fine when set up, but on my fixed gear winter/trainer, the rear guard also needs to be drilled to mount to the wishbone, and tackling a rear puncture often requires loosening the stays. Sure, this is a relatively rare event, especially with tyres such as the Kenda  Kwick Journey KS Plus KENDA KWICK JOURNEY TYRES | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) but it’s not something I relish on cold, wet, gritty nights. Hence, clip-on designs are the way forward.  

Made from (material) the Gravel Hugger are incredibly convenient to install, although (and this goes for all this genre), a bit of “Helicopter Tape” (Thoughtfully Mudhugger have included some) or, in a pinch, good quality electrical tape prevents any potential abrasion of seat stay paintwork.  

The sort often caused by that infamous wet, gritty stuff I was talking about earlier. Crucially, there is a generous length at the rear to protect rider and machine from muck and spray. Back to full-length mudguards (fenders), it’s worth giving fasteners a quick lick of medium strength thread lock. Strong enough to prevent them shaking loose, and getting lost but permit straightforward, intentional disassembly. I’d also be inclined to give carrier, cantilever, and V brake bolts a very quick lick but swerve disc hardware.  

Now, many folks will point out that 26-inch wheels are old-fashioned, rather than “old school”. However, those of you are running an older mtb (s) as an asphalt commuter, or hardy winter bike may find 700c mudguards fit very well and offer superior protection, especially with big flaps, such as these   RAW Prismatic Reflective Yellow Mudflaps  RAW PRISMATIC REFLECTIVE MUDFLAPS | cycling, but not usually racing (sevendaycyclist.com)   

Elsewhere, while it's still been temperate enough for short sleeve summer weight jerseys, base layers and bib shorts-even at 5am, this isn’t likely to continue too much longer. Therefore, I stuff a micro jacket, or gilet into the bike-mounted luggage, rather than risk a lingering chest infection. The sort that leaves me coughing like a life-long chain-smoking welder. Some mornings have called for the Prendas Ciclismo Paris Bordeaux Long Sleeve Jersey PRENDAS CICLISMO LONG SLEEVE JERSEY | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

The Sigma Infinity continues to grow on me with its blend of prowess, simplicity, and frugality. Though lacking the outright punch of some big lumen flashers, it's surprisingly potent, especially in some seriously misty conditions. Ok, not quite “pea-soupers” or synonymous with the moors scenes in American Werewolf in London (which by the way, is one of my all-time favourite horror films.) 

Elsewhere, I was rather delighted to discover another roll of the fabulous Velo Orange Rubbery Baer Tape landing on my door. Conor reckoned his initial consignment had gone missing within the states, so very graciously sent another. I wasted no time in dressing the fixed’s bars. I regularly talk about chain lubes but until recently, have stuck with the factory stuff on Ursula’s latest KMC. Partly as I wanted to confirm that the cassette swap solved the mid-range remote shifting woes.  

For the record, the factory prep is very good and, in some instances, I’ve passed the 500-mile mark, during winter. Anyhow, 225 miles down the line, having returned from a 5 am “pea souper”, I decided the chain looked deceptively thirsty, so I found myself getting busy with the solvent bath. The oily residue clued me in, but there we are. Time being I’ve gone back to the Peaty’s LInk Lube Dry PEATYS LINK LUBE DRY CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) since conditions allow and for me at least, it’s a decent fair-weather default.