No, not that sort-I’m referring
to a 36/26 Deore Crankset complete with front mech and cables for less than the
cost of a couple of rings. Be rude not to, since I was bound to wear Denise’s existing
Deore 1x at some point in the not-too-distant future- it was the original ring and
had served on Ursula before that.
Denise’s existing KMC chain was
registering .5 on the chain checker. Late middle age in chain terms, so another
thing I would need to be switching at some point.
While there was still some life in
the existing KMC, I decided to mount the crankset, before going for a front
mech and (bar con) shifter route. This was to check whether the existing 106
links was sufficient, or whether I might need 108. I’d some pre-cut (106 link)
chains in stock, so would be nice if that was so.
In terms of front mech, given the
frameset’s age, I reasoned, like Ursula, the seat tube was 28.6 and had
originally looked for another STX. However, front mechs are fairly crude
beasts, so I wasn’t going to pay over the odds. This top pull SR Suntour triple
was along similar lines and seemed a good bet, especially teamed with a Microshift
bar end shifter, which offered plenty of scope for adjustment and fine-tuning.
Before the crankset and front
mech arrived, I’d gone on a quick “Easter Egg” hunt for shifter, cables,
pre-cut chain and set them aside. The following morning, having returned from a
ride, I decided to measure up (guestimate) for the front mech’s positioning,
removing the seat tube bottle cage and applying some helicopter tape where the
mech’s band on clamp would most likely rest.
Next, I noticed some mysteriously
chipped paint on the seat stay carrier boss. Out with the fastener and a quick
lick of high-build primer followed-another little job off the list. Since I
also needed to reposition the Exposure Revo dynamo lamp, so decided to install
the Microshift bar end shifter, one that had commanded Ursula’s STX front mech,
prior to the frame’s repair, modernisation and makeover.
I didn’t want to get to the point
of no return, rather where I could progress but without being committed, able
to break and reflect as required. Just as well, since the gear cable housing
I’d ordered hadn’t materialised. I’m sure I had some but ordered more. I wanted
to check 106 links was of the correct length and, given the existing was 106
and still had sufficient life, I bolted the 2X Deore crankset in situ and set
everything up to ride.
Afterall, if the Crane Cousins could journey to the centre of the earth sans front mech, I could for a week, or two. While we all like stuff that comes together first time and with minimal faff, there’s something very satisfying about fine tuning. At this point, I was suddenly struck, dare I say attacked by a horrific thought- that the mech wouldn’t reach the rings. Offering the mech up quashed this anxiety and also confirmed its ideal mounting point-phew!
On the stand, everything seemed to behave and the rear
mech didn’t look unduly strained and was replicated in subsequent rides, so when
some Shimano gear cables arrived, I removed the chain, offered the SR Suntour
mech up and, it fouled the rear tyre…Confidence drained from me like a
straining tea bag. Two options…Buy a new mech, an STX or Deore LX from this
period. Or…Switch Ursula’s STX for the SR Suntour. I did both.
Found a Deore LX for less than
£10 and was relieved to discover ample room between Ursula’s rear tyre, even
with a 2.3. Given I wasn’t going the triple route, I was confident the SR
Suntour would play nicely, and it did. A fresh inner wire, some adjustment of
the H/L screws, and the cage scooped the chain back and forth dutifully. Cable
pruned and glued, I turned my attention to Denise. Existing KMC chain split, I
mounted the STX, fitted a fresh KMC and wired everything up. To my relief, save
for some tweaking of the limit screws, the cage swept the chain between rings.
Some would argue mullet
drivetrains are a better bet and on some technical grounds, I’d agree, but the
36/26 11-25 setup gives me a good, knee-friendly spread between 28.4 and 89
inches. I’d also been toying with replacing the Suntour XC SE cantilever. These
are a rear-specific design from the late 1980s and still offer decent
performance. However, adjustment is a little more involved compared with a
traditional cantilever. I was also seeking something period-sensitive but
without paying period prices
Tektro CR720 were an obvious
default-sensibly priced and certainly up to the job…Then someone waved these
NOS (New Old Stock) Kore under my nose for less than £10. A third of the Tektro’s
rrp, so no debate there. Again, I needed to replace the inner wire, and wanted
to inspect and most likely, re-grease the bosses, so then was the time.
By contrast, the Kore were very easy to set up- I just added some sped grease to the bosses, slotted everything in situ, and adjusted with a 5mm Allen key and 10mm ring spanner. The left balance screw needed a quick turn-using a 3mm Allen key common to all modern multi-tools. Talking of which, I'm off to fine-tune the rear mech.
