Reinvention, Regeneration & Reward

 

Genetic Neuron accessory mount in situ across both bikes, I've found a cheap but cheerful stem with 45- degree rise and wasted no time in slotting the Ridgeback Gravel drops in situ, followed by the Dia Compe EVO V levers. There's no getting away from the fact I knew this idea would gather momentum- I could see my mind's mechanisms turning and doubtless you could too. However, it will stay in this state of limbo for now- the existing setup is perfectly functional and in good aesthetic shape, so switching over at this point is not a good use of time and other resources.

However, the perpetual fettler in me is compelled by such urges...By contrast there is also comfort in the familiar and life can force us to adapt, which is ultimately a good thing and very empowering, provided one does not toss in the towel.

I have been left in charge of Seven Day Cyclist Touring Commuting Recreation Rides Tests | Seven Day Cyclist and am having to learn site maintenance and design. Layout was a crucial part of my Newspaper journalism studies and something I struggled with, back in the days of paper and spray-mount. Would certainly explain my anxiety, dare we say the odd mental block. "Come back to it" were the immortal words of sage-like wisdom imparted to me by an old carpenter.  In this instance, I was 17 and struggling to produce some nicely flowing copy in longhand.    

There have been some very stressful moments that teleported me straight back to the final year of my degree over three decades ago. However, in common with that era, there’s similar resolve and determination to overcome the barriers and hurdles. Riding helps with perspective in all facets of life, although particularly pouring over something in a stuck position. However, there is also a huge difference between a positive break and running away or otherwise putting things off.

I’d introduced a Genetic Neuron Accessory MountGENETIC NEURON ACCESSORY BAR | cycling-not-racing to Denise  but then discovered I hadn’t a "Goldilocks" shim that would achieve vice-like tenure with the auction site special camera mount and Neuron’s 22.2mm extension tube. Some lateral thought, a rummage through the scraps box unearthed  some scrap  Ergon Orthocell Handlebar Tape Ergon Orthocell Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing, which is 3mm thick, thus double as a shim, offer some damping, while protecting the Neuron’s finish. Got me thinking about Scott’s Drop In Bar from the late 1980s- I recall someone running a set on their winter bike, mounting lights on the lower sections. However. They appear to be 26.4 and there’s no way I’d be paying classic prices for them, either.

 Though not inflexible, the Orthocell’s density means its tricker to bind evenly-at least over 70mm, and I’ve needed to apply electrical tape to both ends. Not as neat as I envisaged but passable aesthetically and very functional. I had toyed with mounting the camera lower, but experimentation confirmed brake and gear cable runs precluded this. It would’ve also meant less control when dis/engaging the camera. Presented an opportunity to grease the mounting hardware using some of the Zefal Pro Grease Zefal Pro II Grease | cycling-not-racing, which seems very effective, durable and seriously good value. Superb for hubs, headsets and contact points-especially on working bikes. I’d opt for Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing on Hollowtech II axles, and I’d steer away from suspension components but as general use workshop staples go, the Zefal seems hard to beat.

Muc Off Dark Energy Chain Wax continues to impress with its friction busting and seemingly durable properties, which will hopefully extend chain and other component life into the bargain.  Traditionally, dry and wax formulas have been great for cleanliness, low friction and responsive shifting in dry and dusty conditions, but required regular reapplication, especially when things turned showery, let alone wet. 

This is changing and while the Dark Energy is relatively pricey compared with some other waxes, performance is reassuringly good and then of course, this could be recouped courtesy of lower maintenance. The lack of dirt, grime and contaminant should also mean you're replacing sensitive, not to mention expensive drivetrain components less frequently. 

Horses for Courses is a phrase that still holds sway in my world. Someone recently substituted a healthy 105 group set for RX100, which might seem a strange choice, but they felt it made the bike more practical as a regular driver. I recall some folks saying they "Wouldn't put RX100 on a pram" when it was released back in the 90s.  

However, the 7/8 speed group is less exotic, thus less immediately attractive to casual thieves when locking up in the street, on an errand and 7/8 speed chains tend to wear better. I've had 2,000 miles, maybe a little more from a KMC fed a middleweight wet lube, such as Weldtite's All Conditions Lube Weldtite All Weather Lube | cycling-not-racing By contrast, a typical ten-speed chain has been bin fodder come 1400miles, like-for-like.   

Fettling Orgies

 

Having packed pedals, since I wanted to see how stiff this particular lithium-based prep would be through the darker, wetter months, I applied to Denise’s Hollowtech II axle. There was ample Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing clinging on, but then was the time. I’d noted the pinch bolts and pre-load were a little dry. The former were unexpectedly arthritic, so regreasing was imperative before seizure could creep in and cause mischief at the least convenient moment.     

Lithium based preps have an unenviable reputation for gobbling seals, elastomers and other rubberised components and can be a little stodgy.  

Fine on contact points, and very durable on winter hubs, but not necessarily desirable if you're competing and want to keep resistance at a minimum. While there's more discernible resistance compared with blends such as Peaty's Speed Grease (which I also surprisingly durable) its much lower than I'd expected and buttery smooth.

Staying prowess, temperature stability, water resistance and general durability are definite plusses and explains their traditional popularity in marine and automotive applications. Time will tell, but at £4.99 for 150ml, at face value, it seems a bargain for generic metal on metal duties.  It’s also been applied to cleat hardware, (which we're all guilty of neglecting until time comes for their replacement).  

Galvanic corrosion, say between metals of different parentage can be another issue- I wouldn't apply lithium to a titanium seat post used in a steel, or aluminium alloy frame for example. However, I'd be less concerned about an anodised aluminium post being used in a steel frame. A polished, fluted aluminium alloy post and I'd be reaching for a synthetic, or failing that, something PTFE based. 

I’ve decided to stick with wax and dry lubes while the weather allows and having covered 250odd miles on the Blub Wax, I’ve got busy with some Carbon friendly drivetrain cleaner, which I’ve had for some years and resurrected from the lubes box. It’s fairly straightforward to apply-simply spray liberally on the drivetrain, leave for a couple of minutes, agitate with a stiff bristled brush, or something like this Finish Line Gunge Brush Finish Line Grunge Brush Solo | cycling-not-racing

I reached for some Muc-Off Dry, since that was close to hand, MUC OFF DRY CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing In my experience, its closer to an emulsion and requires at least four hours to cure properly. Like the Blub, can also melt when temperatures hit the high 20s. In this state, it’s still relatively durable but also readily transfers to hands-annoying if you’ve dropped a chain, or needing to tackle a mid-ride mechanical. Checking the chain health suggests more life than first believed just past .25, so reckon I’ll get to the close of October, possibly even November before its bin fodder. However, I’ve pruned a fresh one down to 108 links in readiness for a quick switch. I noted the front brake pads were looking a little tired, so took this opportunity to replace the pads and regrease the cantilever posts using the Zefal Pro II Grease, which was time well spent and another little job off the list before autumn.   

Talking of switches, following a hunch that packing single sided pedal bodies with a stout grease would offer some weighting (making engagement easier) I switched Muffin to the silver A520 and also moved the down tube bottle cage slightly, which improved access.  

I’m pleased to report the Juice Lubes Bearing Juice has added some weighting and thus, made re-entry (say when frequently clipping in and out in slow moving traffic) more convenient.  While I was there, I  noted the K-Lite Ultra Low Drag K-LITE ULTRA LOW DRAG DYNAMO LIGHT | cycling-not-racing lamp rotating slightly on the Genetic Neuron Accessory Mount GENETIC NEURON ACCESSORY BAR | cycling-not-racing . easily cured by wrapping some scrap inner tube around the mount and replaced the 2.5mm cable ties.   

The nights were quickly drawing in, providing the perfect opportunity to assess the Magicshine Hori 1300’s prowess and I’ve been impressed, not only by the output but its useability. The wireless remote makes it very easy to toggle up and down to avoid dazzling other road users. To my surprise, though obviously good in the seen-with sense, the night flash is potent enough to navigate unlit roads by- at least to 14mph, which is useful should you need to drop down to conserve battery. 

The Repack aka Green Goo & Happy Pedals

 

After some deliberation and in some instances, a few years too many, I decided it was time to strip some of the Shimano pedals, specifically the M737 hailing from 1990. Cue Shimano TL-PD40SPD Axle removal tool, a 36mm headset spanner, some Juice Lubes Bearing Juice and WTB Grease. Though very effective, I’ve since gone for a metal tool with integrated handle, simply as its likely to be more durable, dare I say, more convenient.  

I started with these Shimano ED500, which have served well but were only a few years old. The lockring came free with reassuring ease and out with the axle. A quick wipe with a rag dipped in solvent rids any residual gunk or lube that might react unfavourably with the bearing juice or otherwise create mischief.

Mercury in the high twenties had softened the green synthetic putty nicely.  A liberal dollop from my index finger into the pedal body and from there simply a question of threading the axle home-noting right and left-hand threads.  Snugged down to 10nm the nasty soiled grease is forced out (in the same principle as pumping grease into a dedicated grease port). 

Wipe this and excess fresh grease. Now give the pedals a spin and check for any signs of play.  Ten minutes apiece, done twice yearly this will extend the life of bearings and other internals considerably.  Any decent waterproof grease will do, although I prefer stocky synthetics since they won't do anything nasty to seals and other rubberised components. 

A blend such as Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing is arguably better for hubs and Hollowtech II cranksets and possibly headsets but work just fine on pedals, if you’re a time triallist, or just really keen to keep friction lower than a snake’s testicles. I repeated this proves with the single sided A520 and its 530mountain bike counterpart. WTB WT-G Precision Bike Grease Wolf Tooth WT-G Precision Bike Grease | cycling-not-racing in the former, bearing juice the latter.

Back together and buttery smooth. 25 minutes all told, start to finish and strangely therapeutic. I switched Denise’s Leatt Endurance 6.0 in their favour, since I’d a hunch these patterns are the natural companion for the FLR MXT. Spoiler alert, this would seem so, although there’s a definite honeymoon period when it comes to contact points, any change.

I’ve always been a gang of one, my father perhaps unkindly referred to as a “non-joiner” hence I don’t belong to clubs, or similar social riding groups. I’ll chat, maybe share a joke mid ride, or at rest stops and I’m socially adept in commercial contexts. However, I’m very self-aware, can tell who is/not a good fit for me, like my own space and solitude to reflect and re-charge.  

The point of this lead up is the sudden preoccupation with a “male loneliness epidemic”. I’m not sure this is a contemporary phenomenon, rather getting a lot of attention in the context of romantic relationships. It has long been evidenced that men experience isolation due to their shrinking networks and relationships linked to formal work, whereas women forge cooperative relationships and identities beyond work and their immediate household.

This also means that many male relationships are centred around t economic sphere, and should there be a break- a loss in employment and the structures around this.

While this may have tapered off a little, thanks to the increasing number of people working remotely, there are a wealth of interactions engaged in and related with work. Similarly, there is the question of whether workplace relationships have any tangible depth or relevance outside of that environment.  Some people also persist or tolerate unhealthy relationships on the basis they fill a void and distract from tackling the real, underlying issues.  

I would also take some issue with the idea that gender roles have become more fluid. I'm not sure whether this is influencing a shift toward popularist right wing support, or whether such popularism seeks to entice people who are feeling more isolated, taking them along the classic fascist rabbit holes. Blaming women and other groups- trans people in particular for the perceived shortcomings-lack of status, access to opportunities etc. Classic themes in the fascist playbook.

Then of course, there is the stoking of fear. At present there is arguably a status anxiety, a sense of cultural de-throning. At its most basic, this is about people feeling threatened, resentful towards others and a desire not for improved opportunities, quality of life, or economic prosperity but pushing other groups down. This leads to a sense of restored dominance, dare I say superiority over others.  Right, I must whip out the patch kit and assert dominance over some wounded butyl.

 

Curiosity...

Left to my own devices, I became curious regarding the new Deore crankset’s suitability and wanted to check chain length, before introducing front mech, bar end shifter and cables.

 

Off came the 1x10 deore (switched to the Dawes Edge frameset for safe keeping GRAVEL ON A DUSTBOWL BUDGET: HARVESTING COMPONENTS (sevendaycyclist.com)). Plenty of Peaty’s Bicycle Assembly Grease PEATY'S BICYCLE ASSEMBLY GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) graced the Shimano XT Shimano Deore XT PD-M8100 Pedals | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) pedal threads.  

The Juice Lubes Bearing Juice was still clinging to the Hollowtech II axle. Pleasing, given its primarily designed for bearings SIMPLE SERVICE: CUP 'N' CONE HUBS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). . With the new, 2x10 Deore , I opted in favour of the Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). Everything back together and buttery smooth, 110 link chains seemed correct- no hint of straining at the lowest gears.  

Confirmed beyond reasonable doubt on the following morning’s twenty-mile test run. Nonetheless, I had plenty on, so the front mech and shifter could be fitted at my leisure. Sometimes things need to be works in progress, rather than rushed.  

Quitting while ahead some might say. Besides, the Crane Cousins sacrificed a front mech and shifter to save precious grams on their Special Products Raleigh Bikes for their epic tour...Journey to the Centre of the Earth - Richard Crane, Nicholas Crane - Google Books Ok, let’s not get too carried away...Who was I kidding???  

Saturday morning, I returned from a 430am ride and decided I’d get busy in the methodical, offer stuff up and check sense. I managed to retain the “child at Christmas” sense of urgency until 7am. Yup, that I’ll just do some preliminaries went out the window too. In for a penny... 

 

Chain split, the biggest challenge was the front mech.  

The Deore was proving a non-starter with the MPart Mount, so I decided to save time, cut my losses and reach for the STX. My hunch that the 24-year-old mech would save the day proved so. I also needed to remove the serrated panel from the rear Blumels Shiny Mudguards SKS BLUEMELS SHINY MUDGUARDS | cycling, but not ususally racing (sevendaycyclist.com) to allow unhindered cage travel. 

Cable outers cut, everything connected, I needed to adjust the travel but despite being designed for a 3x7, it slipped back and forth very snappily-without any cage manipulation. Although being a triple, I was meticulous, borderline neurotic when adjusting the limit screws.  

Having ensured it wouldn’t drop off either side, I reintroduced the Souma Leather Handlebar Tape Souma Leather Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), checked everything shifted reliably and popped the old girl away.

4.40am on Sunday morning, the acid test. Better quality inner wires tend not to require intervention but either way, I leave inner wires eight hours (or overnight) and then pull through once, if needed. I’d toyed with leaving things another day or so and switching to the fixed meantime but 440am came around and a shakedown ride called.  

No nasty surprises, the old STX shifted impeccably in both directions with no hint of cage rub, or similar teething troubles. That said; the Merida cage gracing the seat tube bottle boss chose this opportunity to expire- without warning. The tool caddy was ejected onto the front rings, causing a moment’s anxiety.  

In the darkness, I thought the worst-broken derailleur cage, popped chain... I had spare links and replacement magic links in the tool caddy in any case. I packed the cage into Ursula’s Axiom Ocean Wave City+ Seat Pack AXIOM OCEANWAVE CITY+ SEAT BAG | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and rode home. I’d considered this Zefal Pulse Z2 Zefal Pulse Z2 Bottle Cage | cycling, not usually racing (sevendaycyclist.com) before settling on the winged carbon fibre Boardman.  

While I understand and appreciate magic links, I’m not completely at ease with them. I much prefer a pin of some description and that’s on a derailleur transmission, let alone single speed, or fixed setup.  

A 2x10 transmission has given me a range between 26.9 and 84.3 inches some added power on the road with greater torque offroad, or when a trailer’s trundling behind.  

Staying with chains, the Muc-Off Wet lube seems to be holding its own, despite rains of biblical proportions. The sort that creates deep, lingering puddles, which can conceal a multitude of nasties-potholes are extremely fertile right now.  

John Moss has been developing a mount for the TRP HYRD calliper. Although I’m not in a rush for it (am planning to fit to coincide with cable and/or pad replacement), I'm getting quite excited...