Cagey

 This Super Sparrow lightweight thermos bottle arrived and having established incompatibility with broadly standard, composite cages, I decided it was time to revisit Ursula’s downtube setup. I’d gone for the Fidlock Magnetic bottle holder TESTED: FIDLOCK MAGNETIC BOTTLE HOLDER AND BOTTLE (sevendaycyclist.com) and popped a chain checker there- a talking point for some, while still leaving me scope to mount a couple of composite cages on the underside and seat tube.  

This didn’t overly impair my ability to carry water/similar fluids. Now, I’m very fond of the Topeak Modula XL and the now discontinued BBB Fuel Tank XL LONG-TERM TWELVE MONTH TEST: BBB FUEL TANK BOTTLE CAGE (sevendaycyclist.com) cages, since you could whack a 1.5 litre bottle of mineral water, or indeed a similar soft drink in situ, without fear of their ejection (or indeed, knackering a traditional cage).  

However, they will often prevent mounting one on the seat tube. The Free Parable Monkkii Cage FREE PARABLE MONKII CAGE REVIEW (sevendaycyclist.com) is another useful choice, provided you’re not lugging too much weight. 1.2 kilos (as distinct from the 1.5 kilos cited) which should entertain a full 750ml (about 25.36 oz) flask or bottle. An obvious “from the box” solution. I’ve hauled disposable Argon/Co2 welding gas bottles in them, although placed some bubble wrap between cage and bottle to rule out any potential dings in Ursula’s down tube.  

However, to my astonishment, both the BBB and Topeak were too roomy to hold the (bottle) securely. After some rummaging through the cage stash, I whittled it down to a Van Nicholas titanium (Elite Ciussi pattern), a side entry Zefal and this Boardman winged carbon fibre design.  

Lo and behold, the Boardman won!  The main issue with the 6061 and Ti models boiled down to scratching the bottle’s finish. I’d bound some old bar tape around the Van Nicolas and strangely enough, that spark of inspiration proved fruitful.  

Then, along came this Topeak Modula Java.  

It’s an adjustable composite model, which on paper should lug the thermos in question without missing a beat, or launching it mortar style at the first hint of lumpy trail. I also received the brands’ Gravel 2 Stage Mini Pump, which as the name might suggest has two modes- high volume and high pressure, so you can recover from a flat efficiently.  

90psi is top whack but aluminium construction bodes well for longevity and means it stands a sporting chance of hitting these pressures. In some respects, mini and midi pumps have ruled the roost for good reason. Aside from supporting a clean aesthetic, being stashable in a jersey pocket, or bigger wedge pack means the valve end needn’t get caked in crud.  

Many road-biased riders use Co2 as their first line of defence, pump second. Makes sense, especially if you’re needing lofty pressures, although bear in mind you will need to reinflate given though Co2 will rescue you, it will escape butyl much faster, so expect to be busy with a track pump the next day, as they’ll be close to pancake flat. Many mini-pumps will genuinely achieve road realistic pressures too, although, around the 100psi mark, my biceps have felt close to comedic explosion.  

I still have firm fondness for Lezyne Micro Floor Drive HVG (High Volume) and high-pressure models, which resemble track pumps that have been put through a matter-shrinking device. CNC machined construction marries strength and great looks but they’re around 216g (including mount) and on mine (c. 2015) their composite mounts felt a little whippy, meaning the head could rattle against the seat or down tubes “Woodpecker” fashion when riding across washboard tarmac and of course, dirt roads.  

Placing “helicopter” tape, such as this Zefal Z Armor ZEFAL SKIN ARMOR ROLL | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  over those areas of the frameset will deaden this, while protecting it from potential finish damage. Talking of protectants, I’ve been pleasantly surprised by how well the Weldtite Rapid Ceramic restored the anodised finish on Ursula’s faithful Lezyne Tech Drive HP pump.    

 

In my book, frame fit pumps still have their place and hugely different from the giveaway models sold with complete road and touring bikes 20-30 years ago. The sort that might deliver 60psi with herculean effort before locking out uselessly, or worse still succumb to a bent piston.  

Steve and I are very fond of the Zefal HPX High Pressure Frame PumpZEFAL HPX HIGH PRESSURE FRAME PUMP | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  and I find them aesthetically pleasing on an older steel-tubed road/touring build. These tend to be Presta but could tackle a Schrader valve, more commonly found on trailers/tagalongs with an adaptor, like that belonging to the Merida multi-tool I’ve resurrected.  

Then of course, there’s the Specialized that I acquired back in the late 90s and ultimately euthanised itself beneath the wheels of a passing double-decker London bus. I was offered one recently that “appeared to be working” and mine for £44. I laughed like a hyena and went about my business. In common with Kirk Precision framesets and of course, Specialized’s Rock Combo, I’d give it a loving home but not paying fancy prices.  

Gripped

The weather is showing some signs of a spring-like renaissance, which is nice, since I now have the Teenage Dream running like, well, the machine I remember so fondly. Discovered the front hub had a little play, so eradicated that and then investigated some boxes that had been left in a corner of the garage since moving.  

Much to my delight, I found a mixed bundle of better-quality tubes –700x18-25 and mid-section 23-40. All packet, so I’ve added those to the appropriate clear storage box and one apiece to the wedge packs. I’ve also decided to switch the Teenage Dream’s PDW (Portland Design Works) Big Silver Road Pump for this Lezyne Road drive Alloy Mini Pump.  

A few millimeters shy of 300, both are best described as midi, rather than mini pumps and in my experience, the PDW has an edge on the resuscitation speed and pressure fronts. However, I’ve found the bracket tenure a little less than ideal, so incremental creep has seen it shuffling down and “wood-peckering” the front mech. Distracting and unwelcome.

  

Interestingly, the Lezyne proved a better guest in the Portland’s bracket, so stays for now. I’ll be carrying CO2 cartridges along though, since I don’t fancy trying to deliver 110psi plus into the bikes’ 700x25c following a flat, although hopefully these will be infrequent, warded off by the pump, tubes, and similar rescue apparel. One thing led to another, and I began foraging for lights.  

Not that it’ll be seeing the depths of winter, but a compact 450/500lumen unit with backing singer and a decent rear blinky are wise precautions from a seen-with perspective, especially enjoying summer evenings. Time flies and light fades when you’re having fun... 

For the time being, I’ll alternate between this Moon Meteor and Bontrager Ion 350 RT front lights, although the Ravemen LR500S front light RAVEMEN LR500S FRONT LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) has a bit more clout, thanks to clever lens technology. Chances are I’ll be running them in their frugal flashing modes but a bit more oomph is always useful.  

I found an old but very worthy AA cell model for hanging on the wedge pack and an Oxford Ultra torch Mini+ USB Rear Light 15lm. The latter is a five-mode (one steady, four flashing) rear light that is a good bit brighter than the numbers alone might suggest.  

It's small enough not to interrupt the clean aesthetic. Was never totally convinced the Fuschia pink Knog wireless computer sensor was the best fit aesthetically, but never so offensive as to induce change. Mid rummage, I unearthed a black counterpart, so fed it a new LR44 button cell and swapped them over. 

Minor cosmetic stuff but worth doing, since I was there. It communicates very well with the elderly but very solid decathlon head unit. Not that I would advocate the “Frankenpute” route but I’ve had a few that have performed very reliably. 

Several weeks down the line, Ursula’s shifting had suddenly gone a little “off”. I knew the chain, cassette, ring and derailleur were fine but suspected the cassette’s lock-ring needed snugging down slightly. Job done; I stripped the Weldtite Ceramic, with a liberal helping of Muc-Off High Pressure Quick Drying Degreaser Chain & Cassette MUC-OFF HIGH PRESSURE DEGREASER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) Zefal Extra Dry Chain Wax ZEFAL EXTRA DRY CHAIN WAX | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  was the substitute of choice. I also honed the front Genetic CX Cantilever TEST & REVIEW: GENETIC CX CANTILEVER BRAKES (sevendaycyclist.com)   for some additional bite, since opportunity presented.  

A week later and I’d forgotten that wet roads can have a zapping effect upon more traditional wax lubes. Nothing that wasn’t cured, once the flaking residual wax had been reclaimed, and worked into the chain.  

Zefal have also very kindly sent me some luggage- The Z Adventure C2 and Z Adventure C3. These took longer than expected since one carrier refused to bring them into the UK. Much of Brexit’s impact is being hidden by the pandemic but is presently “knee-capping" the UK economy.    

At 2.2 litres, the Adventure C2 is arguably a better fit on a bigger frameset, where it can cosy up against the headtube. However, Zefal also suggests it can be mounted in other ways. I think it complements the Univega quite well, doesn’t obscure the down tube bottle cage/bosses.  

The C2 is water-resistant, rather than proof, so will be interesting to see how it fares on wetter rides, not to mention my garden hose torture testing...  Testing aside, I’ll go with a dry sack to seal the elements out, full stop.