Sorting the Small Stuff

Holiday season has been about sorting the small jobs. Some that can be a little fiddlier than first thought, others that subvert trouble, (which would otherwise strike at the least convenient moment). As often happens, one thing led to another. Having popped Ursula back on her hook, I inspected my fixed gear winter/trainer’s TRP Sypre SLC. A quick spin of the wheel and pump of the lever revealed binding pads and a badly frayed able at the TRP caliper’s pinch bolt.  

No deliberation there, time for replacement. Cables are another area where it’s worth spending a bit extra, particularly with discs, in my experience. I’ve gone for the stainless TRP with compression less housing. Much easier to setup, not least since there’s no/minimal cable stretch. Feed through, tension, snug tight, pump the lever ten times...done.  

A close friend and I were recently discussing hydraulics and why I hadn’t taken that route. I concluded it's more about complication, rather than cost. Sure, there’s no arguing with their refinement, and a well setup hydraulic system can largely be left to its own devices, save for periodic bleeding.  Even so, a cable is more convenient to acquire, especially if something should go pear shaped miles from home/civilisation. Besides, I’m familiar and fond of the TRP Spyre and its marginally more upmarket SLC sibling.   

Since I had to unwrap the Velo Orange Rubbery Bar Tape VELO ORANGE RUBBERY BAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) to perform the cable swap, I took the opportunity to switch to this Ciclovation Grind Touch Grind tape, which superficially, looks almost identical to the Velo Orange.  

To my surprise, density is 3mm, whereas the Velo Orange is 3.5mm but the backing adhesive is superior. A gummy, rather than sticky strip, meaning it’s easier to install and correct, should need arise. It also bodes well, for cable and other replacements, later down the line, when things have weathered a little. Trail distribution also kindly sent me a Lelumia The Beast Trail Light, which boasts a 150lumen day flash and a couple of 100lumen flashing modes, and a 65lumen alt flash.  

All have promise impressive run times- between 4 and 18 hours. Alas, mine’s yert to arrive-seems one was pilfered in the post, so another has been released.  I’ve also received this Topeak Tailux30 USB Rear Light. As the name suggests, it delivers a maximum of 30lumens and three modes, from the twin diodes. 30 hour run time in the flashing mode is also very favourable but only real-world miles will tell.  

Recent years have seen a resurgence in the lumens race, to the point where some lights pump out 450 lumens in daylight running mode. However, I’ve traditionally found 30 lumens potent enough for town, through to semi-rural contexts and adequate for the backroads.  

I’m still fond of the Night Rider Solas and more recently, Ravemen TR30 M Rear Light RAVEMEN TR30M REAR LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), which also uses two diodes. Lumens aren’t the only gauge mind. I’ve found Ravemen CL05 Sensored Rear Light RAVEMEN CL05 SENSORED REAR LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and Its CLO6 sibling RAVEMEN CL06 SENSORED REAR LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) far more visible than numbers alone suggest.    

 

Ursula clearly got jealous, responding with some front brake squeal/judder. Easily rectified with a quick tweak of the pads, straddle wire and some subtle snugging down. I’d given the pads a glaze check-nothing doing, and I knew the rim was relatively clean- squeaky, once I'd given the old girl and thorough sudsy bucket scrub. I also took this opportunity to slot the Torque Covert7 Crank Multitool into the Deore Crank.  

 

Grot, scuzz, gunge, slurry...Whatever your pet name for winter’s slimy cocktail, there’s usually a fair bit that lodges within the cassette, derailleur and ring(s). Especially if you are using a wet chain lube. I got busy with the cassette claw and some neat degreaser, which scooped away the lion’s share of skanky stuff. 

During the cold, darker months, products like Weldtite Jet Blast Degreaser WELDTITE JET BLAST DEGREASER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) are potent, super convenient starters. Strong solvents melt the congealed, oily mess. Agitate with a stiff bristled brush, adding some less intense degreaser, scrub and then rinse with tepid water. Blends, including Muc Off Ludicrous AF require a most sustained marinate. MUC OFF LUDICROUS AF CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

Household washing-up liquids are something I’d generally avoid but are also surprisingly effective. If you must go this route, say on a cassette, whip the wheel out, scrub with the cassette pointing toward the ground. Rinse, first using warm and then cold water. Rinse any splashes from painted, plated, polished, and anodised surfaces, too.  

As many will point out, citrus degreasers are also very aggressive, so take similar precautions, and even on a plated surface, such as a cassette, or chain, don’t exceed 2 minutes before rinsing and drying.   

Then of course, there’s been tube patching, segregating those which are easily repaired and those, which are essentially bin fodder. Patches and vulcanising solution are pivotal to successful salvage. For me, Rema Tip Top are the best going, although I’ve had good results from Hutchinson, as shown in the photo, and Decathlon’s kits have been a pleasant surprise, too.      

 

Tests of Time

Nostalgia is very comforting and there were some genuinely great products and concepts back in the late 80s. Many I recall from the cycling press, read during my otherwise instantly forgettable, and decidedly dubious school career. Some have stood the test of time and remain very relevant, others consigned to history.

Anything dirt based with drop bars obviously grabs my attention. Specialized’s Rock Combo (sadly short-lived) and Muddy Fox’s Trailblazer being two prime examples. Seems I'm not the only fan, either! https://bikesboardsandphotos.wordpress.com/2018/01/21/specialized-rockcombo/ 

I’m not convinced U brakes were an inherently bad idea. They certainly offered considerable stopping prowess.

However, chain stay mounting was more conducive to dry, dusty California. Not the damp, leafy climes more commonly experienced in the UK and Canada. Little wonder why Kona mountain bikes were such a hit in the UK. Compact geometry framesets with sensible clearances. Designs that look current and still perform beautifully today.   

Some saddles fall into the classic narrative. Aside from traditional leather saddles, which has remained a quiet institution among tourists, there’s the Selle Italia Turbo, the Rolls etc. The catalyst for this sudden rush of retrospective was induced by the arrival of Selle San Marco Concor Super Corsa saddle. Tipping the scales at 320g, it’s not the lightest but hardly outlandish, so now sits pride of place on my fixed gear winter/trainer.

I had a Concor on my first fixed-a conversion based around a 501 tubed Raleigh frameset. 

When that frameset died in July ’92, I bought a comparable frameset from a small scale, midlands-based builder. Ported most of the stuff over and headed to London’s East End. University and idealism followed. Come ’94, I’d worn it smooth, the rails a little wobbly where they slotted in the base.

Flogged it to a cash strapped land surveying student for as little as I paid for it (Having bought a luminous yellow Turbo gel from a shop’s bargain bin). Not a bad buy and it matched the frameset’s lurid enamel. Shortly afterward, I’d primarily switched to cross country mountain bike racing and a flyte.

Had a couple of the minimalist, ti railed wonders and got along with them surprisingly well. Back then, saving every last gram, as economically as possible, was the primary focus. Though I keep a keen eye on my machine’s girth, it’s not at comfort’s expense.

That said, I was pleasantly surprised to discover this PRO Stream Off Road Saddle weighs a positively feathery 207g. Surprising, since the rails are stainless steel (Inox) Yes, there’s a bit of carbon involved, and on some levels, a less obvious choice for my Univega. However, I’ve been running the BBB Echelon with good results. Besides, being a mixed terrain, four seasons’ build its perfect for assessing the design’s capabilities and potential limitations. 

Classics aside much technology has improved considerably. Clothing is one area, where materials have become more sophisticated on the one hand but crucially budget and mid-point clothing staples arguably represents better value than ever before. I’ve been quite impressed by these middleweight Prendas Ciclismo Winter Cycling Socks https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/prendas-ciclismo-coolmax-winter-cyc   

Lighting and other, electrical tech are another, prime example. These days it’s difficult to find a poor light, thanks to competition. I’ve been particularly impressed by this Moon Meteor.

Not the most powerful designs (400 lumens steady, 500day flash) but extremely compact and a great companion to my high-power dynamo units. 

A good choice for pared-to-the essentials best/winter bikes.  Intelligent and tuneable designs are another clear trend. Knog Cobber Mid rear Light https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/knog-cobber-mid-rear-light  being one example. At the time of writing, these are at the upper end of the market. However, like most tech, it’s only a matter of time before this technology trickles down. 

Others, such as this See Sense Icon2 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/see-sense-icon-2-rear-light offer these options but are also capable of monitoring road surfaces and a wealth of other information. This can be shared, via their app and theoretically, has the power to shape town planning and improve safety. However, you don’t have to use all these features to appreciate its intelligent design.  

At the other end of the market, this Oxford Ultratorch R75 pumps out an impressive 75 lumens (tops) and so far, decent run times, from a full charge.

There are four modes in total. Three flashing (high, medium and low) modes and my default, flashing.  COB (Chips on Board) technology intensifies output, since you can pop more diodes within the same space. In this instance 24. 

These are fuelled by a lithium polymer cell and the unit meets IP65 for weatherproofing. To date, ours has been swamped with dodgy standing water, silt, spray and similar unmentionables with no issues. Talking of subverting wet stuff, I’ll close with my review of the Raw Prismatic reflective Mud flaps https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/raw-prismatic