Sore Points Fixed With Subtle Tweaks

I made the schoolboy error of whipping the Pro Stealth Saddle in situ, making cursory visual inspection and checked alignment with a straight edge (rather than a spirit level). Subsequently, I paid the price, 20 miles into our maiden voyage, my sit bones were screaming. 

However, being a seasoned tester of traditional leather saddles, I persevered. Fifteen miles into our second outing, my inner thigh was feeling decidedly raw. I concluded, mid ride that the saddle height was fractionally too low, with the Stealth. 

This, (coupled with the padding density) in turn was placing additional pressure, causing this discomfort.   Relieved to be home, time for a more detailed analysis. I produced a 5mm Allen key and raised the seat post by a few millimetres, then took a spirit level to things. Not far out but sufficient…Loosening the cradle bolt, tilting the saddle fractionally downwards, snugging the cradle bolt tight (while keeping a sharp eye on the level) cured this.

My Univega was sporting a fair amount of slimy, salty road filth and the Juice Lubes Ceramic Juice was looking a bit filmy. This prompted a quick cold-water rinse, followed by a sudsy bucket and drivetrain cleansing 

 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/juice-lubes-dirt-juice-chain-cleane

White Lightning Extreme Wet was the most obvious, default replacement. No curing time, plenty of staying prowess-should last through February. Delivering a few squirts of Juice Lubes JL69 Bike Maintenance Spray https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/juice-lubes-jl to cables and pivot points concluded said fettling episode…

Then I spotted some nasty looking sharps that had penetrated its rear Schwalbe Marathon Mondial Double Defence Tyres https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/schwalbe-marathon-mondial-tyres. Deflated the tyre, extracted the flints using nail tweezers, then filled the holes with superglue.

Oddly enough, some Tannus Tyre Liners had arrived for testing (although these were 700x32, so went to the Schwalbe Road Cruiser https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/scwalbe-road-cruiser-tyres Fortuitous too, since the Schwalbe had also succumbed to a flint induced flat.

Liner protectors work like another layer within the tyre, preventing thorns and similar sharps puncturing the tube. I recall Tuffy Tape from the late 80s. Some swore by it, others at it.

Those taking a more moderate (dare I say, rational) stance suggested they could work well but recommended checking their alignment periodically. This was to prevent them inducing precisely the flats they were intended to eliminate. 

These Tannus are less convenient to install than heavy duty butyl. They cite an additional 40 seconds. Maybe with assembly line familiarity but I took another 2/3 minutes first time round. Still, at 200g apiece, are considerably lighter than the Kenda Thornproof tubes (which have been my defaults during winter’s worst for nigh on a decade).

Retailing at £29.99, the Tannus are pretty much the going rate for liner technology. That said; money would be better spent on upgrading tyres, if you’re running unreliable budget rubber, or a higher end set are past their prime.  Tannus also reckon it’s possible to limp home on an otherwise flat tyre, without damaging the rim.

Taking this a stage further, this theoretically allows tyres to be run at really low pressures, say for additional grip on the trails, or a really icy road. Personally, in the latter context, I would’ve reached for the Schwalbe Marathon winter https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/schwalbe-winter-spiked-tyre, or comparable spiked tyre.

Back to saddles, I was still feeling a little raw, so switched exclusively to my fixed gear winter trainer and the Selle San Marco Concor SuperCorsa for a few days. Now, as I’ve said before, in some respects, it’s an old saddle but serves to illustrate that classic designs are still very relevant.

Yes, 320g might be a touch portly for some (those with bikes on Calorie controlled diets, in particular) but what’s a few grams if you can sit in comfort all day?  Arguably, black would’ve been a better fit with my working fixed’s colour scheme. I reckon the tan’s a nice contrast.

The Genetic D-Riser 4 Bars continue to impress me. For gravel/cyclo cross I’d stick with their D-Riser 16 siblings https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-d-riser-bars, which still perform very well on asphalt. 

However, I have been surprised to find the D-Riser 4 feel that bit sharper on relatively smooth roads-sweeping around S bend descents that kind of thing.

I haven’t noticed any real difference, when ascending and as with its sibling the 20degree rise is subtle but welcome, especially through congested traffic, or relaxing on a long day ride.   I'll do a few hundred miles more with these contact points, before reaching any firm conclusions.

Tricks & Treats

Yes, I know Halloween was last week. I have an academic interest in the occult and indeed, film. However, I loathe the commercialised American "door knocking" import. One that has seen a recent resurgence in popularity. 

Despite the K-lIte Bike Packer Ultra's prowess https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/k-lite-bikepacker-ultra-dynamo-ligh (and wearing the Pro Viz  360+ jacket) there were a couple of close calls. Drivers pulling out, without looking, at junctions. I've been riding for 33 years, so nothing new, though never a pleasant experience. 

The K-Lite Bike Packer Pro V2 Front Dynamo Light continues to impress with its power to size ratio. There are some minor shortcomings, but none I'd consider deal-breakers, especially given the design brief.
Here's some footage and a couple of stills. Both were captured using my Tom Tom Bandit. The stills contain a little grain but no shake. The seemingly rare-as-hens' teeth remote would come in really handy.  I'll manage without, unless one presents, at the right price. 

The Knog Cobber Mid Rear Light https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/knog-cobber-mid-rear-light has proven a good, tune able option for general riding. Sufficient bang for the back roads, and as a daylight running option, yet sensible for town and group riding. Run times are similarly favourable.  

Rains have also returned, after some brief respite. Univega and fixed gear winter/trainer remain grubbier than usual. However, gives an opportunity to really see how durable the Naked Bikes Wax holds up, long term. Its worth noting that all waxes are slowly eroded by salts and other chemicals over time.

Washing with sudsy household detergents being the fastest way of stripping. For best results, stick to a gentler shampoo and rinse machines down using cold water first. Especially during winter, since hot will simply accelerate the caustic properties of road salts. Waxes, sturdier tyres, lubes and mudguards (fenders) all extend ride to maintenance ratios, but laziness comes at a price.  Remember to grease contact points and of course, those little fasteners that often get forgotten. 

Waterproof luggage is another good investment. My Carradice Carradry SQR bag https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/carradice-carradry is doing the business handsomely. Steve's also been suitably impressed with Zefal Z Adventure F10 bar bag https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/zefal-z-adventure-f10-bar-bag

 
The Zefal Pro Wet Chain lube https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/zefal-pro-wet-chain-lube has certainly clung on, longer than I was expecting, from a relatively inexpensive wet blend. 375 miles from a single application isn't to be sneezed at, given the rainfall we've had here, in the UK. 

First sign of the lube's demise was on the fixed. Wondered why my little legs were struggling to winch us up the climbs. I had a rummage through my lubes box and plucked out Weldtite TF2 all weather chain lubricant. Another middleweight wet formula. One reckoned to cope in extremes of temperature. 

No sooner had I done so, a huge box of goodies arrived, from Juice Lubes.  This included their ceramic. Surprisingly enough, its designed for dusty to damp conditions, rather than winter per se. 

I'm told the Ceramic is a "100% synthetic lubricant containing special additives. Boron nitride features but without getting overly technical, the compound's lubricant properties are similar to graphite. Curiously, its reckoned resistant to salts and other contaminants.  On the plus side, its very straightforward to apply, and curing time is measured in minutes, not hours. 

I've also set aside time to brew up a fresh batch of wax-based corrosion inhibitor. Not that the weather has let up long enough, for me to consider applying it to the KA's underside. Frames also have plenty sloshing aroundtheir inner sanctums.  Nonetheless, its on hand when I need it. Cheap as the proverbial portion of chips, too. 

Snow Joke!

Staying upright in winter can be a significant challenge. Even if the snowman hasn’t brought the white stuff, black and sheet ice can provide the wrong sort of excitement. I even witnessed a horse losing traction along the backroads this week.

Yes, the past ten days or so have been perfect excuses for hibernating, or whirring away hamster fashion on the indoor trainer.  However, they’ve also presented an ideal opportunity to whip on spiked tyres and explore.

In this instance, I’ve been using Continental’s long running Nordic spike 120. 120 denotes the number of tungsten carbide spikes.

These are the 42mm (1.6 inch) 700c versions, which shouldn’t present much difficulty clearance-wise, with the latest generation of disc braked adventure touring Lorries, or gravel builds.

Pure breed crossers will definitely call for the measuring tape and a pause for thought-especially at the rear triangle. My beloved fixed gear winter/trainer’s rear triangle prohibits this and the 35mm Schwalbe Marathon Winter. Although a pairing is preferable, running a spiked tyre up front certainly makes a big difference to grip.

Just like any other tyre, spiked/studded versions come in different guises, depending on price and intended use.

While both the Schwalbe and Continental use sturdy wire bead casings that will slip aboard deep section rims pretty effortlessly, their tread and design and purposes are actually very different. Yes, both tread patterns scoop away the snow, the spikes then biting into the ice beneath, providing the traction.

However, while I’ve been able to go pretty much anywhere and at a decent pace with the Schwalbe, the 120 stud versions of Continental’s Nordic Spike are positioned along the shoulders.

This makes for swifter progress but favours less extreme, tarmac biased riding. Think slippery suburbs, rather than heavily carpeted lanes, backroads and forest trails. I’d be interested to see how their 240 spiked siblings compare against Schwalbe Marathon Winter.

Whatever model you’re plumping for, it’s worth remembering that while all will deliver reasonable performance on clear asphalt.t roads, bereft of snow and ice, the tread pattern and spikes will result in a degree of resistance.

Not to mention road noise. Both can be annoying but something I’m happy to live with during dicey times-infinitely preferable to coming off and potentially damaging expensive components, or breaking bones.

It’s also worth remembering that some countries recognise e-bikes as powered vehicles. Studded tyres are prohibited on some public roads on the grounds they damage road surfaces.

For this reason, though a faff, it’s worth double checking the law in your country/state before shelling out.  New to riding in and through winter? Have a look at our overviews https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/winter-wonderland-one

Speaking of grip, we’ve reached our conclusion regarding BBB’s flexribbon bar tape and I’ve been pleasantly surprised when everything (although particularly the asking price) is taken into account https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/bbb-bht-14-flexribbon-gel-bar-tape

Lubricants also need to strike a between staying prowess and cleanliness. Wiping down the side-plates weekly to remove ingrained, drivetrain consuming contaminant, is pretty mandatory for traditional wet formulas. Some riders, usually those who consider price to be the determining factor, regarding anything other than 10w/40 motor oil as “snake oil”.

On the plus side it’s cheap, plentiful and works well enough. However, I’ve tested a fair few bike specific wet lubes over the years and found several at different price points that run cleaner and last a fair bit longer too.

It’s too early to say whether the Nasty lube that arrived a couple of entries back will rival Weldtite Tf2 extreme wet https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/weldtite-tf2-extreme-wet-chain-lubr . Mind you, a little seems to be going a very long way and I’ve been traversing some very wet roads these past three hundred miles.

Right, well, after a filthy week’s testing, time I treated my beloved workhorse to a cold water rinse and sudsy bucket wash. Will treat it to this Soma Fabrication Shikoro armoured speed tyre up front and A Soma fabrications Supple Vitesse (700x33c) at the rear. www.somafab.com

Happy Christmas!

Polished Performance

Well, the wetter weather has arrived, meaning dirtier bikes and presenting an ideal opportunity to put this Pro Green MX triple pack through its paces. 

These are a little different to the classic bog standard, blow, scrub and rinse staples.  

Devised by a team with Moto Cross roots, I was expecting something a bit special from the Coventry based brand and generally speaking, I’ve been impressed. First up, we have their hi-performance cycle wash, which is a super rich, lathery, surface-friendly brew. Now, park bikes in your usual scrubbing spot, flick the trigger and apply top to toe from around thirty odd centimetres away.

Give ingrained gloop a quick tickle from your favourite soft brush, then leave marinating for five minutes, yes-five minutes before rinsing off with tepid water. I’d deliberately left the Univega’s middleweight PTFE infused chain prep cultivating gritty, lumpy contaminant to see how their drivetrain degreaser would shape up.

This one is also supposedly surface friendly, although clearly contains some mildly corrosive nasties given the warning labels. It can either be decanted into a clip-on chain bath, or brushed into the chain, cassette, rings and jockey wheels old school mechanic style.

Calling their bluff, I basted a light coating around the tubby tourer’s Shimano dynohub shell, rings, derailleurs and went in search of fresh water. This also needs five minutes to marinate. Time up, I sloshed water over the transmission parts. A tsunami of dull grey sludge pooled by my feet, leaving behind a gleaming chain, cassette and rings, which just needed a quick wipe-dry before being treated to some fresh lube. 

For the grand finale’ I treated paint and bright work to the brands’ After Shine 101. This is a blend of “emulsion silicones and waxes” designed to be applied in a fine mist and left air drying for thirty minutes-without any owner input.

Again, I was a little sceptical about the streak and sticky-free claims, especially since the pump-spray nozzle deposited splodges, rather than a fine mist, resulting in some unsightly runs.

These evaporated within a matter of minutes, almost before my eyes, imparting a really smooth, glossy coat. Not that the enamel was in poor shape but the after shine 101 masked some very minor imperfections and battle scars that come with eighteen years and 113,000 all weather miles.

In the coming weeks, I’ll be testing their prowess on different kinds of grot, more sophisticated lubricants and of course, seeing how effective the silicone infused film is at repelling spatter. 

In my experience, many silicone-based products produce a rich glossy shine but are ultimately sticky, attracting a grimy patina after only a few damp rides, so we’ll see...