Lights, Discs & Doo Dahs

 

There comes a time in the creative process where fatigue strikes, and I’m both numb of bum and brain. This is fleeting and easily dismissed on the road, or trail. Well, assuming of course, I’m not breaking in a traditional leather saddle. The saddle is where I do much of my contemplation of wider dilemmas and escape life’s exhausting noise. Chances are, come a ride's end, whether it be 20 or 50 miles, I’ve mentally drafted a plan of action and just need to transcribe.  

The present political climate, the mobilization of people towards a very dark avenue often creeps into my thoughts. Not on the bike specifically, but my rights to ride, to be, to live and let live aren’t something I take for granted. Fascism doesn’t ignite or become tolerated overnight, rather, it knocks politely and speaks softly. The rhetoric is steadily dialled higher, mobilising people from outrage to organised street violence. Extremist views then become mainstream and normalised.

There’s also a lot of money to be made. Nothing new, we’ve been here before. The same “patriots” engaging in the street violence, intimidation will talk about their grandfathers and great grandfathers' participation in World War II. They will do so with pride, oblivious to the fact these men were battling against precisely the fascism they are buying into and fuelling. These politics of rage are also intertwined with anti-intellectualism and a profound lack of critical thought.

Meandering along the lanes, turning a steady cadence aboard Muffin, engaging the brake lever and feeling the Spyre SLC bite the rotor progressively, it occurred to me. I’ve a tendency to ignore rear brakes much of the time. In addition to double- checking the alignment and piston travel, I needed to go back to basics bedding in Ursula’s rear brake. Get those pads and rotor nice and warm along some sweeping descents, bring the bike progressively to a walking pace. Rinse and repeat until optimised.

I’d also come across a NOS Shimano BR517 at a very tempting price, so indulged as a contingency. It’s a single-piston model and surprisingly compact alongside a Spyre. Yes, my temptation is palpable. However, I’m determined to get an impeccably behaved Spyre. I also decided to get a little more scientific with calliper alignment, courtesy of this tool.    

Progressively cooler weather and falling leaves has seen my sudden switch to 3/4lengths and this Castelli Do Di Ci Jacket  Castelli Do Di Ci Jacket | cycling-not-racing. Temperatures have typically around 9, or 10 degrees when I’ve headed out, creeping up to 13 or 14. At the upper end, arm warmers and a micro jacket should suffice, especially if rest stops aren’t planned but flats or similar sneaky mechanical can flip the script.

I’m still defaulting to mitts, although occasionally it's been cold enough that I’ve reached for these Cycology Life Behind Bars MTB Gloves Cycology Life Behind Bars MTB Gloves | cycling-not-racing  Talking of script flipping, shorter days and longer nights have seen the arrival of these Msagicshine Ray 3000 Endurance Bike Light with ANT+ and Seemee400 ANT+. The Ray 3000 Endurance Bike Light With ANT+ boasts a maximum of 3,000lumens and eight modes, carried across three settings and sequences. Starting with the low beam, which in my view covers most bases of road riding. We have 375lumens (cited as a 22.5-hour run time), two 750lumens (10.5 hours and 13.5 hours) and 1500lumens (4.5 hours). Next comes a hybrid setting comprising of 1500lumens (6.5 hours) and the full 3,000lumens (3hours).

Finally, there are two flashing modes, only accessible via the wireless remote. One of the traditional limitations of integrated battery models are run times, especially in the highest settings. These might be fine for those who primarily ride through the suburbs but want to let loose along the backroads for a few miles. However, the 10000mAh lithium-ion cell employed here promises 4.5 hours from the 1500lumens, which is practical for longer exploratory rides. 3,000lumens is really for trail and gravel duties.

Night flash ranges between 165 and 900lumens. I was initially curious as to whether the remote from other models, including the Hori 1300 Magicshine HORI 1300 Front Light | cycling-not-racing would also engage the Ray3000.  I wasn’t expecting it to, but stranger things have happened.  Staying with the remote, I’ve mounted ours to lever hoods for convenient, mid-ride toggling. Aside from illustrative purposes, I’ve positioned it inboard to prevent potential damage in the event of a spill. It can also be paired with some computer head mounts for further tunability.  

The nicely machined stock mount required two shims to achieve vice-like tenure  on the Genetic Neuron Accessory Bar GENETIC NEURON ACCESSORY BAR | cycling-not-racing  Rather than porting over, I’ve gone with Denise’s stem mount and resurrected the OEM Coospo CS600 Coospo CS600 GPS | cycling-not-racing- I may replace it with another of the Magicshine Allty …

The Seeme 400 is another design producing 400lumens in the braking and daylight flash. There are five modes catering for most riding contexts. Three flashing and two steady.  There’s a third diode poking out from a turret at the base. Referred to as the “Optitracing” light it casts a broad arc at the tarmac, which is really effective. The Seemee 200 V2 was my first introduction to the Optitracing concept, and both these lights seem particularly good choices for trailers, recumbents, tandems and tagalongs. The 1600mAh lithium-ion cell also ensures generous run times.  

On the subject of upgrades, I’ll retire Denise’s Venerable Tektro levers for Dia Compe GC08H come the next cable change. These Genetic Karyotype bottom brackets are earmarked for the Holdsworth and Muffin when their existing units get the grumbles. Muffin will have a 42-tooth Tibia chain ring next time round.

 

Mr Tickle… Disciplining the TRP Spyre

 

No, I’m not referring to Roger Hargreaves creation, or the office letch…I’d been experiencing some very minor, intermittent tickling with Ursula’s rear TRP Spyre. Now, lifting the rear wheel and turning the pedals confirmed the rotor was true and the calliper correctly centred. Ditto the rear wheel.

Before touching anything else, pop the bike on the ground, slacken the quick release and ensure the wheel’s correctly seated within the dropouts. Snug the quick release down and close the lever.

Double check by lifting the rear wheel (popping the bike in a tune up stand, such as this Topeak, makes this and any subsequent tweaking much simpler.) In this instance, everything was behaving impeccably, so this left frame flex. It only happened under load, say when accelerating and would then smooth out. Thru axles are much stiffer, largely eliminating this issue.

Some deliberation and a quicker wander round the web suggested slipping a 3mm Allen key in the pad adjusters and backing the pads out fractionally either side. This would buy a smidge more gap between the rotor, without impairing stopping prowess. Accessing the pad adjusters was tricky, although this Oxford Torque R10 Mini Ratchet Set Oxford Torque RT10 Mini Ratchet Set | cycling-not-racing  came into its own.

Maybe it was psychosomatic but pumping the brake lever a few times suggested small but tangible improvement. Being as it was late in the evening, I wanted to quit while ahead, ruling out becoming wired, dare we say obsessional. Road testing was left until the following morning.  

The humble Spyre divide opinion and in my experience, they require a little more patience to setup and finer adjustments then onward. However, for the most part, they’re straightforward customers and much better fit for me than Avid BB7. Hybrid models, including TRP HY/RD are cable operated but employ a hydraulic reservoir, automatically adjusting pads as they wear.

They work well in my experience. However, the hydraulics are another thing to service. I’d even toyed with buying a different brand of rear calliper. Shimano BR-R517 and 317 seemed a good bet. However, there wasn’t anything wrong with the Spyre, so the sensible, cost-free (save for time) decision was to analyse, trouble shoot, tweak, ride and repeat. The intermittent tinkling continued and the only thing I hadn’t ruled out was rotor health.

Now, the rotor fitted came straight from the brake spares box, so was part worn and intended to get us going following Ursula’s renovations. Pensioning off seemed like a good move and would rule that out as a potential source. No amount of calliper alignment would work if the rotor was slightly warped. Not enough to create mischief in the work stand but amplified by minor flex under pedalling force. I’ve gone for a 160mm Disco brakes Wavey, since I had excellent experiences with one tested back in 2022 Disco Disc Brake Pads and Wavey Rotors | cycling-not-racing . It’s gone up in price but is stainless and very much a known quantity.  

Some Deore rotors going for the proverbial song (£10 pair) so indulged, since like most consumables, rotors wear out and at the least convenient moments. Since conditions allowed, I decided to whip out Ursula's Kinkekt2.1 KINEKT 2.1 SUSPENSION SEAT POST | cycling-not-racing seat post and blast some corrosion inhibitor down the seat tube, before the weather turned.

I toyed with the idea of making a butyl boot for the Kinekt post but didn't have any suitably broad scrap butyl to hand. Neoprene covers are one solution, but they also hold moisture, which can cause corrosion and similar problems later down the line. I dried the post and give the moving parts a shot of Muc-Off Silicone Spray MUC OFF SILICON SHINE POLISH | cycling-not-racing

One thing led to another-since time and weather permitted. The drivetrain was blitzed using Motoverde Drivetrain Cleaner Motoverde Drivetrain Cleaner | cycling-not-racing and Oxford Chain Brush Pro Oxford Chain Brush Pro | cycling-not-racing, followed by a through sudsy bucket washing and waxing.  Fully dried, I decided to use up some leftover Finish Line Dry Lube TEST & REVIEW FINISH LINE DRY BIKE LUBRICANT - it was a small, saddlebag size that I'd had since the dawn of time and just taking up space. 

I didn't fancy the wax route this time round but wasn't ready for a stodgier oil-based lubricant just yet. A quick shot of MO94 Muc-Off MO94 Multi Use Spray | cycling-not-racing on the cables, cleat mechanisms and pivot points to flush any residual water out concluded this impromptu post-ride fettling. I’ll close here with my long-term review of the System EX Pro Grease Gun The System EX Pro Grease Gun | cycling-not-racing

Revise, Run & Reflect

 

This is a principle I generally apply in broad strokes terms, not simply to bicycles, but is particularly relevant in this context. For some years now, I’ve tended to work potential changes out on paper first, evaluating the pros and cons before committing myself. Product testing is a different kettle of fish. Manufacturers and distributors sometimes send stuff on spec and I’ very receptive to “lucky dips”. I’m referring to matters such as braking, steering and gearing. In the latter context.

I’m staying with a 2x setup.

A third ring will barely get used, so will just add weight and complexity. 32x22 rings coupled with a 12-28, or 12-30 cassette provides sufficient range for most of my riding contexts. Sure, a 48 ring would offer some bombing prowess but spin-out isn’t something I’m struggling with. Even with the trailer and decent cargo en tow, there’s sufficient torque for 17mph cruising and faster descending without loosing out on the climb. A well-honed cantilever, or cable operated disc setup has sufficient bite for 20 odd kilos and 1in 7 descents-provided you’re not in Kamikaze mode.

On several occasions, I’ve toyed with ideas of upgrading to a more expensive cable-operated disc configuration. However, aside from some quirks, especially when it comes to setup, the Spyre and SLC are still very simple to work on and provide enough bite. Hydraulics have been another recurrent temptation. More bite, lower maintenance but set up and servicing are not as straightforward as some suggest.

A well-equipped local bike shop is worth their weight in gold and, all things being equal. would be only too happy to setup and maintain. However, even the best maintained components and bikes can malfunction, often at the least convenient moment. All I need carry on a cable-operated setup are a suitable multitool, spare inner wires and some pads. The latter I’d save for a big ride, or tour but you get the idea.

Talking of touring, I’ve been getting some more serious miles done with the M Part Ridge Rear Pannier Rack and continue to be impressed with its generic compatibility. By that I mean its plug and play compatibility with most mounting hardware, including Rixen Kaul, this Lomo Zeyphr Lomo Zephyr Waterproof Panniers | cycling-not-racing. Topeak’s Handleloc system found on their Pannier Drybag 16litre The Topeak Pannier Dry Bag 16 litre | cycling-not-racing required some shims (binding some old butyl around the rack tubing has similar results). Either way, reliable union is readily achievable.

 While I’ve had no heel clearance or similar issues with 20 litre models, I am forming the opinion the rack’s angular profile is optimal longer, narrower designs, such as the Topeak and Oxford Aqua V20 Single Pannier Oxford Aqua V20 Single Pannier | cycling-not-racing The top section is slightly broader than its Summit cousin, which came as a pleasant surprise and makes it a better host for rack top bags.   

I am a proponent of powder coated finishes-at least well applied, good quality powders. The satin black looks classy and more importantly, is holding up well against the usual fitting and removing. While I wouldn’t get unduly concerned about the everyday wear and tear, beyond a certain point, I’d be inclined to have it refinished along with some other parts (to keep things cost effective). Prevention is always better than cure. Dressing the rails in old butyl tube, or electrical tape largely renders this a moot point.

Talking of dressing, the temperatures are slowly tempering and dropping to more seasonally typical figures. Layering is the most obvious, time-honoured solution but some manufacturers, including Castelli offer apparel designed to bridge the gap between summer and early autumn.

Contexts where it is typically temperate, but it can turn cool, or damp during the course of a ride. A packable jacket helps protect against wind chill, showers and more persistent rainfall; arm warmers keep short sleeve jerseys practical when temperatures fluctuate. ¾ lengths divide opinion, but my when the temperatures are dropping and they’ll dry quicker than tights when the heavens open. Much will depend on how long you’re out riding but a cap and liner gloves and a buff can come in similarly useful.

Rains have brought the temperature down and meant bikes get grimier. Perfect for evaluating the Juice Lubes Slick Juice Grease’s staying prowess and of course, the brand’s bike wash and concentrate formulas.

Chains are still dressed in the All-Mountain-Style Miami Glide Chain Wax The All Mountain Style Miami Glide | cycling-not-racing and I see no reason to switch until October. By that point, I suspect I’ll be pensioning off Muffin’s KMC Z510 HX in favour of a Z1 Inox SEVEN DAY CYCLIST'S 3000 MILE TEST OF A KMC INOX CHAIN  and test lubes aside, likely defaulting to Weldtite All Weather Lube Weldtite All Weather Lube | cycling-not-racing . The All-Weather Lube is less tenacious than stodgy wet formulas, but cleaner, requires no curing time and is easily topped up.     

 

Sky Blue Thinking....Bars & Busted Levers

 

Sometimes simple jobs can become very involved. I’d decided now was time to retire the Genetic D-Riser 4. It was a two-horse race between 44cm Ridgeback (Promax) featuring a moderate 8-degree flare, which is modest, although double that of the Genetic D-Riser 4. Then there are these 42cm Selcof Sterrato V2 Flared Gravel Handlebars.  For the uninitiated, Selcof are a post war Italian marque sold in 2008 to the Rivolta Group and now a mid-point marque marketed and distributed in the UK by Planet X.

Neither feature any rise and the drop is deeper (125mm in the Selcof’s instance). However, the tops make for easier, dare I say, cleaner positioning of lights and other accessories, which is another definite plus from my perspective

I’ve gone for the narrower Selcof, given Muffin is primarily a road build, and I don’t need the same degree of flare. It will permit me to tuck in a little tighter reducing air resistance when battling headwinds and the steering should remain predictably brisk. While reflecting and taking a wander round the web, I spotted this T-One Mr Fantastic Handlebar Tape T-ONE MR FANTASTIC HANDLEBAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing . .  Greyville used to be their importer here in the UK, but I found some on a well-known auction site at a price I couldn’t pass up. I was pleasantly surprised by how closely it compliments Muffin’s livery.

It’s one of my all-time favourite bar tapes. I'm fond of others certainly and as with other natural silicones, at least those in lighter, or brighter colours, they do collect dirt and grime quite easily. Less so than the Acros Silicone Wrap Handlebar Tape Acros Silicone Wrap Handlebar Tape | Seven Day Cyclist, which features an embossed pattern. Otherwise, both share very similar pros and cons.

Comfort, damping and grip being the main draws- perfect for long training miles, touring lorries, bike packing, gravel and to a lesser extent, cyclo cross. Properties that outweigh their slight weight penalty over more traditional bar tapes, although this is only likely to be a turn off for owners of pared to the essentials TT missiles and other bikes on strict calorie-controlled diets.  The tear down was very straightforward, although the stem bolts had turned a little arthritic, having not been stripped and re-greased in a while.

Then I discovered the Tektro RL520’s resin cable run had warped, meaning a cable wouldn’t slide through. After some effort and the relentless barking of the neighbour’s three dogs inducing a splitting headache, I concluded the lever needed pensioning off. Running the very worthy, wall4et-friendly RL520 across the fleet long term, I’ve concluded the resin cable slot is a weak spot, so having double checked they’re compatible with disc invested in a set of Dia Compe 287 V.   I’ve used these before, albeit with V brakes and found them very effective with nice modulation and feel. I’ve forgone the Cane Creek dummy lever, since the different hood shapes meant I couldn’t get the alignment right when checked with one’s trusty spirit level.

Elsewhere, some winter Castelli goodies courtesy of Saddleback, Castelli's UK distributor has sent me the Ultimate Rain Jacket and Bib Tights. These are arguably intended for cool to moderate early season conditions, with a suggested temperature range between plus 4 and 14 degrees. The jacket features a PFAS-free PU membrane, taped seams, two hip pockets for parking stuff- hands too, when mooching around sans bike. There’s an integrated hood designed to fit beneath a helmet, while also continuing the dual use narrative.

Though a tailored fit, there’s plenty of adjustment, courtesy of the draw string hem, meaning you can bring it tighter on the bike, let t out when wearing street clothes. The Fordist “Any colour you like so long as its black” tends to divide opinion, but it compliment anything and retro reflective detailing around the hem and elasticated cuffs offer some nocturnal presence.  The tights feature the Progretto X2 Air Seamless Seat Pad and stretchy mesh cargo pockets on the thighs for snacks and anything else you might want quick access to are arguably a nod to gravel and bike packing.   

Formative impressions are favourable and what I’d expect from this end of the market. The Ultimate tights are best thought of as a middleweight model- apparently in the fabric density. None the worse for it. While they certainly have their place, I find the thermal Roubaix types a little too thick and toasty, even when the temperature’s dropping several degrees below zero. Part of this could be explained by my favouring of lower gears and a higher cadence, especially during the darker months.  To be honest, eight degrees upwards and I’m erring towards ¾ lengths, plenty of warmth and protection to the knees.

Continuing this wintry theme, I was also pleased to receive this Coospo TR70 Smart Radar Taillight, which boasts approaching vehicle warning, braking and a total of six other modes and a claimed maximum 40 hours run time (radar only). As is the trend for lighting, its designed to communicate with smart phones and indeed, some computers. The internet of all things some might say. Either way, I’m looking forward to seeing how it performs in the real world.

 

Frankensets

 

I’d continued to build Ursula in short, little and often bursts. I’d instated the Microshift bar con, replaced a tube in the rear Ryde XT wheel and inflated the Continental Cross Kings to 55psi and then began contemplating Ursula’s bar tape. Change for changes sake, a new era? I didn’t want to say goodbye to the Cycology 8 days Cycology 8 days Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) just yet, but fate (and the elements) had other ideas. I’ve gone for the Acros Silicone Bar Wrap LONG-TERM TEST: ACROS SILICONE BAR WRAP | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) the orange rather than blue, given winter’s looming. It's easily wrapped and naturally sticky, so no need for a backing adhesive, which makes cable swaps that bit easier.   

While I pondered this, my place in the Universe etc., I decided to install a fresh set of Microshift bar cons. There was nothing wrong with the original left shifter, but I decided since I needed to fit the rear bar con, I may as well go for uniformity at this stage. I want the rebuild right, from the off. Jagwire Road Elite sealed cables (173g complete and uncut) were also installed but fatigue left me convinced I’d a full set of derailleur cables. I had several inners but only one outer and one complete set of ferrules. I left everything snug but not pruned and decided to quit while ahead.   

The following day, I managed to whip the rear wheel in, set up the rear brake calliper and fitted a KMC chain, using the sleeping hub to hold everything in alignment. I’ll dial in the rear mech another time, probably when the front mech cable arrives. Meantime, I’ve popped the Acros tape (left side) into the wash.  All was going well until I tried the headset. Having stripped the Stronglight unit, I discovered it wasn’t all it seemed- a frankenset, made from bits of headsets. I had another, a cartridge model bought a while back and yep, despite being in a sealed envelope, was also missing parts. Bottom line, I was weary of wasting any more time, removed the Stronglight and bought an FSA, consigning the former to the bin.   

Elsewhere, the ORP Smart HornTESTED: ORP SMART HORN (sevendaycyclist.com) has returned to my fixed gear winter/trainer’s Genetic D-Riser 4 bars GENETIC DRISER 4 HANDLEBARS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) The two-tone powder coat finish is enjoying its 9th birthday and is still in great shape. Though wet has been the primary narrative of the past fortnight, I found time to give the bike a seriously good clean, removed the seat post and blasted some of the waxy corrosion inhibitor inside.  I hung it up for a few days, switching to Denise for some fun along the lanes, allowing the fixed’s corrosion inhibitor to cure thoroughly.   

More lights have been coming our way-as you’d expect, given we’re entering the darker season. Magicshine See Mee 100AD Rear Light, which can produce, you guessed it, 100lumens. AD stands for Auto Detect, referring to the sensor system, which produces a more intense flashing light when it senses another vehicle approaching. It can also be synced with other compatible taillights for heightened presence.  

Not forgetting the Alty 800 V2.0/1200/1200U front lights. IPX6 for weatherproofing seems increasingly to be the default, which is good news for most consumers. It’s not waterproof in the submersible sense, but will certainly fend off very heavy rain, standing water, mud too, in my experience.  

I’ve not had too much issue with lights confirming to the lowlier IPX4 over the years- at least for road biased duties. However, there have been occasions when I’ve needed to flush a drowned unit out with a few liberal blasts of water displacer.  

Formative impressions suggest the See Mee 100AD sensor is very accurate and the flash deployed remarkably effective at grabbing and holding attention. Theoretically, this should mean being able to run a lower setting, conserving power and letting the intelligent technology do its thing when other vehicles approach.  

This doesn’t come naturally to me. Surrendering to tech’s mercy isn’t something that sits naturally with me but in the interests of testing. I’ll give it a go. The relatively flat lens design also aroused some minor concerns around peripheral presence, say when crossing junctions etc. but the projected light seems to counter this.  

Another nice feature is mount compatibility with others in the SeeMee family, so I can just switch places with the See Mee 50Mag, or indeed, the SeeMee100 and SeeMee 200 V2 without any issues. Super convenient and very welcome. It also makes sense from the vantage point of manufacturing economics.