Roadside Recoveries

 A wet, greasy outing on the fixed gear winter/trainer and my serendipity was rudely pierced by a wet hiss- the front CST Pika had succumbed. I drew alongside a farmhouse which had a decent fence, meaning I could rest the bike upright and tackle the flat. I’d taken delivery of a fresh batch of tubes recently and popped a fresh spare in the Kinekt Waterproof Saddlebag KINEKT WATERPROOF SADDLE BAG | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), so though annoying-one of those things and easily fixed. The rain intensified, which didn’t do much for my mood but off came the wheel, out came the fresh tube, tyre lever and pump was to hand... 

Well, riding shotgun on its bottle mount bracket. I uncoupled it, plugged it on the fresh tube’s Presta valve. The first stroke suggested it had become waterlogged at the valve. I pulled it away and tried again- like the piston had been immersed in treacle. Now, I keep a mini pump stashed away in the wedge pack for such emergencies-pedestrian perhaps, but infinitely preferable to the long walk home.  

Where art thou??? I rummaged. A few seconds later, I’d found it. To no avail though as the new tube would not inflate-flaccid despite three attempts and 3 minutes. I slipped the pump, tubes etc. back into the wedge pack, reinstated the front wheel and ran the 6 miles home. 

 

I switched the tube and rummaging unearthed another decent pump and bracket. It also presented the opportunity to re-grease the fasteners with some Peaty’s Bicycle Assembly Grease Topeak Road, PEATY'S BICYCLE ASSEMBLY GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and I ended up switching the composite Tacx cage for this winged carbon Burls.  

I’d checked the Lezyne HP Drive- a high-pressure model with threaded head and integral analogue gauge beforehand and slipped another micro pump into the wedge pack for emergencies (although I’ve rekindled my attraction to Co2 cartridges for rapid roadside rescue).   

The HP drive is reckoned capable of 125psi, although in my experience 95 is more realistic. Easily up to the job of delivering 70psi- the Pika’s maximum and typical of several commu-touring favourites. The new forks mean 700x33mm (about 1.3 in) is the comfortable maximum and I’d be interested to see how well Maxxis Re-Fuse fare in the real world- they're reckoned to be “The perfect cycle training tyre” and extremely puncture resistant.   

Inflating the wounded tube revealed a tiny hole, so not a valve issue and suggesting it was a flint that had worked into the tyre. Easily patched and left curing overnight, could be added to the good spares pile, or returned to the wedge pack.  

Back to Ursula and someone waved a set of mtb guards designed for 29- inch wheels under my nose for a price that would’ve been stupid to pass up... The rear offers 80mm (about 3.15 in) of coverage at the widest point, which should cater for 2.2 inches without oodles of spatter caking the top, or indeed the rear triangle.  

No issues with compatibility-cantilever brakes, or indeed an SQR bag and the post clamp seems secure. These can wander/slide annoyingly-even some high-end models.  In keeping with my experience of budget models, the plastics are of decent quality, but the fitting kit is where pennies are saved. I had to switch some Allen key fasteners and find a suitable shim for the 25.4 Kinekt 2.1 Aluminium Seat post KINEKT 2.1 SUSPENSION SEAT POST | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). Thankfully I had both, so no issues.  

I had toyed with the idea of cutting down an old 26inch full-length chrome plastic to the seat stay bridge (or a few cm proud), mounting here and at the dropout eyelets. However, I didn’t have a suitable scrapper to make good and doing so would also restrict tyre choice.  

I’ve also been confounded by the Sigma BC9.16 SIGMA BC9.16 ATS WIRELESS CYCLE COMPUTER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) sensor’s refusal to communicate with the head unit.

Ultimately, I cleaned everything, including the contacts. I also sprayed some Muc-Off HCB1 on them, to rule out corrosion later down the line- the rubber O-ring seal had deformed (as they do, over time), changed the sensor battery. 

 

I repositioned it, and the magnet higher up, reducing the gap between them. Still nothing. Last thing on the list- the head unit battery... I reasoned that while the display was relatively strong, it might be depleted, and transmission affected-Bingo. Sometimes it’s the little victories. Had this intervention failed, I would’ve switched back to the Cat eye Quick- a remarkably simple model and that’s part of its’ charm.  

My first cycle computer was a wired Cat-Eye Vectra back in Christmas 1988 and I’ve had a particular fondness for the brand since.  Ending on a fond note, here’s my review of the Lazer Chameleon Helmet Lazer Chameleon Helmet | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

Cagey

 This Super Sparrow lightweight thermos bottle arrived and having established incompatibility with broadly standard, composite cages, I decided it was time to revisit Ursula’s downtube setup. I’d gone for the Fidlock Magnetic bottle holder TESTED: FIDLOCK MAGNETIC BOTTLE HOLDER AND BOTTLE (sevendaycyclist.com) and popped a chain checker there- a talking point for some, while still leaving me scope to mount a couple of composite cages on the underside and seat tube.  

This didn’t overly impair my ability to carry water/similar fluids. Now, I’m very fond of the Topeak Modula XL and the now discontinued BBB Fuel Tank XL LONG-TERM TWELVE MONTH TEST: BBB FUEL TANK BOTTLE CAGE (sevendaycyclist.com) cages, since you could whack a 1.5 litre bottle of mineral water, or indeed a similar soft drink in situ, without fear of their ejection (or indeed, knackering a traditional cage).  

However, they will often prevent mounting one on the seat tube. The Free Parable Monkkii Cage FREE PARABLE MONKII CAGE REVIEW (sevendaycyclist.com) is another useful choice, provided you’re not lugging too much weight. 1.2 kilos (as distinct from the 1.5 kilos cited) which should entertain a full 750ml (about 25.36 oz) flask or bottle. An obvious “from the box” solution. I’ve hauled disposable Argon/Co2 welding gas bottles in them, although placed some bubble wrap between cage and bottle to rule out any potential dings in Ursula’s down tube.  

However, to my astonishment, both the BBB and Topeak were too roomy to hold the (bottle) securely. After some rummaging through the cage stash, I whittled it down to a Van Nicholas titanium (Elite Ciussi pattern), a side entry Zefal and this Boardman winged carbon fibre design.  

Lo and behold, the Boardman won!  The main issue with the 6061 and Ti models boiled down to scratching the bottle’s finish. I’d bound some old bar tape around the Van Nicolas and strangely enough, that spark of inspiration proved fruitful.  

Then, along came this Topeak Modula Java.  

It’s an adjustable composite model, which on paper should lug the thermos in question without missing a beat, or launching it mortar style at the first hint of lumpy trail. I also received the brands’ Gravel 2 Stage Mini Pump, which as the name might suggest has two modes- high volume and high pressure, so you can recover from a flat efficiently.  

90psi is top whack but aluminium construction bodes well for longevity and means it stands a sporting chance of hitting these pressures. In some respects, mini and midi pumps have ruled the roost for good reason. Aside from supporting a clean aesthetic, being stashable in a jersey pocket, or bigger wedge pack means the valve end needn’t get caked in crud.  

Many road-biased riders use Co2 as their first line of defence, pump second. Makes sense, especially if you’re needing lofty pressures, although bear in mind you will need to reinflate given though Co2 will rescue you, it will escape butyl much faster, so expect to be busy with a track pump the next day, as they’ll be close to pancake flat. Many mini-pumps will genuinely achieve road realistic pressures too, although, around the 100psi mark, my biceps have felt close to comedic explosion.  

I still have firm fondness for Lezyne Micro Floor Drive HVG (High Volume) and high-pressure models, which resemble track pumps that have been put through a matter-shrinking device. CNC machined construction marries strength and great looks but they’re around 216g (including mount) and on mine (c. 2015) their composite mounts felt a little whippy, meaning the head could rattle against the seat or down tubes “Woodpecker” fashion when riding across washboard tarmac and of course, dirt roads.  

Placing “helicopter” tape, such as this Zefal Z Armor ZEFAL SKIN ARMOR ROLL | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  over those areas of the frameset will deaden this, while protecting it from potential finish damage. Talking of protectants, I’ve been pleasantly surprised by how well the Weldtite Rapid Ceramic restored the anodised finish on Ursula’s faithful Lezyne Tech Drive HP pump.    

 

In my book, frame fit pumps still have their place and hugely different from the giveaway models sold with complete road and touring bikes 20-30 years ago. The sort that might deliver 60psi with herculean effort before locking out uselessly, or worse still succumb to a bent piston.  

Steve and I are very fond of the Zefal HPX High Pressure Frame PumpZEFAL HPX HIGH PRESSURE FRAME PUMP | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  and I find them aesthetically pleasing on an older steel-tubed road/touring build. These tend to be Presta but could tackle a Schrader valve, more commonly found on trailers/tagalongs with an adaptor, like that belonging to the Merida multi-tool I’ve resurrected.  

Then of course, there’s the Specialized that I acquired back in the late 90s and ultimately euthanised itself beneath the wheels of a passing double-decker London bus. I was offered one recently that “appeared to be working” and mine for £44. I laughed like a hyena and went about my business. In common with Kirk Precision framesets and of course, Specialized’s Rock Combo, I’d give it a loving home but not paying fancy prices.