Goldilocks Moments

Maintenance is a core component of riding. Little adjustments and checks keep things sweet and mean more time in the saddle, rather than on the workbench. I was switching Ursula’s wheels back to the Maxxis and suddenly felt compelled to check my fixed gear winter trainer’s CST Pika Gravel Tyres CST Pika Gravel Tyres | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com).  

The front was decidedly soft, much softer than I’d expect after a fortnight on the hook.  I initially thought this might be a quirk of the Pirelli Centurato Reinforced Smart Tube. PIRELLI CENTURATO REINFORCED SMART TUBE (sevendaycyclist.com) but 20 strokes of the track pump later, an audible hiss confirmed a slow flat. Usual checks- rim tape, foreign objects in the casing. Ruled those out and popped in a box fresh butyl tube.  

Wheel reinstated, tyre inflated, brake checked, and skewer tightened to 9nm, I topped up the Motoverde PTFE chain lube. Next, I decided the fork's “low rider” drillings needed plugging if only to keep the aluminium alloy inserts from corrosion. Thought the red anodised bottle screws I’d picked up for a song would do nicely.  

A lick of Peaty’s Bicycle Assembly Grease PEATY'S BICYCLE ASSEMBLY GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) on the threads, I whizzed them home-just right-the Goldilocks moment.  

See Sense had sent me another mount for the Beam+, so I decided the fixed should receive that, Ursula would stick with the Magicshine. So far, the replacement feels a precise fit, suggesting the original was just a rogue sample. 

 

The Beam+ puts out 1500 lumens and is more compact (though not radically so) than the Ravemen LR1600 Ravemen LR1600 Front Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), which I’m a huge fan of. Direct comparisons are a little tricky, unfair even, since the Beam+ can be further tuned by a downloadable app, which enables the light to alter output to suit conditions, theoretically giving the best return of visibility and navigational prowess and of course, battery life.  

I’ve been astounded by just how long the battery has lasted, between charges- 40 hours on the reactive flash, which has been my default, since I’ve been pairing it with the K-Lite Dynamos- even then, it hadn’t dipped to red, which gives an hour's grace, before powering down.   

The light’s sensor also seems more accurate than most- reading conditions and adjusting light accordingly- picks up when it senses vehicle lights, road signs and similar, which is great when you’re tackling roundabouts or entering the flow of traffic.   

The app can also alert a designated emergency contact, in the event of it sensing a crash. It will also send an alert if it senses the bike being moved, which is another useful feature.  

 

Having run the Muc-Off All Weather Lube until it had reached a filmy state- 500 miles through a salty, wintery January, I decided it was time to give Ursula a good wash. In common with some others, The All-Weather Lube requires stripping, then reapplication- it can’t (or at least, shouldn’t) be topped up like an old-fashioned middleweight.  

Despite the filmy state, it was holding back the dreaded taint, save for the side plates, obviously. Out came the Weldtite Bike Cleaner, bucket and the dregs of some degreasers that needed using up. This was also the opportunity to see how the Weldtite Rapid Ceramic Shield would perform on Ursula’s cream powder coat finish, which wasn’t treated to a clear coat...After The Gritters Went Home | Seven Day Cyclist 

February can be a tricky month weather-wise (ask my mother who delivered a sibling during the UK’s winter of discontent in February 1979) and after a quiet lull, the temperature has dropped quite sharply, so the salt-spreading fairies have been busy again.  Ditto hedge clipping, so I’ve been pleased (dare I say, relieved) to discover the Maxxis Overdrive Excel holding their own, even in minus 3, the lanes littered with iced mud. I’d also dialled the Disco Brakes Semi-Metallic Pads Disco Disc Brake Pads and Wavey Rotors | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) a fraction closer, which gave already dependable stopping a boost.   

 

Back to tyres, Steve’s been impressed with the CST Czar CST Czar Tyres | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

The Rapid Ceramic Shield also seems to be holding its own, preventing dirt and other stuff clinging to Ursula’s tubes. I’m trying to get a handle on its alchemy, but it doesn’t appear to contain silicones, like some protectant formulas can. 

Continuing the Weldtite theme, I went for their Performance All Weather Lube TF2 PERFORMANCE ALL WEATHER LUBRICANT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), since in my experience, it’s a good middleweight choice.  

Doing well, I decided a stem spacer switch, to move the See Sense Beam+ and K-lite dynamo switch K LITE BIKEPACKER PRO V2 FRONT LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) for a cleaner aesthetic. For the time being, I’m forgoing the bar cam until I can find a suitably tidy alternative mount. I’m sure I’ve a suitable candidate somewhere... Meantime, here’s my review of the Madison Road Race Super Light Men’s Waterproof Softshell Jacket Madison Road Race Jacket | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

 

Zen and the Art of Peaceful Problem Solving

 

Yes, I am borrowing from Robert M Pirsig’s “Zen and the art of motorcycle Maintenance”, which is a complex, yet engaging text about a middle-aged man and his son’s motorcycle trip together. They are accompanied by an adult couple, and it explores all sorts of deep questions via the journey interwoven with and reference to, motorcycle maintenance... 

I digress...  

They say things come in three. In this instance, cooked hub bearings, punctures and recurring Aheadset play with Ursula’s recently replaced Stronglight ST. A few possibilities sprung to mind. The most obvious that I mixed old and new crown races. Stripping confirmed I had in fact, put the old, worn race on the new fork. I’d cleaned the old race to inspect condition and must’ve placed it too close to the new one. I switched and then closer inspection suggested the Gusset head lock bolt was just a little short too.  

Rummaging through the toolbox unearthed a slightly longer counterpart, so thread lock added. Everything snugged together nicely, and closer inspection revealed the crown race was old and quite well worn, given 8 years use. Used the remaining dregs of the Park Tool Polylube 1000 TESTED: PARK TOOL POLYLUBE 1000 LUBRICANT FOR BICYCLES (sevendaycyclist.com) on the replacement crown race and consigned the spent tube to the bin. Though annoying in some respects, the process of schematically working through, diagnosing and problem-solving is very cathartic. A means of decompressing, of calming the mind and working through other, unrelated things that are troubling me.  

Punctures...Well, no sooner had I become comfortable with the Specialized Road Sport, I succumbed to a series of tube-claiming flats. One thorn had left a small but pronounced cut in the tyre casing (easily fixed with a drop of premium grade super glue). A flint and glass were the next to cause mischief. Cheap (rather than discounted) tubes are always false economy.  

They’re OK as spares-getting you home, should you flat on the road/trail but very much contingencies. However, they’re often so thin, they’re bin fodder-patching is seldom reliable. Since we’re on the subject, decent patch kits are an equally sensible investment. I put my faith in the old-school feather-edged type. Glue-less types are too hit n’ miss for my tastes.  

Leaving tubeless out of the equation, there are alternatives to butyl. Latex and TPU being two I’ve had middling experience with. Latex is noticeably light and relatively strong. However, they typically need inflating every other day and are relatively expensive. TPU, such as these Pirelli PIRELLI CENTURATO REINFORCED SMART TUBE (sevendaycyclist.com) are also relatively expensive but very lightweight and contribute to a compliant ride-palpably so, in my experience. Traditionally these weren’t repairable, but this is changing. As an aside, they’re a bit easier to fit too. Nonetheless, I’d still carry a spare butyl tube, since roadside repair isn’t practical in my experience (patches require a few hours curing time).  

Sealant (typically latex) filled tubes are another option if you’re looking for some added puncture protection. These work by movement and pressure (loss) forcing the sealant to the hole. However, they also rely on the sharp being removed from the tyre casing too. Oh, and a blowout can be extremely messy.  

That said; I tend to go the aftermarket sealant route with Schrader valves and on trailer/tagalongs.  Thorn-resistant tubes are another option. These are the proverbial builder’s hose and hefty-460g for a 700x38 and made using 4.6mm butyl. However, I found them a blessing when Ursula, Joshua, and I were out on cold, bright winter rides-the last thing you want is a flat, 15 miles from home.  

Talking of which, I typically carry a couple of spares-700c and 26inch- old but serviceable (think 3rd and final patch), in case someone is genuinely stuck by the roadside. Now, don’t get the wrong idea, I’m no “White Knight” or “Good Samaritan”. However, the spare can fail, ditto the pump- maybe you’ve run out of patches...These things can strike even the best prepared. I’d appreciate someone helping me in these situations-if they could. 

Talking of life’s little frustrations seems that the second, successive consignment of maintenance sprays had been “lost in transit” by the courier. One so notorious for this, they recently had to rebrand...Thankfully, after perseverance and the manufacturer’s strong customer service, a new batch has just materialised. On a different note, I'll leave you with my review of the Kranx Strix 100 USB Rear Light that I've been referring to recently Kranx Strix 100 USB Rear Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)