Filth Fighters & Other F Words

 

 

Cleaning and maintaining bikes is an integral part of riding. Some folks see it as a chore, but doing so greatly reduces the likelihood of problems developing mid-ride, possibly miles from home. It’s also the time to check things like chain and brake pad wear, tyres for shards of glass, cuts etc.

Did I mention cables, housings, loose mounting bolts, sloppy bearings…Winter aside (where I will typically rinse bikes with fresh cold water to dismiss road salt, grit and similarly corrosive, or abrasive nasties, I default to a good quality car wash n’ wax formula, since this will clean surfaces and leave a waxy, protective layer behind.

During the warmer months, there are waterless bike shampoos and washes that will remove light to moderate grime. Some, including this Moto Verde Waterless Wax Motoverde Waterless Wash & Wax | cycling-not-racing will leave a high quality wax barrier behind. However, while they’re suitable for gloss surfaces-including plated, polished, carbon and anodising, you’ll need to look elsewhere for matts.  

There’s still a place for bike washes, although, outside of a testing context, I err toward the concentrates since these can serve as degreasers when purging dirty drivetrains and diluted “to taste” depending on whether I want something faster acting on really heavily soiled gravel, cross, or mountain bikes. People seem to like visually foamy formulas, seemingly of the belief they are doing more, whereas those that cling to the surfaces are actually breaking down the grime.

Against this backdrop, I’ve received this Stans Bio Based Bike wash 1litre. It’s a stock blend and like many others, makes a point of saying its biodegradable.

Biodegradable is one of those terms that’s a little vague and can just mean “it will eventually break down”. By the same token, it’s also worth saying that because something is made from natural ingredients, doesn’t mean to say its necessarily kind to user and finishes alike. Citrus is very acidic and while an incredibly effective lube stripper, requires careful deployment.   

The Stans contains Lauryl Glucoside Citrate, an alcohol derived from coconut, or palm. It’s a surfactant, meaning it allows water to mix with oil and grime, breaking the latter down and ultimately, making the surface easier to clean. On the plus side, it’s very gentle on skin (hence its use in baby shampoos, body washes), breaks down very quickly in water and produces a very rich, stable foam that clings convincingly to the host surface, thus gobbling the grime more effectively. 

However, these can also have a high PH level, some people with particularly sensitive skins can develop contact dermatitis. Like most products, avoid getting any in your eyes. If you do, rinse your eyes in clean water for a while and seek medical attention.  In common with hair shampoos and indeed, some other bike washes, its designed to be delivered over a wet bike, worked into a lather and rinsed with fresh water.

I remain impressed by the NZero Bike Degreaser NZero Bike Degreaser | cycling-not-racing  . It’s not the fastest acting, or the most visually exciting, but very effective and so long as you’re not too gung-ho a little goes surprisingly far. It can be diluted and used as a bike wash, or even used neat on heavily soiled bikes-just have buckets, brushes, sponges and similar cleaning implements handy and don’t leave longer than 60 seconds before doing the scrubbing and rinsing thing. There are other homely remedies for stripping drivetrains, from the highly flammable and therefore potentially dangerous, to the passable in a pinch.

Some folks advocate dishwashers but that to me has little benefit aside from damaging seals and other precious components. I would generally avoid washing up liquids (dish detergents) since these contain salts, which are corrosive and can dull lacquers and other finishes. That said, it’s also very effective at stripping lubes and grime from cassettes, chains and indeed, rings.  

Talking of which, in my excitement at finding a bargain, I discovered I’d bought a boost version of the Deore crankset, designed for a 73mm bottom bracket shell, whereas Denise is a 68mm. This wasn’t obvious, in the way it was with Ursula and the Zee but crept in over time, when I noted some exposed axle on the non-drive side, two hundred mixed terrain miles hence. Sorted now but note to self… All that glitters is not necessarily the correct length.  I’ll leave it here with my review of the Park TW5 2.0 Ratcheting Click Type Torque wrench Park Tool TW5 2.0 Torque Wrench | cycling-not-racing

 

 

Double Pleasure

 

No, not that sort-I’m referring to a 36/26 Deore Crankset complete with front mech and cables for less than the cost of a couple of rings. Be rude not to, since I was bound to wear Denise’s existing Deore 1x at some point in the not-too-distant future- it was the original ring and had served on Ursula before that.

Denise’s existing KMC chain was registering .5 on the chain checker. Late middle age in chain terms, so another thing I would need to be switching at some point.

While there was still some life in the existing KMC, I decided to mount the crankset, before going for a front mech and (bar con) shifter route. This was to check whether the existing 106 links was sufficient, or whether I might need 108. I’d some pre-cut (106 link) chains in stock, so would be nice if that was so.

In terms of front mech, given the frameset’s age, I reasoned, like Ursula, the seat tube was 28.6 and had originally looked for another STX. However, front mechs are fairly crude beasts, so I wasn’t going to pay over the odds. This top pull SR Suntour triple was along similar lines and seemed a good bet, especially teamed with a Microshift bar end shifter, which offered plenty of scope for adjustment and fine-tuning.

Before the crankset and front mech arrived, I’d gone on a quick “Easter Egg” hunt for shifter, cables, pre-cut chain and set them aside. The following morning, having returned from a ride, I decided to measure up (guestimate) for the front mech’s positioning, removing the seat tube bottle cage and applying some helicopter tape where the mech’s band on clamp would most likely rest.

Next, I noticed some mysteriously chipped paint on the seat stay carrier boss. Out with the fastener and a quick lick of high-build primer followed-another little job off the list. Since I also needed to reposition the Exposure Revo dynamo lamp, so decided to install the Microshift bar end shifter, one that had commanded Ursula’s STX front mech, prior to the frame’s repair, modernisation and makeover.

I didn’t want to get to the point of no return, rather where I could progress but without being committed, able to break and reflect as required. Just as well, since the gear cable housing I’d ordered hadn’t materialised. I’m sure I had some but ordered more. I wanted to check 106 links was of the correct length and, given the existing was 106 and still had sufficient life, I bolted the 2X Deore crankset in situ and set everything up to ride.

 Afterall, if the Crane Cousins could journey to the centre of the earth sans front mech, I could for a week, or two.  While we all like stuff that comes together first time and with minimal faff, there’s something very satisfying about fine tuning.  At this point, I was suddenly struck, dare I say attacked by a horrific thought- that the mech wouldn’t reach the rings. Offering the mech up quashed this anxiety and also confirmed its ideal mounting point-phew! 

On the stand, everything seemed to behave and the rear mech didn’t look unduly strained and was replicated in subsequent rides, so when some Shimano gear cables arrived, I removed the chain, offered the SR Suntour mech up and, it fouled the rear tyre…Confidence drained from me like a straining tea bag. Two options…Buy a new mech, an STX or Deore LX from this period. Or…Switch Ursula’s STX for the SR Suntour. I did both.

Found a Deore LX for less than £10 and was relieved to discover ample room between Ursula’s rear tyre, even with a 2.3. Given I wasn’t going the triple route, I was confident the SR Suntour would play nicely, and it did. A fresh inner wire, some adjustment of the H/L screws, and the cage scooped the chain back and forth dutifully. Cable pruned and glued, I turned my attention to Denise. Existing KMC chain split, I mounted the STX, fitted a fresh KMC and wired everything up. To my relief, save for some tweaking of the limit screws, the cage swept the chain between rings.

Some would argue mullet drivetrains are a better bet and on some technical grounds, I’d agree, but the 36/26 11-25 setup gives me a good, knee-friendly spread between 28.4 and 89 inches. I’d also been toying with replacing the Suntour XC SE cantilever. These are a rear-specific design from the late 1980s and still offer decent performance. However, adjustment is a little more involved compared with a traditional cantilever. I was also seeking something period-sensitive but without paying period prices

Tektro CR720 were an obvious default-sensibly priced and certainly up to the job…Then someone waved these NOS (New Old Stock) Kore under my nose for less than £10. A third of the Tektro’s rrp, so no debate there. Again, I needed to replace the inner wire, and wanted to inspect and most likely, re-grease the bosses, so then was the time.

By contrast, the Kore were very easy to set up- I just added some sped grease to the bosses, slotted everything in situ, and adjusted with a 5mm Allen key and 10mm ring spanner. The left balance screw needed a quick turn-using a 3mm Allen key common to all modern multi-tools. Talking of which, I'm off to fine-tune the rear mech.

 

Gravel a Gimmick? I beg to differ

 Some commentators suggest that Gravel is a gimmick. Sure, I don’t subscribe to all its nuances, but lightweight drop bar builds with the ability to traverse unmade roads have been cemented in my psyche, since 1986. I suddenly found myself contemplating another bar switch, this time to some On-One Midge. A flared design that I was initially sceptical about but stealthily grew on me, back in 2005 However, I quickly recalled that these Soma Fabrications Condor 2 SOMA CONDOR 2 SHALLOW DROP BARS | (sevendaycyclist.com) shape was great for the fixed and optimal for Ursula. 

Gravel clothing also lends itself very nicely to other genres- touring and indeed everyday riding thanks to its rugged materials. I’ve switched from my defaults, the Shimano RX600 Shimano SH RX600 Gravel Cycling Shoes | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) back to their more compliant, less racy MT701 GTX Shimano MT701 GTX SPD Shoes | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)

Primarily since I’ve stubbed my toe and the GTX are a little roomier at the toe box. Soles are more compliant, so lack the RX600’s razor-sharp power transfer but still offer excellent support and are a little more comfortable sans bike.  

A good bet for touring, commuting and general riding. If you’re on a relatively tight budget, FLR Rexton Touring/Trail shoe FLR REXSTON ACTIVE TOURING/TRAIL SHOE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) are another rugged, versatile choice. Laces and Velcro lack the refinement and convenience of the boa systems and the emphasis is more on the lighter side of trail/gravel duties. However, they’ve stood up to wintry roads and other, not-so-balmy weather very well.     

Arguably, Polaris Bikewear’s discontinued Challenge range stole a march on this mixed terrain clothing narrative. POLARIS CHALLENGE NEXUS SHORTS TEST AND REVIEW (sevendaycyclist.com)  POLARIS TRAVERSE MEN'S JERSEY REVIEW (sevendaycyclist.com) not forgetting the Pioneer jacket, POLARIS CHALLENGE PIONEER WINDPROOF JACKET REVIEW (sevendaycyclist.com) I still wear these during spring and summer months.  

Pearson Cycles Adventure range and specifically, their red adventure long sleeve Cycling Jacket is my new favourite. It’s a bridge garment, in the jersey cum jacket vein. Reckoned to withstand a fast-paced encounter with a Hawthorne hedge, there’s a great blend of retro and modern.  

The main fabric is 65% recycled polyester, 25% recycled Coolmax and 10% Lycra.  The chest panel is overlain with Millerain. There are two deep breast pockets and a further two at the rear. One big poacher type for generic capture-all, the other for a mini pump. 

Gravel helmets also bridge the gap between genres very nicely. Bell Muni Urban Sport Helmet was another, now-dropped design ahead of the trend. Peak, 21 vents and LED lights at the rear ensured it performed well on and off road, touring and commuting. It also blended nicely with road and mtb threads and didn’t look out of place on a road-biased touring lorry, either.  

Looking at the current catalogue, the Bell Trace LED helmet looks the closest comparator. Madison Cycles Madison.co.uk – The UK’s largest cycle parts & accessories distributor sent me this Lazer Chameleon, which is another design intended to cross between gravel, touring, commuting and light trail duties.  Ours is the medium, which tips the scales at a respectable 283g and is the “lowlier” non-MIPS version (£20 cheaper).  

It features a crash replacement program, meaning a replacement can be bought at a discount, which hopefully you’ll never need. The Advanced Rollsys adjustment system is designed for a precise fit- crucial if a helmet is to do its job effectively. Rather than the big thumbwheel, there’s a smaller, splined dial at the top, and the cradle system avoids pressure points, while ensuring a clear, unhindered exit for ponytails.  

A peak, 13 large vents continue the versatile narrative. Ours is the two-tone matt blue, but there are other matt colours- black, white and red. Matt colours require a little more care and dedicated “polishes” but nothing outlandish, in my experience. Finish and specification are pretty much what I’ve come to expect from this end of the market.  

The polycarbonate shell doesn’t extend around the rim, leaving it slightly more vulnerable to the usual everyday carelessness but no more so than similar designs. In common with the Bell models, it is designed to accept a dedicated (aftermarket) light, but I’ve also found several others, including the Magicshine Seemee (100, 180 and 200-lumen models) a perfectly good fit, ditto the slightly heavier and now discontinued Xeccon Mars 60 TESTED: XECCON MARS 60 COB REAR LIGHT (sevendaycyclist.com)   

Thirteen vents might not sound particularly airy but thus far, they’ve been gulping in a decent and continuous flow of cooling air, without the painful “ice cream” headaches that can strike on long, fast, chill descents. Wind noise is also reassuringly absent and I’m forming a fondness for it-as if you couldn’t tell.  Same goes for Ursula’s new 2x10 Deore setup... Ending on a related note, here's my review of the Feedback Sports Cassette PliersFeeback Sports Cassette Pliers | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com).