Sorting the Small Stuff

Holiday season has been about sorting the small jobs. Some that can be a little fiddlier than first thought, others that subvert trouble, (which would otherwise strike at the least convenient moment). As often happens, one thing led to another. Having popped Ursula back on her hook, I inspected my fixed gear winter/trainer’s TRP Sypre SLC. A quick spin of the wheel and pump of the lever revealed binding pads and a badly frayed able at the TRP caliper’s pinch bolt.  

No deliberation there, time for replacement. Cables are another area where it’s worth spending a bit extra, particularly with discs, in my experience. I’ve gone for the stainless TRP with compression less housing. Much easier to setup, not least since there’s no/minimal cable stretch. Feed through, tension, snug tight, pump the lever ten times...done.  

A close friend and I were recently discussing hydraulics and why I hadn’t taken that route. I concluded it's more about complication, rather than cost. Sure, there’s no arguing with their refinement, and a well setup hydraulic system can largely be left to its own devices, save for periodic bleeding.  Even so, a cable is more convenient to acquire, especially if something should go pear shaped miles from home/civilisation. Besides, I’m familiar and fond of the TRP Spyre and its marginally more upmarket SLC sibling.   

Since I had to unwrap the Velo Orange Rubbery Bar Tape VELO ORANGE RUBBERY BAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) to perform the cable swap, I took the opportunity to switch to this Ciclovation Grind Touch Grind tape, which superficially, looks almost identical to the Velo Orange.  

To my surprise, density is 3mm, whereas the Velo Orange is 3.5mm but the backing adhesive is superior. A gummy, rather than sticky strip, meaning it’s easier to install and correct, should need arise. It also bodes well, for cable and other replacements, later down the line, when things have weathered a little. Trail distribution also kindly sent me a Lelumia The Beast Trail Light, which boasts a 150lumen day flash and a couple of 100lumen flashing modes, and a 65lumen alt flash.  

All have promise impressive run times- between 4 and 18 hours. Alas, mine’s yert to arrive-seems one was pilfered in the post, so another has been released.  I’ve also received this Topeak Tailux30 USB Rear Light. As the name suggests, it delivers a maximum of 30lumens and three modes, from the twin diodes. 30 hour run time in the flashing mode is also very favourable but only real-world miles will tell.  

Recent years have seen a resurgence in the lumens race, to the point where some lights pump out 450 lumens in daylight running mode. However, I’ve traditionally found 30 lumens potent enough for town, through to semi-rural contexts and adequate for the backroads.  

I’m still fond of the Night Rider Solas and more recently, Ravemen TR30 M Rear Light RAVEMEN TR30M REAR LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), which also uses two diodes. Lumens aren’t the only gauge mind. I’ve found Ravemen CL05 Sensored Rear Light RAVEMEN CL05 SENSORED REAR LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and Its CLO6 sibling RAVEMEN CL06 SENSORED REAR LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) far more visible than numbers alone suggest.    

 

Ursula clearly got jealous, responding with some front brake squeal/judder. Easily rectified with a quick tweak of the pads, straddle wire and some subtle snugging down. I’d given the pads a glaze check-nothing doing, and I knew the rim was relatively clean- squeaky, once I'd given the old girl and thorough sudsy bucket scrub. I also took this opportunity to slot the Torque Covert7 Crank Multitool into the Deore Crank.  

 

Grot, scuzz, gunge, slurry...Whatever your pet name for winter’s slimy cocktail, there’s usually a fair bit that lodges within the cassette, derailleur and ring(s). Especially if you are using a wet chain lube. I got busy with the cassette claw and some neat degreaser, which scooped away the lion’s share of skanky stuff. 

During the cold, darker months, products like Weldtite Jet Blast Degreaser WELDTITE JET BLAST DEGREASER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) are potent, super convenient starters. Strong solvents melt the congealed, oily mess. Agitate with a stiff bristled brush, adding some less intense degreaser, scrub and then rinse with tepid water. Blends, including Muc Off Ludicrous AF require a most sustained marinate. MUC OFF LUDICROUS AF CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

Household washing-up liquids are something I’d generally avoid but are also surprisingly effective. If you must go this route, say on a cassette, whip the wheel out, scrub with the cassette pointing toward the ground. Rinse, first using warm and then cold water. Rinse any splashes from painted, plated, polished, and anodised surfaces, too.  

As many will point out, citrus degreasers are also very aggressive, so take similar precautions, and even on a plated surface, such as a cassette, or chain, don’t exceed 2 minutes before rinsing and drying.   

Then of course, there’s been tube patching, segregating those which are easily repaired and those, which are essentially bin fodder. Patches and vulcanising solution are pivotal to successful salvage. For me, Rema Tip Top are the best going, although I’ve had good results from Hutchinson, as shown in the photo, and Decathlon’s kits have been a pleasant surprise, too.      

 

Wet n' Wild

Wet roads increase the risk of punctures. Clearly, I was tempting fate by saying the 32mm Tioga City Slicker had only succumbed to a single flat. As of last Monday night, the running total, is two. Impressive though, given their mileage and lack of puncture repelling belt. 

Something sharp and thorny had worked inside, while racing along the sweeping, waterlogged lanes. This grazed the tube, inducing loss of pressure one mile from home. Mercifully, despite the water amplified hiss, deflation was at snail’s pace, so I made it back without incident, and with 45psi remaining. 

This prompted close scrutiny of butyl stock. Ultimately, I needed to cull several but was able to patch the wounded tube and had two serviceable 700x28-35c, and a virgin 700x35/42. These were quickly ported over to my Carradice SQR Tour bag. Sometimes it’s about using what you’ve got. I’ll replenish when a decent wholesale deal presents. 

I also switched the City Slicker for The Vee Tire Co Zilent MK2 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/vee-tire-co-zilent-mark-2-tyres, which were introduced with stronger sidewalls. Seems some folks loved the originals so much, they deployed them as laden touring rubber. No such stresses on my fixed gear winter/trainer and in some respects, they’re a little portly. 

That said; they roll much quicker than a 38mm 997g tyre might imply and a 5mm aramid centre strip adds confidence. Similar genre of tyre to the rear’s long serving Schwalbe Marathon GT https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/schwalbe-marathon-gt-tyres . 

Though I love the changing seasons and night riding specifically, shorter daylight means dependability trumps exotica. As with location-based photo-shoots, its imperative rider and machine return home without incident. 

Therefore, a more time-efficient, disciplined approach to maintenance. Heavier duty tyres, chain lubes, backup lighting, Co2 cartridges and decent pump being good bets. Throw in a tyre boot, patch kit, change of socks, gloves and Buff type “tube” and you’ve the basics covered. Talking of which, I’ve reached my conclusions regarding the Follow Hollow Alpaca Socks https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/follow-hollow-men-s-alpaca-socks .

The Zefal Pro Wet Chain Lube is showing little signs of waning, despite the weather, which is quite impressive. Like other, dare I say, more traditional wet blends it’s tacky to touch. Transfer to skin and clothing is moderate. 

In terms of rider dressage, Pro Viz have also sent me their 360+ jacket. Typical of most at this price point, it’s a polyester blend with breathability and waterproofing ratings of 10,000+gm and 10,000mm. Its seam sealed, has a fleece lined collar to retain warmth and stop wet stuff, from trickling inside. 

Sensible range of pockets too, which is welcome. Then of course there’s the retro-reflective layer that’s grey by day but brilliant white by night, when graced by vehicle, or street lighting.  Steve’s been busy putting Showers Pass Skyline Trousers https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/showers-pass-skyline-trousers  to the test.

Talking of lighting, I’ve done 100 miles with the K-Lite Bikepacker Pro V2 and it’s another lovely model that loses little to its Ultra siblings-at least for road riding. It doesn’t quite stop SUVs in their tracks, or cause them to flash their lights, and I reckon the full 1300lumens comes on tap at 15mph (rather than the 11.18 suggested). 

Sensibly, it runs the same switchgear and yes, you can whip in the USB charger and refuel blinkies, phones/other gizmos on the go.  

 See Sense Have sent me their ICON2 rear light, which is so much more than just a super powerful, tuneable rear light. Though fascinated and rightly intrigued by smart technology, I’m slightly wary of things that are connected via apps and internet. That established, with the app downloaded, the unit can record all sorts of data, including theft, road surface quality and an array of other information. 

It’s also proving extremely solid. I decided to mount ours to my SQR bag, using their clothing clip (Jemma at See Sense warned me against this, given the Icon2 is heavier than previous incarnations…)

It subsequently ejected along some washboard tarmac. Took a direct hit, bouncing along the dimpled asphalt. I needn’t’ve worried. Build quality is superb and there wasn’t a mark on it.

Here’s our general overview of LED safety lights https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/in-the-blink-of-an-eye