Overhauling

 

Having packed the headset, I added a fresh butyl boot to the bottom race, bolted the bars and stem in situ, if only to keep the forks in place. I then decided I fancied the Dia Compe 287 levers over the Gran Compe, so switched those, then got to the business of pruning cable outers and bolting everything together.

Doing so revealed a very sticky rear Spyre calliper. In some respects, a schoolboy omission-I should’ve inspected it while tackling the front. Ultimately, sticky, not seized and easily coaxed into submission with two shots of MO94. Activating the calliper accelerated the process, freeing everything nicely.  

Cable connected and some more MO94 Muc-Off MO94 Multi Use Spray | cycling-not-racing applied to the housings and inner wire, normal service restored. Front brake fully home, I rocked the bike back and forth- serenely smooth and no hint of play, so checked alignment and snugged the pinch bolts to 5nm. I quit at this point, since other things required my attention and I was awaiting a fresh set of gear cables.

These didn’t materialise as expected, but thankfully, I had a few inner wires and some suitable outers, so sorted the following morning. I allowed these to stretch and dressed the Ridgeback branded drops in some Genetic Hi Grip Genetic Hi-Grip Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing, which offered sufficient coverage, but there wasn’t much leftover.

Inspecting the chain revealed .5, so I decided to pension it off, rather than risk it kicking up on a new cassette. I wanted to purge the rings of any congealed wax chain lube and embedded gunk. I also intended to strip and re-grease the Hollowtech II axle and Leatt Endurance 6.0 Pedals Leatt Endurance 6.0 Clip in Pedals | cycling-not-racing using Juice Lubes Slick Juice. Rob at Juice Lubes sent some along with their Bike Wash and Bike Wash Super Concentrate.  

In essence, the slick Juice is a low viscosity mineral oil employing Anhydrous calcium soap as the thickening agent, which prevents washout and other premature deterioration. The mixture is carefully blended, so safe on elastomers, bearing seals and carbon fibre.  Where it mustn’t be used is on EDM

Slick Juice can also be used on threaded components, so I popped some on the preload ring and pinch bolts. The latter released easily enough but were beginning to look a little thirsty. Everything reinstated and snugged to the correct tolerances, pruned and glued the gear cable inners before going through the gears to check shifting and chain for any stiff links.

No reason why the Slick couldn’t be employed in headsets, but I’d already packed them with Bearing Juice. When it comes to headsets, bottom brackets, and hubs, durability gets my vote. At least on bikes serving year-round. Slick Juice’s flow rate is very nice, so easy to achieve a uniform coating  

However, avoid EPDM- commonly employed on e-bike contacts, hydraulic brake olives.

Not that I’ve been stingy. It can also be applied via syringe for pinpoint accuracy-something to consider if you’re wanting to inject fresh grease into components with grease ports, or indeed pedals, without doing a full strip down.

Talking of which, the cheap n’ cheerful Wellgo 823 are incredibly smooth, following the injection of Speed Grease. Both can also be used on threaded components, which is a welcome convenience-especially when time’s pressing.  

Satisfied everything was correctly adjusted, I applied some All-Mountain Style Miami Glide Chain Wax and left it curing ahead of an evening shakedown ride.  Seemed to cure after three hours at 17 degrees, although I’d ideally leave it overnight-same goes for any lube with a suggested curing time of four hours or more.

The sharp-eyed will note the front derailleur cable housing is a little long, but shifting’s prompt and better too long than too short. I will be pruning in due course, but since its aesthetic, no immediate rush.  

Clearly resembling a zebra, I was shunned by the Shetland ponies-one making his distain perfectly clear but otherwise, the seven-mile mixed terrain shakedown was very positive. Only the headset bearings and the front mudguard needed a subtle snugging down.

Elsewhere, Castelli have sent me their Ultimate Sun Protection: UPF Jersey, which boasts a yarn with factor 50 promising excellent defence from the sun’s UV rays.

The lightweight polyester fabrics are designed with breathability and maximum (factor 50) sun protection in mind. I’ll still advocate wearing a buff-type garment around the neck to guard against sunstroke in more intense heat, or indeed, wind burn. Especially when riding in coastal regions. Obviously, you’ll still want to apply suitable sunscreen to protect exposed areas of skin.

Those seeking more comprehensive protection will be pleased to note there’s also a long-sleeved version. Ours is the seasonally standard short sleeve, cut longer in the arms and around the neck The fabric is thin, without feeling fragile. Front panels feature slight perforation for improved wicking.

A full-length zipper is something of a given these days, but the generous zipper tag makes single-handed adjustments effortless.  Round the back, we’ve four pockets- three sensibly proportioned terraced with a fourth zippered end for valuables. That tag is a little bijous for my tastes and favours right-dominant hands. I can carry vivid orange surprisingly well, but “silver gray” is the alternative.

I’ve only ridden 100 miles with ours, but formative impressions are favourable. Castelli’s suggested temperature range is 20-38 degrees. I’ve been out in the midday sun (12-1600) where the mercury’s been hovering between 24 and 29 degrees and thus far, living up to the hype, although the Large isn’t unduly snug, or unflattering but I’m wondering if XL might’ve been optimal. 

When Things Go Smoothly...

 I’ve seen a bit of bar con bashing online recently. In common with others who are vocal in their destain for things, much of the comments come from ignorance, so are arguably irrelevant. Some suggesting cables run THROUGH the handlebars. Sure, they’ve fallen from mainstream gaze and lack the light, snappiness of Brifters but they’re also lighter and ultra-dependable. Great for back of beyond touring, beasts of burden, and indeed, daily drivers like Ursula.  

Microshift still makes them (and continues the dependable theme with their Sword and Advent group sets). Hot on the heels of the Spyre SLC, Ursula’s rear Shimano CX50 cantilever pads had gathered some glaze and needed a quick scrub. It also presented the opportunity to strip and lightly grease the posts. The straddle wire was also beginning to look tired, so was also replaced. Consumables are eaten quickly through winter, especially if you do bigger mileages.  

I’d spotted a rear Tiagra mech, pads etc being sold as bankrupt stock and at very enticing prices. Sad, since it’s never good to see, or hear of businesses going to the wall. In the late 80s, it was common for people without business acumen, financial literacy, or experience to open enterprises and often fail catastrophically. However, it's become increasingly prevalent for established and successful traders in post-Brexit Britain.     

Little and often maintenance becomes second nature, extends the life of components, and usually stops trouble before it starts. I’d applied a light helping of Muc-Off HCB1 to Ursula’s chain stay bridge area and the BBB Echelon saddle rails, which were showing some localised corrosion.  

Again, nothing to get excited about at this stage and HCB1 will mothball, stopping surface grot in its tracks. Yes, generic maintenance sprays will certainly help on this front, but need more frequent reapplication and are readily washed away. They’re meant for light lubrication of cables, and pivot points, flushing wet, corrosive stuff out, priming chains removing muck, and grime, loosening sticky/lightly corroded parts.     

Back to the Holdsworth 

Having removed the Woodman Jupiter’s lower cup cum race with a few deft taps of my trusty crown race tool. (It also needed a little chemical assistance, courtesy of some Muc-Off MO 94). I set it carefully on the Holdsworth’s crown and decided there was sufficient Park PPL100 TESTED: PARK TOOL POLYLUBE 1000 LUBRICANT FOR BICYCLES (sevendaycyclist.com) grease dressing its needle roller bearings, so just transplanted.    

 

The Jupiter’s design means it's extremely well-sealed from the elements, so an obvious choice for MTB and XC duties. Ironic perhaps that the Holdsworth and Teenage Dream are fair-weather playthings, but the Woodman’s design and refinement (coupled with the fact decent-quality headsets were becoming harder to source) swung it for me. Forks in, it was simply a matter of stacking up the spacers, refitting the cockpit, connecting the front brake, adjusting pad height, and the usual tweaks.  

 

I like the slight contrast between frame and fork, accentuated by the Knog NERD computer’s blue silicone casing. Had the fork been any darker, it would’ve looked a little too obvious (although could be toned down with a comparable, darker shade of blue bar tape). Anyhow, mission complete.  

 

Elsewhere, the switch to MKS NJS chain tugs subverts the need to detach the Topeak DX rack when accessing track nuts- adjusting the chain tension or removing the wheel-problem sorted.  

 

I decided now was the time to see how well the Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) was holding up on Ursula’s Hollowtech II axle, given the flooding and generally adverse conditions of recent months. It also presented an ideal opportunity to give the rings a good scrub. As the photos suggest, a reasonable amount of Peaty’s remained and was still doing its friction-busting, corrosion-stopping thing.  

 

However, I’d come this far and opted to strip and introduce this Wolf Tooth WT-G Grease. It’s a synthetic blend designed primarily for moving parts- hubs, headsets etc but apparently fine for contact points and threaded parts. Its reckoned stable between minus 50 and 180 degrees and promises low friction, longevity and high resistance to water, oxidisation and corrosion.  

 

The crank’s pinch bolts were completely devoid of grease, so were a little reticent to release. Nothing a shot of MO94 couldn’t sort, so I was sure to add a generous lick of the Wolf Tooth grease to them before refitting and torquing down to the recommended 12-14nm. Buttery smooth once more. The headset’s bottom race came next, and I stripped the rear Shimano CX50 brake, greased the canti posts and replaced the straddle wire.   

 

Talking of which, it's much easier to apply than some higher viscosity formulas – Juice Lubes Bearing Juice being a case in point, although the latter is really stubborn and being so thick makes a great host for loose balls. No escapees in the hub shell. However, the Wolf Tooth is supposedly designed for contact points and similar duties too, so I’ll be checking that out in the coming weeks and possibly months.  

 

Having switched the Holdsworth’s Miche Primato calliper for the long-reach Tiagra, I decided now was the time to upgrade the Teenage Dream’s lower end Miche Performance. Plenty of life in the pads, so I gave the callipers a quick clean and polish and bolted everything together. I’m sure I have the rear Primato somewhere in the spares stash. I’ll upgrade the Teenage Dream’s rear Performance unit when I unearth it. I'll close here with Steve's review of the Castelli Entrata Tights https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/castellientratatightsnopad