Showing posts with label frame preserves. Show all posts
Showing posts with label frame preserves. Show all posts

Saturday 24 December 2022

Minus 6 & Winter Mindfulness













 By UK standards, it’s felt bitterly cold for the past few weeks. The Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro and their 240-spike Schwalbe Winter Plus counterparts have been making riding through sheet ice and snowy lanes realistic and relatively pleasant 

I’d resurrected my Vanguard Belgian style cap and lined these laminated, wind and waterproof gloves with the Specialized liners. Even so, the biting cold had been nibbling at my digits, urging me to maintain a brisk tempo, especially on the return leg.  


It’s thawed since, but despite the conditions, Ursula remained surprisingly clean, thanks in no small part to mudguards (fenders to those of you in the US/Canada). Surprising how much difference they make, so if you’re riding in winter, fit them where possible. My expander wedge solution to Ursula’s front guard mounting required some minor revision.

 

Some play had developed, eradicated by adding two 2mm composite Aheadset spacers, providing the top cap with something to lodge against. One from Ursula’s stem-replaced with a blue anodised aluminium example. The other from my small parts pot   


Clip-on designs have come a long way too, these Mud Hugger  https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/mud-hugger-gravel-hugger-mudgurads are another good bet, if your frameset will not accept, or you want something less permanent, dare I say time-consuming to fit than full-length models. However, there are pre-assembled designs, which are much easier than traditional models to fit. Steve’s been impressed with these Kranx FendR Full Length Mudguards Kranx FendR Full Length Mudguards | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 


According to the chain checker, the KMC chain remains in rude health and the Wedltite Ceramic held on. Scuzzy side plates encouraged a purge, using Green Oil Clean Chain Degreaser Jelly. I’ve since switched to Wedltite TF2 Performance All Weather Lubricant TF2 PERFORMANCE ALL WEATHER LUBRICANT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) since it was handy and, in my experience, stoical for an inexpensive lube. No curing times either.  


Indeed, staying with an icy, snow narrative, some 700c builds may only have clearance 700x40c spikes but sans guards. 


The other thing to be mindful of during these harsher, colder days, is bringing bikes into extremes of temperature e.g., from minus 6 to 23-degree kitchen, or utility room, for example. This will cause moisture to build up, especially within metal framesets, fostering corrosion. Frame Saver and Waxoyl certainly mitigate this, but still.  


A few teaspoons (or indeed a syringe full) of gloopy 10w/40 motor oil sloshing around a metal frame’s inner sanctum will also work as a preserve, albeit less effectively. Carbon fibre is quite a conductive material, so ensure to employ a decent, ideally synthetic grease on metal inserts (bottom bracket shells being prime examples) to prevent galvanic corrosion.   


Ironically enough, conditions have thawed a little since I first put fingers to keyboard-I've kept Ursula shodded with spikes but able to enjoy some fun on the fixed, which I shod with the CST Expedium and Pika tyres, just before temperatures plummetedFormative impressions are favourable, both are relatively perky and engaging, yet very compliant. Given their width, the Pixar’s puncture-repelling belt only covers the centre strip, so time will tell as to their puncture resistance.   


As I’m always saying, reliability is key to enjoying winter.  After seven years, I’ve been reflecting upon the integrity of the Kinesis DC37 Disc Forks. Now, the lifespan of carbon components (although forks in particular) is hotly debated 


Without taking the ultrasound thermal imaging inspection route shown here A Visit To Carbon Fibre Bike Repair | Seven Day Cyclist, it’s difficult to comment upon the fork’s integrity and given the variables of age, mileage and potential cost implications of an accident- lost earnings, dental and other bills, I’ve decided replacement is the best move. Given the DC37 is no longer available and tapered steerers increasingly the norm, options were more limited.  


I needed something with disc mounts and preferably mudguard eyes. Didn’t fancy a carbon steerer, nor did I want to risk buying a direct from-manufacturer auction site special. After some thought and hand-wringing, a cyclocross specialist I used to deal with sprung to mind.  

True enough, they had such a model, so after some further reflection, I decided they were the best choice and will fit to coincide with cable replacement, or similar job, no immediate rush. Tyre size is reckoned a little more restrictive than the DC37 but still good for 40mm, so I should be fine.  


Disc braking, though not the only option, has some definite benefits in winter. I’ve decided I’ll upgrade both Ursula and fixed gear winter trainer’s TRP SPYRE SLC to the TRP HYRD hybrid systems-at the right price (and I’ll be holding on to the fully mechanical callipers). Now, as many will point out, most riders go mechanical, or hydraulic. I’d toyed with the fully hydraulic route and there’s a lot to appreciate.  


Set up correctly, they’re pretty maintenance-free, save for pad changes and a spot of generic cleaning. However, bleeding can be a chore and there’s more cost involved- new lever(s) for starters. Though rare, bust a hydraulic hose in the arse end of nowhere is not good news- replacing a cable, is infinitely easier.  


Detractors will comment that any benefit of a hybrid system is offset by its limitations. The TRP HYRD employs a hydraulic reservoir that still requires periodic bleeding and cleaning and without the outright power advantages that full hydraulics offer. Now, the HYRD system has been around for a good while and I got along very well with it on a test bike, ten years back.  


Most hydraulic systems are open these days, meaning that they draw pads closer to the rotor while the Spyres need to be manually tweaked with a 3mm Allen key. Hardly a hardship but a definite plus during a harsh winter, or cyclocross racing. TRP supposedly employs a Bakelite piston to insulate the hydraulics against braking-generated heat. That coupled with my moderate weight, should rule out fade and similar problems, while (theoretically) extending periods between fluid changes. Hmm, we’ll see...   

Monday 8 July 2019

Forks & Functionality




I'm someone who keeps "doing" (as distinct from "to-do") lists. These are organic, and used to structure, and critically analyse how effectively I'm using time, and other resources. "To do lists are full of good intentions, but few results. Some might even describe them as "where good ideas go to die".

That established, instatiing the Univega's original (and recently refurbed) forks were on Saturday's agenda.

Organisation i.e. laying out tools, parts etc are all part of productivity. I'd suspected the long serving Tortec guards' stays were close to pensionable, so retrieved an SKS set, just in case. 
Next came the crown race removal and setting tools, grease, Allen keys, two sets of cable cutters (Premium for cables, cheap n' cheerfuls for cable ties, and similar donkey work).  

Going off piste, I decided to switch to these Genetic CX Cantilevers https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-cx-cantilever-brakes . I'm very fond of the IRD CAFAM 2 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/ird-cafam-2-cantilever-brakes but fancied a change, and besides, the Genetic are much easier to set up. 

I love a really firm, positive action, so set the spring tension to maximum, greased the "new" forks canti posts with Park PPL1 Poly lube and popped them aboard, before turning my attentions to disassembling the Univega's existing front end. Being a daily driver, I was pleasantly surprised by how easily everything released.  

Full length mudguards (fenders) keep a remarkable amount of corrosive filth, from rider and machine, extending servicing times and ultimately, component life. I was pleasantly surprised by how much, effective Muc-Off Bio Grease https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/muc-off-bio-grease-long-term-test was still in evidence. Old "School chair" trials fork out. I gave the Aheadset's bottom race cursory inspection, before delivering a fresh helping, of the jam-ike grease.  

Be rude (and silly) not to.  I replace headsets/ forks maybe once yearly, so find this  wallet friendly Ice Toolz crown race remover perfectly adequate. a few even taps later, I'd extracted the crown race and fitted it to the "new" forks, using my  Cyclo setting tool. 

Scrap "Gas pipe" down tubes make excellent, zero-cost alternatives, although ensure these have been cut cleanly, and accurately...

From this point, everything came back together, sans drama. Wheel reinstated, brakes setup, mudguard hardware greased and snugged tight, it was simply a case of setting bearing tension, trimming cables and naturally, treating the fork to some  Velo 21 Ultimate paintwork protection https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/velo-21 .  

I also took this opportunity to blast some corrosion inhibiting products inside the breathe holes, before hanging the bike up. This encourages it to travel through, and evenly coat the hosts. In a pinch, anything  (petrochemical) oily will do. A teaspoon, or two of 10w/40 motor oil inside a frame, or delivered into the fork blades, via syringe will certainly help. 

I chose to use up an almost exhausted aerosol, of waxy chain lube. Given the temperate weather, it should melt nicely and distribute evenly within their inner sanctum.  Talking of which, Steve's been putting some Boeshield T-9 Bicycle Lube & Protectant through its paces 


Last but not least, for this "sitting"; dynamo cable and computer sensors were tethered, to their respective blades. Weight might be a lesser consideration on a working bike and ultimately, I didn't weigh both forks. However, anecdotally, the  originals are noticeably lighter (gun to my head, probably 300g), which for me, is another bonus.

Knew there was a reason I squirreled them away...
Continuing the working bike theme, co-editor Steve Dyster has been putting Bristol Bicycles Touring Bike through its paces and seems pleasantly surprised by its blend of fun and practicality. 


Elsewhere, I've commenced testing Muc Off Dry Lube, which has a hue and odour, reminiscent of banana ice cream. It also has a recommended curing time of 4 hours, hence one I'd be inclined to re/apply the evening before riding. Once cured, it seems closer to a "diet" wax formula. 

A formative forty mile blast suggests friction's lower than a snake's testicles but I'll reserve any kind of proper judgement, for another 250, or so. Be interesting to see how it compares with the quick curing Zefal Pro Dry https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/zefal-pro-dry-lube,