Roadside Recoveries

 A wet, greasy outing on the fixed gear winter/trainer and my serendipity was rudely pierced by a wet hiss- the front CST Pika had succumbed. I drew alongside a farmhouse which had a decent fence, meaning I could rest the bike upright and tackle the flat. I’d taken delivery of a fresh batch of tubes recently and popped a fresh spare in the Kinekt Waterproof Saddlebag KINEKT WATERPROOF SADDLE BAG | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), so though annoying-one of those things and easily fixed. The rain intensified, which didn’t do much for my mood but off came the wheel, out came the fresh tube, tyre lever and pump was to hand... 

Well, riding shotgun on its bottle mount bracket. I uncoupled it, plugged it on the fresh tube’s Presta valve. The first stroke suggested it had become waterlogged at the valve. I pulled it away and tried again- like the piston had been immersed in treacle. Now, I keep a mini pump stashed away in the wedge pack for such emergencies-pedestrian perhaps, but infinitely preferable to the long walk home.  

Where art thou??? I rummaged. A few seconds later, I’d found it. To no avail though as the new tube would not inflate-flaccid despite three attempts and 3 minutes. I slipped the pump, tubes etc. back into the wedge pack, reinstated the front wheel and ran the 6 miles home. 

 

I switched the tube and rummaging unearthed another decent pump and bracket. It also presented the opportunity to re-grease the fasteners with some Peaty’s Bicycle Assembly Grease Topeak Road, PEATY'S BICYCLE ASSEMBLY GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and I ended up switching the composite Tacx cage for this winged carbon Burls.  

I’d checked the Lezyne HP Drive- a high-pressure model with threaded head and integral analogue gauge beforehand and slipped another micro pump into the wedge pack for emergencies (although I’ve rekindled my attraction to Co2 cartridges for rapid roadside rescue).   

The HP drive is reckoned capable of 125psi, although in my experience 95 is more realistic. Easily up to the job of delivering 70psi- the Pika’s maximum and typical of several commu-touring favourites. The new forks mean 700x33mm (about 1.3 in) is the comfortable maximum and I’d be interested to see how well Maxxis Re-Fuse fare in the real world- they're reckoned to be “The perfect cycle training tyre” and extremely puncture resistant.   

Inflating the wounded tube revealed a tiny hole, so not a valve issue and suggesting it was a flint that had worked into the tyre. Easily patched and left curing overnight, could be added to the good spares pile, or returned to the wedge pack.  

Back to Ursula and someone waved a set of mtb guards designed for 29- inch wheels under my nose for a price that would’ve been stupid to pass up... The rear offers 80mm (about 3.15 in) of coverage at the widest point, which should cater for 2.2 inches without oodles of spatter caking the top, or indeed the rear triangle.  

No issues with compatibility-cantilever brakes, or indeed an SQR bag and the post clamp seems secure. These can wander/slide annoyingly-even some high-end models.  In keeping with my experience of budget models, the plastics are of decent quality, but the fitting kit is where pennies are saved. I had to switch some Allen key fasteners and find a suitable shim for the 25.4 Kinekt 2.1 Aluminium Seat post KINEKT 2.1 SUSPENSION SEAT POST | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). Thankfully I had both, so no issues.  

I had toyed with the idea of cutting down an old 26inch full-length chrome plastic to the seat stay bridge (or a few cm proud), mounting here and at the dropout eyelets. However, I didn’t have a suitable scrapper to make good and doing so would also restrict tyre choice.  

I’ve also been confounded by the Sigma BC9.16 SIGMA BC9.16 ATS WIRELESS CYCLE COMPUTER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) sensor’s refusal to communicate with the head unit.

Ultimately, I cleaned everything, including the contacts. I also sprayed some Muc-Off HCB1 on them, to rule out corrosion later down the line- the rubber O-ring seal had deformed (as they do, over time), changed the sensor battery. 

 

I repositioned it, and the magnet higher up, reducing the gap between them. Still nothing. Last thing on the list- the head unit battery... I reasoned that while the display was relatively strong, it might be depleted, and transmission affected-Bingo. Sometimes it’s the little victories. Had this intervention failed, I would’ve switched back to the Cat eye Quick- a remarkably simple model and that’s part of its’ charm.  

My first cycle computer was a wired Cat-Eye Vectra back in Christmas 1988 and I’ve had a particular fondness for the brand since.  Ending on a fond note, here’s my review of the Lazer Chameleon Helmet Lazer Chameleon Helmet | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

Zen and the Art of Peaceful Problem Solving

 

Yes, I am borrowing from Robert M Pirsig’s “Zen and the art of motorcycle Maintenance”, which is a complex, yet engaging text about a middle-aged man and his son’s motorcycle trip together. They are accompanied by an adult couple, and it explores all sorts of deep questions via the journey interwoven with and reference to, motorcycle maintenance... 

I digress...  

They say things come in three. In this instance, cooked hub bearings, punctures and recurring Aheadset play with Ursula’s recently replaced Stronglight ST. A few possibilities sprung to mind. The most obvious that I mixed old and new crown races. Stripping confirmed I had in fact, put the old, worn race on the new fork. I’d cleaned the old race to inspect condition and must’ve placed it too close to the new one. I switched and then closer inspection suggested the Gusset head lock bolt was just a little short too.  

Rummaging through the toolbox unearthed a slightly longer counterpart, so thread lock added. Everything snugged together nicely, and closer inspection revealed the crown race was old and quite well worn, given 8 years use. Used the remaining dregs of the Park Tool Polylube 1000 TESTED: PARK TOOL POLYLUBE 1000 LUBRICANT FOR BICYCLES (sevendaycyclist.com) on the replacement crown race and consigned the spent tube to the bin. Though annoying in some respects, the process of schematically working through, diagnosing and problem-solving is very cathartic. A means of decompressing, of calming the mind and working through other, unrelated things that are troubling me.  

Punctures...Well, no sooner had I become comfortable with the Specialized Road Sport, I succumbed to a series of tube-claiming flats. One thorn had left a small but pronounced cut in the tyre casing (easily fixed with a drop of premium grade super glue). A flint and glass were the next to cause mischief. Cheap (rather than discounted) tubes are always false economy.  

They’re OK as spares-getting you home, should you flat on the road/trail but very much contingencies. However, they’re often so thin, they’re bin fodder-patching is seldom reliable. Since we’re on the subject, decent patch kits are an equally sensible investment. I put my faith in the old-school feather-edged type. Glue-less types are too hit n’ miss for my tastes.  

Leaving tubeless out of the equation, there are alternatives to butyl. Latex and TPU being two I’ve had middling experience with. Latex is noticeably light and relatively strong. However, they typically need inflating every other day and are relatively expensive. TPU, such as these Pirelli PIRELLI CENTURATO REINFORCED SMART TUBE (sevendaycyclist.com) are also relatively expensive but very lightweight and contribute to a compliant ride-palpably so, in my experience. Traditionally these weren’t repairable, but this is changing. As an aside, they’re a bit easier to fit too. Nonetheless, I’d still carry a spare butyl tube, since roadside repair isn’t practical in my experience (patches require a few hours curing time).  

Sealant (typically latex) filled tubes are another option if you’re looking for some added puncture protection. These work by movement and pressure (loss) forcing the sealant to the hole. However, they also rely on the sharp being removed from the tyre casing too. Oh, and a blowout can be extremely messy.  

That said; I tend to go the aftermarket sealant route with Schrader valves and on trailer/tagalongs.  Thorn-resistant tubes are another option. These are the proverbial builder’s hose and hefty-460g for a 700x38 and made using 4.6mm butyl. However, I found them a blessing when Ursula, Joshua, and I were out on cold, bright winter rides-the last thing you want is a flat, 15 miles from home.  

Talking of which, I typically carry a couple of spares-700c and 26inch- old but serviceable (think 3rd and final patch), in case someone is genuinely stuck by the roadside. Now, don’t get the wrong idea, I’m no “White Knight” or “Good Samaritan”. However, the spare can fail, ditto the pump- maybe you’ve run out of patches...These things can strike even the best prepared. I’d appreciate someone helping me in these situations-if they could. 

Talking of life’s little frustrations seems that the second, successive consignment of maintenance sprays had been “lost in transit” by the courier. One so notorious for this, they recently had to rebrand...Thankfully, after perseverance and the manufacturer’s strong customer service, a new batch has just materialised. On a different note, I'll leave you with my review of the Kranx Strix 100 USB Rear Light that I've been referring to recently Kranx Strix 100 USB Rear Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)