Courting Controversy

 

My bars, although particularly Ursula’s Soma Condor II Shallow Drop Bars SOMA CONDOR 2 SHALLOW DROP BARS | (sevendaycyclist.com) court quite a lot of online attention. I had someone get unexpectedly excited about my choice of brake levers, convinced that I am running a dual cable “tandem” model.  

Amusing, since they’re cheap but decidedly cheerful Tektro RL340. There are several benefits to a two-in-one system, such as Dia Compe BRS 400. Tandems, trikes and other specialist builds aside, they can greatly improve the comfort and control for people with reduced hand strength/degenerative conditions.  

Others have failed to grasp that I am running a bar end, not Brifter, and critical about cable emerging from the bar tape. I have taken the more traditional, direct route, so the cable appears from the drops, rather than tops. A more efficient cable run rewards with snappier shifting. Now, I can appreciate the draw of a clean aesthetic, hence I run “aero”, rather than traditional brake levers (where cables exit the tops in a wide arc).  

Makes rummaging in handlebar bags much easier. However, the non-aero type produces a more efficient cable run and make roadside replacements that bit easier. Some models, including Campagnolo Athena (c.1990/91) were reversible, depending upon taste, you could run them aero, or traditional. Indeed, these were the Teenage Dream’s original stoppers-commanding Athena single pivot side pulls., in case curiosity got the better of you.  

Ursula and I spotted some interesting clearings and designated bridleways too. It would’ve been rude not to explore, before returning home to strip the Momum MIC Dry Chain Lube and start testing the Green Oil Dry Chain Wax.  

I’ll end with this fabulous video documenting someone’s home brewed single wheel bike trailer. (599) DIY Bike Bicycle Trailer Build - Part 1 Video Tutorial | Welding and Fabrication - YouTube 

Building bike trailers (I couldn’t afford a Bob Yak/similar back in the late 90s) was the catalyst for me learning to weld. Looking back on it, I would’ve gone the scrap frame route- an old Peugeot Carbolite 103, since these are relatively light, yet very tolerant of being MIG welded. I opted for very thin Columbus, which was much trickier to work with. Sometimes it's not the mistakes we make, but rather what we learn from them.    

 

Condor Man

No, not the 1981 Disney flop, starring Michael Crawford, although  we do live in very strange times... After a morning's admin and housework, I was suddenly gripped by a flash of inspiration. The sort so bright, it risks a nasty case of arc eye.  

I decided to ditch the Univega's long serving moustache bars in favour of the Soma Condor. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/soma According to my thought processes (I hadn't reached calculations, or anything so rational), the riser sections would provide sufficient height for me to spend the majority of my time on the drops... 

With this in mind, the Soma Condor 2  https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/soma-condor-2-shallow-drop-bars  might've seemed a more obvious choice. However, though I'd run both, briefly on my tubby tourer, to assess Soma's claims (which were realised in the real world) the moustache bars had become something of an institution...I'd also convinced myself they had an edge, when on trailer tugging duties.  

I'd also earmarked the MK1 for a gravel-specific project and the MK2 for my fixed gear winter trainer. Then came the Genetic D-Riser 16   https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-d-riser-bars  and another round of musical handlebars. Besides, the Univega has a predominantly black/dun colour scheme. Contrary chap that I am, I may switch to the Condor 2, later on, should the urge strike. For now, the Condor's black finish clinched it. 

Spare inner and outer cables-check, spare bar tape-check, electrical tape-check. This was also an ideal opportunity to give this Soma Woodie 20 Multi-tool a formative test. Strictly speaking, multi-tools are designed for road/trailside teaks/tuning and repair, not workshop use. However, they are super-convenient, so good ones tend to become go-tos. 

Within half an hour, I'd everything rounded up, bike in the stand and components stripped. I'd removed a shim or two, when switching back to the Univega's OEM triple butted fork, but close scrutiny suggested height and drop depth were textbook. 

I pruned some outer cable housing, fed a new inner wire to the front Genetic CX cantilever  https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-cx-cantilever-brakes and dialled it in a bit. Ample bite to raise the rear wheel, lever grabbed in anger-perfect.  

I was able to recycle this Lizard Skins DSP 2.5mm https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/lizard-skins-dsp which was of sufficient length to provide ample, cushioned coverage. The adhesive backing was conspicuous by its absence, although adhered well, to the bars' shot peened finish. 

Decent quality electrical tape anchored it to the tops.  Having dialled in the rear mech again and pruned its cable, it was time for one last once-over and a 20mile fault finding blast. 

No faults to find-positioning absolutely bang on and as I'd always envisaged back in 1987, when I first clapped eves on a Muddy Fox trailblazer. The Trail Blazer was essentially a drop bar mountain bike with  bar end shifters and 1.75 section tyres.  

Specialized followed suit two years later, with the Rock Combo. These were similarly niche, and had a very short production run.  Feel free to get in touch, if you still own and ride one. I'm not looking to purchase, nor am I someone bitten by "classic" prices and groupsets have come a long way since. However, I loved the concept then, and still do.    

Anyhow, the Univega's positioning now means I default to the drops, affords better protection from the wind (Compared with the otherwise likeable moustache pattern) while retaining good control off road. Tops also provide superior parking space for lights, cameras and similar creature comforts.   

Talking of which, I've also switched saddles, this time to BBB Echelon, which is reputedly a road and trail friendly design, thus meets the criteria handsomely. Also proved the ideal opportunity to remove the seatpost, and treat it to some Park Tool Polylube 1000 Grease, before the darker months set in. 

A home-brewed butyl collar and full length chrome plastic guards/fenders (depending on where you're reading this) certainly help, but its one of those little, preventative measures that saves a lot of time and hassle, later on.