Ta da! Trail & Green Lane fun

Having whipped The Maxxis Ikon aboard Ursula’s Ryde/Alfine Shimano Alfine UR700 Hub Dynamo | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and Sputnik/XT hoops, I took to the backroads, byways, dirt roads and bridlepath and swept myself back in time. Not one I was nostalgic for, rather my construct of the drop bar mountain bike-an all-terrain bike in the literal, purist sense. One conceived while mentally disengaged from an English class in March 1987.  Lightweight, yet rugged, ones that could be ridden beyond the confines of metalled roads and maddening crowds.  

Whoosh! I’ve always revelled in the ability to hop aboard a well-loved, carefully serviced two-wheeled vehicle and leave the world behind. Even if only for an hour, or two. The intoxicating sense of freedom. Increase the cadence, feel the machine respond to your every effort. With the miles come contemplation, reflection, solutions and clarity-although sometimes I need to write these down before they evaporate in a stream of consciousness.  

Much as I expected, the Ikon deliver a responsive, compliant, and engaging ride over dry hardpack and loose surfaces. Be these trails and bridlepath, or unmade roads. Their rolling resistance is quite palpable over metalled roads and I’m glad I put some precautionary goo in a batch of Schrader tubes, mind.  

Being the base model, there’s no puncture-repelling belt. I didn’t want to take the edge off their speed but wanted some added peace of mind.  Theory behind latex/sealant-filled tubes is that rotational forces plus release of pressure traffics the goo to the affected hole.  

Most work on nicks and holes around 1-1.5mm. The downside is a bigger hole, let alone blowout will result in a sticky encounter by the road/trailside. Time and miles will tell whether, and indeed, what contexts this proves an issue.  

A minor point, but I needed to raise the Mud Hugger Evo by a few millimetres to ensure some very necessary added clearance, coming from The Maxxis Overdrive Excel. However, that’s because I’d used these as the mounting template and wanted a super clean aesthetic. My fault for not factoring in a knobbly first-time round.     

Talking of which, long-term, I’m really impressed by the Motoverde PTFE Chain Lube Motoverde PTFE Chain Lube | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) staying prowess, and economy. Sparing is the word when it comes to application. Ditto 12 hour curing times but both Ursula and fixed gear winter/trainer are still sporting theirs, with no sign of reapplication coming. In contexts which have all but dismissed some middleweight wet blends. 

 

Seems to be doing better than several on the cleanliness front too.  Talking of clean, here’s my review of the Weldtite Bike Cleaner Concentrate Weldtite Bike Cleaner Concentrate | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)   

A year and 8,000 all-weather miles down the line, the Souma Leather Handlebar Tape Souma Leather Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) is holding out well. I’ve fed it with a decent quality leather food periodically and being a natural fabric, it has relaxed a little, resulting in slight slippage. Predictably, there’s more patina on Ursula’s, given the off-road ventures. On both bikes, I’ve needed to unwind and re-wrap a few times to allow for this and then of course a couple of cable changes but the backing adhesive is high quality, so no issues.   

Regarding contact points, midway through a 4am ride, I became convinced that the fixed’s top tube or stem were growing like Pinacho's nose. Laughably illogical thought but this kind of stuff creeps in however fleetingly. This was simply attributable to a slackening saddle cradle bolt on its Cane Creek Thudbuster ST G3 TESTED: CANE CREEK THUDBUSTER ST SEATPOST (sevendaycyclist.com). Would explain some low-level but intrusive chatter (which I’d originally attributed to a pump, the Lezyne riding shotgun on he down tube, specifically). Talking of down tubes, I’m a fan of the large PET cages-great for lugging big stuff. No wondering where you’re going to park that 1.5-litre bottle of mineral water you bought mid-ride.   

Topeak Modula range has always caught my eye and I’ve always had a particular soft spot for their Modula XL. The rubberised strap holds different diameters of bottlenecks very securely, eliminating chatter, not to mention ejection over rougher surfaces. Minoura made a similarly innovative model, although that’s been discontinued as the market seems to have moved toward multi-purpose models aimed at bike-packing audiences.  

They look similarly well engineered and I wouldn’t mind acquiring one for testing. Minoura makes some nicely engineered solutions- the VC100 camera mount that graced Ursula’s bars for some time being a case in point.  Back to Topeak and I find myself similarly endeared to their Modula Java Topeak Modula Java Cage | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

Right, time to mix things up a bit- I’m off for some more skinny-tyred fun on the Teenage Dream! John Moss (link) has also been in touch, saying his finished making the calliper mount for a TRP HYRD calliper. Think Ursula will reap those benefits, come the next cable change.   

Roadside Recoveries

 A wet, greasy outing on the fixed gear winter/trainer and my serendipity was rudely pierced by a wet hiss- the front CST Pika had succumbed. I drew alongside a farmhouse which had a decent fence, meaning I could rest the bike upright and tackle the flat. I’d taken delivery of a fresh batch of tubes recently and popped a fresh spare in the Kinekt Waterproof Saddlebag KINEKT WATERPROOF SADDLE BAG | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), so though annoying-one of those things and easily fixed. The rain intensified, which didn’t do much for my mood but off came the wheel, out came the fresh tube, tyre lever and pump was to hand... 

Well, riding shotgun on its bottle mount bracket. I uncoupled it, plugged it on the fresh tube’s Presta valve. The first stroke suggested it had become waterlogged at the valve. I pulled it away and tried again- like the piston had been immersed in treacle. Now, I keep a mini pump stashed away in the wedge pack for such emergencies-pedestrian perhaps, but infinitely preferable to the long walk home.  

Where art thou??? I rummaged. A few seconds later, I’d found it. To no avail though as the new tube would not inflate-flaccid despite three attempts and 3 minutes. I slipped the pump, tubes etc. back into the wedge pack, reinstated the front wheel and ran the 6 miles home. 

 

I switched the tube and rummaging unearthed another decent pump and bracket. It also presented the opportunity to re-grease the fasteners with some Peaty’s Bicycle Assembly Grease Topeak Road, PEATY'S BICYCLE ASSEMBLY GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and I ended up switching the composite Tacx cage for this winged carbon Burls.  

I’d checked the Lezyne HP Drive- a high-pressure model with threaded head and integral analogue gauge beforehand and slipped another micro pump into the wedge pack for emergencies (although I’ve rekindled my attraction to Co2 cartridges for rapid roadside rescue).   

The HP drive is reckoned capable of 125psi, although in my experience 95 is more realistic. Easily up to the job of delivering 70psi- the Pika’s maximum and typical of several commu-touring favourites. The new forks mean 700x33mm (about 1.3 in) is the comfortable maximum and I’d be interested to see how well Maxxis Re-Fuse fare in the real world- they're reckoned to be “The perfect cycle training tyre” and extremely puncture resistant.   

Inflating the wounded tube revealed a tiny hole, so not a valve issue and suggesting it was a flint that had worked into the tyre. Easily patched and left curing overnight, could be added to the good spares pile, or returned to the wedge pack.  

Back to Ursula and someone waved a set of mtb guards designed for 29- inch wheels under my nose for a price that would’ve been stupid to pass up... The rear offers 80mm (about 3.15 in) of coverage at the widest point, which should cater for 2.2 inches without oodles of spatter caking the top, or indeed the rear triangle.  

No issues with compatibility-cantilever brakes, or indeed an SQR bag and the post clamp seems secure. These can wander/slide annoyingly-even some high-end models.  In keeping with my experience of budget models, the plastics are of decent quality, but the fitting kit is where pennies are saved. I had to switch some Allen key fasteners and find a suitable shim for the 25.4 Kinekt 2.1 Aluminium Seat post KINEKT 2.1 SUSPENSION SEAT POST | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). Thankfully I had both, so no issues.  

I had toyed with the idea of cutting down an old 26inch full-length chrome plastic to the seat stay bridge (or a few cm proud), mounting here and at the dropout eyelets. However, I didn’t have a suitable scrapper to make good and doing so would also restrict tyre choice.  

I’ve also been confounded by the Sigma BC9.16 SIGMA BC9.16 ATS WIRELESS CYCLE COMPUTER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) sensor’s refusal to communicate with the head unit.

Ultimately, I cleaned everything, including the contacts. I also sprayed some Muc-Off HCB1 on them, to rule out corrosion later down the line- the rubber O-ring seal had deformed (as they do, over time), changed the sensor battery. 

 

I repositioned it, and the magnet higher up, reducing the gap between them. Still nothing. Last thing on the list- the head unit battery... I reasoned that while the display was relatively strong, it might be depleted, and transmission affected-Bingo. Sometimes it’s the little victories. Had this intervention failed, I would’ve switched back to the Cat eye Quick- a remarkably simple model and that’s part of its’ charm.  

My first cycle computer was a wired Cat-Eye Vectra back in Christmas 1988 and I’ve had a particular fondness for the brand since.  Ending on a fond note, here’s my review of the Lazer Chameleon Helmet Lazer Chameleon Helmet | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)