Wax, Wheels, Caps & Brexit Bite

Easter’s bitterness has given way to fluctuating temperatures, so I’ve switched the wardrobe around a bit. ¾ lengths and shorts have been making appearances and I’ve switched to summer-weight caps, socks and gloves. Models such as this Buff Pack BUFF PACK BIKE CAP | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) wick faster, which is also helpful when conditions turn showery.  

A decent peak will also protect the eyes and face from the sun, blustery winds, and airborne particles. April’s changeable nature means I’ve been sticking with photochromic eyewear, which adjusts to different light progressively and accurately. This eliminates any need to switch lenses should strong sunlight give way to dull and overcast conditions. Liner-type gloves are another useful bridge between seasons, although look for those with some form of palm padding. I’m still very fond of these Specialized, which sport nice ulnar defending detailing.

 

The Bat wax is also notable for its cleanliness and staying prowess. Admittedly, I've not encountered monsoon rains (but few people would go the wax route, knowing this was forecast). However, it seems temperature stable. I was surprised to learn 'it's a synthetic wax employing a water-based carrier. The synthetic particles are apparently more tunable, hence it’s a thinner layer, which attracts less dirt, whereas old school formulas tend to trap the grit in the top layer and eventually flake away, leaving a thin lubricant layer behind.   

Clean drivetrains are good practice full stop. Essential when switching between lubricants, especially those of different genres. Wax formulas ae particularly sensitive to any pre-existing lubricant, especially petrochemicals. My fixed gear winter/trainer’s drivetrain being a case in point.  

I had treated it to a good, but not meticulous clean, hence why the Univega’s transmission remains pristine, and it quickly assumed a superficially scuzzy state. Deep cleans are essential when fitting fresh chains, especially if you are opting for something water/emulsion-based.  

Otherwise, the pre-existing layer will simply float the wax away. Having established this was just unsightly and wasn’t impairing performance, I removed the drive side cranks and treated the ring and chain to a liberal helping of degreaser. In this instance, I reached for Squirt Bike Cleaner Concentrate SQUIRT BIKE CLEANER CONCENTRATE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and chased any residual with Pure Bike Degreaser PURE BIKE DEGREASER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

I was surprised by the glaze of impacted, matted ceramic and wax formulas clinging to the Genetic Tibia ring GENETIC TIBIA TRACK CRANKS & RING | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) but this combination stripped it bare, with some gentle agitation and a liberal, warm water rinse.  Steve has been quite impressed with Muc-Off Bio Degreaser MUC-OFF BIO DEGREASER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

Dried, refitted and tension tweaked, I applied another helping of Bat Wax and left curing for seven hours, before popping out for an evening blast. I’d passed the 250mile mark on Ursula before things turned a bit filmy, so just added another light coat, put the old girl away and then left the Bat Wax curing for another 24 hours. Drizzled a couple of drops on the cleat mechanisms and the Kinekt 2.1 Seatpost’s moving components KINEKT 2.1 SUSPENSION SEAT POST | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), since I was there, and the post was emitting a very subtle squeak.  

Decided it was also time to do some refurbishment of the Teenage dream’s wheelset. Nothing major, since they are basically true (although would benefit from a wheel builder’s touch) and have seldom seen wet roads these past 30 years. 

 

However, I’d need to whip the freewheel and I may as well strip and regrease the Athena hub, while I’m there. The freewheel was caked in a waxy glaze, which was useful enough protection in storage but looked scuzzy, so dismissed and I treated the freewheel to liberal helpings of heavy-duty PTFE lube, while I wait for the Park Tool FR4 freewheel removal tool to show up.  

Thanks to the combination of Covid 19 and Brexit, stocks are low, and the original, proposed supplier was talking in terms of 5-6 weeks lead time. Another says two weeks, so I’ve gone that route. These long lead times are also affecting other industries- replacement car components being one of them. Particularly (although not exclusively) those for European marques. Then, of course, there are additional tariffs, likely arising from the UK’s hard Brexit- an unwelcome double whammy.  

That aside; nice to see that Park still offers one, since while fond of retro, I’m not paying fancy prices. That goes for cars, motorcycles, cameras too.  I’m very attached to the “Teenage Dream” and it’s still a joy to ride, but quaint by contemporary standards. Ah but while the nostalgic is misguided and arguably unable to embrace the future, the cynic knows the price of everything and the value of nothing...  

The Chain Again

 

As I predicted, two weeks hence, the chain tool tolled judgement day for my Univega’s chain. The blend of flooded, silty roads, wet lube and long, steady miles had done the deed. I was rather hoping this would coincide with the arrival of a 38 tooth CNC machined ring, but hey-ho.  

No sense shortening cassette, derailleur and ring-life. Since I’m running a 1X setup, ring wear is less of an issue compared of a double, or triple. A few minutes rummaging in my freshly reconfigured transmission spares bin and I emerged triumphant, with a nice shiny KMC.  

I know a lot of folks like the “magic links” and they can be super-convenient. I just prefer the security of a traditional pin, so pruned and joined accordingly. This served to highlight a very palpable, matted layer of wet lube and accumulated contaminant engulfing the cassette.  

Out came the Juice Lubes Dirt Juice Chain Cleaner https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/juice-lubes-dirt-juice-chain-cleane. 

Transmission stripped bare; I’ve decided in favour of a more basic middleweight ISO/PTFE lube. Less stoical than a wet lube but much cleaner, and March is looking less challenging weather-wise.  In any case, I will be switching to this Pro Gold Pro Link Chain Lube, which should be a good fit, season-wise. 

According to their blurb its  

“A thin-bodied lubricant which utilizes metal friction reducer technology for smooth shifting and a quiet drive train. Does not build up or become tacky; sheds dirt, mud, and abrasives. Also repels moisture and prevents corrosion”. Will be interesting to see how it performs in the real world. 

Surprising just how much difference a new chain can make to the transmission. On many levels this is obvious, but the existing chain had only just reached pensionable, rather than being completely shot. Shifts were immediately snappier and more reliable. More remarkable was just how quickly weather and contaminant euthanised it.    

I’m still looking around for a 38 tooth 94BCD ring, which will afford a more seamless choice of gears. For years, Chris Bell produced precision-engineered bespoke elliptical and round rings but sadly, succumbed to prostate cancer in 2016. 

By the same token, while I’m keen to keep solid components going, a new, external bearing crankset, might prove the most cost-effective solution. Assuming of course, I can’t acquire a 5-arm Stronglight/similar at a favourable price.  

The other option is to plump for a smaller ring and road-biased cassette. I’ve run this configuration in the past. However, unless the former was seriously cheap, it would also mean replacing the cassette.  

A moot point, if both were edging close to retirement, but they’re not. While I love a well-stocked spares bin and the economics/horizons this presents, I don’t want to be hoarding heaps of stuff that are too much of a compromise (and thus won’t get used, let alone worn out).  

Rounding up the drivetrain theme, this Topeak All Speeds Chain Tool also arrived for testing. Aside from the industrial good looks, it includes a chain hook to hold the chain together while you drive the pin home.  

I was also pleased to note there’s a spare drive pin that’s threaded into the base. Not only does the design promise to tackle chains from single, through to 12 speeds, this includes Campagnolo 11speed hollow types.

  

This purging also prompted me to polish and wax the frameset.  

Grit can slip behind cables, leading to paint-chew. Protective cable rubbers and clear stickers/ “helicopter” tape are the simplest, most effective preventions. In my experience, thicker ready-cut frame protection patches are quite durable.  

Eventually, PTFE rich maintenance (and other solvent-based aerosol products, for that matter) will dissolve their adhesives-especially those around the head, seat tube and chainstays, inducing lift and peel. This time round, I plumped for a supermarket wax, primarily because it was within easy reach. Bargain basement but easy to apply, and supposedly suitable for all surfaces.   

Staying with cleaning a moment, Steve and I have been very impressed with Rock N’ Roll Miracle Red Concentrate Multi-Purpose Bike Cleaner https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/rock-n-roll-miracle-red 

An incredible versatile that will clean everything from scuzzy steeds and grimy hands, to carpets and clothing.  Those who want to add a little electrical assistance to their commute, or utility ride might be interested in our review of this Raleigh Stow E Way Folding E Bike   https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/raleigh-stow-e-way-folding-e-bike