Roadside Recoveries

 A wet, greasy outing on the fixed gear winter/trainer and my serendipity was rudely pierced by a wet hiss- the front CST Pika had succumbed. I drew alongside a farmhouse which had a decent fence, meaning I could rest the bike upright and tackle the flat. I’d taken delivery of a fresh batch of tubes recently and popped a fresh spare in the Kinekt Waterproof Saddlebag KINEKT WATERPROOF SADDLE BAG | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), so though annoying-one of those things and easily fixed. The rain intensified, which didn’t do much for my mood but off came the wheel, out came the fresh tube, tyre lever and pump was to hand... 

Well, riding shotgun on its bottle mount bracket. I uncoupled it, plugged it on the fresh tube’s Presta valve. The first stroke suggested it had become waterlogged at the valve. I pulled it away and tried again- like the piston had been immersed in treacle. Now, I keep a mini pump stashed away in the wedge pack for such emergencies-pedestrian perhaps, but infinitely preferable to the long walk home.  

Where art thou??? I rummaged. A few seconds later, I’d found it. To no avail though as the new tube would not inflate-flaccid despite three attempts and 3 minutes. I slipped the pump, tubes etc. back into the wedge pack, reinstated the front wheel and ran the 6 miles home. 

 

I switched the tube and rummaging unearthed another decent pump and bracket. It also presented the opportunity to re-grease the fasteners with some Peaty’s Bicycle Assembly Grease Topeak Road, PEATY'S BICYCLE ASSEMBLY GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and I ended up switching the composite Tacx cage for this winged carbon Burls.  

I’d checked the Lezyne HP Drive- a high-pressure model with threaded head and integral analogue gauge beforehand and slipped another micro pump into the wedge pack for emergencies (although I’ve rekindled my attraction to Co2 cartridges for rapid roadside rescue).   

The HP drive is reckoned capable of 125psi, although in my experience 95 is more realistic. Easily up to the job of delivering 70psi- the Pika’s maximum and typical of several commu-touring favourites. The new forks mean 700x33mm (about 1.3 in) is the comfortable maximum and I’d be interested to see how well Maxxis Re-Fuse fare in the real world- they're reckoned to be “The perfect cycle training tyre” and extremely puncture resistant.   

Inflating the wounded tube revealed a tiny hole, so not a valve issue and suggesting it was a flint that had worked into the tyre. Easily patched and left curing overnight, could be added to the good spares pile, or returned to the wedge pack.  

Back to Ursula and someone waved a set of mtb guards designed for 29- inch wheels under my nose for a price that would’ve been stupid to pass up... The rear offers 80mm (about 3.15 in) of coverage at the widest point, which should cater for 2.2 inches without oodles of spatter caking the top, or indeed the rear triangle.  

No issues with compatibility-cantilever brakes, or indeed an SQR bag and the post clamp seems secure. These can wander/slide annoyingly-even some high-end models.  In keeping with my experience of budget models, the plastics are of decent quality, but the fitting kit is where pennies are saved. I had to switch some Allen key fasteners and find a suitable shim for the 25.4 Kinekt 2.1 Aluminium Seat post KINEKT 2.1 SUSPENSION SEAT POST | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). Thankfully I had both, so no issues.  

I had toyed with the idea of cutting down an old 26inch full-length chrome plastic to the seat stay bridge (or a few cm proud), mounting here and at the dropout eyelets. However, I didn’t have a suitable scrapper to make good and doing so would also restrict tyre choice.  

I’ve also been confounded by the Sigma BC9.16 SIGMA BC9.16 ATS WIRELESS CYCLE COMPUTER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) sensor’s refusal to communicate with the head unit.

Ultimately, I cleaned everything, including the contacts. I also sprayed some Muc-Off HCB1 on them, to rule out corrosion later down the line- the rubber O-ring seal had deformed (as they do, over time), changed the sensor battery. 

 

I repositioned it, and the magnet higher up, reducing the gap between them. Still nothing. Last thing on the list- the head unit battery... I reasoned that while the display was relatively strong, it might be depleted, and transmission affected-Bingo. Sometimes it’s the little victories. Had this intervention failed, I would’ve switched back to the Cat eye Quick- a remarkably simple model and that’s part of its’ charm.  

My first cycle computer was a wired Cat-Eye Vectra back in Christmas 1988 and I’ve had a particular fondness for the brand since.  Ending on a fond note, here’s my review of the Lazer Chameleon Helmet Lazer Chameleon Helmet | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

Tiramisu, Tyrants & Tubes

My favourite Italian treat was rudely interrupted by talk of deficits. Having explained there was no deficit (aside from the gulf between their perceived entitlement and legally binding reality) I resumed my meal and discussions of great depth and significance. The nature of which, I am not prepared to expand upon at this point. 

Meanwhile, back on the test bench Tubeless tyre systems are gaining popularity, on account of their tuneable, puncture repelling nature. In the same way “clinchers” began rivalling tubulars (Tubs) during the late 80s and 90s, I can see these overtaking high pressure wired-on rubber once conversion kits are perfected.

Tubulars retain a niche following even now. The need for sewing and gluing induces traumatic flashbacks but aside from reduced weight at the crucial points, rims themselves were proportionately much stronger.  Rather like the common cold, preventing punctures has been around since the dawn of pneumatic tyres.

Solid tyres re-emerge every so often and though they have improved slightly since the days I whizzed round the parental driveway astride my rod braked Raleigh Elf;  its disproportionate to price and overall performance.

Assuming you haven’t obliterated rims during the mounting phase and alienated your neighbours with a seamless band of expletives; those I’ve tried deliver a harsh and unforgiving ride that ultimately shakes spokes and fillings loose with consummate ease.

For most of us, dependant upon rim sections it boils down to a choice between bog standard butyl and puncture repelling tyre casings, thorn repellent tubes or the sealant type. All have their pros and cons and to some extent, rather like the glue-less v traditional patch debate; it’s a question of rider faith.

We’re presently putting a series of each through their paces at Seven Day Cyclist (www.sevendaycyclist.co.uk) to see how they perform overall, not just in terms of puncture prevention. Are they limited to asphalt, or can the bigger sections cope with canal path and similarly challenging short cuts…

It’s not difficult to appreciate the allure of a self-healing tube, especially for commuting. When I worked behind the counter, these were a real money-spinner but are the premium pre-filled superior to their budget counterparts? Are these repairable or bin fodder in the event they succumb to a big flint or thorn.  Is it better to fill standard tubes with aftermarket sealant, or buy ready made?

In my experience, the goo-filled genre works to the same basic science. Varying quantities of liquid lay dormant until a small hole appears; internal (air) pressure forces it to the affected area whereupon said sealant (theoretically) plugs the affected area.

Some pressure loss is inevitable and topping up with a hand pump, or Co2 inflator is generally required. Sometimes the latter are required to awaken the latex if it’s been slumbering a while, so don’t leave home without them, even using the most invulnerable tyre casings.

Piercings to a millimetre in diameter are pretty much their limit-hit a series of really nasty thorns, or the proverbial nine-inch nail with your name on it and chances are, you will be mopping up a big sticky mess. Hopefully, you didn’t forget the spare, pump, tyre boot etc and your riding companions will rally round, not laugh like crazed hyenas... Now; time for a batch before I head out for another quick blast along the lanes...

Hot Air

Perhaps I’m in a minority but despite having preferential telephone listings that theoretically prevents invasive cold-call telesales; I am pretty much guaranteed to experience cognitive interruptus while someone reading from a script and on commission-only contract unleashes their sales patter- double glazing, loft insulation, kitchen scrappage (or whatever laxative scheme the present administration can inject into a merely flatulent UK economy).

Thrust from academia back in the mid-1990s into a landscape of immediate starts and media sales, it seems eerily familiar two decades on. Having been one of those battery-grads cruising through a printed call-list, supervisor over one’s shoulder checking to ensure everyone is rigidly conforming to company schpeel; I’m generally compassionate in my decline.

Hard sell artists on the other hand engage my subversive streak, especially as I’ve since discovered there’s a commonly used database linking my landline with an unrelated property several miles away. Often I have sent cocky sales monkeys on fool’s missions in the hope a seamless procession of unwelcome vans bearing solar panels, “installation engineers” and “surveyors” descending on their doorstep might see the penny drop.

Inner tubes tend to be forgotten until we’re assaulted by a heavily patched butyl octopus when sweeping into the garage, or serenaded with the dreaded hiss miles from civilisation, only to discover spares didn’t come along for the ride.  It’s amazing how many will spend good money on a top-flight wheelset for whatever purpose, yet bung in the cheapest, wafer thin, poorly moulded fare with excruciatingly vulnerable valve stems.

Twenty eight years back, Latex tubes were revered by time trialists/road racers (who weren’t necessarily die hard tubular devotees) on account of their low weight and rolling resistance when paired with the best clinchers. Abrasion and therefore, puncture resistance was another feature manufacturers were quick to promote in the era’s cycling press. Not without merit either; since the material tolerates considerable deformity and it’s precisely this fluidity that resists pinch and penetration flatting.

However, since Latex is porous, received wisdom suggested daily (rather than weekly) inflation with narrower, high pressure tyres experiencing greatest losses of pressure. Specialist sealants lining their interior walls supposedly counteract this without blunting performance advantages but then of course, said material has no blocking property so degrades really quickly exposed to extremes of temperature, UV light oils and indeed heat induced during braking. Hmm, seems glaringly obvious why these haven’t become universally adopted.

Goo-filled models certainly fired public imagination, or should I say faith, which is no bad thing if it encourages people to ride more generally. However, green gloop enjoys a lifespan of around six, possibly nine months before losing mobility, or in some instances leaking through the valve stems, leaving trails of mysterious spatter marks.

Admittedly; they’ll owe you nothing if you’ve enjoyed trouble free commutes during this time but very messy should a particularly vindictive sharp burrow home. In common with patch kits, qualities vary and sometimes it boils down to faith/other decidedly “unscientific” stuff.

Whatever your preference, track pumps are probably the most cost and labour saving acquisitions for newbies-enabling optimum pressures with nominal effort, greatly extending tyre life, reducing punctures, improving ride quality/comfort and damage associated with potholes, ruts and similarly destructive surface imperfections.

My first was a Silca unit-all steel with bright orange barrel and lozenge shaped handle. Pressure gauges bore only passing affinity with reality but these were easily and inexpensively rebuilt (mine finally expired after eleven years’ relentless service).

Actually, I part exchanged it with a then local dealer/friend, in favour of a deluxe version sporting longer barrel, smoother piston and wooden handle.  More than adequate for most contexts perhaps but designs have come along immeasurably since with greater refinements, not to mention improved accuracy.

I’ve always run higher end metal models alongside a cheap, yet cheerful composite (back up-more convenient consuming less car space when attending race meets, a week’s cottage based touring escape etc).

However, the trend for loftier designs has been a godsend for efficiency-requiring notably fewer strokes, while overcoming the discomfort of being stooped. Arguably this latter point’s a moot one in two bike households but those with bigger fleets, or taller riders serving as race-service/club mechanics.

Loftier desingns, especially those exceeding 68cm can be a little unstable-so look for a nice, sturdy base. Oh and in these times of terrorist anxiety, be wary about using them on the drive since ignorant passers-by may believe you are preparing to detonate explosives. Absurd-perhaps but alas I’ve already been on the receiving end of such hysteria once this week! Now going to educate myself regarding platforms and other digital/e book structures….