Sorting the Small Stuff

Holiday season has been about sorting the small jobs. Some that can be a little fiddlier than first thought, others that subvert trouble, (which would otherwise strike at the least convenient moment). As often happens, one thing led to another. Having popped Ursula back on her hook, I inspected my fixed gear winter/trainer’s TRP Sypre SLC. A quick spin of the wheel and pump of the lever revealed binding pads and a badly frayed able at the TRP caliper’s pinch bolt.  

No deliberation there, time for replacement. Cables are another area where it’s worth spending a bit extra, particularly with discs, in my experience. I’ve gone for the stainless TRP with compression less housing. Much easier to setup, not least since there’s no/minimal cable stretch. Feed through, tension, snug tight, pump the lever ten times...done.  

A close friend and I were recently discussing hydraulics and why I hadn’t taken that route. I concluded it's more about complication, rather than cost. Sure, there’s no arguing with their refinement, and a well setup hydraulic system can largely be left to its own devices, save for periodic bleeding.  Even so, a cable is more convenient to acquire, especially if something should go pear shaped miles from home/civilisation. Besides, I’m familiar and fond of the TRP Spyre and its marginally more upmarket SLC sibling.   

Since I had to unwrap the Velo Orange Rubbery Bar Tape VELO ORANGE RUBBERY BAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) to perform the cable swap, I took the opportunity to switch to this Ciclovation Grind Touch Grind tape, which superficially, looks almost identical to the Velo Orange.  

To my surprise, density is 3mm, whereas the Velo Orange is 3.5mm but the backing adhesive is superior. A gummy, rather than sticky strip, meaning it’s easier to install and correct, should need arise. It also bodes well, for cable and other replacements, later down the line, when things have weathered a little. Trail distribution also kindly sent me a Lelumia The Beast Trail Light, which boasts a 150lumen day flash and a couple of 100lumen flashing modes, and a 65lumen alt flash.  

All have promise impressive run times- between 4 and 18 hours. Alas, mine’s yert to arrive-seems one was pilfered in the post, so another has been released.  I’ve also received this Topeak Tailux30 USB Rear Light. As the name suggests, it delivers a maximum of 30lumens and three modes, from the twin diodes. 30 hour run time in the flashing mode is also very favourable but only real-world miles will tell.  

Recent years have seen a resurgence in the lumens race, to the point where some lights pump out 450 lumens in daylight running mode. However, I’ve traditionally found 30 lumens potent enough for town, through to semi-rural contexts and adequate for the backroads.  

I’m still fond of the Night Rider Solas and more recently, Ravemen TR30 M Rear Light RAVEMEN TR30M REAR LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), which also uses two diodes. Lumens aren’t the only gauge mind. I’ve found Ravemen CL05 Sensored Rear Light RAVEMEN CL05 SENSORED REAR LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and Its CLO6 sibling RAVEMEN CL06 SENSORED REAR LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) far more visible than numbers alone suggest.    

 

Ursula clearly got jealous, responding with some front brake squeal/judder. Easily rectified with a quick tweak of the pads, straddle wire and some subtle snugging down. I’d given the pads a glaze check-nothing doing, and I knew the rim was relatively clean- squeaky, once I'd given the old girl and thorough sudsy bucket scrub. I also took this opportunity to slot the Torque Covert7 Crank Multitool into the Deore Crank.  

 

Grot, scuzz, gunge, slurry...Whatever your pet name for winter’s slimy cocktail, there’s usually a fair bit that lodges within the cassette, derailleur and ring(s). Especially if you are using a wet chain lube. I got busy with the cassette claw and some neat degreaser, which scooped away the lion’s share of skanky stuff. 

During the cold, darker months, products like Weldtite Jet Blast Degreaser WELDTITE JET BLAST DEGREASER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) are potent, super convenient starters. Strong solvents melt the congealed, oily mess. Agitate with a stiff bristled brush, adding some less intense degreaser, scrub and then rinse with tepid water. Blends, including Muc Off Ludicrous AF require a most sustained marinate. MUC OFF LUDICROUS AF CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

Household washing-up liquids are something I’d generally avoid but are also surprisingly effective. If you must go this route, say on a cassette, whip the wheel out, scrub with the cassette pointing toward the ground. Rinse, first using warm and then cold water. Rinse any splashes from painted, plated, polished, and anodised surfaces, too.  

As many will point out, citrus degreasers are also very aggressive, so take similar precautions, and even on a plated surface, such as a cassette, or chain, don’t exceed 2 minutes before rinsing and drying.   

Then of course, there’s been tube patching, segregating those which are easily repaired and those, which are essentially bin fodder. Patches and vulcanising solution are pivotal to successful salvage. For me, Rema Tip Top are the best going, although I’ve had good results from Hutchinson, as shown in the photo, and Decathlon’s kits have been a pleasant surprise, too.      

 

The Great Escape

I’ve no doubt that cinematic institution will feature over the festive telly season (if it hasn't already) but in this instance I’m referring to 125psi roaring from my Ilpompino’s front tyre with frightening haste while piloting it through a series of twisty, freezing, mulch strewn back roads at 23mph…Remaining composed, I drew to a halt and concluded shouldering said fixer that final mile home was best, especially since it’s 29mm rear was just succumbing to similar fate.

Both sported Kevlar belts (1 and 2.5mm thick, respectively) and were defeated by two shards of indicator lens burrowing vindictively inside. Some will argue this stab vest staple is now looking decidedly long in the tooth, superseded in technical terms by Aramid. However, in my experience puncture resistance is by degrees-roll over that nine-inch nail with your name etched into its head and belt composition becomes pretty academic.

Wafer thin butyl certainly didn’t help, although fortuitously their pinpricks were easily repaired from the comfort of one’s kitchen. Rule of thumb suggests a new tube, the injured parties kept as spares. Therefore, I introduced a 35mm Kenda thorn-resistant “builders hose” to the 29mm rear and a common or garden 25mm CST up front. Nonetheless, continuing the thrifty theme, I’ve ordered industrial sized replenishments of patches and solution.

Lo and behold, Moore Large (www.todayscyclist.co.uk) has generously sent me these 32mm Kenda Bitumen reflective. 85psi and 60tpi iron-cap casings indicate rugged, rather than racy persona, though hopefully this will put paid to dead-of night deflation paranoia and see us cruising through spring and a fair while beyond. However, credible comment requires a good few hundred miles in varying conditions, so I’ll reserve judgement until January’s swansong.

Christmas usually presents copious remit for serious fettling and I’ve decided to resurrect some deep-section Miche hoops. Originally shelved on account of recurrent pinch flatting, there’s no indication of structural damage, thus I’m convinced that employing Effetto Mariposa rim tape (primarily intended to convert standard hp wire ons to tubeless service) will resolve this (as it has on my Univega’s spare Weinnman/NX30 front hoop).

Said holidays are equally conducive to reflection and moreover trying something different. It’d been a while since I’d seen some grass roots cyclo cross racing and Coventry Road Club’s 60^{th annual} meet at Kenilworth common proved too good an opportunity to pass up. Ironically, the common is a nature reserve but CRC secured special dispensation, part of which requires riders compete on UCI legal 700c ‘cross mounts. http://www.uci.ch/Modules/BUILTIN/getObject.asp?MenuId=&ObjTypeCode=FILE&type=FILE&id=NTI0MDY&LangId=1

Such stipulations don’t apply to the under 10/12s who are welcome on mountain and even balance bikes. However, anyone inclined to sample the grinding climbs and swooping technical descents beforehand risk having their entries voided. While enjoying phenomenal continental popularity, it is oft forgotten that ‘cross had a similar post war following here, riders attending on old pared to the essentials touring bikes with hand-me-down components.

Fast forward several decades and a more glamorous, dare we say, continental image, the inclusive, accessible spirit remains phenomenally strong. First up came the seemingly irrepressible under 10’s whose competitive vigor was tempered with a refreshing sense of discipline and genuine sportsmanship.

Despite relaxed rulings and the odd smattering of fancy dress, most thundered past on junior ‘cross builds. Occasional, slow speed tumble with terra firma aside, mishaps were thankfully conspicuous by their absence. This theme remained consistent throughout the under 12’s event, entrants negotiated the senior laps with commendable panache, although by this stage in the morning's proceedings, damp, nagging chill had permeated my exposed fingers, inducing unwelcome camera shake.

Mick Ives provided commentary for the main event, which progressed at a frenetic pace, meticulous organisation/intelligent marshaling optimising rider and spectator safety. However, one rider sustained sufficiently serious injury to require air ambulance rescue, illustrating that even these standards of event management cannot entirely eradicate risk.  

Hmm, I’m getting a sudden desire to organise an altogether different category of ‘cross racing, requiring entrants present on rigid mountain bikes with dropped bars…Fancy collaborating? Drop me a line: roadpathtoenlightenment@gmail.com

   

Double Trouble (Boom Bang a Bang)

Spring has apparently sprung early and in an effort to save money on our battle-scarred infrastructure, farmers seem encouraged to layer the roads in thick slimy dung, topped off with hedge clippings. This particularly conspiratorial brew is conducive to the dreaded hiss-even with 1.75 section mtb rubber and those otherwise ultra dependable thorn resistant tubes. Said concoction also serves as timely reminder that no matter how technically endowed your hoops, should you meet that thorn/nail/rock/pothole with your name on it, you will come unstuck. Mercifully, it took several miles for the offending sharp to pierce the tyre casing, serenading me with a slow, yet audible rush of air as we returned to base. With puncture season officially open, there appears no end to freeloaders expecting to drop their wounded butyl at my house for while u wait, free of charge repair (!). Yes, I served in a bike shop (where I learned to read people and their intentions in the blink of an eye), yes I am of a helpful disposition but I am not a charity, here for the convenience of others. Capiche! Now, this is entirely different from coming to the aid of someone stricken by the roadside-most of us have experienced the kindness of a passing rider(s) and hopefully reciprocated at least once during our cycling careers. Things happen for a reason. I didn’t subscribe to this philosophical (some might say, fatalist) state in my teens and twenties but it’s one I’ve assumed with time. Such has seen me review the fleets’ toolkit-specifically pumps, tubes and patch kits to ensure they were all suitably stocked and more importantly in good working order. Afterall, spare inner tubes and patches are of little consequence several miles from home with crusty vulcanising solution, wheezy pump and/or CO2 inflator. Having exhausted my supply of spares, the patch kit(s) came out to play. Experience suggests taking manufacturer claims with a pinch of salt, leaving glue/less types overnight provides the best success rates. I’ve taken to pressing them in situ using soft-jawed clothes pegs. Failing to follow this rule saw a good quality example of the glue-less breed lift after a few hours but then, I’ve never put my faith in this particular genre so reverted to the suppler, feathered edge variety.

To the uninitiated, slime-filled self-healing tubes sound heaven-sent but are a recipe for a disgusting sticky mess in the event of rolling over that sharp. Most sealants seem to have a finite life before turning chalky or randomly spewing green goo from the valves. That said; I’ve danced a jig having found one in the bottom of a pannier when the long walk home looked imminent.
Wednesday bore witness to the transformation of last week’s tatty tandem frameset. Thirty-five minutes sustained effort in the blast cabinet had consumed the barnacle thick external rot, revealing sound metal with quite extensive residual acne. Common to popular misconception, this pitting isn’t necessarily down to the blast media or operator skill but demonstrates how corrosion leeches into the host metal when neglected for any time. A call advising of this and some minor dents saw the owner decline additional preparatory work so Graham set about making good the worst areas before applying and baking the chromate. The customer chose to retain the original gold livery, albeit with a sparkle lacquer topcoat evocative of the 70s… bell bottoms, industrial strife, Eurovision and orange bathrooms anyone? Saddle rails, pedals and braking components were also passed through the mini blaster and emerged looking remarkably fresh, ready for gloss black.
Mocking and cold in black and gold I mused, capturing a few further shots and contemplating my falling blood sugar. Every colour has its own unique characteristics and gold has a tendency to bobble-if this isn’t tackled prior to oven curing it results in visible imperfections. Yellow is another tricky livery thanks to its pigment but attempting to compensate by applying thicker coats sees it emerge from the oven literally hanging from its host like runny custard. In this situation, there’s no option but to leave it marinating in the enzyme tank overnight before blasting to bare metal and starting from scratch come the morning.