Just Because You Can Doesn’t Always Mean You Should

 

One thing often leads to another in my world. I’d spotted some bridlepath while bimbling along the backroads and was curious to see where it led- not very far, ultimately but nothing ventured, nothing gained. I was tempted to tackle it the night before, since I was out bedding in some brake pads and getting some beam shots. However, the Sigma Buster HL2000 SIGMA SPORT BUSTER HL 2000 | cycling-not-racing battery was still charging, so I made a mental note for the following morning.  Having indulged in a mixed terrain loop, I cut right and found myself navigating some recently churned bridleway that required low gears, persistence, deft unclipping and dab-downs.

Conditions improved and at that point I was met with a private no public access sign, so turned around and embraced the gloop once more.  Having filled the CST Patrol’s CST Patrol Folding EPS Tyres | cycling-not-racing tread, turning them into giant slicks (albeit with tangible traction) I rejoined asphalt and headed the two miles home, the CST Patrol shedding mud, mortar fashion.  

I rounded up the bike wash and blitzed Ursula. No sooner had I gone for the sudsy bucket, Fed Ex dropped off some goodies from Muc-Off. Specifically their Dark Energy Chain Wax and Chain Wax Cleaner-the latter optimised for removing wax lubes and others, including the factory packet-fresh elixir. I’d already stripped the Weldtite All Conditions Lube Weldtite All Weather Lube | cycling-not-racing clinging to Ursula’s KMC using Moto Verde Drivetrain cleaner, which is a very effective formula that works cleaner, rather than faster.

A question of spraying over the chain, cassette, rings and leaving the Motoverde doing its thing for 5-10 minutes, then introducing your chosen scrubbing brushes to agitate and lift the residual lube before rinsing with warm water and drying thoroughly.  The Muc-Off Chain Wax cleaner is reckoned to work in seconds, which may account for the (£22) asking price. Looking more closely at the directions suggests it's primarily intended for stripping chains of the factory dressing and similar before waxes are employed. It is also designed to tackle wax formulas, which can be quite tricky to dismiss convincingly, especially if they've been impacted within the chain, cassette and rings. In my experience, solvents tend to melt, rather than dismiss wax formulas, resulting in a gooey mess. Will be interesting to see how it performs.   

The Dark Energy Chain Wax uses a liquid carrier, which in my experience, results in more controlled, less wasteful application. Drop into every link, shift the chain up and down the cassette and leave curing for at least twelve hours- three times longer than typical of wax formulas. Designed for dry to damp conditions, as waxes are, I’m expecting something special. Muc-Off say the Dark Energy Chain Wax has been four years in the making and offers “The most complex balance between efficiency, durability and wear.”

I’m looking forward to seeing what the lanes, trails and roads reveal, once I’ve rolled it out across the fleet.  When it comes to Ursula, though there have been some very small tweaks and personal changes since her refurbishment and modernisation eighteen months back, the makeover pleases me. Retrospectively, I should’ve left more length in the Carbon Cycles Exotic Fork steerer Carbon Cycles Exotic Fork | cycling-not-racing , which would permit me to use more spacers and more traditional flared drops. 

I remain very fond of the Soma Condor II Shallow Drop Bars (riser drops) SOMA CONDOR 2 SHALLOW DROP BARS | and the positioning is bang on. However, the swoopy design means the diameter isn’t uniform throughout and can make mounting or aligning accessories trickier.  Eventually, I will retire the fork, go with a longer steerer and switch the bars but otherwise, cost of new fork, new cables and time switching everything over greatly outweighs the small, some might say, marginal gains. Come time, I will also replace the Tektro 520 levers for Dia Compe 287, since though great value, aesthetically pleasing and comfortable, in my experience, inner wires ultimately wear through the Tektro’s resin guides.    

Now, this brings me to the title. Though Ursula’s modernisation was for me, the right move, I’m not for wholesale conversion of older cross country mountain bikes, for its own sake.  Because everyone appears to be doing something, doesn’t mean it’s the right thing to do.

An old, cosmetically tatty but otherwise solid, good quality cro-moly frameset that needs refinishing, some additional braze-ons might be a good candidate (if an experienced frame builder gave it the nod). However, cantilevers and V brakes still offer excellent stopping prowess, are lighter, and generally simple to maintain.

Similarly, while 26 inch has stopped being the default, tyre choice is still pretty comprehensive, although I can see the draw of 650b, which was another factor influencing Ursula’s structural works. However, this coincided with some light structural repair and a respray- no sense having these done only to decide I wanted a disc mount.   

Discs are not the only fruit. I like them, but they can also get basted in a fair bit of crap, resulting in rub and slightly impaired performance. Then of course, not all frames and forks are beefy enough to withstand the additional forces discs place upon them. A good builder will insist on fitting a brace, such as that added to Ursula by Winston Vaz.

I’m still really fond of Magura’s Hydrostop, but they can be stubborn to set up and were supplied with braces, since their power was sufficient to cause cracks and other structural woes-especially in thin-wall tubing.  On that note, I'll leave you with something completely different- my review of the Coospo Real Road CS600 GPS Computer Coospo CS600 GPS | cycling-not-racing 

 

Lube it, Scrub It, Hold It, True Them

 

Though I generally treat fixed and single speed chains to middleweight wet formulas, I decided Muffin’s Izumi to the Weldtite Wax and was pleasantly surprised by how frisky the transmission felt, while remaining serenely quiet. For context, I was averaging 18.1mph in contexts where otherwise I average 17.1mph.

Without lab testing facilities, much of this is easily attributable to psychosomatic, dare I say novelty influence, so many more miles in different conditions are needed before passing tangible comment. Weldtite say by using the double helping technique I should exceed the 300km mark from a single application, but by how much. What influence, if any do damp, autumnal conditions have upon this and indeed, the lube’s other properties.

Plan is to run it through September and early October, then, chances are I’ll switch to the All-Weather Lube.

Staying with chains, I am always interested in new brushes and similar tech that makes cleaning that bit easier. In my experience, one of the biggest problems is keeping the bristles clean and effective long term.

Too much solvent tends to soften them. Wet lubes and contaminant can also be difficult to shift. This seems the case, regardless of price. I’ve found the most effective technique is to soak them in degreaser, work this into a lather and flush them through-twice. First with very warm, then cool water.

Finally dry (and remove any residual grot with clean rag) The long bristle plots, designed for cassettes and rings are the most vulnerable to this kind of contamination. Will be interesting to see how the Oxford compares with These Finish Line Finish Line Grunge Brush Solo | cycling-not-racing and Muc-Off Muc-Off Bicycle Chain Brush | cycling-not-racing     

 

As the miles rack up, I’m becoming increasingly endeared to the M Part Primo Handlebar Tape.

The texture is grippy but with none of the stickiness associated with some. I’m pleasantly indifferent to the tacky tapes and have grown to love some over time. The Ciclovation Grind Touch CICLOVATION GRIND TOUCH BAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing being one example. ENVE  Enve Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing is also grippy, though stops short of feeling tacky. Its also very hard wearing and easy to clean.

One thing led to another, and I found myself upgrading Denise's quill stem adaptor from the auction site special to this Profile Design, which is perhaps unsurprisingly, made to an infinitely higher standard, with greater scope for adjustment and clearly marked minimum insert line. I also treated the expander wedge and internal length with some of the Zefal Pro II Grease, which will hopefully keep corrosion and seizure at bay.  These minor tweaks have resolved the minor reach issues.  

While giving the bike a while I'm here once-over, I also noted the front wheel dancing a curious samba. I was somewhat astonished- must’ve caught a rut along a section of newly discovered byway. I switched to the Halo Evaura/SL9 HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD pairing with the Maxxis Ravager Maxxis Ravager TR Tyres | cycling-not-racing, while I left the Ryde Sputnik/Ultegra dynohub and Mavic Open Pro/Halo Fix-G HALO FIX G TRACK HUB | Seven Day Cyclist Tourin Tests Commuting with Mick Madgett. An opportunity to explore rougher stuff aboard Ursula and I’d been toying with switching the front Mud Hugger Evo Mudhugger Evo Front Mudguard | cycling-not-racing for something lighter and more minimalist to see just how much difference a smaller guard makes.

Mudguards (fenders) have been slowly creeping into the gravel market. I remain seriously impressed by the Mudhugger Gravel Hugger MUD HUGGER GRAVEL HUGGER MUDGURADS | cycling-not-racingbut other, arguably more traditional looking models have been creeping into the market. Some look to be models aimed at folks wanting their gravel bikes to serve as winter road bikes.

Provided your frame has eyelets and you were happy to run just a rear guard, cutting down a voluptuous mountain bike model, just before the bridge is a cheap but effective and done properly, presentable “for pennies” solution. One I’ve toyed with a few times. Old SKS are in some respects idea candidates- broad, really solid chrome plastics and stays, although unless you could pick some up very cheaply, I'd be inclined to repurpose a scrap pair for this kind of duty. 

As September progresses, I’ve been exploring more of the unmade roads and bridle paths, exploiting Ursula's true off-road pedigree into the bargain. Since her restoration last August, with the notable exception of winter spikes during the season's worst, I've kept her as a drop bar mountain bike shod with sturdy cross-country rubber. Despite some limitations, I'm quite fond of the Continental Cross Kings Continental Cross King Protection Black | cycling-not-racing, but more so the CST Patrol, which represent excellent bang for very modest buck.

In common with the Cross Kings, there are some limitations, especially in bogy mud but for hardpack and less challenging stuff, they're surprisingly swift and grippy.  2.25 sections are still practical propositions for older, cross country mountain bike framesets, while offering a decent amount of compliance and even at 50-55psi, ride quality isn't unduly harsh. There's still a decent amount of choice when it comes to 26-inch but few new models are coming through in this size. 

 

Sliding into September

 

After some long, steady miles and pre soggy season prep, I began contemplating stem lengths and wheel switches. Switching Denise to the WTB drops was a good decision. However, I’ve concluded I needed a shorter extension, since my proportionally short torso means I’m feeling a little stretched.

Cue a quick wander round the web and this 25mm long CNC machined unit from the Far East (of all places!) True, it lacks the exotica or refinement of some, but I was keen to ensure I’d got the correct length and could upgrade later down the line, should need arise. May also upgrade the quill adaptor-had to deal with some reticence when slackening, which ultimately led to discovering the expander wedge shedding its threads. I’ve replaced with one from the spares box and acquired this higher-end replacement and will substitute in due course.  While price typically reflects quality, it’s important to ensure a couple of things.

Firstly, don’t default to the Aheadset method, leave a millimetre or two of the top proud. Secondly, once you’ve everything aligned, ensure you’ve got some grease on the wedge and bolt before torquing it down to around 16nm. The wedge should be well and truly lodged in place- no wibble when rocking the bars as you might when turning sharply, say on as fast descent.  

 There are folks who really dislike quill converters full stop and there are a few options. Have a skilled frame builder add a threadless steerer to the existing fork crown- as Lee Cooper did here Oldie But Goodie: Fork Repair & Revision | cycling-not-racing. Alternatively, Inn Cycle offer a threadless conversion headset. Never seen one in the flesh, so can’t comment but they do look well engineered. Custom quill stems are another option.    

Mick Madgett built the Halo TK hub into the Ryde Taurus rim, which led me to switching Muffin’s Mavic Fix-G. HALO FIX G TRACK HUB | Seven Day Cyclist Tourin Tests Commuting and giving it a good clean.  The sprocket had become quite scuzzy given a few weeks in very hot conditions, turning the Weldtite TF2 All Weather Lube runnier and stickier, so it attracted more dirt. 

It will be interesting to see how the newest PTFE- free version fares in this and other respects. Both variants penetrate the chain’s inner sanctum very effectively and I’ve found the original very effective on fixed gear and single speed chains. Switching Muffin’s rear wheel has me wondering if the chainline was very slightly off with the Fix-G hub and I might need to revise the spacer widths to correct this.

Weldtite has also sent me the latest incarnation of a drip wax they’ve been working on for two years. Claimed to return 300km (186miles) in all conditions, not just balmy summer days, I’ve fed some to Denise’s KMC and Muffin’s Izumi and will see how it fares in the coming, increasingly autumnal weeks.

Generally speaking, I default to middle and heavier weight oils, rather than waxes, or more exotic blends when it comes to fixed and single speed chains. However, fair weather conditions and curiosity are why I’ve gone the wax route. Weldtite suggest you can double up for higher miles per application, so I’ve taken this route, without being overly generous.  

Curing times are influenced by temperatures and other factors, including humidity.  

Deep cleaning recipient drivetrains is essential when it comes to waxes and indeed, lubes of different genres. Applied in temperatures around 20 degrees and given a 45 second shake to mix everything thoroughly, it emerges from the spout very predictably, as middleweight creamy emulsion. Not one I’d risk applying indoors, mind. Curing times are in hours- bargain on four in these temperatures, leave it overnight if you can.

 When cured, it assumes a clear glazed state.  Formative impressions suggest low friction and crisp shifts. The bigger question will be how it sheds contaminant-does it attract less grime, is it one of those that flakes away when contaminant gets trapped in the outer layer, flaking off at a certain point to leave a thinner lubricant layer behind… I’ve reached my conclusions regarding the Silca Nastro Piloti Bar Tape Silca Nastro Piloti Bar Tape | cycling-not-racing, which has (and continues to impress with its rugged, grippy natue-impressive in the wet and offering excellent connections with the bars.

Staying with wet stuff, I’d decided it was time to enjoy some forest and bridlepath fun aboard Ursula- I also wanted to see how the Continental Cross Kings and FLR MXT Vibram Trail Shoes coped with bogy mud. Spoiler alert, feet had more traction than tyres. Having ridden a few miles along some mixed, unmade roads and green lanes and generally enjoying ourselves, I couldn’t resist some very goopy bridlepath.

Whoosh…Big grin was quickly substituted by surprise as we hurled in slow motion towards a hedge. Mercifully, the resilient and relatively soft foliage caught our imminent slide, and I slowly came to soft earth, protecting Ursula into the bargain.  Knobblies had definitely become slicks, and as I suspected, the FLR’s Vibram soles will attract soft gloop. However, as I’d hoped, they do shed it surprisingly well- no issues with clipping in and out.  Having returned, I wasted no time in giving Ursla a justly deserved sudsy bucket wash, drivetrain purge, polish and switch to this Weldtite Wax. 

Forest Frolics & Rainy Reveals

 

The rains came, which was welcome on so many levels and perfect for assessing the performance of tyres and shoes in wet, slippery contexts. I was particularly keen to see how the latest generation of Continental Cross Kings would bite when things tuned slippery, dare we say boggy. They bit and subsequently cornered better than I was expecting but time and  more intense gloop may say different.

They are quite sprightly over hardpack, loose surfaces and indeed, metalled road, although as defaults, I remain impressed by CST Patrol. CST Patrol Folding EPS Tyres | cycling-not-racing I’ve been forming the opinion that the FLR MTX are best suited to broader pedal platforms. Ursula’s Shimano M757 seemed more supportive than more modern dual sided designs and I’ not sure why.

These first generation tend to clog with mud noticeably quicker. I noted some Juice Lubes Bearing Juice creeping from the bodies. Maybe I’d been a little too generous, a little too liberal but we’re talking creep, not oozing. I was also impressed by how well the NOS SR Suntour mech scooped the chain between rings- snappy and reliable, even under load. Sure, it seemed fine on the stand, and designed for a triple, there’s plenty of throw. However, stuff can play impeccably on the stand and misbehave on the road, or trail.   

Upon returning and giving both of us a good clean, using up the last of the Nzero degreaser NZero Bike Degreaser | cycling-not-racing and indeed, the Peaty’s Link Lube All Weather. Then was also the time to switch pedals- I went for the A530 since they should bring out the FLR MXT’s best qualities.

Horses for courses, essentially. While I default to gravel and cross-country mountain bike shoes for general riding, road included, since the soles are stiff but still compliant and grippy enough for walking but are a little too sporty for more adventurous outings, touring particularly.  

These Sidi Aertis are another design that bridge the gap between mountain biking and gravel, although, riding with merino blend socks, I wasn’t surprised to find myself with wet feet given twenty minutes in a heavy downpour. Mercifully, the shoe’s profile means thinner waterproof socks are also realistic (and would be a must for me, during the winter months, although I’d probably switch to the Shimano MW7 Shimano MW7 (MW702) Gore Tex MTB Shoes | cycling-not-racing) by the time things turn wintry wild).

A touring shoe of the FLR’s genre also has scope for waterproof socks. Much as I anticipated, the FLR kept persistent rain at bay for an hour before it became palpable. Fine for commuting and similar duties without recourse to toe covers, overshoes etc. 

Flex was more palpable when on the fixed and charging up the climbs, but I didn't want to go for a single sided, hybrid design. Even though the bottom bracket gives a sporting chance when cornering, there's greater clearance with the Shimano 540 and being dual sided, it's easier to clip in and power away-say at the traffic lights.   

Talking of lights, the new seasons models are beginning to become available. I've been sent this Cat Eye Tight Kinetic, which is impressive for the price. A "braking" function for £23 would've been unheard of, just a few seasons back. I've also received this Lezyne Flow Cage SL Enhanced.

I regret passing my last pair of Lezyne flow on, so was rather pleased to be sent another for testing. Left- and right-hand specific models are nothing new, but some are definitely more ergonomic and though debatable, arguably one of the last words in customisation. On a strictly personal note, Lezyne’s are the best I've used to date.    

Side entry cages are what's called for on smaller compact geometry framesets, since you can both fit and access bottles without catching knuckles on the top tube, or indeed, frame fit pump-should you run one. They’re also a good fit for gravel and bike packing contexts where you’re running a bag within the main triangle.

 I'm a convert to the mini compressor type inflators, at least for roadside rescue, although Muffin, Ursula and Denise still carry a Topeak Road Master Blaster. Muc-Off Airmach and Lezyne as reliable, efficient backups.

The rains and wet roads were really useful from a testing perspective, although I wasn't surprised to discover things performing as I'd expected. However, standing water meant bikes were suitably filthy given a few outings. I'd seen some bike wash going silly cheap and was keen to see how it compared with some premium blends, not least since I was down to the Stan's No tubes.

 I tend to give bikes a good wash n' wax, since they cut through the grime, while leaving a protective wax barrier behind. Nonetheless, I don't always want to take this route and bike washes still have their place. 

I was pleasantly surprised by how effective the budget potions were on heavily encrusted organic grot, although as I'd hope it's not potent enough to strip oily, or greasy stuff. I reached for this Dynamic drivetrain detox to strip the residual Peaty's Like Lube and modest contaminant from the rings, chain and cassette.

Having exhausted this, I've switched to TF2, which is a competent and inexpensive all-weather formula that holds out well in moderately wet conditions, although attracts more contaminant than more sophisticated blends and also contains PTFE, which isn't particularly kind to us, or the wider environment. Formative outings on Muffin suggests the thru axle to quick release conversion is very dependable and seems slightly stiffer than traditional quick release configuration. I've also gone for the slightly narrower (38mm section) Vittoria adventure tyres, which run at a similar pressure to the Continentals and gives a little more clearance around the Gravel Hugger front guard.  Talking of tyres, here’s my review of the Maxxis Rambler Maxxis Rambler Tubeless Ready Tyres | cycling-not-racing

Shakedowns & Subtle Tweaks

 

 Built, checked and tweaked, it was time to take “Muffin” the Mulo for a quick 15mile shakedown ride. I’d erred on the side of less chain tension with a view to dialling it in, rather than too tight.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, given my switch to 40mm tyres, the ride quality was much smoother, though it wasn’t difficult to coax “Muffin” up to speed and keep on the boil- 41cm chainstays certainly help. The front end also feels more responsive, without being twitchy, and the frame’s lateral stiffness is also an improvement over the otherwise very loveable V2.

Predictably, I needed to tweak the Aheadset bearing tension and found myself switching the TRP Spyre for its loftier SLC stablemate, having given the calliper a good clean and replaced the pads. Three rides in and I detected the ring bolts needed snugging down slightly. A small, insignificant job…

However, my Park pattern tool that holds the collar still while you tighten the 5mm/T30 Torx bolt wasn’t arresting the collar properly. This prompted purchase of a T handle design from a well-known London bike dealership that I frequented regularly when living in the capital.

Given it was a bank holiday weekend, I had to wait a day or two, which presented an ideal opportunity to hop aboard Ursula and get some miles in on the Continental Cross Kings. Having enjoyed a frolic through the forests, I found myself being chased by an incredibly determined goose. Mercifully, I was able to outpace-either that, or the goose recognised I wasn’t a threat.

550 miles racked up with The CST Patrol, I’m generally impressed by their capabilities as wallet-friendly all-rounders, although I’ve noted the Continental Cross King Black Chili require less effort to coax up to speed in comparable contexts/conditions. Puncture resistance, specifically vulnerability to hedge clippings and similar sharps was an issue I’d had with earlier incarnations of the Cross Kings, so it will be interesting to see how influential the Black Chili compound is. While testing the CST Patrol’s prowess, I happened upon a completely deserted stretch of unmade and sometimes quite technical gravel road.

I’d had a quick exploratory hoss along the bridleway on previous occasions but was deterred of further exploration due to farm traffic and general agricultural activity. The Patrol coped handsomely, offering excellent traction, control and indeed cushioning over the lumpy, bumpy and sometimes pot holed route, which ran for a mile or two.    

I’d also switched from the Motorex Wax Lube to Peaty’s Link Lube All Weather courtesy of Dynamic Bio Drivetrain Detox. The Link Lube All Weather is best thought of as a bridge lube for those conditions where you want something more substantial than a wax, or dry formula but with a friskier shifting and feel than traditional middleweights.

Wax chain lubes may be less stoical than other types, but in my experience, they can congeal quite stubbornly, particularly on rings and cassettes. While the Dynamic was visually engaging and crucially stripped the rings and cassette clean with nominal effort, it was slower acting than some degreaser stocks I’ve evaluated over the years.

Water must be applied to the hosts beforehand and The Drivetrain Bio Drivetrain Detox left to marinate for two to three minutes, so one of those formulas seemingly best suited to holistic bike cleans, rather than situations where the bike’s fundamentally clean, but you just want to change lube.  It’s also reckoned sufficiently potent to strip waterproof greases, so we’ll see. 

Back to “Muffin” Chain ring tool in hand, I whipped out the Park Tool Wrench, dialled it up to 10nm, introduced the crank bolt tool-Huzzah! Another little job done. Talking of torque Wrenches, here’s my mini budget model group test Three Budget Torque Wrench Test | cycling-not-racing