Wax, Wheels, Caps & Brexit Bite

Easter’s bitterness has given way to fluctuating temperatures, so I’ve switched the wardrobe around a bit. ¾ lengths and shorts have been making appearances and I’ve switched to summer-weight caps, socks and gloves. Models such as this Buff Pack BUFF PACK BIKE CAP | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) wick faster, which is also helpful when conditions turn showery.  

A decent peak will also protect the eyes and face from the sun, blustery winds, and airborne particles. April’s changeable nature means I’ve been sticking with photochromic eyewear, which adjusts to different light progressively and accurately. This eliminates any need to switch lenses should strong sunlight give way to dull and overcast conditions. Liner-type gloves are another useful bridge between seasons, although look for those with some form of palm padding. I’m still very fond of these Specialized, which sport nice ulnar defending detailing.

 

The Bat wax is also notable for its cleanliness and staying prowess. Admittedly, I've not encountered monsoon rains (but few people would go the wax route, knowing this was forecast). However, it seems temperature stable. I was surprised to learn 'it's a synthetic wax employing a water-based carrier. The synthetic particles are apparently more tunable, hence it’s a thinner layer, which attracts less dirt, whereas old school formulas tend to trap the grit in the top layer and eventually flake away, leaving a thin lubricant layer behind.   

Clean drivetrains are good practice full stop. Essential when switching between lubricants, especially those of different genres. Wax formulas ae particularly sensitive to any pre-existing lubricant, especially petrochemicals. My fixed gear winter/trainer’s drivetrain being a case in point.  

I had treated it to a good, but not meticulous clean, hence why the Univega’s transmission remains pristine, and it quickly assumed a superficially scuzzy state. Deep cleans are essential when fitting fresh chains, especially if you are opting for something water/emulsion-based.  

Otherwise, the pre-existing layer will simply float the wax away. Having established this was just unsightly and wasn’t impairing performance, I removed the drive side cranks and treated the ring and chain to a liberal helping of degreaser. In this instance, I reached for Squirt Bike Cleaner Concentrate SQUIRT BIKE CLEANER CONCENTRATE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and chased any residual with Pure Bike Degreaser PURE BIKE DEGREASER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

I was surprised by the glaze of impacted, matted ceramic and wax formulas clinging to the Genetic Tibia ring GENETIC TIBIA TRACK CRANKS & RING | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) but this combination stripped it bare, with some gentle agitation and a liberal, warm water rinse.  Steve has been quite impressed with Muc-Off Bio Degreaser MUC-OFF BIO DEGREASER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

Dried, refitted and tension tweaked, I applied another helping of Bat Wax and left curing for seven hours, before popping out for an evening blast. I’d passed the 250mile mark on Ursula before things turned a bit filmy, so just added another light coat, put the old girl away and then left the Bat Wax curing for another 24 hours. Drizzled a couple of drops on the cleat mechanisms and the Kinekt 2.1 Seatpost’s moving components KINEKT 2.1 SUSPENSION SEAT POST | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), since I was there, and the post was emitting a very subtle squeak.  

Decided it was also time to do some refurbishment of the Teenage dream’s wheelset. Nothing major, since they are basically true (although would benefit from a wheel builder’s touch) and have seldom seen wet roads these past 30 years. 

 

However, I’d need to whip the freewheel and I may as well strip and regrease the Athena hub, while I’m there. The freewheel was caked in a waxy glaze, which was useful enough protection in storage but looked scuzzy, so dismissed and I treated the freewheel to liberal helpings of heavy-duty PTFE lube, while I wait for the Park Tool FR4 freewheel removal tool to show up.  

Thanks to the combination of Covid 19 and Brexit, stocks are low, and the original, proposed supplier was talking in terms of 5-6 weeks lead time. Another says two weeks, so I’ve gone that route. These long lead times are also affecting other industries- replacement car components being one of them. Particularly (although not exclusively) those for European marques. Then, of course, there are additional tariffs, likely arising from the UK’s hard Brexit- an unwelcome double whammy.  

That aside; nice to see that Park still offers one, since while fond of retro, I’m not paying fancy prices. That goes for cars, motorcycles, cameras too.  I’m very attached to the “Teenage Dream” and it’s still a joy to ride, but quaint by contemporary standards. Ah but while the nostalgic is misguided and arguably unable to embrace the future, the cynic knows the price of everything and the value of nothing...  

Big Chill AKA the Spikes Stay!

No, I’m not predicting a boiler breakdown, which like many other mechanicals, usually strikes at the least convenient moment. I’m referring to the crashing temperatures and “white-outs” (a seasonal obsession with some sections of the UK’s mainstream media, presumably to distract from the consequences of Brexit. I’m starting to notice shortages of fresh produce in supermarkets and suspect this will become more apparent since fresh fruit and vegetable produce cannot be stockpiled.).  

Until Wednesday, local lanes have been predominantly cold, wet and greasy but nothing a big section slick, such as the Schwalbe Kojak couldn’t take in their stride.  

Nonetheless, I knew Murphey’s law would see temperature plummet the moment I switched the spikes in favour of slicks. A sharp reminder came when navigating the serenely silent stretches. Starry skies, glistening asphalt cluing me in and sure enough, around the bend- black ice.  

A momentary loss of traction was quickly reclaimed by the Marathon Plus’ Tungsten carbide spikes. Seeing the depth of the shimmering ice looming ahead (and clinging to the bodies of solitary passing vehicles), urged caution. I have also chosen to resurrect the ORP Smart Horn TESTED: ORP SMART HORN (sevendaycyclist.com) to alert pedestrians/dogwalkers of my presence. For the most part, friendly “Good morning/Afternoon/Evening” works fine. However, cold weather and winds can impair this, so a friendly upward prod of the “Whale tail” should sort this.   

Sticking with the Univega means sodden backsides are a distant memory, thanks to its full-length chrome plastic mudguards. These also keep the bike markedly cleaner, thus extending maintenance intervals. I was surprised to discover some superficial brown taint on the nickel-plated areas of Ursula’s Shimano M540 pedals. Especially since I didn’t notice any salting beyond the main roads. Nothing a quick shot of GT85 GT85 ALL PURPOSE LUBRICANT (sevendaycyclist.com) couldn’t smother.  

Nonetheless, a weekly wash down is advisable to remove any salts/similar corrosives and while stodgy wet lubes are an obvious choice, give a chain’s side plates, derailleur jockey wheels, and cage(s) a clean rag cat-lick. Purging this unsightly excess evolving into a gritty grinding paste.  

Really impacted stuff is best blitzed with a solvent-based degreaser, and fresh lubricant applied. Chill and shorter days mean convenience is sometimes king. Strong solvent degreasers, including Weldtite Jet Blast WELDTITE JET BLAST DEGREASER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) make this a more time-efficient process, when the temperature’s tanking. Those looking for a more frugal lube stripper might find Muc-Off Drivetrain Cleaner MUC-OFF DRIVE TRAIN CLEANER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) .  

For really deep cleans, I’m fond of Green Oil Agent Apple Extreme Immersion Degreaser TESTED: GREE OIL AGENT APPLE EXTREME IMMERSION DEGREASER (sevendaycyclist.com) . Don’t be fooled into thinking vegetable-based solvents are mild and friendly though. These can be just as, or more flammable than their petrochemical counterparts.  

Testing aside, I’ve never felt the need to remove and immerse the cassette (although this is certainly an option and something I’d be inclined to do, with chains-if only to protect the frame’s finish from accidental spatter). However, I do whip the wheel out before basting the product on, angling the cassette toward the tarmac, so solvent runs away from the hub and therefore, rubberised components, such as seals.   

     

I’ve also purchased another UN300 bottom bracket, to subvert potential supply problems nearer the time, when its existing UN55 starts grumbling. I occasionally toy with the idea of taking the Hollowtech route, probably reaching for the Shimano Zee crankset, since that’s “in stock”. However, I have the ratios right and it makes sense to run the existing setup, while its practical and economic to do so. I was going to order a few gear inner wires but found four, while rooting around my storage boxes.  

Cursory inspection, using this Kranx Chain Wear Indicator KRANX CHAIN WEAR INDICATOR | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) suggests the chain’s still in pretty good health, reckon I’ve got another three, maybe four hundred miles before substitution’s needed. Little n’ often maintenance is the way to swerving most problems.  

However, the COVID19 pandemic continues to rampage through the country. It has reached the point where the capital’s firefighters and police officers are now driving ambulances. I knew the relaxing of conditions for Christmas day would induce another pronounced spike in infection rates and envisaged the army’s engagement. However, I hadn’t envisaged the present chaos, which is both surreal and unsettling.