Fettling Orgies

 

Having packed pedals, since I wanted to see how stiff this particular lithium-based prep would be through the darker, wetter months, I applied to Denise’s Hollowtech II axle. There was ample Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing clinging on, but then was the time. I’d noted the pinch bolts and pre-load were a little dry. The former were unexpectedly arthritic, so regreasing was imperative before seizure could creep in and cause mischief at the least convenient moment.     

Lithium based preps have an unenviable reputation for gobbling seals, elastomers and other rubberised components and can be a little stodgy.  

Fine on contact points, and very durable on winter hubs, but not necessarily desirable if you're competing and want to keep resistance at a minimum. While there's more discernible resistance compared with blends such as Peaty's Speed Grease (which I also surprisingly durable) its much lower than I'd expected and buttery smooth.

Staying prowess, temperature stability, water resistance and general durability are definite plusses and explains their traditional popularity in marine and automotive applications. Time will tell, but at £4.99 for 150ml, at face value, it seems a bargain for generic metal on metal duties.  It’s also been applied to cleat hardware, (which we're all guilty of neglecting until time comes for their replacement).  

Galvanic corrosion, say between metals of different parentage can be another issue- I wouldn't apply lithium to a titanium seat post used in a steel, or aluminium alloy frame for example. However, I'd be less concerned about an anodised aluminium post being used in a steel frame. A polished, fluted aluminium alloy post and I'd be reaching for a synthetic, or failing that, something PTFE based. 

I’ve decided to stick with wax and dry lubes while the weather allows and having covered 250odd miles on the Blub Wax, I’ve got busy with some Carbon friendly drivetrain cleaner, which I’ve had for some years and resurrected from the lubes box. It’s fairly straightforward to apply-simply spray liberally on the drivetrain, leave for a couple of minutes, agitate with a stiff bristled brush, or something like this Finish Line Gunge Brush Finish Line Grunge Brush Solo | cycling-not-racing

I reached for some Muc-Off Dry, since that was close to hand, MUC OFF DRY CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing In my experience, its closer to an emulsion and requires at least four hours to cure properly. Like the Blub, can also melt when temperatures hit the high 20s. In this state, it’s still relatively durable but also readily transfers to hands-annoying if you’ve dropped a chain, or needing to tackle a mid-ride mechanical. Checking the chain health suggests more life than first believed just past .25, so reckon I’ll get to the close of October, possibly even November before its bin fodder. However, I’ve pruned a fresh one down to 108 links in readiness for a quick switch. I noted the front brake pads were looking a little tired, so took this opportunity to replace the pads and regrease the cantilever posts using the Zefal Pro II Grease, which was time well spent and another little job off the list before autumn.   

Talking of switches, following a hunch that packing single sided pedal bodies with a stout grease would offer some weighting (making engagement easier) I switched Muffin to the silver A520 and also moved the down tube bottle cage slightly, which improved access.  

I’m pleased to report the Juice Lubes Bearing Juice has added some weighting and thus, made re-entry (say when frequently clipping in and out in slow moving traffic) more convenient.  While I was there, I  noted the K-Lite Ultra Low Drag K-LITE ULTRA LOW DRAG DYNAMO LIGHT | cycling-not-racing lamp rotating slightly on the Genetic Neuron Accessory Mount GENETIC NEURON ACCESSORY BAR | cycling-not-racing . easily cured by wrapping some scrap inner tube around the mount and replaced the 2.5mm cable ties.   

The nights were quickly drawing in, providing the perfect opportunity to assess the Magicshine Hori 1300’s prowess and I’ve been impressed, not only by the output but its useability. The wireless remote makes it very easy to toggle up and down to avoid dazzling other road users. To my surprise, though obviously good in the seen-with sense, the night flash is potent enough to navigate unlit roads by- at least to 14mph, which is useful should you need to drop down to conserve battery. 

Winding Roads & Wintry Stuff

 

Aside from being a product tester/reviewer, I’m something of a perpetual fettler, so fitting and switching components comes with the territory but I stick to horses for courses, seasonally appropriate-tyres and lubes being prime examples. Substituting the fixed’s rear Maxxis Re-Fuse in favour of The CST Xpedium Level 6 700x35C Single Compound 60tpi Wire Bead CST Xpedium Tyres | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) proved a good move. The Xpedium are a surprisingly compliant, grippy tyre, the level 6 with a very comprehensive puncture-repelling belt. I’ve quickly warmed to the Enve Handlebar tape, too. 

Winter might be a time when the best bike(s) go into hibernation but for me at least, it's also a time of quiet, but purposeful review. I found myself toying with switching the fixed’s D-Riser back to the On One Midge- a big, wide, swoopy drop whose buxom charms I first fell in love with back in 2005.  

Those were 25.4mm diameter and a little whippy, compared with the 31.8 and like a lot of lasting loves, it was initially slow burning but ran very deep. I’d sold both sets of Midge during the pandemic on the basis I’d had a glut of bars and was best served recouping money and space. Undoubtedly the right move but I was genuinely tempted by another set of Midge-black of course.  

However, chances are their greater width would necessitate longer cables and similar faff. More so, had I taken Ursula that route. Ruled that out on the basis the Soma Condor 2 hit the all-rounder sweet spot by a country mile. Besides, I’d just replaced the brake lever and cable and for time being at least, l am leaving the Souma leather handlebar tape in situ.

  

I wouldn’t describe myself as someone on the peripheries, or on the margins of society but beyond a certain point, I’ve never felt a compulsion to “fit in”.  Sure, I’m diplomatic and emotionally intelligent in my dealings with people and commercially, am something of a chameleon. Outside of that, I am very particular about my circle of influence, or who consumes my time/energies.  I have learned to be kind, but for want of a more fitting expression, take no shit.  

We must navigate through these and other rabbit holes to recognise who we are, our motivations and values. Some people travel through life never knowing. Others are heard animals, simply going along with whatever is presented before them and without critically evaluating anything. Rebelling against something simply because lots of others are doing it, is equally myopic.  Being in a relationship where there is coercion, control, and generic abuse to feel “normal” is a classic example of this. I contemplate all manner of things while I ride but there are (and always have been) some definite constants.  

  

As mucky, dark, and superficially bleak as winter can feel, the darkness can be very liberating. Once upon a time, some hardened riders advocated “running a cold out on the road”. A practice widely rebuffed as dangerous now, but I have been known to cast my darker thoughts, more malevolent demons throughout a ride and along deserted roads. In my early teens, cycling was my escape, from school, from bullying and anything else I didn’t want to confront head-on. It was also a means of cultivating self-esteem, a sense of clarity, and a fascination with whatever technology would improve the experience.  

  

I’ve long concluded that bullies are cowards. Some who I allowed to bully me subsequently developed heroin addictions rather than confront their own demons. One developed a heroin habit and served a custodial sentence rather than tackle his own sexuality. An illustration of how going against who you fundamentally are serves no purpose. Hard though it is to admit, I chose to marry someone unsuitable and paid an extremely high price, emotionally and financially.  

However, these things also taught me a great deal about myself, honed and about trusting intuition. It’s what we take and employ from these experiences.  She too was a bully and ultimately, I received the spanking some would say I needed. Yes, I have some very tangible regrets, some that hit most mornings as I wake but similarly, I’m not bitter. It's not about seeing the worst, I just read people, their intentions, and situations very carefully.  

People can leave us, and we have only moderate control over this. Marriage's end-either in death, or divorce, we must cultivate the skills and healthy coping mechanisms to navigate these and other of life’s challenges.   I digress... 

  

450 miles along, it was time to check Ursula’s chain, especially since I’ve been running stodgy wet lubes. These tend to attract mud, grit, and indeed light amounts of aluminium oxide from the rings.  

Aluminium oxide is the stuff of grinding discs, so said cocktail’s a recipe for accelerated wear. The Birzman Chain Checker is registering just below 5, so I’m hoping I’ll get through January before I’m reaching for another 106 link KMC.   

I’ve also switched from the SKS Lube Your Chain TESTED: SKS LUBE YOUR CHAIN (sevendaycyclist.com) to some Silca Super-Secret Chain Lube that arrived with the tape and Wolf Tooth Precision Bike Grease. Timely for re-packing hubs and headsets, in particular. Most stiff greases tend to be long-lived these days, but I find six-monthly inspections useful-especially during a very wet winter and if you’ve been venturing off-road.  Time I was dipping my fingers in the pot...   

Wrong Turns & Bum Steers

 No, I’m not referring to more headset dramas. Thankfully, the fleet’s Woodman, FSA and Stronglight are all buttery smooth and without play... 

Looking back on things it had been one of those days and serves as a reminder of how tiredness can impair judgment and lead us down some very blind alleys. Cycling and motorcycling are powerful metaphors for wider life, whether its touring, racing, or just well, riding. 

 

Diagnostics rather than repair are often the involved process and if you’ve started from the wrong point, then everything else will be “off”. Rather like being lost, following that same road will often lead to frustration and wasted time, sometimes (and where possible) its best to pack up and resume another time.  

Ursula’s chain had been jumping when climbing in the small ring. Chain and cassette were in nigh on perfect health, so I assumed it might be the Tiagra mech gumming up, maybe a cable issue...Fast forward to that Saturday afternoon. I’d been treating some minor corrosion on the KA and Micra’s sills and some minor grot on the latter’s door skin.  

As the photo illustrates, the Micra’s was deeper than first believed, requiring two hours welding. Anyhow, I’d given the first coats of marine primer a few hours curing and was waiting to apply a final thin coat.  

I decided now was the time to investigate Ursula’s drivetrain glitch...Spoiler alert, the KMC chain was too long, causing it to kick up. Pruning it from 110 to 104 links the following afternoon cured the problem. However, this wasn’t obvious to me the previous evening. I started by cleaning the Tiagra mech and assessing springs, alignment etc.  

Next thing I knew, I’d replaced the inner cable and even switched mech... No joy (obviously) but I’d an idea that perhaps the Microshift bar con was in fact an mtb version i.e., the pull ratios being different and thus ultimately incompatible with the Tiagra. Nope, not the root issue.  

Weary and dejected, I put Ursula away and downed tools for the day. Following morning, while on another mission, the penny dropped- chain too long! Returned that afternoon, switched the mech and cable, then pruned the chain.... Huzzah, up and down snappily and in both directions. I dare say there’ll be the odd quick tweak in the formative rides to come, but relieved and crucially, quit while ahead.    

I’ve been putting this System EX Grease Gun through its paces- hubs, headset bearings, seat posts etc. I’m still fond of the Finish Line Grease Gun, which has served me very well for a decade or thereabouts, but the System EX is all metal and has an extension for really detailed, mess-free delivery.  

Perfect for fasteners and similar small parts. Made me wonder what had happened to my old-school Dualco Mini Grease Gun. I’m confident it's safely packed away and wasn’t liberated post-move. Park GG1 looks very similar, save for the finish. These have some definite charm, assuming you’re not wanting, dare I say needing to switch between different types.

For these reasons, I’d probably go for a fully synthetic blend of grease, such as the White Lightning Crystal High-Performance Clear Grease TESTED : WHITE LIGHTNING CRYSTAL GREASE (sevendaycyclist.com) which can be applied to pretty much any component without fear of it doing something nasty to seals and delicate rubberised components.  

Generally, reliable, I’ve found the Dualco can “ingest” air, interrupting flow rate, so you’ll need to purge by slackening the top and inserting a screwdriver into the base and forcing upward until all the air is expelled. Not a big job but can take a few attempts, which can be frustrating if you’re mid-job.  

As for the System EX and Finish Line designs, these also need to be packed tightly. Fill the gun by hand and then, with chosen grease threaded tight, pump the tube until grease flows easily while depressing the trigger.    

From there, it's pretty much squeeze and go.  However, if you’re having issues, unscrew the gun, squeeze some grease into the chamber and then pump the tube, like a piping bag, or toothpaste until the grease rises to the top of the tube. Repeat as necessary until the tube’s spent. 

Elsewhere, The Hutchinson Challenger have arrived. Ours are the tubed, tan wall 28mmm versions reckoned good for 5,000kms and allegedly a more supple compound than typically found on other “endurance” models. It will be interesting to see how they compare with the Maxxis Re Fuse TR MAXXIS REFUSE TR FOLDING TYRE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), which are still serving faithfully on the fixed gear winter/trainer. Ending on a tyre-related note, here’s my review of the Topeak Smart Gauge DX2 Topeak Smart Guage D2X | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)