Freeing the Soul, Sorting the Brake

 

Some lovely kit arrived in the form of this BBB Karma MIPS helmet and Altura Airstream Jersey and bib shorts. The Karma is a nicely executed, particularly airy design using MIPS (Multi Directional Impact Protection System). This is the air node version that’s integral to the padding and supposedly the lightest iteration.

Twenty-five vents are impressive, but the raised crossbeams theoretically encourage air through the scalp. In practice, this would appear so in practice. I was pleased to note the polycarbonate shell extends around the rim, protecting the EPS liner from everyday carelessness. Though arguably a road design, I’ve found its made excellent transition to gravel duties and the shape is very accommodating of high-power lights, such as this Sigma Buster HL2000 SIGMA SPORT BUSTER HL 2000 | cycling-not-racing

A rogue red deer cantering from a hedge, into my path seemed keen to test the lid’s credentials but thankfully, my reaction times and bike handling skills kept everything in check. Altura’s Airstream are budget garments but definitely very cheerful. Both have been revised (for the better) since the set I tested back in 2021.

Pockets are deep, supportive and they’ve added a fourth, zippered model with a long, user-friendly tag. However, the left-handed will doubtless point out it doesn’t favour everyone.  Having exhausted the 50ml bottle of Muc-Off Dark Energy Chain Wax Muc-Off Dark Energy Chain Wax | cycling-not-racing , I’ve been taking to the trails and unmade byways to see how the Continental Terra Trail perform on hardpack and loose surfaces.

Speed, compliance and grip are impressive in these contexts and while the Genetic Digest are a touch broad for some gaps, this is tempered by their leverage and shallow drop. These provide excellent control when hunkered down and hossing along the singletrack. A good bet for trailer tugging and similar duties- yep, they’re staying. I dialled things that bit sharper by raising the stem a few millimetres. Some adjustments are genuinely intuitive and tend to strike mid, or post ride.

Denise’s rear stopper decided to turn erratic and mischievous. Not that I use a rear brake often, but if something’s fitted, then it needs to perform well. Having stopped to commune with this little Shetland during one forest trail frolic, I decided it was time to strip and clean the arms and replace inner and outer cables.

A simple job, but sometimes I’m my own worst enemy…Spares boxes open, I was contemplating all sorts- switching the cantilevers for some Tekro…Or some Dia Compe…Or Some Avid…Investigating this and other options saw time evaporate-precisely the opposite of what I’d intended.

After some faff and deliberation, I stripped and cleaned the brakes, bosses, applied some Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing , replaced the cables. Stripped out, both had seen better days and an obvious impairment to smooth braking.  Another bog-standard but very serviceable Clarks stainless inner, but Jagwire’s CGX SL outer. This features a high carbon coil steel, providing the strength required for braking, the carbon component limiting compression. This coupled with the lubricated liner ensures excellent modulation and feel, even commanded by Tektro’s cheerful RL340 lever.

I still treat outers and inners to a blast of maintenance spray, since opportunity presents. A precautionary drop of super glue on the freshly snipped inner seals the deal. My experience of bog standard cablesets, regardless of brand is they are serviceable enough and a very inexpensive way of restoring shifting and braking prowess- so long as they're replaced seasonally-especially on working bikes.

However, spending just a little more can reap better rewards in terms of weather resistance and performance. Pre-lubricated liners also keep things slick and largely eliminate the need for periodic flushing through with GT85 GT85 ALL PURPOSE LUBRICANT, Muc-Off MO94 Muc-Off MO94 Multi Use Spray | cycling-not-racing.

Inner wires seem less prone to stretch, cut nicely and tend not to fray so readily. That said don't skimp on decent quality cutters. I'm also quick to add that precautionary blob of superglue to the ends.  Less elegant than solder, or a crimp perhaps but effective.

You needn't spend a fortune either. Transfil Flying Snakes are c. £25, very durable and supposedly 30% lighter thanks to the Kevlar/composite outers. Forget cable cuffs, or helicopter tape at your paintwork's peril and installation requires more patience compared with other brands I've used. 

 I’m pleased to report the Ergon Orthocell Handlebar tape  Ergon Orthocell Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing  was still receptive to being re-wound and shows little signs of wear. Elsewhere, I’d been having a few issues with a Garmin pattern mount and the Gaciron Xiaoman 1000 light, so took a gamble on an auction site stem mount…

Despite some initial scepticism and tiny screws for the Garmin and GoPro patterns, I was pleasantly surprised by how easily it came together and crucially, how securely it holds the Gaciron Xiaoman and Coospo CS600 Coospo CS600 GPS | cycling-not-racing. Suffice to say, I’ve bought a second.

  

Sorting the Small Stuff

Holiday season has been about sorting the small jobs. Some that can be a little fiddlier than first thought, others that subvert trouble, (which would otherwise strike at the least convenient moment). As often happens, one thing led to another. Having popped Ursula back on her hook, I inspected my fixed gear winter/trainer’s TRP Sypre SLC. A quick spin of the wheel and pump of the lever revealed binding pads and a badly frayed able at the TRP caliper’s pinch bolt.  

No deliberation there, time for replacement. Cables are another area where it’s worth spending a bit extra, particularly with discs, in my experience. I’ve gone for the stainless TRP with compression less housing. Much easier to setup, not least since there’s no/minimal cable stretch. Feed through, tension, snug tight, pump the lever ten times...done.  

A close friend and I were recently discussing hydraulics and why I hadn’t taken that route. I concluded it's more about complication, rather than cost. Sure, there’s no arguing with their refinement, and a well setup hydraulic system can largely be left to its own devices, save for periodic bleeding.  Even so, a cable is more convenient to acquire, especially if something should go pear shaped miles from home/civilisation. Besides, I’m familiar and fond of the TRP Spyre and its marginally more upmarket SLC sibling.   

Since I had to unwrap the Velo Orange Rubbery Bar Tape VELO ORANGE RUBBERY BAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) to perform the cable swap, I took the opportunity to switch to this Ciclovation Grind Touch Grind tape, which superficially, looks almost identical to the Velo Orange.  

To my surprise, density is 3mm, whereas the Velo Orange is 3.5mm but the backing adhesive is superior. A gummy, rather than sticky strip, meaning it’s easier to install and correct, should need arise. It also bodes well, for cable and other replacements, later down the line, when things have weathered a little. Trail distribution also kindly sent me a Lelumia The Beast Trail Light, which boasts a 150lumen day flash and a couple of 100lumen flashing modes, and a 65lumen alt flash.  

All have promise impressive run times- between 4 and 18 hours. Alas, mine’s yert to arrive-seems one was pilfered in the post, so another has been released.  I’ve also received this Topeak Tailux30 USB Rear Light. As the name suggests, it delivers a maximum of 30lumens and three modes, from the twin diodes. 30 hour run time in the flashing mode is also very favourable but only real-world miles will tell.  

Recent years have seen a resurgence in the lumens race, to the point where some lights pump out 450 lumens in daylight running mode. However, I’ve traditionally found 30 lumens potent enough for town, through to semi-rural contexts and adequate for the backroads.  

I’m still fond of the Night Rider Solas and more recently, Ravemen TR30 M Rear Light RAVEMEN TR30M REAR LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), which also uses two diodes. Lumens aren’t the only gauge mind. I’ve found Ravemen CL05 Sensored Rear Light RAVEMEN CL05 SENSORED REAR LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and Its CLO6 sibling RAVEMEN CL06 SENSORED REAR LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) far more visible than numbers alone suggest.    

 

Ursula clearly got jealous, responding with some front brake squeal/judder. Easily rectified with a quick tweak of the pads, straddle wire and some subtle snugging down. I’d given the pads a glaze check-nothing doing, and I knew the rim was relatively clean- squeaky, once I'd given the old girl and thorough sudsy bucket scrub. I also took this opportunity to slot the Torque Covert7 Crank Multitool into the Deore Crank.  

 

Grot, scuzz, gunge, slurry...Whatever your pet name for winter’s slimy cocktail, there’s usually a fair bit that lodges within the cassette, derailleur and ring(s). Especially if you are using a wet chain lube. I got busy with the cassette claw and some neat degreaser, which scooped away the lion’s share of skanky stuff. 

During the cold, darker months, products like Weldtite Jet Blast Degreaser WELDTITE JET BLAST DEGREASER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) are potent, super convenient starters. Strong solvents melt the congealed, oily mess. Agitate with a stiff bristled brush, adding some less intense degreaser, scrub and then rinse with tepid water. Blends, including Muc Off Ludicrous AF require a most sustained marinate. MUC OFF LUDICROUS AF CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

Household washing-up liquids are something I’d generally avoid but are also surprisingly effective. If you must go this route, say on a cassette, whip the wheel out, scrub with the cassette pointing toward the ground. Rinse, first using warm and then cold water. Rinse any splashes from painted, plated, polished, and anodised surfaces, too.  

As many will point out, citrus degreasers are also very aggressive, so take similar precautions, and even on a plated surface, such as a cassette, or chain, don’t exceed 2 minutes before rinsing and drying.   

Then of course, there’s been tube patching, segregating those which are easily repaired and those, which are essentially bin fodder. Patches and vulcanising solution are pivotal to successful salvage. For me, Rema Tip Top are the best going, although I’ve had good results from Hutchinson, as shown in the photo, and Decathlon’s kits have been a pleasant surprise, too.      

 

Stripped, Cleaned & Sorted

What began as a wheel swap (to confirm some hypothesis regarding optimal hub dynamo and K-Lite performance) turned into a full-blown strip, clean and cable replacement. While switching the Shutter Precision PD8 wheelHALO CLASSIC RIM & SHUTTER PRECISION DYNOHUB DISC WHEEL BUILD (sevendaycyclist.com) for the SL9, I noted the stainless-steel inner wire was showing similar levels of deterioration as Ursula’s gear cable and was also bound together by a PTFE “fat berg”.  

Thankfully I had several stainless inners wires in stock, and I flushed the Tektro Spyre through with some Motorex Pow Cleaner (which is essentially a potent degreaser of the same genre as Weldtite Jet Blast Degreaser WELDTITE JET BLAST DEGREASER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and Muc Off High Power Quick Drying Degreaser Chain & Cassette MUC-OFF HIGH PRESSURE DEGREASER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) (links).  

Not a moment too soon, and time well spent. Subsequent blasts along the backroads confirmed my long-held suspicion that the K-lite Ultra Road LD (low drag) lamp and Shutter Precision SL9HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD (sevendaycyclist.com) were the ultimate pairing for a pared to the essentials’ road/Audax bike.  

The SL9 can result in less slow speed output, but this is a moot point with the K-Lite family per se, although a consideration with some more traditional dynamo lamp, such as this otherwise likeable 80lux TrelokHALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD (sevendaycyclist.com)  I was slightly (although not completely) surprised to discover the VDO head unit battery was virtually spent, putting the computer into hibernation, after six weeks. Easily, and cheaply addressed but a reminder that in real terms, premium-grade cells represent much better value.  

However, in this instance I’ll use what I have and upgrade to premium cells when present stocks are exhausted. I dread to think how fast the addition of the cadence sensor would exhaust them-I'll exhume those from the spares box, when I order a new set of CR2032 cells. . Meanwhile, the Teenage Dream’s Decathlon/Knog frankenpute is behaving impeccably and a few hundred miles down the line, I’ve reached my conclusions re the Kranx bar tapeKRANX STRETTA PRIMO ANTI SHOCK BAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com).   

Since the weather has reverted to that more commonly associated with early April- wet and 15 degrees, Fixed and Ursula have been receiving more frequent sudsy bucket washes and I've also decided to revisit Ursula’s trailer. Wheels tend to be something of an afterthought on trailers and this one is no exception. In fairness, though basic, the rim and hub and very serviceable, it’s the knobbly tyre that merits upgrading. I was very sceptical when it came to sizing.   

The arrival of these Peaty’s Greases presented the ideal opportunity for a strip and repack using their speed grease. The speed grease is designed for bearings/moving components, whereas the assembly grease is designed for metal seatposts, contact points, fasteners etc.  However, that’s not to say the latter couldn’t be employed in hubs. Bottom brackets and other moving parts, where durability is paramount.  

 Teenage Dream’s Thompson seatpost was treated to a fairly liberal helping, while I was about it. This had become a little arthritic, requiring a quick shot of release spray, so not a moment too soon.  

One thing usually leads to another and while rummaging for something completely unrelated, I happened upon these Topeak Versamount. Next came some Axiom Ti cages, so I introduced them, using some excess post grease to coat the screw threads.     

I digress, back to the trailer. The OEM unit is reckoned to be 16x1.75 (47-305 ERTO) but looked closer to 14x1.75. However, with nothing in 14inch to offer, I took a gamble and acquired this 16x1.75 Schwalbe, which thankfully, proved a winner.   

The other issue with the OEM type, is they tend to be anything but compliant.  

Wrestling them on/off the rim can induce a lend of primal grunting and agricultural language more commonly associated with a labour ward.  I may well upgrade the trailer’s carry sack, should something suitable present. The existing bag is made from a waterproof fabric, but the seams aren’t, thus water and ingress will work their way inside, relatively quickly.