Overhauling

 

Having packed the headset, I added a fresh butyl boot to the bottom race, bolted the bars and stem in situ, if only to keep the forks in place. I then decided I fancied the Dia Compe 287 levers over the Gran Compe, so switched those, then got to the business of pruning cable outers and bolting everything together.

Doing so revealed a very sticky rear Spyre calliper. In some respects, a schoolboy omission-I should’ve inspected it while tackling the front. Ultimately, sticky, not seized and easily coaxed into submission with two shots of MO94. Activating the calliper accelerated the process, freeing everything nicely.  

Cable connected and some more MO94 Muc-Off MO94 Multi Use Spray | cycling-not-racing applied to the housings and inner wire, normal service restored. Front brake fully home, I rocked the bike back and forth- serenely smooth and no hint of play, so checked alignment and snugged the pinch bolts to 5nm. I quit at this point, since other things required my attention and I was awaiting a fresh set of gear cables.

These didn’t materialise as expected, but thankfully, I had a few inner wires and some suitable outers, so sorted the following morning. I allowed these to stretch and dressed the Ridgeback branded drops in some Genetic Hi Grip Genetic Hi-Grip Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing, which offered sufficient coverage, but there wasn’t much leftover.

Inspecting the chain revealed .5, so I decided to pension it off, rather than risk it kicking up on a new cassette. I wanted to purge the rings of any congealed wax chain lube and embedded gunk. I also intended to strip and re-grease the Hollowtech II axle and Leatt Endurance 6.0 Pedals Leatt Endurance 6.0 Clip in Pedals | cycling-not-racing using Juice Lubes Slick Juice. Rob at Juice Lubes sent some along with their Bike Wash and Bike Wash Super Concentrate.  

In essence, the slick Juice is a low viscosity mineral oil employing Anhydrous calcium soap as the thickening agent, which prevents washout and other premature deterioration. The mixture is carefully blended, so safe on elastomers, bearing seals and carbon fibre.  Where it mustn’t be used is on EDM

Slick Juice can also be used on threaded components, so I popped some on the preload ring and pinch bolts. The latter released easily enough but were beginning to look a little thirsty. Everything reinstated and snugged to the correct tolerances, pruned and glued the gear cable inners before going through the gears to check shifting and chain for any stiff links.

No reason why the Slick couldn’t be employed in headsets, but I’d already packed them with Bearing Juice. When it comes to headsets, bottom brackets, and hubs, durability gets my vote. At least on bikes serving year-round. Slick Juice’s flow rate is very nice, so easy to achieve a uniform coating  

However, avoid EPDM- commonly employed on e-bike contacts, hydraulic brake olives.

Not that I’ve been stingy. It can also be applied via syringe for pinpoint accuracy-something to consider if you’re wanting to inject fresh grease into components with grease ports, or indeed pedals, without doing a full strip down.

Talking of which, the cheap n’ cheerful Wellgo 823 are incredibly smooth, following the injection of Speed Grease. Both can also be used on threaded components, which is a welcome convenience-especially when time’s pressing.  

Satisfied everything was correctly adjusted, I applied some All-Mountain Style Miami Glide Chain Wax and left it curing ahead of an evening shakedown ride.  Seemed to cure after three hours at 17 degrees, although I’d ideally leave it overnight-same goes for any lube with a suggested curing time of four hours or more.

The sharp-eyed will note the front derailleur cable housing is a little long, but shifting’s prompt and better too long than too short. I will be pruning in due course, but since its aesthetic, no immediate rush.  

Clearly resembling a zebra, I was shunned by the Shetland ponies-one making his distain perfectly clear but otherwise, the seven-mile mixed terrain shakedown was very positive. Only the headset bearings and the front mudguard needed a subtle snugging down.

Elsewhere, Castelli have sent me their Ultimate Sun Protection: UPF Jersey, which boasts a yarn with factor 50 promising excellent defence from the sun’s UV rays.

The lightweight polyester fabrics are designed with breathability and maximum (factor 50) sun protection in mind. I’ll still advocate wearing a buff-type garment around the neck to guard against sunstroke in more intense heat, or indeed, wind burn. Especially when riding in coastal regions. Obviously, you’ll still want to apply suitable sunscreen to protect exposed areas of skin.

Those seeking more comprehensive protection will be pleased to note there’s also a long-sleeved version. Ours is the seasonally standard short sleeve, cut longer in the arms and around the neck The fabric is thin, without feeling fragile. Front panels feature slight perforation for improved wicking.

A full-length zipper is something of a given these days, but the generous zipper tag makes single-handed adjustments effortless.  Round the back, we’ve four pockets- three sensibly proportioned terraced with a fourth zippered end for valuables. That tag is a little bijous for my tastes and favours right-dominant hands. I can carry vivid orange surprisingly well, but “silver gray” is the alternative.

I’ve only ridden 100 miles with ours, but formative impressions are favourable. Castelli’s suggested temperature range is 20-38 degrees. I’ve been out in the midday sun (12-1600) where the mercury’s been hovering between 24 and 29 degrees and thus far, living up to the hype, although the Large isn’t unduly snug, or unflattering but I’m wondering if XL might’ve been optimal. 

Another Year Almost Done....

 

On the cusp of 2026, I’ve been reflecting on 2025.  Many miles in the saddle, there have been lots of subtle tweaks and changes across the board. Ursula’s frame modifications have proved their worth. I’ve switched the rear quick release for the electroplated trailer model. I’ve experienced some occasional disc rub-easily addressed using some simple adjustments.  

Thru axles are the best pairings on the stiffness fronts, which may be a consideration for those taking the modernisation route. Talking of which, many frame builders will shy away from retrofitting disc mounts to older, thinner tubed framesets. By all means ask them and to explain their reservations but (this goes for any other profession, or trade) never try cajoling someone into doing something they are not comfortable doing. There’s usually a very sound reasoning behind that reticence.  

Before concerning yourself with calliper alignment and more involved diagnostics, start with some simple stuff. With the bike set down, undo the quick release and check the wheel is properly set in the dropouts and centred. Next, with the quick release open, pull the brake lever fully home, while simultaneously closing the quick release.

Pump the lever ten times and roll the bike or spin the wheel to test for any binding.  I was happy with the Spyre SLC’s alignment, so felt no need to meddle and on this occasion, all sorted. This had coincided with yet another sudsy bucket clean, since Ursula needed it, after a week belting along greasy, muddy lanes. I also wanted to  strip what remained of the Weldtite All Weather Lube Weldtite All Weather Lube | cycling-not-racing and introduce some Muc Off C3 Ceramic All Weather Chain Lube Muc-Off C3 All Weather Chain Lube | cycling-not-racing- just fancied a change to be honest.

Several months and many miles down the line, the Leatt Endurance 6.0 Clip in Pedals  Leatt Endurance 6.0 Clip in Pedals | cycling-not-racing  which are understated and just get on with the job- no flex, creaking and while mud shedding doesn’t rival Time’s mighty ATAC, they’ll shift boggy clay soil with reassuring ease.

Switching to the Ergon All Road Core Comp SaddleErgon SR All Road Core Comp Saddle Men | cycling-not-racing has proved music to my derriere, and I’m pleased to report the right hand Microshift bar end shifter is behaving properly, so all told, I’ve refined the contact points to personal perfection. Long term use has me concluding CST Patrol CST Patrol Folding EPS Tyres | cycling-not-racing are a better fit for me and my riding style than the Continental Cross King Protection Black Chili Tyres Continental Cross King Protection Black | cycling-not-racing

Phantom squeaks strike now and again- can be something and nothing. Muffin’s creak wasn’t the D-riser 4 bars, rather the Cane Creek dummy/stoker lever needing a quick turn of the 5mm Allen key. I’ve had these for many years and found their ergonomics incredibly comfortable for cruising and climbing.  Obviously tandems are their primary audience, but they make a lot of sense on a fixed gear build, or indeed, a trike, or something similarly specialist employing a 2-in1, linked brake. I’m considering revisiting the 146mm wide Cycles Berthoud Soulor CYCLES BERTHOUD SOULOR LEATHER SADDLE | cycling-not-racing  or The titanium railed Spa Cycles Aire for a while.  I’ve decided to whip the Aire atop Muffin’s USE post, since I needed to strip and regrease some of the hardware.

In fairness, there was a reasonably stoical, thin layer of Oxford Mint Assembly Grease Oxford Mint Assembly Grease | cycling-not-racing . However, prevention is always better than cure and since I was switching saddles, then was the time. I’ve reached for the Zefal Pro II Grease Zefal Pro II Grease | cycling-not-racing   

The Soulor is 7mm broader than the Ergon SR All Road Saddle Ergon SR All Road Men’s Saddle | cycling-not-racing and a bit heavier too. I’m curious to see how good a fit it is with Muffin.

Dimensions wise, its identical to the iconic 80’s Selle Italia Turbo, which I got along with just fine for several years. I had two versions, the suede and a leather covered gel version c. 1993-96. Staying with the late 80s, I had a Selle San Marco Concor Super Corsa homage- wore the suede smooth and ultimately sold it to a fellow student for £8 in 1994.  

Winter is hard on stuff as I’m always saying and cables are no exception. I wasn’t surprised to discover a frayed inner still commanding Ursula’s front Suntour mech-one of those routine jobs that saves a lot of hassle later down the line. Another illustration of why its important to wash and inspect bikes regularly during the darker months.   

The muddy, slippery season has also presented opportunity to put the Zefal G50 Gravel Mudguards to the test and as I’d expected, they offer a decent amount of coverage-at least to the rider, without fouling when things get gooey.

 Longer term, I’m contemplating a hybrid setup for Denise- leaving the rear G50 I situ and running a Mud Hugger Gravel Hugger up front. We’ll see, this is more of an aesthetic, rather than performance thing. The great thing about the G50 is their compatibility with cantilever brakes, lending them to older ‘cross, hybrid and gravel builds. I like disc brakes and for a wealth of applications, they’re great, but cantilevers and other rim brakes still have genuine advantages and perform very well. Particularly with higher end cables and pads.

 

September Switches & Style Statements

 

The wet and decidedly abrupt introduction to September was perfect for assessing the staying prowess of chain lubes, tyres and waterproof technical kit. I'd been wanting to see how effective the Leatt pedals were at shedding mud and other contaminant, so switched Ursula's Shimano A530 and headed for the bridleways.

I wasn't expecting otherwise but was relieved to discover they're on par with Shimano M540 (which I’ve switched back to Muffin following a generous re-greasing), XT and their homages.  The waterlogged conditions have also seen me donning these Shimano MW702 Shimano MW7 (MW702) Gore Tex MTB Shoes | cycling-not-racing booties, which make an excellent transition between cross country mountain biking/gravel riding and general winter road duties.

 I'm still fond of the MW05Shimano MW501 Dry Shield SPD MTB Shoes | cycling-not-racing, but the MW07's stiffer sole, refinements and improved weatherproofing give better connection with the bike and protection from the wetter roads. Especially paired with waterproof socks-no such thing as the wrong weather, just the wrong kit. Oh,and yes, I know Ursula’s front guard is the “wrong” way round-I’m experimenting to see how much difference this makes-good, or otherwise.  

 Somewhat predictably, the constant exposure to wet, waterlogged roads has put a dent in the Weldtite Wax lubes’ staying prowess.

 Nonetheless, I returned 140 miles from a double up application on Muffin and applied a top up since it coincided with a deep sudsy bucket clean.  Even then, a tangible filmy later remained and no trace of corrosion on the links.  Ursula and I continue to enjoy the green lanes and bridleways to see how clean and stoical the wax proves in these contexts. Then of course, I wanted to see how effectively the Leatt Endurance 6 pedals shed mud.

Temperatures have been in the high teens, so I've stuck to bib shorts, although have progressed to ¾ lengths on dawn outings when the mercury's still slumbering in single figures.  Staying with footwear a moment, I’ve also reached my conclusions regarding the FLR MXT Vibram Trail Shoes FLR MXT Vibram Trail Shoes | cycling-not-racing

 ¾ lengths have often been regarded as a rider faux pas off road and on some levels, I agree. However, they're also very practical bridge garments and relatively complementary worn with more trail orientated jackets, such as the Madison RoamMadison Roam 2.5 Layer Waterproof Jacket | cycling-not-racing . Nothing against mtb baggies, they just aren't my thing. 

Now the nights are drawing in and its dark in this region from 1900hrs onward, it’s nice to find ourselves receiving a gentle trickle of winter kit. On the lighting front, we’ve just taken delivery of this Sigma Buster 1600 and RL150 pairing, which as the names would imply is a front light pumping out a maximum of 1600lumens and a rear light capable of 150, which promises to cater for the darkest lanes. That said, this genre of front light, run times are relatively short at full and higher outputs, so ensure the lower modes are suitable for your typical riding requirements.

It will be interesting to see how it compares with the Ravemen LR1600 USB Rechargeable Curved Lens Front Light Ravemen LR1600 Front Light | cycling-not-racing  The RL150 has five modes. Two steady and three flashing. The full 150 refers to the day flash, night flash is 25 lumens and eco flash is 5. The two steady are 40 and 5 lumens respectively, which on paper at least, sounds a wide gap- something around the 10, or 15 lumen mark would’ve been more obvious. However, real world performance is what really counts.

There’s also a braking function and I’m curious as to how much of an impact this will have on the run times.

I’m still toying with the idea of placing one inch Ahead spacers beneath Denises’s stem. Now, there is no mechanical need to do this, since the expander wedge is what keeps everything firmly in situ. The Profile Design adaptor is also made to a much higher standard than the no-name auction site specials.  However, I have some black spacers in the spares tray, which would work both in terms of height and aesthetics. I’ll give it a few weeks and some more thought.  

Though I tackled most of the pre-autumn stripping, regreasing and corrosion inhibiting, it’s that time of year to add a lick of silicone grease to battery contacts on computers and where appropriate, lights to keep the elements from wreaking havoc. IPX6 isn’t uncommon for lights these days but those meeting IPX4 or 5 usually get a quick lick, or periodic shot of PTFE free maintenance spray to flush through and leave a protective barrier behind.  

Breaks in the wetter conditions has also seen my checking and topping up the waxy corrosion inhibitors before the cold, dark and wetter months set in. This obviously extended to cars. There was a generous helping cling to the KA’s chassis and underbody, which as reassuring, although I’ve given a light top up coat while opportunity presented and it would cure quickly enough to avoid moisture being trapped inside.