Muffin Racks up The Miles

 

Having tweaked the chain tension and tightened the ring bolts to 10nm, I was feeling more confident with Muffin and keen to gently rack up some miles to bed everything in properly and possibly reflect on further modifications/upgrades. Frankly, I’d built with everything I’d intended, rather than older parts and compromises.  Consumables such as chains, sprockets and bar tapes will be replaced but nothing major.

After some deliberation, I found myself pruning the chain by two links, sliding the frame forward in the dropouts and getting the chain play to 1/2inch, which is the textbook suggested ideal. I also found myself replacing the inner brake wire, then dialling in the TRP Spyre, which improved stopping somewhat. Presented the ideal opportunity to play with the Park torque wrench some more.  Simple tweaks can often make huge differences. I also run a little scrap butyl where the frame fit pump rests against the top tube’s underside, protecting it from unwanted rub and ultimately, paint damage.

Though the V2 was always fun and predictable, Muffin’s bigger clearances, improved lateral stiffness and general modernisations make for a very well-balanced machine with a magic carpet ride-especially with the Continental. These clearances also mean I can run 35mm Schwalbe Marathon Winter (spikes) during the darker months. Features that better suits my riding style. That said, I remain fond of the V2 and its geared, first generation Kaffenback (Think Café’ & back) cousin (which would also take 32mm tyres including mudguards). Think winter/trainer cum working bike, although some folks report theirs were reliable lightweight tourers- I can well believe it.

Talking of small jobs, shoe cleats are often neglected, and these Shimano had served me very well but were showing obvious signs of deterioration. Mercifully, the bolts, though slightly arthritic came away with a quick shot of Muc-Off MO94 Muc-Off MO94 Multi Use Spray | cycling-not-racing. I had thought one wasn’t going to budge, calling for the drill bity but thankfully this also shifted with a T25 Torx. I instated the new Leatt cleats with a liberal helping of Oxford Toque Assembly Grease Oxford Mint Assembly Grease | cycling-not-racing and torqued them to 4nm using the Velo Tool Torque Wrench.

 I’d also been keen to test the effectiveness of some degreasers on waterproof grease. Ironically, Ursula’s Shimano XT seemed slightly reticent to budge. A quick shot of MO94 helped with this reticence. Some Park Tool PL1000TESTED: PARK TOOL POLYLUBE 1000 LUBRICANT FOR BICYCLES still remained on the threads, which is impressive, since it had been a year or so since I removed them. I treated them to a modest helping of degreaser, reinstating them with a liberal lick of Oxford Torque Assembly Grease. 

Ursula and I have also been enjoying further exploratory meanders far from the maddening crowd. The CST Patrol is running behind, the Continental Cross King Black Chil up front. There’s a method to this, primarily since the CST Patrol are slightly narrower, thus giving greater clearance at the rear triangle. The Patrol are also 80g heavier than the Cross Kings and I’m wondering if this has any connection to the EPS (Extreme Puncture Safety) belt, which is 4 on CST’s scale. It also allows me to compare rolling resistance and similar performance characteristics.

 I’m genuinely impressed by both at the moment and in similar contexts, although there’s a substantial price differential between them. The Patrol (at least in 26inch guise) aren’t tubeless ready, which may be a consideration, nay dealbreaker for some. I can appreciate some very palpable advantages of tubeless setups but on balance, still prefer tubes, whether the humble butyl, or TPU.   

 Either way, both tyres are providing a dependable, compliant ride over some very badly surfaced gravel roads and farm tracks. Longer excursions also confirm I’ve got Ursula’s saddle height absolutely right.      

      

 

 

Boosting my Fibre Intake

 No, I’ve not upped my six Weetabix breakfast habit, rather carbon fibre/composites. As I’ve said before, beyond a certain time, an idea can become the only idea. In this instance, we’re talking carbon fibre cranks that a well-known online auction site’s algorithm reasoned I would be seduced by.  

Sensibly priced, 172.5mm long, and square taper, they’re clearly made in the Far East, which in some respects goes against the European narrative. I can always switch to either of the Campagnolo cranks and the rings too. Besides, they were from a reputable, long-established, Yorkshire-based supplier.  

Talking rings, I decided the OEM 53/39 pair were best consigned to the spares/bin. Worn rings aren’t going to do anything for shifting, or drivetrain health.  Chain ring bolts proved a little arthritic and stubborn- I'd toyed with the idea of introducing some penetrant spray, but a longer 5mm Allen key broke them free.  

Traditionally, I’ve always mounted rings with grease to get them nice, snug and weatherproof. Marine greases being my specific default, although I’ve also been known to employ those fortified with our old friend/foe, PTFE. In a pinch, a syrupy wet chain lube, or 10w/40 motor oil will suffice. Lithium types are durable but best avoided unless bolts and rings are of the same material. 

I’d no intention of re-using them but kept them by, since you never know...This presented ideal opportunity to thoroughly clean and inspect the arms and spider. These were in great shape. I gave both a quick waxing and placed some Zefal Skin Armor ZEFAL SKIN ARMOR ROLL | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  on the arms where there had been some faint misting in the lacquer-heel marks. Prevention is always better than cure and now was the time.  

I had this nice, shop soiled 53tooth Middleburn ring. So began the hunt for a suitable 36, 38, or indeed, 39 tooth inner. I thought I’d struck gold, rifling through one of the spares boxes but it turned out to be 130bcd. Then along came this NOS 42tooth 10speed Campagnolo Record. Bankrupt stock, so very keenly priced. 42 sounds a bit old school, dare I say passe’ but being as I’ve gone the 14-24 route at the rear, I’ll probably get more use out of a 42, rather than 39. Decision made.  

I’ve reached for Peaty’s Bicycle Assembly Grease PEATY'S BICYCLE ASSEMBLY GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), since it’s a good all-rounder with decent staying prowess. I had contemplated using thread lock but though I’ve needed to snug chain ring bolts every so often, in 37 years, I’ve never had some slacken to that extent. As a rough and ready, Cro-moly bolts should be tightened between 12 and 14nm, aluminium alloys 8-9.  

I’d been experiencing some discomfort with Ursula’s Respiro saddle, so decided I’d switch back to the Selle San Marco Concor Super Corsa. This also revealed the saddle was slightly misaligned, doubtless explaining the original discomfort. Either way, the Super Corsa provides a little extra support. I whizzed the carbon-railed Selle Italia Turbomatic Gel Flow Team atop the fixed gear winter/trainer’s inline Genetic SyngenicTEST & REVIEW: GENETIC SYNGENIC SEATPOST (sevendaycyclist.com) post, raised it by a few millimetres and saved 63g into the bargain. I also noticed the rear cradle bolt had slackened a little, which may account for a slightly disconcerting and intermittent phantom creak that snuck in a week previously.  

 

While I was there. I decided now was the time to switch the KMC S1 for the brands’ Z1.  I’d toyed with leaving the S1 in situ, changing when the present helping of ultra-stoical Motoverde PTFE Chain Lube Motoverde PTFE Chain Lube | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) needed replenishment. The Motoverde PTFE Chain Lube is not of the “top up” type, rather requires stripping “dinner plate” clean before a new application. It was a post-ride switch, and the weather was turning a little bandit, so I dismissed the Z1’s factory lube with a rag dipped in white spirit, rather than something potent but requiring cold water rinsing.  

I also noticed some premature wear with the Stronglight headset, which I attribute to a rogue unit, bought online from an unknown supplier, rather than from a regular, reputable one. Mutters something about all that glitters, false economy etc. I’ve gone for an FSA Orbit MX, also with cartridge bearings, rather than another Stronglight. I’d run an Orbit with bottom race cartridge bearing and caged balls up top, trouble-free for several years, so I’m hoping it’ll be a similar story. While I await its arrival, I’ll end here with a book review  The Road Book 1989 | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)   

 

Workshop Wins

 March arrived and I decided it was time to inspect the Teenage Dream, so it would be ready for the sunnier, drier roads. Old school freewheels like to be lubricated annually, so I drizzled some Weldtite TF2 All Weather Lube with Teflon into the mechanism while the wheel was spinning at a decent velocity.  

There was also the distinct possibility that it could be nearing the end of its life. With this in mind, I thought it best to get something in stock, just in case I needed to switch. Besides, the last thing I wanted was the Regina to blow its guts miles from home.  

Happened to a friend during my teens. Belting along a 1 in 7, there was a steady tinkling as 100 bearings made their bid for freedom, bouncing across the tarmac. Now, I can appreciate why some folks rebuild a treasured example-either out of sentiment, or to stretch themselves. Kudos to them, too. However, it’s not something I’m prepared to do, unless absolutely essential.  

IRD still make some very pretty screw-on freewheels but a little steep for my needs. If I were doing big mileages, maybe. However, the Teenage Dream is very much a sunny days’ plaything. Nostalgia comes at a price, and I wasn’t prepared to fork out retro money for another, used Regina BX.  

After some deliberation and research, I decided this inexpensive electroplated Sun Race was the way forward. I’d also heard good things from someone who’d ridden a couple of Eroica events with theirs.  

For the time being, I’ll see what magic the Weldtite TF2 All Weather can work, before switching to the 14-24 Sun Race. Now, this will be a little under-geared for some and in some respects, I’d agree. However, screw-on freewheels aren’t so readily available, so choice of ratios follows suit.  Slightly lower ratios won’t do my knees any harm and should also mean more time on the 53 ring.   

I’d expressed an interest in testing the CST Cito tyres. These are 170tpi folders and offered in 25, or 28mm (about 1.1 in) sections. Given the Teenage dream’s clearances, I went for the 25mm (about 0.98 in), which tip the scales at a feathery 252g apiece. They also feature the same EPS puncture-resistant technology as the Pika CST Pika Gravel Tyres | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com).   

This is essentially an added layer of proprietary rubberised Poly fiber between the tread and the casing. A system, which is designed to offer the best balance between ride quality and puncture resistance. I’ve had one flat with the Pika, but that was using a TPU tube, and I couldn’t find anything embedded, suggesting it was a hedge clipping that had just grazed it.

  

I also switched from the Lezyne Road drive pump in favour of Ursula’s Lezyne, since this rather fetching Topeak Gravel2 had arrived for testing (and was arguably a better fit for the tubby tourer). An ideal opportunity to add a lick of Peaty’s Bicycle Assembly Grease, to the bottle mounting hardware.   

 

We weren’t done there. I’d been wanting to fit a Stronglight A9 headset to the Dawes Edge frameset.  

I was concerned about the fork falling and getting damaged, so coupling the two, then popping some plumbers lagging around the tubes made for safer storage. Thankfully, I still have traditional headset spanners- a Campagnolo and a pair of BBB. I’d had the Campagnolo for over thirty years and the wallet-friendly, yet accurately machined BBB were sent to me for review fourteen years back.   

Bit of an Easter Egg Hunt but similarly satisfying-found them in two boxes.  Nice when a plan comes together. Headset was treated to some of the Juice Lubes Bearing Juice I used to pack the XT and Deore hubs.  

I also treated the frame to some internal preserve and the paint to a liberal waxing using this Naked Bikes Pro Wax Special Edition NAKED BIKES PRO WAX SPECIAL EDITION | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and checked some of the frame threads, since I was in the mood. Now was the time, after all.  

Talking of threads, I decided it was time to exorcise the 16-tooth Ti track sprocket that had been wedded to the Halo fixed hub for a decade. Given the neglect and constant exposure to wet, wintry roads, I feared it was right royally stuck, or release would take the hub’s threads too. A liberal helping of penetrant spray was left for a minute to marinate.  

I introduced these Feedback Sports Cassette pliers and heaved anti-clockwise. I’d assumed the priest performing an exorcism stance. You know the one, verbally commanding the demons free. It was either going to relent, or I was going to expire... Movement came suddenly, yet predictably, inducing an elated cheer.  

I spun the sprocket free, cleaned the threads and applied a sensible amount of Peaty’s Bicycle Assembly Grease PEATY'S BICYCLE ASSEMBLY GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) before spinning it back in situ. Snugged tight, the fixed’s spare wheel is now right and ready to go. Seems the temperatures are bombing again, so best I get Ursula’s spikes back on...Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro Tyres | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and reflect on whether it’s time to for sintered pads DiscoBrakes Sintered Brake Pads | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)