Switches & Ursula's Return

 

I’d returned from the puncture marked ride and decided it was time to give Denise another deep clean, make some gentle tweaks and switch to the fixed gear winter trainer for a little while. This proved an ideal opportunity to put the Green Oil Massive Brush to good use. The added length and softer bristle plot mean it’s effective for all areas of the bike and kind to all surfaces, including paintwork.  I’ve always been fond of the original, standard model but the stiffer bristle plot means it’s better suited to wheels, tyres, bar tape and drivetrain components.    

As for the fixed, well I need to get some serious miles on the WTB Exposure, especially to assess their wet weather prowess and puncture resistance. Getting the balance between ride quality, reliability and durability is a difficult one. A tyre that delivers a spirited, engaging, and compliant ride but without flatting at the first hint of a flint is no mean feat. I’m generally fond of Schwalbe One 365 but have some quiet reservations about the puncture repelling belt, which only covers the centre strip.  

A moot point during a dry summer but wet roads serve as a lubricant. Sure, rolling resistance will drop but the water gives sharps easier passage inside the tyre casing. Anecdotally, others have praised the WTB Exposure’s compliance, speed and puncture resistance, so we’ll see. I’m hoping so. Formative impressions are of a very swift, compliant ride with excellent feedback when cornering on wet roads. A few hundred miles will reveal more. Wetter, characteristically autumnal weather has also presented an opportunity to get miles in with the Madison Flux Waterproof Trail Gloves.  

Flat palms are something of a bum steer. Padding density though uniform, is generous, giving excellent defence against low lever vibration without compromising connection with the bars and controls. Silicone detailing is less extensive than some but effective nonetheless and the detailing on thumb and fore finger make for excellent connectivity between touch screen devices. However, rummaging in pockets and operating trusty compact camera is proving trickier- especially on the fly. Thus far, the waterproof backs are doing their thing with similar aplomb and the extensive terry panel is great for taming runny noses etc.  Here’s my review of the Cycology Life Behind Bars MTB Gloves Cycology Life Behind Bars MTB Gloves | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

As or the Shimano MW7, well I’m equally smitten. I remain a major fan of the MW5 but the MW7’s boa closure ensures a precise, almost custom fit. The sole is palpably stiffer, much closer to the RX7, which is particularly apparent when accelerating hard or keeping a high, smooth cadence, especially on the fixed.  

I’ve decided to raise the fixed’s saddle height by a centimetre or two and, having removed the post’s binder bolt was amused by how well the Weldtite Carbon Gripper held everything inline! Thankfully, it moved with minimal effort. I added some Mint Assembly Grease to the binder bolt while I was at it. 

As for Ursula. Well, Winston and Mario had sorted the repairs, modifications and refinishing. I received a message from Winston asking me to arrange collection before the weekend. Within twenty minutes, I’d organised and paid a courier, passing on the relevant info. Given it was Tuesday, Thursday was the earliest pick up.   

I was keen to get the old girl back, for a wealth of obvious reasons. (a) We’ve been through so much and covered so many miles together (b) I was eager to see the repair, refurb and modernisation in the flesh. (c) I wanted to complete the rebuild before winter. Winston had sent camera shot images of the work at various stages. Useful as progress snapshots and welcome but not an accurate representation of the frame finish etc, especially under tungsten light.   

Emerging from the box, I was relieved to find she’d survived the parcel destroyers unscathed and was the shade of grey I’d hoped for. The first thing I wanted to do was fill her inner sanctum with corrosion inhibitor.  I’d run out of my home brewed “hillbilly Waxoyl” so decided to go for a commercial formula instead.  

J Weigel’s Framesaver is another popular, frame specific staple. One I’ve used to good effect in the past. Ditto Pro Gold Steel Frame Protector. However, on this occasion. I spotted some more generic automotive prep designed for door sections and sills, lending itself nicely to KA and Micra duties, too. It’s essentially a wax type formula, so should go the distance, especially since I’ve applied during a dry and relatively mild period.   

The other option was to drop some 10W40 motor oil inside the seat tube and using GT85, or similar, to chase it around the frame. I’ve left Ursula sat on old newspaper overnight to absorb any residual and will then get busy with the Zefal Skin Armor ZEFAL SKIN ARMOR ROLL | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  to protect against cable rub and related damage before commencing the big build. 

Minus 6 & Winter Mindfulness

 By UK standards, it’s felt bitterly cold for the past few weeks. The Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro and their 240-spike Schwalbe Winter Plus counterparts have been making riding through sheet ice and snowy lanes realistic and relatively pleasant.  

I’d resurrected my Vanguard Belgian style cap and lined these laminated, wind and waterproof gloves with the Specialized liners. Even so, the biting cold had been nibbling at my digits, urging me to maintain a brisk tempo, especially on the return leg.  

It’s thawed since, but despite the conditions, Ursula remained surprisingly clean, thanks in no small part to mudguards (fenders to those of you in the US/Canada). Surprising how much difference they make, so if you’re riding in winter, fit them where possible. My expander wedge solution to Ursula’s front guard mounting required some minor revision.

 

Some play had developed, eradicated by adding two 2mm composite Aheadset spacers, providing the top cap with something to lodge against. One from Ursula’s stem-replaced with a blue anodised aluminium example. The other from my small parts pot.    

Clip-on designs have come a long way too, these Mud Hugger  https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/mud-hugger-gravel-hugger-mudgurads are another good bet, if your frameset will not accept, or you want something less permanent, dare I say time-consuming to fit than full-length models. However, there are pre-assembled designs, which are much easier than traditional models to fit. Steve’s been impressed with these Kranx FendR Full Length Mudguards Kranx FendR Full Length Mudguards | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

According to the chain checker, the KMC chain remains in rude health and the Wedltite Ceramic held on. Scuzzy side plates encouraged a purge, using Green Oil Clean Chain Degreaser Jelly. I’ve since switched to Wedltite TF2 Performance All Weather Lubricant TF2 PERFORMANCE ALL WEATHER LUBRICANT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) since it was handy and, in my experience, stoical for an inexpensive lube. No curing times either.  

Indeed, staying with an icy, snow narrative, some 700c builds may only have clearance 700x40c spikes but sans guards. 

The other thing to be mindful of during these harsher, colder days, is bringing bikes into extremes of temperature e.g., from minus 6 to 23-degree kitchen, or utility room, for example. This will cause moisture to build up, especially within metal framesets, fostering corrosion. Frame Saver and Waxoyl certainly mitigate this, but still.  

A few teaspoons (or indeed a syringe full) of gloopy 10w/40 motor oil sloshing around a metal frame’s inner sanctum will also work as a preserve, albeit less effectively. Carbon fibre is quite a conductive material, so ensure to employ a decent, ideally synthetic grease on metal inserts (bottom bracket shells being prime examples) to prevent galvanic corrosion.   

Ironically enough, conditions have thawed a little since I first put fingers to keyboard-I've kept Ursula shodded with spikes but able to enjoy some fun on the fixed, which I shod with the CST Expedium and Pika tyres, just before temperatures plummeted.  Formative impressions are favourable, both are relatively perky and engaging, yet very compliant. Given their width, the Pixar’s puncture-repelling belt only covers the centre strip, so time will tell as to their puncture resistance.   

As I’m always saying, reliability is key to enjoying winter.  After seven years, I’ve been reflecting upon the integrity of the Kinesis DC37 Disc Forks. Now, the lifespan of carbon components (although forks in particular) is hotly debated.  

Without taking the ultrasound thermal imaging inspection route shown here A Visit To Carbon Fibre Bike Repair | Seven Day Cyclist, it’s difficult to comment upon the fork’s integrity and given the variables of age, mileage and potential cost implications of an accident- lost earnings, dental and other bills, I’ve decided replacement is the best move. Given the DC37 is no longer available and tapered steerers increasingly the norm, options were more limited.  

I needed something with disc mounts and preferably mudguard eyes. Didn’t fancy a carbon steerer, nor did I want to risk buying a direct from-manufacturer auction site special. After some thought and hand-wringing, a cyclocross specialist I used to deal with sprung to mind.  

True enough, they had such a model, so after some further reflection, I decided they were the best choice and will fit to coincide with cable replacement, or similar job, no immediate rush. Tyre size is reckoned a little more restrictive than the DC37 but still good for 40mm, so I should be fine.  

Disc braking, though not the only option, has some definite benefits in winter. I’ve decided I’ll upgrade both Ursula and fixed gear winter trainer’s TRP SPYRE SLC to the TRP HYRD hybrid systems-at the right price (and I’ll be holding on to the fully mechanical callipers). Now, as many will point out, most riders go mechanical, or hydraulic. I’d toyed with the fully hydraulic route and there’s a lot to appreciate.  

Set up correctly, they’re pretty maintenance-free, save for pad changes and a spot of generic cleaning. However, bleeding can be a chore and there’s more cost involved- new lever(s) for starters. Though rare, bust a hydraulic hose in the arse end of nowhere is not good news- replacing a cable, is infinitely easier.  

Detractors will comment that any benefit of a hybrid system is offset by its limitations. The TRP HYRD employs a hydraulic reservoir that still requires periodic bleeding and cleaning and without the outright power advantages that full hydraulics offer. Now, the HYRD system has been around for a good while and I got along very well with it on a test bike, ten years back.  

Most hydraulic systems are open these days, meaning that they draw pads closer to the rotor while the Spyres need to be manually tweaked with a 3mm Allen key. Hardly a hardship but a definite plus during a harsh winter, or cyclocross racing. TRP supposedly employs a Bakelite piston to insulate the hydraulics against braking-generated heat. That coupled with my moderate weight, should rule out fade and similar problems, while (theoretically) extending periods between fluid changes. Hmm, we’ll see...