Shakedowns but no breakdowns...

 

Forty miles in, Ursula and I were bonding very nicely. Then, to my surprise (and good fortune, since this struck 2.5 miles from home) I glanced down to discover the left-hand crank was creeping off. No 10mm Allen key on the multi-tool meant nursing us back, minimising contact with the left side. Having returned, I whipped out 10mm, 5mm Allen keys and of course, trusty torque wrench. I can only imagine things stretched during the formative outings. Pre-load faffed and ultimately everything rejoined and behaving to type, I pondered some more pre-winter prep.  

The recent wet roads had me thinking I should add a protective butyl boot to Denise’s lower headset race. I decided rounding up the tools and taking a decision from there was the best route. Before I knew it, I’d plunged in head-first and met a few surprises. The quill converter had become mysteriously stuck. Nothing a quick tap with a rubber mallet didn’t solve (although I still needed to tap the expander wedge free- a long flat screwdriver and controlled nudge from the mallet fixed this).   

Everything else came apart easily and ample Juice Lubes Bearing Grease clung to the bearings and races. Fork out, I slid the butyl over the head tube and rolled it up. Another quick lick of grease to the lower balls, I reinstated fork and mysteriously had the headset adjustment bang on first time.  

Reassembling the quill adaptor, I added some of the Oxford Assembly Grease to hopefully subvert and further episodes of stubbornness (adaptors are prone to seizing). Same went for the hardware. While the Juice Lubes Bearing Juice is a synthetic, putty type formulation, I applied a quick shot of Muc Off Silicone Spray to the underside of the tube, to help it glide over the headset.  

 

Allowing for the fact I geustimated, rather than measured the length of tube, the coverage is precisely as I wanted it and should, with the added helping of grease, lock the elements out. Lizard Skins and others used to produce neoprene covers, but unless removed every wet ride, could cause moisture to get inside.  

 

Old inner tubes are plentiful and could even be scrounged from your friendly local bike shop. It’s tempting to strip the crankset come next chain replacement and treat the axle to some Peaty’s Speed Grease (for the last word in low friction) but the Wolf Tooth is a premium blend and seems highly effective thus far. Will be interesting to see how it fares against winter’s witches’ brew.  

 

Staying with pleasant surprises, I was sent another set of the WTB Nano, not the TCS tubeless ready versions this time. Their UK importer tells me these are the 120tpi versions employing their SG2 puncture repelling belt that runs bead to bead, so will be interesting to see how they cope in this regard during the darker months.  Aside from gravel and indeed “more adventurous touring” they’re also aimed at cyclo cross audiences and, given their “most conditions” persona, it’s not difficult to see how the genres ahem, cross-over. I’ve found them surprisingly good in gloopy UK mud, but again we’ll see how this translates through a mulchy mucky British winter.  40mm wide, they’re going to be a little portly for more traditional ‘cross bikes, which can typically swallow 32-35mm, 38 if we’re talking a slick commuting/touring tyre for off season’s road duties. 

  

Despite the rise in popularity these past twenty years, cross meets still have a very eclectic flavour. Sure, there are packet fresh disc equipped carbon fibre bling machines but plenty of traditional cross bikes, repurposed tourers and indeed, mountain bikes looping the circuits. Single-speed transmissions keep things rugged and reliable, provided you’re prepared to stick with something around 63 inches…  

 

There are a few folks who also brave it on a fixed. I can see the appeal, but as I say, very much a niche thing. On-One’s Mulo might be a prime candidate. There’s clearance for 43mm tyres without tickling the chainstays and you could either run it with a disc up front or go the old school cantilever route.  

 

The latter are again, still very popular. Lightweight, simple and still relatively effective, set up correctly, with decent quality pads and cables.  Standard cables with PTFE linings and stainless-steel inner wires are good staples, although the jump between these and more elite, sometimes sealed systems, such as the Jagwire Road Elite is very palpable.  

 

Aside from the fit n’ forget weather sealing, the inner wires are extremely high quality, thus virtually zero stretch and very tolerant of fine tuning. I’ve set ours up and removed them from Ursula’s callipers with no signs of compression, let alone fraying. Braking is very progressive, stiction free, but again, I’d expect so at this end of the market and again, I’ll see what impact if any, winter has upon their stopping prowess.  

 

Transfil Flying Snakes were another solid (and much cheaper) choice on the sealed front, but fitting was more involved and cable rub could be an issue if you hadn’t used the little protectors or applied some helicopter tape to the head tube and other areas where the outers sit, or brush against the frame. Right, I’ll leave it here with my review of the  Magicshine See Me 50 Mag Light Magicshine SeeMee50 MAG Light | cycling-not-racing 

Root of the Problem

Last week began with, what I suspected, was a dental abscess. This was confirmed by my dentist, He also confirmed my other hunch. 

That the only means of saving, what remained of the crowned tooth, was root canal surgery. Elsewhere, with the nights drawing in, it was time for a quick pre-winter check of the fleet.

Testing of the Vee Tire Co Zilent MK2 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/vee-tire-co-zilent-mark-2-tyres , I reinstated the Soma Shikoro https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/s  and pulled my working fixed’s brake cable through. Pad wear was making itself known. Though there looks to be a few month’s life in them, replacements were ordered. TRP Spyre are by far, the best cable operated disc brake I’ve used to date.

Hydraulic systems are delightful and most modern types automatically adjust to compensate for pad wear. An obvious choice for ‘cross racing and endurance events.  Despite their considerable charms (not to mention, refinement) I love the simplicity of a cable-operated model. Ooooh, then again…TRP Hylex looks perfect for my antics and the bike’s design brief…

Reminds self of dental bills, expiring car components, camera bodies. Lectures self on the difference between want and need. Been an expensive month, with one thing and another.

Despite disc braking’s understandable dominance, there’s a lot to be said in favour of the humble cantilever, especially in a ‘cross context. The Genetic CX https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-cx-cantilever-brakes , have proved particularly cheerful. However, wide arm designs and smaller semi/compact geometry framesets can be a tricky combination. True, smaller riders tend to have proportionally sized feet, so heel clearance is less crucial.  That said; they can also foul four-point racks and panniers.

Staying with these themes, I was also surprised to discover, during my pre-winter inspection, that its bottle cage had mysteriously fractured. Closer scrutiny suggested the composite monocoque had succumbed to a strange fatigue, I was literally able to bend the winged sections backwards.

This kind of fatigue is something I’d associate with several years’ exposure to harsh UV light. A complete mystery. Aside from very warm summer rides; said bike is always stored in a cool, dry space within the house.

Net effect, I have substituted it for this VEL SE (Side Entry) model https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/vel-se . These are also designed to optimise space within smaller main triangles, thus permitting two full sized bottles. Its Tacx radar counterpart, on the down tube is also technically a side entry model. In the sense bottles can be inserted and released at an angle. However, its much closer to a conventional cage. A solid and reliable option, it lacks the space saving efficiency, of the Vel, or indeed Lezyne Flow.     

Cleats are another component all too easily overlooked. After a good year’s faithful service, my genuine Shimano were showing their age. Release was becoming a little too easy. These ISSI popped out at me, while I was rummaging in the kitchen drawer for some AAA batteries. In the zone, following Sunday’s post blast check, one set released effortlessly.

False sense of security flowing through my every fibre, I tackled the other shoe. Once again; the first relented, given a firm twist of the 4mm tool bit. However, the second fastener was clearly made from cheese.

Impacted detritus clearly didn’t help but it was so soft, deforming with unsettling ease. A blast of penetrant spray and a bigger Torx bit, provided enough bite, and clean extraction. Nonetheless, my cordless drill was placed on charge…

While there is no doubting the quality of Shimano, I have always found patterns reliable and generally long-lived. By the same token, were I doing a big tour, especially beyond these shores, I’d stick with big S, simply on grounds of spares availability

Buxom Bars & Lighter Lubes

These Soma Fabrications Condor flared drop bars arrived among a consignment of delightful Soma goodies. Now, I like big flared drops for cross and other, dirt biased riding. WTB mountain drop and On-One Midge being my two, favourite patterns.

The condor is made from shot-peened 6061 T6 aluminium alloy. I’m deceptively broad across the shoulder for my height and build, so have gone for the extra-large (44/49cm), still slightly narrower than the Midge.

However, the medium is 40/45cm, large 42/47cm. The smaller number denotes the c-c width i.e. measured between the hoods.  Look closer and you’ll notice it’s pattern is a hybrid of riser and compact drop bar.

Now, in common with the other two, the condor’s shallow drop supposedly allows more time riding the drops.  Little surprise that they’re marketed at touring, bike packing and gravel riding audiences.

Apparently, rotating them accentuates certain characteristics to suit personal preference. I deliberately avoided my “Child at Easter” urges to strip and fit, to my fixed gear winter/trainer’s cockpit- immediately.

I had higher priorities and wanted to avoid (a) Rushing the fit (b) forgetting to weigh them and having to strip bar tape, brake levers, lighting and other goodies, later. Soma cite the weight as 320g, ours tipped the scales at 348g.

I’m generally indifferent to black/dun finishes. Thankfully and in common with the WTB, this is a good quality one. The sort that resists accidental marking, say when fitting/adjusting brake levers, rotating them in the stem.

Any adjustment/component change tends to feel different, often an improvement psychologically. Formative impressions are of a higher position, my hands defaulting to the drops, as opposed to cruising atop the hoods.

Not that the oversized midge could be described as springy, However, the Condor’s increased rigidity is very apparent, especially when climbing out of the saddle. Powering up a climb, superior stiffness permits effort to be channelled into cadence, which can make all the difference, when you’re forced to rely on a single gear ratio.

The Condor’s curved, swoopy profiles still offer a reasonable amount of useable parking space for lights, computer, action camera etc. However, the Trelock Ls960i switch https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/trelock-ls960i-dynamo-front-light isn’t oversized. Thus, it needs to sit where the bar narrows and consequently, at a slight angle. Operationally, this isn’t an issue but something to consider, if you’re porting clamps/brackets of similar diameter over.

The inexpensive, though high performing BBB BHT 14 flexribbon gel bar tape https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/bbb-bht-14-flexribbon-gel-bar-tape  could’ve been reused but I had some very fetching Lizard Skins DSP 2.5mm, doing something close to nothing.

They grey swirl effect also compliments the build’s colour scheme handsomely.  A phantom squeak was traced to the otherwise loveable Revolution Ritchey copies, so a quick game of lucky dip in the spares drawer, sees them substituted for these single-sided Shimano PD A520 pedals. Tiagra by another name, these are a sporty platform type. Greater support but without the ground clearance hassles and the versatility offered by recessed SPD cleats.  

Holdsworth aside, all my fleet feature slightly flared drops. This sea change started when I was introduced to the On-One midge back in 2005. This wasn’t love at first feel but within a matter of rides, I was warming to them.

Upgrading to the increasingly standard (oversized) diameter was a good move. The 25.4, though great for drop bar retro mtb builds/conversions, felt whippy by comparison. I sold these on to a good home, 18months back.

Leverage and to some extent control, are the main benefits of a wider/flared bar. Hence their particular appeal, on a rough stuff tourer cum trailer tug. However, they also open the chest cavity, which is quite helpful when tackling steeper ascents, especially on the fixed.

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The wild and weird weather hasn’t relented on these shores, which is perfect for testing tyres., chain lubes, mudguards and pretty much anything else, really. Talking of which; I’ve racked up 225 extremely wet miles from a single application of Finish Line Ceramic wet.

 

 

Thankfully, it can be reapplied with minimal prep and without curing period. A definite plus, should topping up be required mid ride, or needing to head out, sharpish. However, since the weather is turning milder, more spring-like, I have switched to Finish Line 1step cleaner and lubricant.

I’ve used its aerosol variant in the past to reasonable effect. Convenience is the main draw. The solvent component will consume any residual chain lubricant (although some stiffer ceramic/wet formulas require a more voracious solvent cleaning first).

When this evaporates, the low friction lubricant layer is left behind. Aerosols use a solvent to make them sprayable, coupled with a butane propellent. Great for channelling it into those hard to reach areas, such as sticky mechanisms/cables, or even loosening rusted/lightly corroded contact points.

The bottle version requires a swift shake to mix the formula and chains a quick wipe afterward. Despite being a dropper type, the super runny mixture means it will go everywhere and is best deployed using their no drip chain luber. Doubling up i.e. leaving it a few minutes between coats, adds a more substantial and ultimately durable layer.  

Forget about cheeky topping up indoors, for this and very flammable, reasons. If you have pets, or small children, wash down any residual stuff too. While cats in particular, will give anything noxious, or petrochemical based a wide berth, they can still succumb to poisoning. The most common cause being traces of product sticking to their fur. Cats will lick this, ingesting the poison and can be fatal.    

I found the Crankalicious pineapple crush concentrate, agitated with a stiff bristled brush perfect for speedy dismissal.    

Looking forward to bringing the Holdsworth out of hibernation over the coming weeks. Feeling the need for some serious, flat out, point to point blasts.