Filth=Fixed FGG

 

 

Winter sees me alternate between Ursula and my beloved fixed gear winter/trainer. Both have been with me for 26 and 19 years, respectively. Ursula wears the spikes when it's plunging below zero, or when I’m fancying exploring some trails beyond the beaten path. The fixed is frisky, fun and the simple transmission fares much better in winter’s slurry. The cyclo cross geometry means its nimble and fun but not skittish.  

I wouldn’t ride a track bike, even if drilled for a front brake as a winter mount due to inappropriate geometry, lack of clearance for mudguards and more importantly wider section rubber. This is the V2, with 120mm track spacing, the MK1 was markedly similar, save for 135mm spacing. 120mm means any track type hub slots straight in without any considerations, or mods.  

The 135mm version allowed hub gears, or indeed, single speed mountain bike hubs. There’s a lot to be said in favour of both (indeed, On One returned with an evolution called the Pompetamine designed to be run with discs and hub gearing). I toyed with one before getting Denise, although would’ve gone for a lighter (carbon) fork.   

I had been browsing the Condor website and was looking at framesets. The heyday of fixed's popularity was 15 years ago, which means frames have become less ubiquitous, but this also has a knock-on effect pricewise. Spa Cycles Audax Mono is probably the most practical, contemporary off the peg framesets for general road duties.  

It features Reynolds 725 tubes, rear facing ends, carbon forks, mudguard and four-point carrier mounts and drillings for dual pivot brake callipers. Kona's Paddy Wagon, albeit the earlier models 2006/7 being my preference Kona Paddy Wagon 06 review | BikeRadar Deda Cro-moly frameset, two sets of bottle mounts, guard and carrier mounts, clearance for 700x28c-32mm if you were prepared to forgo mudguards.   

Pearson Touche. Ridgeback Solo World and Dawes Mono were all good off the peg, complete build options from a few years back. Reynolds 520 might not set pulses ablaze, but it's a decent Cro-moly that's well suited to workhorse duties without having a lumbering tank-like ride quality.    

I’m presently running 28mm Schwalbe one365 at the rear, a 30mm WTB Exposure up front WTB Exposure Road Tubeless Tyre | cycling-not-racing  both are engaging yet still handle very well in wet, slippery conditions and the ability to slow by holding back gently against the cranks, rather than applying the brake ups the control in situations where engaging a brake might result in going rubber up.  

Saddle Back also sent me this Feedback Sports Compact Fixed Torque Driver, which is a tiny, pocket-sized torque wrench fixed to 5nm comprising of 4,5, 6 and T25 bits, which fit beautifully into the composite driver handle. Being ¼ inch design, it's also compatible with a wealth of other sizes, so can be built up to suit your needs, which is another definite plus. There's an extension pole, for those contexts where you might need a little more leverage. Bits are fashioned from S2 steel, the torque driver is reckoned fully accurate to +/4 for up to 3,000 cycles and the limited lifetime warrantee inspires further confidence.  Suffice to say it's unobtrusive enough and accompanying me on pretty much every ride   

 

I've primarily stuck to riding the fixed, since winter's slush and slurry is all consuming and the simple drivetrain keeps things simple and economic. There's also the more direct sense of connection. This has been said to the point where it's become cliche' and arguably meaningless. However, there's a sense in which you must predict changes in gradient, bends and other factors more readily than a geared configuration, which is more forgiving of misjudgement. In this regard, the ride and that union between rider and machine becomes closer, more direct. Not that I'd want to go everywhere on a fixed, rather it's a configuration I'm very fond of. 

The only thing to keep in check is the chain tension- too tight equals noisy and inefficient coupled with more rapid drivetrain wear. Too slack and it’ll run the risk of jumping off and jamming-usually at the least convenient moment. Chain tugs are a definite help here. I’ve had to switch from the Genetic to a discrete but seemingly effective pair (bought on Ali Express a year, or two back) since they were impeding the Topeak Uni rack’s hardware.  I didn’t want to stress the screws, or worse still, the frame’s eyelet threads.   

This also proved an ideal opportunity (read no excuse) to give the bike a well-deserved wash n’ wax clean-purging grit and gloop, while leaving a protective wax layer behind. During winter, at least when the gritting lorries have been out in force, it's best to give bikes a cold-water rinse first. Hot will simply accelerate the caustic process.  

Just organic muck in this instance, hence a quick blast of higher strength, custom mixed bike wash to dissolve the ingrained grot, while I’m filling those buckets.   Since we’re here, a lot of people think high foam (though visually convincing) is the most effective. However, formulas that cling to the host surfaces are more effective and get my vote every time. I've switched to Peaty's Link Lube Premium, since I was running low on the Wolf ToothWolf Tooth WT-1 All Conditions Chain Lub | cycling-not-racing

I’d also had this PDW (Portland Design Works) Radbot rear light expire- seems to be a corroded switch-I've tried flushing it through with water displacer but to no avail. I also had the back expire on another long-term favourite-Topeak Redlite Mega. I’ve got busy with the superglue and left that curing overnight, so hoping that sorts it, even for the short term, while I hunt down a replacement.    

I find there's a temptation to sleepwalk into the New Year, so prefer to keep structure and busy, albeit at a more moderate pace, enjoying the sense of peace and calm, but drawing parallels with riding fixed, maintaining momentum.  

Spares, Upgrades & Resurrections

 

Having been out green laning and generally enjoying Ursula’s new configuration, it occurred to me I needed to bolt a disc rotor to the spare Ryde/XT rear wheel along with a cassette. My intention has always been to keep two sets of wheels prepped, one with cross country mountain bike rubber, the second shod with spikes for when winter turns decidedly slippery.  

 

Luckily, I’d a six bolt 160mm rotor and mounting hardware sat in their storage pot and just whipped everything in situ. I opted for a new 12-25 cassette having spotted some NOS offered at a very tempting price. Slot that aboard the freehub with a light lick of assembly grease, snug tight, slot in a skewer and mount the Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro, ready for when the weather turns.  

  

The Oxford Mint Assembly Grease continues to impress with its corrosion inhibiting and seemingly tenacious properties. A few months down the line, these cleats released easily and without need for replenishment. Cleats and hardware lead hard lives and are easily neglected. Over the last thirty years, I’ve only had to drill two sets out although this was also down to dog eared threads, rather than corrosion alone. Galvanic corrosion (where two metals of different parentage e.g. steel and aluminium alloy, or steel and titanium chemically bond together) can prove more problematic.  

 

In some respects, titanium compatibility was already being tested, courtesy of Ursula’s bottom bracket cups, but I also found myself with a seat post conundrum, wanting to switch the fixed gear winter/trainer back to the SQR Carradry. I’d received this 6 litre Topeak Backloader, which was pride of place on Denise’s USE XCE post, saving a few grams, compared with the venerable SQR Tour.  Grams aside, though I love Cotton Duck, it’s trickier to keep clean, at least compared with the Carradry series, which can be wiped down with a damp cloth. 

  

Contenders were Torus titanium Layback model. This is made from plain gauge 3AL-2.5V tube, has 15 degrees of layback and is 350mm long. There’s an inline version too, for time trialists and others who want to be positioned directly over the bottom bracket for optimal power transfer. My default, as I’ve said before. Then of course, there were the boingers. I had a Redshift Sports, the Thudbuster ST G3TESTED: CANE CREEK THUDBUSTER ST SEATPOST that seemed ideal candidates-similar weight and travel. This would add a little extra comfort without too much added heft.  

 

The combined weight of SQR luggage, mount and post was around that of the Topeak Super Tourist DX and the MTX Trunk bag…Decision made, I plumped for the G1, switched the Ritchey WCS perch over, applied some Zefal tape where the SQR clamps would rest against the post. Nylon straps from other luggage had worn through the black anodising at one localised spot and I didn’t want further erosion. I’d bought some new stainless-steel fasteners for the block since they were inexpensive. No sense going this far, only for fastener fatigue to strike at the least convenient moment.   

 

Having slid the SQR block in situ, I introduced some Mint Assembly Grease to the fasteners, then snugged these down. Post out, I delivered a quick blast of waxy corrosion inhibitor inside the seat tube, since opportunity presented. A final light coating of grease to the Cane Creek and I slid everything in situ. At this point I discovered too little space between SQR luggage and Gravel Hugger Guard. Hmm...  

 

In the zone, adrenalin flowing and overriding hunger, I decided this Axiom Oceanwave City + AXIOM OCEANWAVE CITY+ SEAT BAG | cycling-not-racing was the way forward. Where’d I put the mount...To my surprise, I’d fitted it to the rails of Ursula’s Ergon SR All Road Men’s Saddle Ergon SR All Road Men’s Saddle | cycling-not-racing . Switched over and fixed gear specific tooling, tubes and spares transferred to the Axiom, I decided it was time to quit while ahead.         

  

I noted some light abrasion damage to the underside of the Carradry bag, so covered this with some high-quality, very stretchy, strong, and sticky Duct tape, nipping any further potential deterioration in the bud. Black also complimented the original area, so not a glaringly obvious repair.  

 

With temperatures beginning to tumble and conclusions reached regarding the Madison Trail Gloves, I’ve been grateful for these Gore Wear C5 Gore Tex Thermix Gloves. Black might not be the most obvious colour given the season but ultra-practical I every other respect. These are a thin pile design for dexterity, wind, waterproof and breathable, which sounds like Nirvana but as ever, real world, potentially snowy miles on and indeed, off-road will reveal more.   

 

I’ve been defaulting to the Wolf Tooth WT-1 All Conditions Chain Lube  Wolf Tooth WT-1 All Conditions Chain Lub | cycling-not-racing for the last few months and have run the first bottle dry, so will be interesting to see how long the second lasts through winter. One the main benefits aside from durability, is that it is self-cleansing, so hopefully this will extend chain and ultimately drivetrain life without undue involvement on my part. Right, I’ll close here with my review of the WTB Exposure Road Tubeless Tyre WTB Exposure Road Tubeless Tyre | cycling-not-racing