Showing posts with label Hybrid. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hybrid. Show all posts

Saturday, 24 December 2022

Minus 6 & Winter Mindfulness













 By UK standards, it’s felt bitterly cold for the past few weeks. The Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro and their 240-spike Schwalbe Winter Plus counterparts have been making riding through sheet ice and snowy lanes realistic and relatively pleasant 

I’d resurrected my Vanguard Belgian style cap and lined these laminated, wind and waterproof gloves with the Specialized liners. Even so, the biting cold had been nibbling at my digits, urging me to maintain a brisk tempo, especially on the return leg.  


It’s thawed since, but despite the conditions, Ursula remained surprisingly clean, thanks in no small part to mudguards (fenders to those of you in the US/Canada). Surprising how much difference they make, so if you’re riding in winter, fit them where possible. My expander wedge solution to Ursula’s front guard mounting required some minor revision.

 

Some play had developed, eradicated by adding two 2mm composite Aheadset spacers, providing the top cap with something to lodge against. One from Ursula’s stem-replaced with a blue anodised aluminium example. The other from my small parts pot   


Clip-on designs have come a long way too, these Mud Hugger  https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/mud-hugger-gravel-hugger-mudgurads are another good bet, if your frameset will not accept, or you want something less permanent, dare I say time-consuming to fit than full-length models. However, there are pre-assembled designs, which are much easier than traditional models to fit. Steve’s been impressed with these Kranx FendR Full Length Mudguards Kranx FendR Full Length Mudguards | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 


According to the chain checker, the KMC chain remains in rude health and the Wedltite Ceramic held on. Scuzzy side plates encouraged a purge, using Green Oil Clean Chain Degreaser Jelly. I’ve since switched to Wedltite TF2 Performance All Weather Lubricant TF2 PERFORMANCE ALL WEATHER LUBRICANT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) since it was handy and, in my experience, stoical for an inexpensive lube. No curing times either.  


Indeed, staying with an icy, snow narrative, some 700c builds may only have clearance 700x40c spikes but sans guards. 


The other thing to be mindful of during these harsher, colder days, is bringing bikes into extremes of temperature e.g., from minus 6 to 23-degree kitchen, or utility room, for example. This will cause moisture to build up, especially within metal framesets, fostering corrosion. Frame Saver and Waxoyl certainly mitigate this, but still.  


A few teaspoons (or indeed a syringe full) of gloopy 10w/40 motor oil sloshing around a metal frame’s inner sanctum will also work as a preserve, albeit less effectively. Carbon fibre is quite a conductive material, so ensure to employ a decent, ideally synthetic grease on metal inserts (bottom bracket shells being prime examples) to prevent galvanic corrosion.   


Ironically enough, conditions have thawed a little since I first put fingers to keyboard-I've kept Ursula shodded with spikes but able to enjoy some fun on the fixed, which I shod with the CST Expedium and Pika tyres, just before temperatures plummetedFormative impressions are favourable, both are relatively perky and engaging, yet very compliant. Given their width, the Pixar’s puncture-repelling belt only covers the centre strip, so time will tell as to their puncture resistance.   


As I’m always saying, reliability is key to enjoying winter.  After seven years, I’ve been reflecting upon the integrity of the Kinesis DC37 Disc Forks. Now, the lifespan of carbon components (although forks in particular) is hotly debated 


Without taking the ultrasound thermal imaging inspection route shown here A Visit To Carbon Fibre Bike Repair | Seven Day Cyclist, it’s difficult to comment upon the fork’s integrity and given the variables of age, mileage and potential cost implications of an accident- lost earnings, dental and other bills, I’ve decided replacement is the best move. Given the DC37 is no longer available and tapered steerers increasingly the norm, options were more limited.  


I needed something with disc mounts and preferably mudguard eyes. Didn’t fancy a carbon steerer, nor did I want to risk buying a direct from-manufacturer auction site special. After some thought and hand-wringing, a cyclocross specialist I used to deal with sprung to mind.  

True enough, they had such a model, so after some further reflection, I decided they were the best choice and will fit to coincide with cable replacement, or similar job, no immediate rush. Tyre size is reckoned a little more restrictive than the DC37 but still good for 40mm, so I should be fine.  


Disc braking, though not the only option, has some definite benefits in winter. I’ve decided I’ll upgrade both Ursula and fixed gear winter trainer’s TRP SPYRE SLC to the TRP HYRD hybrid systems-at the right price (and I’ll be holding on to the fully mechanical callipers). Now, as many will point out, most riders go mechanical, or hydraulic. I’d toyed with the fully hydraulic route and there’s a lot to appreciate.  


Set up correctly, they’re pretty maintenance-free, save for pad changes and a spot of generic cleaning. However, bleeding can be a chore and there’s more cost involved- new lever(s) for starters. Though rare, bust a hydraulic hose in the arse end of nowhere is not good news- replacing a cable, is infinitely easier.  


Detractors will comment that any benefit of a hybrid system is offset by its limitations. The TRP HYRD employs a hydraulic reservoir that still requires periodic bleeding and cleaning and without the outright power advantages that full hydraulics offer. Now, the HYRD system has been around for a good while and I got along very well with it on a test bike, ten years back.  


Most hydraulic systems are open these days, meaning that they draw pads closer to the rotor while the Spyres need to be manually tweaked with a 3mm Allen key. Hardly a hardship but a definite plus during a harsh winter, or cyclocross racing. TRP supposedly employs a Bakelite piston to insulate the hydraulics against braking-generated heat. That coupled with my moderate weight, should rule out fade and similar problems, while (theoretically) extending periods between fluid changes. Hmm, we’ll see...   

Monday, 30 September 2019

Condor Man





No, not the 1981 Disney flop, starring Michael Crawford, although  we do live in very strange times... After a morning's admin and housework, I was suddenly gripped by a flash of inspiration. The sort so bright, it risks a nasty case of arc eye.  

I decided to ditch the Univega's long serving moustache bars in favour of the Soma Condor. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/soma According to my thought processes (I hadn't reached calculations, or anything so rational), the riser sections would provide sufficient height for me to spend the majority of my time on the drops... 

With this in mind, the Soma Condor 2  https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/soma-condor-2-shallow-drop-bars  might've seemed a more obvious choice. However, though I'd run both, briefly on my tubby tourer, to assess Soma's claims (which were realised in the real world) the moustache bars had become something of an institution...I'd also convinced myself they had an edge, when on trailer tugging duties.  

I'd also earmarked the MK1 for a gravel-specific project and the MK2 for my fixed gear winter trainer. Then came the Genetic D-Riser 16   https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-d-riser-bars  and another round of musical handlebars. Besides, the Univega has a predominantly black/dun colour scheme. Contrary chap that I am, I may switch to the Condor 2, later on, should the urge strike. For now, the Condor's black finish clinched it. 

Spare inner and outer cables-check, spare bar tape-check, electrical tape-check. This was also an ideal opportunity to give this Soma Woodie 20 Multi-tool a formative test. Strictly speaking, multi-tools are designed for road/trailside teaks/tuning and repair, not workshop use. However, they are super-convenient, so good ones tend to become go-tos. 

Within half an hour, I'd everything rounded up, bike in the stand and components stripped. I'd removed a shim or two, when switching back to the Univega's OEM triple butted fork, but close scrutiny suggested height and drop depth were textbook. 

I pruned some outer cable housing, fed a new inner wire to the front Genetic CX cantilever  https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-cx-cantilever-brakes and dialled it in a bit. Ample bite to raise the rear wheel, lever grabbed in anger-perfect.  

I was able to recycle this Lizard Skins DSP 2.5mm https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/lizard-skins-dsp which was of sufficient length to provide ample, cushioned coverage. The adhesive backing was conspicuous by its absence, although adhered well, to the bars' shot peened finish. 

Decent quality electrical tape anchored it to the tops.  Having dialled in the rear mech again and pruned its cable, it was time for one last once-over and a 20mile fault finding blast. 
No faults to find-positioning absolutely bang on and as I'd always envisaged back in 1987, when I first clapped eves on a Muddy Fox trailblazer. The Trail Blazer was essentially a drop bar mountain bike with  bar end shifters and 1.75 section tyres.  

Specialized followed suit two years later, with the Rock Combo. These were similarly niche, and had a very short production run.  Feel free to get in touch, if you still own and ride one. I'm not looking to purchase, nor am I someone bitten by "classic" prices and groupsets have come a long way since. However, I loved the concept then, and still do.    

Anyhow, the Univega's positioning now means I default to the drops, affords better protection from the wind (Compared with the otherwise likeable moustache pattern) while retaining good control off road. Tops also provide superior parking space for lights, cameras and similar creature comforts.   

Talking of which, I've also switched saddles, this time to BBB Echelon, which is reputedly a road and trail friendly design, thus meets the criteria handsomely. Also proved the ideal opportunity to remove the seatpost, and treat it to some Park Tool Polylube 1000 Grease, before the darker months set in. 

A home-brewed butyl collar and full length chrome plastic guards/fenders (depending on where you're reading this) certainly help, but its one of those little, preventative measures that saves a lot of time and hassle, later on.