DIY Mount & Deore

 Large-scale manufacturing is very much a thing of the past here in the UK. There is a sense in which the nation still yearns for this, possibly as an antidote to a palpable sense of managed decline.  

There also seems a romanticised idea of the post-war period, and a yearning for its return. Hmm...petrol rationing, communal outdoor toilets, no, or extremely limited access to contraception, abortion and widespread austerity...Be careful what you wish for... One of those things I often reflect on, through the dark lanes in the wee small hours. 

I’ve always been very drawn to highly skilled people-their intelligence, humility and eagerness to learn is very infectious. Now, the relevance of this backstory? Finding a suitable mount allowing the TRP HYRD to fit a fork’s IS mount. John Moss and I were discussing our respective projects- he's been upping the gearing range on his beloved Mango.  

He seemed confident and moreover, offered to make a mount from stainless steel. I had an appointment in the midlands that week, so popped the TRP HYRD calliper, red mount, and severed Kinesis fork (as templates) into a box and 18-year-old but much-loved Specialized messenger bag. 

Upon my arrival, he ushered me and my stash to the garage and then, to the workshop. I had my trusty compact camera in pocket, so took various shots in alternate positions for John to refer to. Nonetheless, John remained convinced he could machine something bespoke, from stainless steel. 

 

He’d trace around the red mount and possibly mill some slots for a precision fit.  Now, this wasn’t urgent- the TRP SPYRE SLC were in good health and highly functional and I didn’t want John feeling under pressure or distracted from his own projects. However, I don’t like things that aren’t ready to go, as and when I want/need them.  

Life and sometimes ideas can be cyclical. Six years since I went the 1x9 route with Ursula After The Gritters Went Home | Seven Day Cyclist and two since I switched to a Hollow Tech II crankset, I found myself contemplating a double. Serendipity had someone waving a new 36/26 175mm crankset and braze-on derailleur under my nose for a ridiculously keen price. Decision made... 

I’d a new left hand Microshift bar con, inner and outer cables, chain(s) and indeed, an STX front mech. However, this was from the original build, and I didn’t want to get side-lined by something that wasn’t going to plug and play. Make no mistake, a lot of components will adjust nicely...  

Being a 7 speed MTB mech, the pull wouldn’t be an issue, and the travel easily restricted but I thought it best to get a compatible contemporary model and keep the STX on the subs bench. 

I also had a Microshift and Sun Race front mechs (double), but these were braze- on, requiring a suitable aftermarket clamp and, being road models, were bottom pull, thus requiring an adaptor. I’d be into £30 on those alone.  

Now, I could always whip the 28.6mm STX band on clamp over to the Deore but I didn’t want to start cannibalizing stuff. I was tempted by a BBB Shift fix, but these weren’t available in 28.6.

Thankfully, M Part does. M part is Madison Cycles' in-house range and, in my experience, nicely executed. It may also mean removing the serrated section of the rear mudguard (its deliberately engineered for this purpose). I’d run bar con shifters on Ursula’s original build (Deore XT) so knew the left-hand Microshift would be fully compatible.

  

I also took that opportunity to prune an outer housing to length, making the switch cum upgrade that bit quicker. I put some helicopter tape around the seat tube, where the front mech mount would sit against the paintwork. A bit OTT perhaps but rules out marking paint, when adjusting the mech’s height/positioning.       

 

As a side note, I’ve always liked Deore and STX/RC groups. Good performance-to-price ratios. Finish is generally decent, too. Smart enough for pretty builds but rugged-great for daily drivers and working bikes. What’s the best bike? Is a question so commonly put to shop staff. The best bike is that or those that meet your riding needs. The same applies to components- horses for courses, essentially.  

Good planning and preparation are key-I've even found these KMC magic link pliers, which I’d had for a decade, or so but believed lost during the last move. I’d secreted them inside a Lezyne pannier of similar heritage. Even with the stock 11-25 cassette, I’d have a range between 26.8 and 84.3 inches. With an 11-28, I’d be looking at a bottom gear of 23.9. However, I have a quiet (possibly unfounded) concern this would put the Tiagra mech under potential strain.  

Might be a red herring but I didn’t want it imploding like the Sun Race and Micro shift did-at the least convenient moments. Not that there’s a fun time for a component’s expiry. In terms of chain length, some sites suggest I will have no issues with chains of 100 links, but this seems a little short to me. I’ll go with the existing 110 and place a little less stress on the system.  

I’ve decided to wait until the unseasonably wintry March and potentially awkward start to April pass- no sense giving the new components unnecessary exposure to the elements. It also means I could switch to the fixed gear winter trainer, should I need to “pause” with Ursula’s upgrade. That said; I’ve switched the spikes in favour of the Maxxis Maxxis Overdrive Excel Tyre | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and reached my CST Xpedium CST Xpedium Tyres | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) conclusions.   

Why not a triple? Well, simply put, this would be excessive/unnecessary and a chore to keep harmonious year-round. A 26-inch (or 23.9) gear is more than sufficient torque for most gradients and contexts the old girl and I are likely to meet. 84 inches is tall enough for bombing without blowing knees, or spinning myself into another dimension-although some might suggest that might be desirable, given the UK’s present trajectory.   

 

I’m holding on to the single ring deore but I’ve decided it’s time to move the 170mm, Shimano Zee, since it’s a downhill crank and surplus to my requirements. Right, time for a change of lube... 

Minus 6 & Winter Mindfulness

 By UK standards, it’s felt bitterly cold for the past few weeks. The Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro and their 240-spike Schwalbe Winter Plus counterparts have been making riding through sheet ice and snowy lanes realistic and relatively pleasant.  

I’d resurrected my Vanguard Belgian style cap and lined these laminated, wind and waterproof gloves with the Specialized liners. Even so, the biting cold had been nibbling at my digits, urging me to maintain a brisk tempo, especially on the return leg.  

It’s thawed since, but despite the conditions, Ursula remained surprisingly clean, thanks in no small part to mudguards (fenders to those of you in the US/Canada). Surprising how much difference they make, so if you’re riding in winter, fit them where possible. My expander wedge solution to Ursula’s front guard mounting required some minor revision.

 

Some play had developed, eradicated by adding two 2mm composite Aheadset spacers, providing the top cap with something to lodge against. One from Ursula’s stem-replaced with a blue anodised aluminium example. The other from my small parts pot.    

Clip-on designs have come a long way too, these Mud Hugger  https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/mud-hugger-gravel-hugger-mudgurads are another good bet, if your frameset will not accept, or you want something less permanent, dare I say time-consuming to fit than full-length models. However, there are pre-assembled designs, which are much easier than traditional models to fit. Steve’s been impressed with these Kranx FendR Full Length Mudguards Kranx FendR Full Length Mudguards | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

According to the chain checker, the KMC chain remains in rude health and the Wedltite Ceramic held on. Scuzzy side plates encouraged a purge, using Green Oil Clean Chain Degreaser Jelly. I’ve since switched to Wedltite TF2 Performance All Weather Lubricant TF2 PERFORMANCE ALL WEATHER LUBRICANT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) since it was handy and, in my experience, stoical for an inexpensive lube. No curing times either.  

Indeed, staying with an icy, snow narrative, some 700c builds may only have clearance 700x40c spikes but sans guards. 

The other thing to be mindful of during these harsher, colder days, is bringing bikes into extremes of temperature e.g., from minus 6 to 23-degree kitchen, or utility room, for example. This will cause moisture to build up, especially within metal framesets, fostering corrosion. Frame Saver and Waxoyl certainly mitigate this, but still.  

A few teaspoons (or indeed a syringe full) of gloopy 10w/40 motor oil sloshing around a metal frame’s inner sanctum will also work as a preserve, albeit less effectively. Carbon fibre is quite a conductive material, so ensure to employ a decent, ideally synthetic grease on metal inserts (bottom bracket shells being prime examples) to prevent galvanic corrosion.   

Ironically enough, conditions have thawed a little since I first put fingers to keyboard-I've kept Ursula shodded with spikes but able to enjoy some fun on the fixed, which I shod with the CST Expedium and Pika tyres, just before temperatures plummeted.  Formative impressions are favourable, both are relatively perky and engaging, yet very compliant. Given their width, the Pixar’s puncture-repelling belt only covers the centre strip, so time will tell as to their puncture resistance.   

As I’m always saying, reliability is key to enjoying winter.  After seven years, I’ve been reflecting upon the integrity of the Kinesis DC37 Disc Forks. Now, the lifespan of carbon components (although forks in particular) is hotly debated.  

Without taking the ultrasound thermal imaging inspection route shown here A Visit To Carbon Fibre Bike Repair | Seven Day Cyclist, it’s difficult to comment upon the fork’s integrity and given the variables of age, mileage and potential cost implications of an accident- lost earnings, dental and other bills, I’ve decided replacement is the best move. Given the DC37 is no longer available and tapered steerers increasingly the norm, options were more limited.  

I needed something with disc mounts and preferably mudguard eyes. Didn’t fancy a carbon steerer, nor did I want to risk buying a direct from-manufacturer auction site special. After some thought and hand-wringing, a cyclocross specialist I used to deal with sprung to mind.  

True enough, they had such a model, so after some further reflection, I decided they were the best choice and will fit to coincide with cable replacement, or similar job, no immediate rush. Tyre size is reckoned a little more restrictive than the DC37 but still good for 40mm, so I should be fine.  

Disc braking, though not the only option, has some definite benefits in winter. I’ve decided I’ll upgrade both Ursula and fixed gear winter trainer’s TRP SPYRE SLC to the TRP HYRD hybrid systems-at the right price (and I’ll be holding on to the fully mechanical callipers). Now, as many will point out, most riders go mechanical, or hydraulic. I’d toyed with the fully hydraulic route and there’s a lot to appreciate.  

Set up correctly, they’re pretty maintenance-free, save for pad changes and a spot of generic cleaning. However, bleeding can be a chore and there’s more cost involved- new lever(s) for starters. Though rare, bust a hydraulic hose in the arse end of nowhere is not good news- replacing a cable, is infinitely easier.  

Detractors will comment that any benefit of a hybrid system is offset by its limitations. The TRP HYRD employs a hydraulic reservoir that still requires periodic bleeding and cleaning and without the outright power advantages that full hydraulics offer. Now, the HYRD system has been around for a good while and I got along very well with it on a test bike, ten years back.  

Most hydraulic systems are open these days, meaning that they draw pads closer to the rotor while the Spyres need to be manually tweaked with a 3mm Allen key. Hardly a hardship but a definite plus during a harsh winter, or cyclocross racing. TRP supposedly employs a Bakelite piston to insulate the hydraulics against braking-generated heat. That coupled with my moderate weight, should rule out fade and similar problems, while (theoretically) extending periods between fluid changes. Hmm, we’ll see...