Cantilevers in the mist

The wintry weather gave way to the misty, mild and occasionally blustery stuff, typical of these shores around Christmas. Given the recent postal pilfering, I was relieved to return from a wet and greasy ride to discover a box of contraband had been taken in by a neighbour.

Unfortunately, a series of diplomatic incidents instigated by my elderly and very malevolent feline hastened their retrieval. This package came from Interloc Racing Design (IRD) http://www.interlocracing.com/

These are their CAFAM II cantilevers, which I had earmarked for the Univega. A classic wide arm design, sometimes described as MAFAC pattern. Their beautifully polished, CNC machined arms offer vastly superior mechanical advantage compared with modern, low profile types.

Look a little closer and you’ll notice they’re actually a marriage of retro and contemporary. Yes, there’s the old school cable anchor (which tightens via 10mm nut) less convenient, dare I say sleek, than modern Allen key patterns but effective nonetheless.

Yokozuna Cartridge Brake Shoes (Scott-Mathauser Gen-X salmon compound) are another force to be reckoned with and a doddle to setup.

That said; getting modulation and feel bang on proved trickier than I was expecting. Part of this was down to my brain engaging “M system default” but the combination of moustache bars and shorter reach Microshift brifters can also present minor challenges. If adjustment isn’t exacting, the brake lever will, more or less, touch the bars when engaged with any conviction.

On the subject of brake levers, ten years ago, I ran a similar configuration with Dia Compe V brake specific levers. Purely to see, just how dangerous, or otherwise the combination was.

Firstly, I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS PRACTICE. Simply put, using a V brake lever with a cantilever is the fastest way to pitch yourself over the bars, or lock the rear wheel.

With the Dia Compe, anything more than a faint caress of the lever raised the rear wheel several inches off the ground. Lesson learned.

The other word of caution concerns wide arm cantilevers and smaller frames.

Broader arms can catch heels and in some instances, foul racks/panniers. I may even substitute the On-One cantilevers for the Avid that were formerly up front, next time cable replacement calls. Meantime, I’ll switch over to the tubby tourer, variable gears and of course, testing the IRD.

With this in mind, I’ve added some “helicopter tape” around the top and head tube area. Rubberised cable cuffs are a real boon but wet gritty stuff and Kevlar housings can still make inroads into the paintwork. Yes, even properly applied powder coating.      

I frequently talk about tyres and tyre choice is particularly important during winter. Not only in terms of contact but also puncture resistance. Tackling punctures when it’s cold and dark is no fun.

With that in mind, Cross inspired fixer and I were thwarted by a very aggressive thorn on Thursday morning-I was already running a little behind schedule.

Having pulled over and selecting a sheltered clearing, I opened unzipped the passport wedge pack. Tyre levers, multi tool, cable ties…CO2 inflator…No tube…Patch kit, ummm. How did I manage to leave a tube out!!!

Morale descending close to my boots, I remembered the Upso Stirling https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/upso-stirling-seat-pack  nestling beneath those beefy drops. Peeling back the zipper tags and reaching in, I found one, yes packet fresh and ready to go. Phew! The miracle before Christmas had indeed materialised.

Thorn extracted, fresh butyl and, 55psi in the Nordic spike, we were back in business.  Now, some folks flat more than others but you can never have too many tubes. If you’re stuck stocking-filler wise, for the cyclist(s) in your life, tubes and Co2 inflators are good, practical bets…