DIY Mount & Deore

 Large-scale manufacturing is very much a thing of the past here in the UK. There is a sense in which the nation still yearns for this, possibly as an antidote to a palpable sense of managed decline.  

There also seems a romanticised idea of the post-war period, and a yearning for its return. Hmm...petrol rationing, communal outdoor toilets, no, or extremely limited access to contraception, abortion and widespread austerity...Be careful what you wish for... One of those things I often reflect on, through the dark lanes in the wee small hours. 

I’ve always been very drawn to highly skilled people-their intelligence, humility and eagerness to learn is very infectious. Now, the relevance of this backstory? Finding a suitable mount allowing the TRP HYRD to fit a fork’s IS mount. John Moss and I were discussing our respective projects- he's been upping the gearing range on his beloved Mango.  

He seemed confident and moreover, offered to make a mount from stainless steel. I had an appointment in the midlands that week, so popped the TRP HYRD calliper, red mount, and severed Kinesis fork (as templates) into a box and 18-year-old but much-loved Specialized messenger bag. 

Upon my arrival, he ushered me and my stash to the garage and then, to the workshop. I had my trusty compact camera in pocket, so took various shots in alternate positions for John to refer to. Nonetheless, John remained convinced he could machine something bespoke, from stainless steel. 

 

He’d trace around the red mount and possibly mill some slots for a precision fit.  Now, this wasn’t urgent- the TRP SPYRE SLC were in good health and highly functional and I didn’t want John feeling under pressure or distracted from his own projects. However, I don’t like things that aren’t ready to go, as and when I want/need them.  

Life and sometimes ideas can be cyclical. Six years since I went the 1x9 route with Ursula After The Gritters Went Home | Seven Day Cyclist and two since I switched to a Hollow Tech II crankset, I found myself contemplating a double. Serendipity had someone waving a new 36/26 175mm crankset and braze-on derailleur under my nose for a ridiculously keen price. Decision made... 

I’d a new left hand Microshift bar con, inner and outer cables, chain(s) and indeed, an STX front mech. However, this was from the original build, and I didn’t want to get side-lined by something that wasn’t going to plug and play. Make no mistake, a lot of components will adjust nicely...  

Being a 7 speed MTB mech, the pull wouldn’t be an issue, and the travel easily restricted but I thought it best to get a compatible contemporary model and keep the STX on the subs bench. 

I also had a Microshift and Sun Race front mechs (double), but these were braze- on, requiring a suitable aftermarket clamp and, being road models, were bottom pull, thus requiring an adaptor. I’d be into £30 on those alone.  

Now, I could always whip the 28.6mm STX band on clamp over to the Deore but I didn’t want to start cannibalizing stuff. I was tempted by a BBB Shift fix, but these weren’t available in 28.6.

Thankfully, M Part does. M part is Madison Cycles' in-house range and, in my experience, nicely executed. It may also mean removing the serrated section of the rear mudguard (its deliberately engineered for this purpose). I’d run bar con shifters on Ursula’s original build (Deore XT) so knew the left-hand Microshift would be fully compatible.

  

I also took that opportunity to prune an outer housing to length, making the switch cum upgrade that bit quicker. I put some helicopter tape around the seat tube, where the front mech mount would sit against the paintwork. A bit OTT perhaps but rules out marking paint, when adjusting the mech’s height/positioning.       

 

As a side note, I’ve always liked Deore and STX/RC groups. Good performance-to-price ratios. Finish is generally decent, too. Smart enough for pretty builds but rugged-great for daily drivers and working bikes. What’s the best bike? Is a question so commonly put to shop staff. The best bike is that or those that meet your riding needs. The same applies to components- horses for courses, essentially.  

Good planning and preparation are key-I've even found these KMC magic link pliers, which I’d had for a decade, or so but believed lost during the last move. I’d secreted them inside a Lezyne pannier of similar heritage. Even with the stock 11-25 cassette, I’d have a range between 26.8 and 84.3 inches. With an 11-28, I’d be looking at a bottom gear of 23.9. However, I have a quiet (possibly unfounded) concern this would put the Tiagra mech under potential strain.  

Might be a red herring but I didn’t want it imploding like the Sun Race and Micro shift did-at the least convenient moments. Not that there’s a fun time for a component’s expiry. In terms of chain length, some sites suggest I will have no issues with chains of 100 links, but this seems a little short to me. I’ll go with the existing 110 and place a little less stress on the system.  

I’ve decided to wait until the unseasonably wintry March and potentially awkward start to April pass- no sense giving the new components unnecessary exposure to the elements. It also means I could switch to the fixed gear winter trainer, should I need to “pause” with Ursula’s upgrade. That said; I’ve switched the spikes in favour of the Maxxis Maxxis Overdrive Excel Tyre | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and reached my CST Xpedium CST Xpedium Tyres | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) conclusions.   

Why not a triple? Well, simply put, this would be excessive/unnecessary and a chore to keep harmonious year-round. A 26-inch (or 23.9) gear is more than sufficient torque for most gradients and contexts the old girl and I are likely to meet. 84 inches is tall enough for bombing without blowing knees, or spinning myself into another dimension-although some might suggest that might be desirable, given the UK’s present trajectory.   

 

I’m holding on to the single ring deore but I’ve decided it’s time to move the 170mm, Shimano Zee, since it’s a downhill crank and surplus to my requirements. Right, time for a change of lube... 

Changing Rubber, Switching Routes

 

My recent reversion to the dependable and moreover, likeable 700x38 Vittoria Adventure Tech and 700x32 Kenda Kwick Journey KS plus KENDA KWICK JOURNEY TYRES | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  has proved a wise move, on the reliability front without sacrificing smiles.  Then along came some CST Pika Gravel and Xpedium Tyres. Ours is the skinny, old school cyclo cross 700x32c but there’s a 42mm (about 1.65 in) for bigger, gravel and adventure bike typical clearances.  

They’re a 60tpi dual compound with EPS (Extra Puncture Protection) puncture repelling belt, sturdy looking sidewalls and run between (35 and 75psi). At £31, they fall into the budget boat, so it’ll be interesting to see how they perform. Bickers LTD www.bickersltd.co.uk , the UK importer also sent me CST Xpedium. A 700x35c commuter biased tyre with a tread pattern superficially like Ursula’s Schwalbe Land Cruiser (no sign of the snow threatened by tabloid press outlets, yet.)  

The Xpedium feature a very comprehensive Aramid belt, which follow a narrative closer to some commuter/touring favourites from Schwalbe and indeed Vee Tire Co Zilent TESTED: VEE TIRE CO ZILENT MARK 2 TYRES (sevendaycyclist.com) although at 715g a bit lighter than both. This season, roads and lanes are paved in dung and similar gooey stuff, add hedge clippings to the mix and yes, the odds of flatting increase quite considerably.  

Blow-outs are relatively rare, although I’ve had a few over the years. Arguably the most hilarious was while riding my hack mtb (based around a Raleigh Maverick frameset and whatever I had, back in 1990/91).  

Hammering through a winding section of singletrack, something pierced the rear tyre’s sidewall and 50psi roared out, inducing a rear wheel slide and a mange et trois...Such weas the force, I was swept into a hedge where a couple were in a passionate tryst. Not sure who was more surprised to see who.  

Replaced that tyre with a 1.75 CST funnily enough- had a beefy 2.1-inch Hutchinson up front. MKS sealed bearing pedals, Zefal clips n’ straps, Weinmann cantilevers, Le Chi levers, thumb-shifters, Exage bio-pace crankset, SR seat post, Turbo homage saddle, 6spd block...A summer distraction while I awaited my GCSE exam results and sold on a year later to fund “The Teenage Dream”, my 531 Competition tubed road frameset.

I digress... A new set of brushes arrived for review, so I wasted no time in getting my filthy fixed lathered up and spruced. Looking in the cleaning bucket, I noted I had a few bottles of cleaner that were basically empty but had enough concentrated surfactant to do one last deep clean. Now, generic car wash n’ wax formulas are a default for me, (when I’m not putting products through their paces).  

 

These cut through the grime and when rinsed, leave a thin protective wax barrier behind. However, after five years regular use, the dregs of Crankalicious Mud Honey Foaming Bucket Wash TESTED: CRANKALICIOUS MUD HONEY FOAMING BUCKET WASH (sevendaycyclist.com) deserved a send-off. The rich later made short work of a week’s slimy spatter and caked on gunge (including some stubborn chain lube).  

The other reason I didn’t reach for wax was that I wanted to lay some helicopter tape atop the fixed’s top and head tube, where the Oxford Evo Top Tube bag was resting. This would prevent any potential swirling, or similar, should the bag move around, or wet gritty stuff get swept between bag and paintwork.  

I also decided the fixed’s KMC Z1 chain was too long, so pruned that by a few links (Claiming a multi tool’s chain function into the bargain. Luckily, I had this Topeak All Speeds Chain Tool TOPEAK ALL SPEEDS CHAIN TOOL | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) so, crisis averted).  

As a side note, I’m fond of multi-tools and especially those with a chain breaker. However, these tend to be weak spots. Even my Gerber Cool Tool’s pin has failed. Final job was a pedal switch.  

Again, I’m attached to the Shimano PD ED 500 Shimano PD ED 500 Pedals | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and though not desperate to save 160g from the build, I was keen to see if the PD M-540 would have any bearing upon my experience with the Shimano RX6 shoes.

I also noted the Sigma Infinity Rear LED Light SIGMA INFINITY REAR LED LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) had mysteriously powered down. So frugal, it gets forgotten, not a fault, or victim of water ingress. Since I’m talking rear lights, here’s my review of the Infini Metis Infini Metis 1-465R Rear Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

Fixed beautified, I decided it was time to hop back aboard Ursula and to judge whether another pair of long-serving bib tights had become bin fodder, courtesy of a knackered insert. Chafing around my inner buttock was the clue and confirmed during the next ride. This also coincided with an early morning road closure.  

Inconvenient, especially on a Monday morning, when I needed to be home by c. 545. That said; I followed the diversion, upped my tempo and was seemingly guided by some benevolent force along the even darker, narrower lanes. Having pulled up outside my house, with time to spare I considered it a blessing in disguise and looked forward to indulging in its charms, while works continued.