Filth=Fixed FGG

 

 

Winter sees me alternate between Ursula and my beloved fixed gear winter/trainer. Both have been with me for 26 and 19 years, respectively. Ursula wears the spikes when it's plunging below zero, or when I’m fancying exploring some trails beyond the beaten path. The fixed is frisky, fun and the simple transmission fares much better in winter’s slurry. The cyclo cross geometry means its nimble and fun but not skittish.  

I wouldn’t ride a track bike, even if drilled for a front brake as a winter mount due to inappropriate geometry, lack of clearance for mudguards and more importantly wider section rubber. This is the V2, with 120mm track spacing, the MK1 was markedly similar, save for 135mm spacing. 120mm means any track type hub slots straight in without any considerations, or mods.  

The 135mm version allowed hub gears, or indeed, single speed mountain bike hubs. There’s a lot to be said in favour of both (indeed, On One returned with an evolution called the Pompetamine designed to be run with discs and hub gearing). I toyed with one before getting Denise, although would’ve gone for a lighter (carbon) fork.   

I had been browsing the Condor website and was looking at framesets. The heyday of fixed's popularity was 15 years ago, which means frames have become less ubiquitous, but this also has a knock-on effect pricewise. Spa Cycles Audax Mono is probably the most practical, contemporary off the peg framesets for general road duties.  

It features Reynolds 725 tubes, rear facing ends, carbon forks, mudguard and four-point carrier mounts and drillings for dual pivot brake callipers. Kona's Paddy Wagon, albeit the earlier models 2006/7 being my preference Kona Paddy Wagon 06 review | BikeRadar Deda Cro-moly frameset, two sets of bottle mounts, guard and carrier mounts, clearance for 700x28c-32mm if you were prepared to forgo mudguards.   

Pearson Touche. Ridgeback Solo World and Dawes Mono were all good off the peg, complete build options from a few years back. Reynolds 520 might not set pulses ablaze, but it's a decent Cro-moly that's well suited to workhorse duties without having a lumbering tank-like ride quality.    

I’m presently running 28mm Schwalbe one365 at the rear, a 30mm WTB Exposure up front WTB Exposure Road Tubeless Tyre | cycling-not-racing  both are engaging yet still handle very well in wet, slippery conditions and the ability to slow by holding back gently against the cranks, rather than applying the brake ups the control in situations where engaging a brake might result in going rubber up.  

Saddle Back also sent me this Feedback Sports Compact Fixed Torque Driver, which is a tiny, pocket-sized torque wrench fixed to 5nm comprising of 4,5, 6 and T25 bits, which fit beautifully into the composite driver handle. Being ¼ inch design, it's also compatible with a wealth of other sizes, so can be built up to suit your needs, which is another definite plus. There's an extension pole, for those contexts where you might need a little more leverage. Bits are fashioned from S2 steel, the torque driver is reckoned fully accurate to +/4 for up to 3,000 cycles and the limited lifetime warrantee inspires further confidence.  Suffice to say it's unobtrusive enough and accompanying me on pretty much every ride   

 

I've primarily stuck to riding the fixed, since winter's slush and slurry is all consuming and the simple drivetrain keeps things simple and economic. There's also the more direct sense of connection. This has been said to the point where it's become cliche' and arguably meaningless. However, there's a sense in which you must predict changes in gradient, bends and other factors more readily than a geared configuration, which is more forgiving of misjudgement. In this regard, the ride and that union between rider and machine becomes closer, more direct. Not that I'd want to go everywhere on a fixed, rather it's a configuration I'm very fond of. 

The only thing to keep in check is the chain tension- too tight equals noisy and inefficient coupled with more rapid drivetrain wear. Too slack and it’ll run the risk of jumping off and jamming-usually at the least convenient moment. Chain tugs are a definite help here. I’ve had to switch from the Genetic to a discrete but seemingly effective pair (bought on Ali Express a year, or two back) since they were impeding the Topeak Uni rack’s hardware.  I didn’t want to stress the screws, or worse still, the frame’s eyelet threads.   

This also proved an ideal opportunity (read no excuse) to give the bike a well-deserved wash n’ wax clean-purging grit and gloop, while leaving a protective wax layer behind. During winter, at least when the gritting lorries have been out in force, it's best to give bikes a cold-water rinse first. Hot will simply accelerate the caustic process.  

Just organic muck in this instance, hence a quick blast of higher strength, custom mixed bike wash to dissolve the ingrained grot, while I’m filling those buckets.   Since we’re here, a lot of people think high foam (though visually convincing) is the most effective. However, formulas that cling to the host surfaces are more effective and get my vote every time. I've switched to Peaty's Link Lube Premium, since I was running low on the Wolf ToothWolf Tooth WT-1 All Conditions Chain Lub | cycling-not-racing

I’d also had this PDW (Portland Design Works) Radbot rear light expire- seems to be a corroded switch-I've tried flushing it through with water displacer but to no avail. I also had the back expire on another long-term favourite-Topeak Redlite Mega. I’ve got busy with the superglue and left that curing overnight, so hoping that sorts it, even for the short term, while I hunt down a replacement.    

I find there's a temptation to sleepwalk into the New Year, so prefer to keep structure and busy, albeit at a more moderate pace, enjoying the sense of peace and calm, but drawing parallels with riding fixed, maintaining momentum.  

The Emperor's New Forks

Plenty of excitement-of the right and wrong sort this past fortnight; continued progress with the children’s stories, a couple of hours spent interviewing Austin Vince (www.austinvince.com) leading up to his adventure travel film festival on 12-14^th August. http://www.adventuretravelfilmfestival.com/

Then along came tyres that would not mount, mechs that swung too far and of course; a “Forking hell! My blades/steerer are divorcing!!!” drama.

Thankfully; this was all sorted with a call to upgrade bikes www.upgradebikes.co.uk. Two minutes later, Rory sorted me a set of Kinesis DC37 at a very compassionate price. Two days later, they arrived at my door suitably boxed to fox the notorious parcel destroyers, along with a brand-spanking new hacksaw.

I knew I had a packet fresh, replacement blade “somewhere” but rather than wasting time, simply ordered another saw, specifically for guillotining steerer tubes. Some will argue this is unnecessary expense; most of us replace forks every-so-often.

Maybe so, but £6 pales into insignificance compared to a badly cut tube, or operator injury. Keeping two sets of wire snips is also good practice; one for everyday jobs-cutting zip ties, plastic housing, wire fencing to length etc and another specifically for inner wires-they’ll repay their investment countless times over.

Back to the forks; these are a keenly priced and relatively lightweight composite set with an alloy steerer, disc mount and 45 degree rake. Check out a full review in Seven Day Cyclist. http://www.sevendaycyclist.com/kinesis-dc37-disc-fork

Kinesis frames and forks are well made and this one seems particularly good for a budget fork; countering the perpetuating myth that composites go floppy with age, or should be arbitrarily replaced at specific intervals. Personally, I’m inclined to inspect regularly and, in the event of a serious tumble, consult a specialist and make an informed decision.

Bottom line, I’ll pension off anything dubious. The cost implications of new teeth, time off work, or the prospect of having shards of composite plucked from my derriere by an overworked and underpaid A&E nurse far exceeds that of a replacement post/handlebar/fork.

I was tempted to plump for their Crosslight. These are a slightly quirky, industrial looking 6061 set, which I’ve used to good effect on a cross inspired mtb mongrel. There's  only 70g separating them from the Dc37. 

However, while I’d describe the Crosslight as direct, rather than harsh; carbon blades translate into a more compliant ride. Ideal opportunity for headset replacement-another FSA, from the comfort of one’s kitchen, naturally. 

Talking of comfort, I am largely a MAMIL (Middle aged man in Lycra) for point to point blasts; though I’ve always had a soft spot for “messenger” longs, which are extremely practical for spirited riding, yet more suave, dare we say, socially appropriate sans bike.

Price is usually a good indicator; although I have three particular favourites are at each end of the spectrum (£25-£75). Given this backdrop, I was decidedly disappointed by another top drawer set commanding the lion’s share of £100. 

No denying their appeal sans saddle but the cut saw them ascending my thighs faster than an 80’s Columbian climber. Could just be a poor liner/short combo, so I’ll persevere for another 100miles or so before passing comment proper.

Elsewhere, I’d been eager to get my sweaty little mitts on tom-tom’s bandit action cam for some time, attracted by its spec and promise of user-friendly editing.

Suggestion that action cams, regardless of quality are serious film-making tools is misinformed. Limited focal length and sound recording quality are the most obvious limiters but they are a useful way of recording the highs n’ lows of a ride, broadcasting short, first-look promotional pieces on social media channels.

Convergence; crudely the adoption of SLR cameras for film-making and we can now edit footage without having access to professional editing suites. However, as Austin Vince pointed out during our interview; the grammar of television-the way in which stories are told remains unchanged and must be mastered first.

I’ve seen several “Uncle Bobs” produce abysmal wedding footage using completely stock, entry Level DSLRS in movie mode. Undeterred, I’m going to learn this language at my own pace, while having some uncomplicated fun with the Bandit…

Makeover Magic: The Ilpompino's New Clothes

Sometimes deadlines are like a slow but consistently burning fuse. Having caught up following last weeks’ IT crisis, I headed off to Maldon Shot Blasting & Powder Coating to witness and document my frames’ transformation stage by stage. 

After the usual pleasantries, conversation turned to other enticing projects booked with them including lugged n’ brazed 531 frames from the early 1990s and various classic car shells/chassis awaiting blast and/or structural repair.

Chris examined the Ilpompino’s factory livery and decided it was best left soaking in their methyl chloride tank prior to blasting. Sometimes, depending on the existing paint, it’s possible to skip straight to the blast cabinet.

Once the active ingredient in over-the-counter stripping products; methyl chloride is a nasty carcinogenic, so now the preserve of controlled contexts. This is diluted with water to prevent evaporation but agitating the depths unleashes an unmistakable, pungent odour.  After fifteen minutes marinating in the stagnant looking chemical soup, Chris dons rubber gauntlets and delves deep.

My frame emerges seconds’ later, almost completely bare save for some localised residual silty paint. Passed through the glass bead cabinet and several minutes’ intensive tickling reveals a bare, dimpled surface; it also confirms my initial suspicions of surface pitting where the salt monster had nibbled the right chainstay.

This doesn’t dictate Metafil, or similar specialist fillers but Chris gently sands it flat before masking and plugging threaded sections. Critics of powder coating cite that achieving two or more colour effects requires applying 2pac or similar wet spray paints atop. This is relatively labour intensive, costly too...

Given this backdrop, a two-tone powder coat finish sounds a bit risky but Chris and Graham seem completely comfortable with the commission.

Regardless of family, all paints have unique characteristics according to their colours/pigments. My French blue/grey effect leads Graham to introduce a thinner, corrosion inhibiting zinc phosphate primer, which won’t risk imperfections in the top coats.  

Midway through this formative stage my Sony Alpha SLR camera body gets the sulks. Despite frantic efforts to re-dial settings, it refuses to deliver three frames per second required. Hastily diverting to my trusty NEX5 ensures there’s minimal loss of footage.

Confident of even coverage, “Izzie” is passed through the curing oven for fifteen minutes and our attentions turn to locating French blue (5024) and a complimentary  grey.  A hearty cheer erupts, signalling both polyester powders are in stock and in plentiful quantity.

Graham starts by loading the 5024, confirms a good flow rate by depressing the gun a few times and returns to the curing oven. Moments later, the frame is earthed and ready to receive the colour coat. Graham covers the main triangle under a blanket of pale blue before checking the powder is heaped uniformly throughout. Two affirmative nods and it returns to their their curing oven for ten minutes at 200 degrees.

Conversation meanders to the frame’s history, how I came to acquire it and its significance to me. Having returned to the oven, we discover gallons of molten frame preserve racing from the vent holes and bottom bracket shell...pooling  on the concrete floor.

Mercifully, this hasn’t contaminated the colour coat and can be deftly dismissed but serves to illustrate the importance of warning your frame builder or spray shop, should you suspect a frame has something oily sloshing around inside.

The boys take it all in their good humoured stride, blowing the frame through with compressed air. Demon purged and our next dilemma is whether to start the grey as a solid, or gradually fade it in atop the blue.

Solid effects involve masking, which in this context, risks permanent “tan lines”; so we take the latter route. Unlike wet sprays, powders can be blown into new shapes, or reused. Meticulous in their approach, Graham revises this three times before progressing round the rear triangle.

Moments pass, tension mounts as his eyes painstakingly scan every last particle. To my relief he nods again before spiriting it into the oven once more.  Finally, my beloved frame is given an acrylic clear coat, which adds further protection, while accentuating its rich, glossy lustre.

Right, time to introduce some fresh home brewed frame preserve and helicopter tape to abrasion prone points; then I’ll build it up before October’s through.

Heartfelt thanks go to the team at Maldon Shot blasting and Powder Coating for undertaking this transformation www. http://ctc-powder-coating.co.uk/.

Trevor (Father and MSBC MD) has asked me to point out that cost for this kind of specialist effect varies wildly depending upon several factors. This includes colour choice(s), post blast remedial works and whether decals/other detailing are required.