Overhauling

 

Having packed the headset, I added a fresh butyl boot to the bottom race, bolted the bars and stem in situ, if only to keep the forks in place. I then decided I fancied the Dia Compe 287 levers over the Gran Compe, so switched those, then got to the business of pruning cable outers and bolting everything together.

Doing so revealed a very sticky rear Spyre calliper. In some respects, a schoolboy omission-I should’ve inspected it while tackling the front. Ultimately, sticky, not seized and easily coaxed into submission with two shots of MO94. Activating the calliper accelerated the process, freeing everything nicely.  

Cable connected and some more MO94 Muc-Off MO94 Multi Use Spray | cycling-not-racing applied to the housings and inner wire, normal service restored. Front brake fully home, I rocked the bike back and forth- serenely smooth and no hint of play, so checked alignment and snugged the pinch bolts to 5nm. I quit at this point, since other things required my attention and I was awaiting a fresh set of gear cables.

These didn’t materialise as expected, but thankfully, I had a few inner wires and some suitable outers, so sorted the following morning. I allowed these to stretch and dressed the Ridgeback branded drops in some Genetic Hi Grip Genetic Hi-Grip Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing, which offered sufficient coverage, but there wasn’t much leftover.

Inspecting the chain revealed .5, so I decided to pension it off, rather than risk it kicking up on a new cassette. I wanted to purge the rings of any congealed wax chain lube and embedded gunk. I also intended to strip and re-grease the Hollowtech II axle and Leatt Endurance 6.0 Pedals Leatt Endurance 6.0 Clip in Pedals | cycling-not-racing using Juice Lubes Slick Juice. Rob at Juice Lubes sent some along with their Bike Wash and Bike Wash Super Concentrate.  

In essence, the slick Juice is a low viscosity mineral oil employing Anhydrous calcium soap as the thickening agent, which prevents washout and other premature deterioration. The mixture is carefully blended, so safe on elastomers, bearing seals and carbon fibre.  Where it mustn’t be used is on EDM

Slick Juice can also be used on threaded components, so I popped some on the preload ring and pinch bolts. The latter released easily enough but were beginning to look a little thirsty. Everything reinstated and snugged to the correct tolerances, pruned and glued the gear cable inners before going through the gears to check shifting and chain for any stiff links.

No reason why the Slick couldn’t be employed in headsets, but I’d already packed them with Bearing Juice. When it comes to headsets, bottom brackets, and hubs, durability gets my vote. At least on bikes serving year-round. Slick Juice’s flow rate is very nice, so easy to achieve a uniform coating  

However, avoid EPDM- commonly employed on e-bike contacts, hydraulic brake olives.

Not that I’ve been stingy. It can also be applied via syringe for pinpoint accuracy-something to consider if you’re wanting to inject fresh grease into components with grease ports, or indeed pedals, without doing a full strip down.

Talking of which, the cheap n’ cheerful Wellgo 823 are incredibly smooth, following the injection of Speed Grease. Both can also be used on threaded components, which is a welcome convenience-especially when time’s pressing.  

Satisfied everything was correctly adjusted, I applied some All-Mountain Style Miami Glide Chain Wax and left it curing ahead of an evening shakedown ride.  Seemed to cure after three hours at 17 degrees, although I’d ideally leave it overnight-same goes for any lube with a suggested curing time of four hours or more.

The sharp-eyed will note the front derailleur cable housing is a little long, but shifting’s prompt and better too long than too short. I will be pruning in due course, but since its aesthetic, no immediate rush.  

Clearly resembling a zebra, I was shunned by the Shetland ponies-one making his distain perfectly clear but otherwise, the seven-mile mixed terrain shakedown was very positive. Only the headset bearings and the front mudguard needed a subtle snugging down.

Elsewhere, Castelli have sent me their Ultimate Sun Protection: UPF Jersey, which boasts a yarn with factor 50 promising excellent defence from the sun’s UV rays.

The lightweight polyester fabrics are designed with breathability and maximum (factor 50) sun protection in mind. I’ll still advocate wearing a buff-type garment around the neck to guard against sunstroke in more intense heat, or indeed, wind burn. Especially when riding in coastal regions. Obviously, you’ll still want to apply suitable sunscreen to protect exposed areas of skin.

Those seeking more comprehensive protection will be pleased to note there’s also a long-sleeved version. Ours is the seasonally standard short sleeve, cut longer in the arms and around the neck The fabric is thin, without feeling fragile. Front panels feature slight perforation for improved wicking.

A full-length zipper is something of a given these days, but the generous zipper tag makes single-handed adjustments effortless.  Round the back, we’ve four pockets- three sensibly proportioned terraced with a fourth zippered end for valuables. That tag is a little bijous for my tastes and favours right-dominant hands. I can carry vivid orange surprisingly well, but “silver gray” is the alternative.

I’ve only ridden 100 miles with ours, but formative impressions are favourable. Castelli’s suggested temperature range is 20-38 degrees. I’ve been out in the midday sun (12-1600) where the mercury’s been hovering between 24 and 29 degrees and thus far, living up to the hype, although the Large isn’t unduly snug, or unflattering but I’m wondering if XL might’ve been optimal. 

Sweet Spots, Holy Grails & More Spuds

 

 Aside from reducing the chain tension very slightly before setting out, Muffin’s gearing is perfect for my needs.  Providing the desired additional torque on the climbs without my legs going into overdrive on the descents.

I also needed to tweak the headset bearings slightly, having detected some play when engaging the front brake. An easy, two-minute fix- slacken the pinch bolts, snug the pre-load a fraction, test by rocking back and forth with the front brake engaged, then snug the pinch bolts to 5nm.  Having been somewhat underwhelmed by the Gaciron Xiaoman 1000’s handlebar mount, I discovered that belonging to the Ravemen LR1600 Ravemen LR1600 Front Light | cycling-not-racing was compatible and popped that in situ for a few rides.

This proved a great union, but I subsequently replaced it with this auction site stem face special, meaning I could switch to the Xiaoman’s Go-Pro pattern under bar mount. Talking of lights, here’s my long-term test of the Zefal Supervision FL 1500 Front Light Zefal Supervision FL1500 front light | cycling-not-racing.  

 Modulation and feel from the Vevo V lever is smooth, progressive and basically I'd had everything dialled in to my taste. Well, it gave rise to some further tweaks. I’d added some off cuts of Cinelli Cork Wrap to the Genetic Neuron GENETIC NEURON ACCESSORY BAR | cycling-not-racing since I had some left and it was neater than the scraps of old butyl. This was employed to prevent slight, very gradual movement of the K-Lite Ultra Low Drag Dynamo Light K-LITE ULTRA LOW DRAG DYNAMO LIGHT | cycling-not-racing

Formative impressions of the Genetic Hi-Grip bar tape are similarly favourable, although the finishing strips have been creeping undone and will likely be substituted for decent quality electrical tape.  Having amassed some proper miles with Muffin's new bars and levers, I've concluded the switch was definitely inspired.

The shallower drop allows me to spend more time hunkered low, rather than cruising on the hoods (which is also a very comfortable stance). 44cm width continues this narrative, although tis came as a slightly greater surprise, given I default to 46cm. Being a tarmac-biased build, aerodynamics are subtly improved and I don't require the same degree of leverage beneficial on a gravel or drop bar mountain bike. 

Fairweather conditions put much less strain on components, so I switched Muffin to its other dynohub wheel, shod with the 42mm section Maxxis Roamer TESTED: MAXXIS ROAMER TYRES for some additional speed and compliance. There’s only 80g separating the Roamer and Vittoria Adventure Tech.

Both are cheap but crucially very cheerful. The Vittoria Adventure Tech are available in 700x 38, 35 and 32mm sections features a beefy 5mm puncture repelling belt, which inspires confidence during the darker months, and ride quality is better than 33tpi casings would suggest. Wear has been nominal too, continuing the stout narrative, meaning they’re a good choice for commuting and weekend touring.

The Roamer employs a Kevlar breaker strip along the centre. Consequently, puncture resistance is good, rather than great, which is why they’re my fair-weather choice. Again, there’s scope for exploring light, hardpack and lightweight, weekend touring but the Roamer’s 60tpi casings provide a more engaging, compliant ride.  

There are some components that I may not use very frequently but will never part with. Design classics and sentiment being the obvious attachments. These Shimano SPD from 1990 being prime examples. I’d stripped and serviced last year and found the internals in remarkably good shape.

Back then, I repacked them with Juice Lubes Bearing Juice, which is a synthetic blend with a putty-like consistency intended specifically for bearings.  I’ve used it to particularly good effect in hubs and headsets. Opening the mighty first-generation Spuds revealed a decent amount clinging to the bearings and axles. Simple Pedal Overhaul | cycling-not-racing

However, since I’d come this far, I decided I’d give them a deep clean using Motoverde Drivetrain Cleaner Motoverde Drivetrain Cleaner | cycling-not-racing before repacking them with Zefal Pro II Grease Zefal Pro II Grease | cycling-not-racing  . Pedals are nice things to work on, since you can sit at a bench and methodically clean, inspect, adjust and replace bearings etc as required.

There are a few schools of thought when it comes to clipless and fixed gear. I've used everything from the old "Lego-type" Look, through to Time ATAC, although have typically stuck with dual sided Shimano and Welgo, since they're inexpensive and very straightforward to service.

Single sided road designs, such as these Wellgo and indeed, Shimano Ultegra are quite pleasant and when packed with stiff grease, tend to align upright, ready for easy entry, say at the lights. Fine, if you're doing long, steady miles, or racing TTs, but lack a dual sided model's convenience-especially in stop-go traffic.

I've also run nickel-plated Exustar pedals- Look (Keo) pattern one side, SPD the other. Designed primarily for spinning/similar duties, they meant I never let the house with the "wrong" shoes, so an obvious choice for a trainer, or daily driver. However, there's some trade-off weight-wise given the steel, rather than alloy bodies.

They resisted corrosion pretty well too-waxed periodically, coupled with shots of maintenance spray to the mechanisms, which also gave the bodies a light, protective coating. Wellgo MO94B WELLGO MO94B SPD PEDALS | cycling-not-racing have proven very solid alternative to Shimano M520 thanks to the rugged silver finish and buttery smooth cartridge bearings. 

The WPD 823 are cheaper still and a good budget alternative-£30 but I've seen the version with loose ball bearings for £15 including cleats-new. Access to the bearings is via a simple press fit cover, which is convenient. These were a little squeaky, the grease looking closer to recycled chip fat. Subsequently, I’ve packed them with Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing