Revisions, Replacements & Baggage

 

Changes for change's sake and indirectly “adding to the pile” is a temptation I fight hard. Anecdotally, I’m not the only one vulnerable to this urge…I’d acquired a Tiagra long-reach dual pivot brake calliper for the Holdsworth. It looked to offer superior rigidity and therefore, stopping prowess compared to a Tektro R38. It also meant I could complete the revamp in one run, should the XLC unit prove too short. I was also relieved to discover the steerers were identical lengths, so my measuring was reliable. This means there’s no call to prune the new steerer.   

 

One inch Star Fangled Nut unearthed, I pondered a small round file, rather than a drill and 8mm bit to widen the rear crown drilling so it will accept a recessed brake bolt.  

 

I reasoned it was quicker to go slow. You can always shave a little more off, you can’t put metal back. Impatience is perilous at this stage. I added a drop of Muc-Off Wet Lube MUC-OFF WET LUBE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) to the bit and commenced at a moderate speed. A few minutes later and periodic checking, the recessed bolt slid in beautifully. Relieved, I fitted the Tiagra, which confirmed I needed a longer reach than the XLC. On a roll, I installed a new SFN and ended the session there, while I was ahead, psychologically and otherwise. Theoretically, it's just a matter of switching the crown race and removing a spacer or two. 

 

While on this search and rescue mission, I unearthed Topeak Alien ii multitool. 

  

One of the best pocket workshop models I’ve used and with functions, such as ring spanners missing from most contemporary multi tools. These also lock, for convenience and efficiency. The Passport CDW PASSPORT CDW MULTITOOL | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) is a very charming homage. It’s joined the fixed gear winter/trainer’s Carradice Super C Rack Bag.  The long-serving Carradice is made from “Cotton duck” and, since it attaches via four Velcro straps, so arguably a universal, possibly future-proof fit. I’m a huge fan of Carradice luggage-the SQR range of bags, which are particularly good for day riding, if you didn’t want, or like racks and the host bike had a metal post.  

 

I have the Super C SQR Tour and the Carradry SQR bag. Both will manage a whopping 10 kilos, but the Carradry is the way forward, if you’re looking to venture off road since it's incredibly easy to wipe clean. Being suspended away from the bike, they’re a safer bet for those electricals I was referring to earlier.    

 

However, when heavily laden, the high centre of gravity becomes apparent-especially when climbing out of the saddle on a windy day.  I’d ported the Cycology bar bagCycology See Me Pink Handlebar Bag | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) over to the fixed gear winter/trainer’s Genetic Riser 4 GENETIC DRISER 4 HANDLEBARS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) for a bit.

 

Rack top bags are very convenient but even those that have a lined base should not host cameras, or other sensitive electrical equipment, since vibrations are transmitted from the rack-regardless of material. I’ve noticed some percussion when riding across washboard tarmac with the Carradice en tow.   

 

Hot on the heels of Ursula’s chain were the brake pads. I’d thought the slight squeal might be attributable to glaze, but the pads were worn close to 1mm. Not surprising, given sustained exposure to flooding and generally adverse wintry conditions. During the treasure hunt, I’d discovered two sets of Disco Brakes, so took this as my cue Disco Disc Brake Pads and Wavey Rotors | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), so took a post-ride opportunity to switch.  

 

Pads, regardless of whether rim, or disc brake can wear very quickly and beyond a certain point, will eat into rotors and rims- much like a worn chain will chomp through rings, derailleurs, and cassettes.  I’m also impressed by the Carbon Cycles SPD pattern cleats, which engage and release very snappily with Shimano and homage designs and are proving refreshingly durable.       

  

Talking of one-does-all, Steve has replaced his recently deceased Dawes Galaxy with Surly’s Long Haul Trucker. It’s always been one of those “from the crate” Beasts of Burden that always fired my imagination. 26-inch wheels might be a little dated nowadays but there’s still plenty of choice tyre and rim-wise and the frame has sufficient clearance for 26x2.1 sans guards. A generous wheelbase and double-butted 4130 main triangle bodes well for stability when hauling the kitchen sink.  Yes, I’d certainly give one a home, if space allowed, although, I’d probably indulge in a Grappler too. You know, to keep it company... Ah, hedge clipping season's in full swing... 

      

Plans & Prep

 

Having done some extensive overhauling and replacement of Ursula’s cockpit and drivetrain, September’s subtle changes encouraged me to scrutinise my fixed gear winter/trainer’s drivetrain components. All seemed basically sound, although the KMC Z510 HX chain was showing signs of fatigue and due its pension, so I switched it for this blue KMC S1. 

A cheap, but hopefully cheerful and relatively quiet replacement. Time and miles will tell. A slightly cheaper chain replaced more frequently is always better than a neglected top draw model, which will chew through more expensive components, or fail, at a critical moment.  

I returned 3,000 miles from the Z510, though I will be suitably pleased to get 1200 from the S1. Not that I’m powerfully built but I don’t run a rear brake, moderating speed by holding off against the cranks. In any case, I have a beefy, half-link HL710 BMX model waiting in the wings, when the S1 starts losing its edge. Back in the late 80’s, when I was riding conversions, 3/32 Sedis and beveled sprockets were my defaults and performed reliably enough, compensating for any slight chain line imprecision. I much prefer beefier track types though.  

Tension is another important consideration. Too little and the chain’s sagging, possibly coming off, sending you down. Too much and aside from being brutally inefficient, accelerating wear also runs the risk of breakage.  

Since we’re on the subject, tough fixed drivetrains are simple, don’t forget to give the sprocket threads a helping of stiff grease periodically to prevent them seizing. They’re easily forgotten but get basted in a fair amount of caustic, slimy cack. 

A few rides in, I then discovered some slop in the Fixed G hub-checked the obvious stuff-track nuts were snug, ditto the sprocket and spacers. Play was definitely coming from the sealed hub bearings. These are Japanese EZO bearing (6000 size) so not something I had readily to hand.  

For the time being, I’ve switched to the Halo deep-section Aerorage wheel, until such time as their replacements arrive and I have time to perform the op. Cursory inspection suggests some specialist tooling, including circlip pliers, which will otherwise be used infrequently, so I may well outsource this to a good local wheel builder while I pursue other projects. 

 

Noticed some minor cuts in the long-serving 35mm section Schwalbe Marathon GT tyre casing. Easily sorted with a quick drop of superglue. Prevention is always more convenient than cure. On a roll, cleats were replaced. The existing fasteners had turned arthritic, though stopped short of seized. Two short blasts of penetrant/freeing oil and trusty 4mm Allen key secured their release. I added a lick of Peaty’s Bicycle Assembly Grease to the fasteners.PEATY'S BICYCLE ASSEMBLY GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)   

 

Otherwise, I'm making the very most of ambient conditions, enjoying the Teenage Dream’s spirited charms. 

 

The Ravemen CR600 is proving a good companion, albeit with short run times in the highest, 600-lumen setting. Comes with the territory, i.e. typical of compact, high-power lights. That said, output quality is better than I’ve come to expect from mid-power models. Holes and similar hazards are easily spotted from a decent distance and at a reasonable pace.  

However,800 lumens upwards.is a better option for regular/longer distance backroad fun. If you can handle the relative bulk, its 1200lumen cousin is well worth a look. RAVEMEN PR 1200 DUAL LENS FRONT LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  Sportive and Audax riders are much better served by dynamo systems, and I’ve been seriously impressed by the K-Lite Ultra Low Drag Dynamo Light K-LITE ULTRA LOW DRAG DYNAMO LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

 

Rural roads aren’t generally littered with glass and similar sharps, but thorns and hedge clippings can be quite prevalent at certain points of the year. A few miles from home on my dawn blast, I was feeling the stirrings of a very large bowel movement, which was also urging a quicker tempo. Then I felt that ominous up n’ down sinking feeling...Yup, the rear tyre had been slowly bleeding pressure and when I stopped to check, I was down from 130, to 20psi.

   

Inconvenient but spare tube, tyre levers and Lezyne pump meant I was back on the road and racing for the toilet, fearing my bowels might overtake me. Thankfully they didn’t, but it was an uncomfortably close thing. I would’ve got away quicker but was foiled by a faulty CO2 cartridge...