Boosting my Fibre Intake

 No, I’ve not upped my six Weetabix breakfast habit, rather carbon fibre/composites. As I’ve said before, beyond a certain time, an idea can become the only idea. In this instance, we’re talking carbon fibre cranks that a well-known online auction site’s algorithm reasoned I would be seduced by.  

Sensibly priced, 172.5mm long, and square taper, they’re clearly made in the Far East, which in some respects goes against the European narrative. I can always switch to either of the Campagnolo cranks and the rings too. Besides, they were from a reputable, long-established, Yorkshire-based supplier.  

Talking rings, I decided the OEM 53/39 pair were best consigned to the spares/bin. Worn rings aren’t going to do anything for shifting, or drivetrain health.  Chain ring bolts proved a little arthritic and stubborn- I'd toyed with the idea of introducing some penetrant spray, but a longer 5mm Allen key broke them free.  

Traditionally, I’ve always mounted rings with grease to get them nice, snug and weatherproof. Marine greases being my specific default, although I’ve also been known to employ those fortified with our old friend/foe, PTFE. In a pinch, a syrupy wet chain lube, or 10w/40 motor oil will suffice. Lithium types are durable but best avoided unless bolts and rings are of the same material. 

I’d no intention of re-using them but kept them by, since you never know...This presented ideal opportunity to thoroughly clean and inspect the arms and spider. These were in great shape. I gave both a quick waxing and placed some Zefal Skin Armor ZEFAL SKIN ARMOR ROLL | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  on the arms where there had been some faint misting in the lacquer-heel marks. Prevention is always better than cure and now was the time.  

I had this nice, shop soiled 53tooth Middleburn ring. So began the hunt for a suitable 36, 38, or indeed, 39 tooth inner. I thought I’d struck gold, rifling through one of the spares boxes but it turned out to be 130bcd. Then along came this NOS 42tooth 10speed Campagnolo Record. Bankrupt stock, so very keenly priced. 42 sounds a bit old school, dare I say passe’ but being as I’ve gone the 14-24 route at the rear, I’ll probably get more use out of a 42, rather than 39. Decision made.  

I’ve reached for Peaty’s Bicycle Assembly Grease PEATY'S BICYCLE ASSEMBLY GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), since it’s a good all-rounder with decent staying prowess. I had contemplated using thread lock but though I’ve needed to snug chain ring bolts every so often, in 37 years, I’ve never had some slacken to that extent. As a rough and ready, Cro-moly bolts should be tightened between 12 and 14nm, aluminium alloys 8-9.  

I’d been experiencing some discomfort with Ursula’s Respiro saddle, so decided I’d switch back to the Selle San Marco Concor Super Corsa. This also revealed the saddle was slightly misaligned, doubtless explaining the original discomfort. Either way, the Super Corsa provides a little extra support. I whizzed the carbon-railed Selle Italia Turbomatic Gel Flow Team atop the fixed gear winter/trainer’s inline Genetic SyngenicTEST & REVIEW: GENETIC SYNGENIC SEATPOST (sevendaycyclist.com) post, raised it by a few millimetres and saved 63g into the bargain. I also noticed the rear cradle bolt had slackened a little, which may account for a slightly disconcerting and intermittent phantom creak that snuck in a week previously.  

 

While I was there. I decided now was the time to switch the KMC S1 for the brands’ Z1.  I’d toyed with leaving the S1 in situ, changing when the present helping of ultra-stoical Motoverde PTFE Chain Lube Motoverde PTFE Chain Lube | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) needed replenishment. The Motoverde PTFE Chain Lube is not of the “top up” type, rather requires stripping “dinner plate” clean before a new application. It was a post-ride switch, and the weather was turning a little bandit, so I dismissed the Z1’s factory lube with a rag dipped in white spirit, rather than something potent but requiring cold water rinsing.  

I also noticed some premature wear with the Stronglight headset, which I attribute to a rogue unit, bought online from an unknown supplier, rather than from a regular, reputable one. Mutters something about all that glitters, false economy etc. I’ve gone for an FSA Orbit MX, also with cartridge bearings, rather than another Stronglight. I’d run an Orbit with bottom race cartridge bearing and caged balls up top, trouble-free for several years, so I’m hoping it’ll be a similar story. While I await its arrival, I’ll end here with a book review  The Road Book 1989 | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)   

 

Getting Some (Carbon) Fibre in Your Diet

It seems you can’t move for the once precious composite these days, although in stark contrast, budget/unbranded ‘cross forks have become rarer than the proverbial rocking horse dropping. Imagine my joy having uncovered this ITM Visa. Languishing in storage for a few years, some telltale tarnish was evident around the bosses but easily purged with a gentle tickling from the wire brush so they’ll be adorning the Ilpompino come the first available opportunity. Detailing is generally to a better standard than the OEM type, especially the polished alloy ends, although I’ve no doubt these emerged from the same factory in the far east simply dressed in different decals. Transplant surgery will be performed by Riverside Cycle Centre come the New Year since I have more pressing matters at hand and he has the full compliment of headset tools… Elsewhere on the carbon front comes Blackburn Airstik SL. Weighing a ridiculously svelte 57g (including bracket), it sports the marques legendary build quality and lifetime warranty, so the perfect stocking filler for bikes/riders on calorie controlled diets that puncture infrequently. Blackburn claim 160psi is possible and I quite believe them, although I collapsed in a heap after 120psi and five minutes sustained, rhythmic effort. Speaking of which, rain, sleet and snow present all manner of hazards, not least greatly impaired visibility and this is true whether you wear prescription or standard, polycarbonate three-lens systems. The old lick of washing up liquid around the rims of goggles, glasses and visors is a great homely remedy that goes a long way to curing annoying and potentially dangerous fogging but this high tech Sal Clear TTX hydrophobic spray leaves behind a glossy, water repellent barrier that sees rain-water, mud and spray slide from prescription lenses, generic sports eye wear and even camera lenses. Since it works on gravity, not speed utility riders have as much to gain from its’ properties as first category road racers. Safe on polycarbonates and similar plastics, it’ll buff a helmet to a water repellent, showroom shine in a matter of minutes and works a treat on mirrors and humble bar mounted computers too. Longevity is in piece of string territory since it will depend where you and your bike live and a host of similar environmental factors but I’m still cruising around on the first application-three weeks and three hundred or so miles on

Meanwhile, back in the spray shop, Maldon Shot blasting & Powder Coating have had a procession of interesting frames through the door recently, most notably a classic Raleigh steel chassis and this contemporary Specialized fixer-both undergoing a satin black rebirth.Every so often a beater catches my imagination and this sorry looking John Doe with tarnished electroplate rear triangle is a prime example. There’s no obvious clue as to its heritage and the forks may/not be original…Destined to be reborn in 5012 “Ninja” Blue, I suspect the existing electroplate will be stripped to the parent steel and painted accordingly…

Arguably of better pedigree and possibly hailing from the late 1950s is this battle weary red frameset. I’m not sure since surface corrosion around the bottom bracket shell obscures any numbers but it could even be a Holdsworth of similar vintage to my Zephyr …Watch this space.