Big Chill AKA the Spikes Stay!

No, I’m not predicting a boiler breakdown, which like many other mechanicals, usually strikes at the least convenient moment. I’m referring to the crashing temperatures and “white-outs” (a seasonal obsession with some sections of the UK’s mainstream media, presumably to distract from the consequences of Brexit. I’m starting to notice shortages of fresh produce in supermarkets and suspect this will become more apparent since fresh fruit and vegetable produce cannot be stockpiled.).  

Until Wednesday, local lanes have been predominantly cold, wet and greasy but nothing a big section slick, such as the Schwalbe Kojak couldn’t take in their stride.  

Nonetheless, I knew Murphey’s law would see temperature plummet the moment I switched the spikes in favour of slicks. A sharp reminder came when navigating the serenely silent stretches. Starry skies, glistening asphalt cluing me in and sure enough, around the bend- black ice.  

A momentary loss of traction was quickly reclaimed by the Marathon Plus’ Tungsten carbide spikes. Seeing the depth of the shimmering ice looming ahead (and clinging to the bodies of solitary passing vehicles), urged caution. I have also chosen to resurrect the ORP Smart Horn TESTED: ORP SMART HORN (sevendaycyclist.com) to alert pedestrians/dogwalkers of my presence. For the most part, friendly “Good morning/Afternoon/Evening” works fine. However, cold weather and winds can impair this, so a friendly upward prod of the “Whale tail” should sort this.   

Sticking with the Univega means sodden backsides are a distant memory, thanks to its full-length chrome plastic mudguards. These also keep the bike markedly cleaner, thus extending maintenance intervals. I was surprised to discover some superficial brown taint on the nickel-plated areas of Ursula’s Shimano M540 pedals. Especially since I didn’t notice any salting beyond the main roads. Nothing a quick shot of GT85 GT85 ALL PURPOSE LUBRICANT (sevendaycyclist.com) couldn’t smother.  

Nonetheless, a weekly wash down is advisable to remove any salts/similar corrosives and while stodgy wet lubes are an obvious choice, give a chain’s side plates, derailleur jockey wheels, and cage(s) a clean rag cat-lick. Purging this unsightly excess evolving into a gritty grinding paste.  

Really impacted stuff is best blitzed with a solvent-based degreaser, and fresh lubricant applied. Chill and shorter days mean convenience is sometimes king. Strong solvent degreasers, including Weldtite Jet Blast WELDTITE JET BLAST DEGREASER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) make this a more time-efficient process, when the temperature’s tanking. Those looking for a more frugal lube stripper might find Muc-Off Drivetrain Cleaner MUC-OFF DRIVE TRAIN CLEANER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) .  

For really deep cleans, I’m fond of Green Oil Agent Apple Extreme Immersion Degreaser TESTED: GREE OIL AGENT APPLE EXTREME IMMERSION DEGREASER (sevendaycyclist.com) . Don’t be fooled into thinking vegetable-based solvents are mild and friendly though. These can be just as, or more flammable than their petrochemical counterparts.  

Testing aside, I’ve never felt the need to remove and immerse the cassette (although this is certainly an option and something I’d be inclined to do, with chains-if only to protect the frame’s finish from accidental spatter). However, I do whip the wheel out before basting the product on, angling the cassette toward the tarmac, so solvent runs away from the hub and therefore, rubberised components, such as seals.   

     

I’ve also purchased another UN300 bottom bracket, to subvert potential supply problems nearer the time, when its existing UN55 starts grumbling. I occasionally toy with the idea of taking the Hollowtech route, probably reaching for the Shimano Zee crankset, since that’s “in stock”. However, I have the ratios right and it makes sense to run the existing setup, while its practical and economic to do so. I was going to order a few gear inner wires but found four, while rooting around my storage boxes.  

Cursory inspection, using this Kranx Chain Wear Indicator KRANX CHAIN WEAR INDICATOR | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) suggests the chain’s still in pretty good health, reckon I’ve got another three, maybe four hundred miles before substitution’s needed. Little n’ often maintenance is the way to swerving most problems.  

However, the COVID19 pandemic continues to rampage through the country. It has reached the point where the capital’s firefighters and police officers are now driving ambulances. I knew the relaxing of conditions for Christmas day would induce another pronounced spike in infection rates and envisaged the army’s engagement. However, I hadn’t envisaged the present chaos, which is both surreal and unsettling.  

Got the Horn!

 

Bells are one of those annoying adornments fitted to new bikes, sold here in the UK. Beyond this particular legislative compulsions, they have little practical use. Inflamed tonsils aside, a well timed greeting, or yell works better (especially in dense, urban traffic) weighs and costs nothing.

A few manufacturers have developed horns, with varying degrees of success. Power, at least in the decibel sense was never a problem but even if the horn component didn’t consume much handlebar, it often gobbled a bottle cage.

Some also proved borderline aggressive-not what’s needed when you want to gently alert pedestrians of your approach, say along a forest trail, or designated shared use path.  Oregon based ORP https://orpland.com/ have kindly sent Seven Day Cyclist www.sevendaycyclist.com the latest version of their little horn, which combines a 5 mode LED light, capable of delivering 140 lumens and two mode horn.  

This blue version is for illustrative purposes only, since ours seem to have been “intercepted” by someone in the postal service. It’s tracked and apparently signed for but not by me, or a representative of.  I digress..

The cube shaped design, encased in a big silicone blanket, is, dimensions-wise, a blinkey on cortisone, so compact enough, even for my Holdsworth’s cockpit. The horn component has two decibel levels commanded by the “whale tail” switch. 76 for polite “I’m approaching” 96 for letting rip on the streets.

There’s an optional "Remorp" bar mounted extension cable, similar to that employed on some lights. The Moon Meteor Storm Pro https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/moon-meteor-storm-pro-front-light and Moon LX760 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/moon-lx760-front-light being cases in point. For cleanest aesthetic, arguably these should be run beneath the bar wrap.

I’m inclined to go this route, say with super sticky silicones, which don’t feature an adhesive backing, or alternatively, if you change bar wraps seasonally, along with control cables.

There’s a sound rationale’ for doing so, especially if you rack up big mileages. This practice isn’t simply about boosting morale during the darker months, or indeed a desire to buy new stuff. Rather, it could be considered a discipline, presenting the ideal opportunity to inspect contact points for early signs of fatigue.

Elsewhere, I’ve solved the phantom flatting problem with my MK2 Ilpompino build’s rear wheel-the one so meticulously crafted by John Moss a few weeks back. Revisiting with fresh eyes, it seems the rim-tape I’d used had shifted and with realignment, literally disintegrated. Some fresh Schwalbe in situ, new tube and Schwalbe Marathon 365 remounted, pressure’s holding nicely.

I was hoping to run it in, over the next couple of weeks but some other, project management (building works) is making access to my beloved working fixed tricky. Talking of which, I would be interested in trying the V4, which aside from disbanding the wish bone rear triangle, has reputedly adopted a more aggressive geometry-without losing its all weather versatility. http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/CBOOPOMPKOJV4/on-one-pompino-v4-drop-bar-urban-bike

Aside from some rather fetching wet spray colours, they’re also offering a raw version with a clear coat finish, which also intrigues me. I’d be interested to see how tough it was, compared with its 2pac counterparts; especially subjected to salty, winter roads.

I’ve had 7005 and 6061 aluminium alloy framesets hold up pretty well in these contexts, although ultimately stone chips allow moisture and condensation to build up beneath the lacquer, causing it to flake and in some cases, minor corrosion en route.    

Access issues and the arrival of the TF2 ultra dry wax has presented the opportunity to get the miles in on my Univega. Some would argue-not without grounds, that dry lubes are not meant for wet weather. I wouldn’t advocate their use during the depths of winter but it’s fair to say that summers are not always arid.

We’d expect a few wet rides and most lubes to remain in situ-especially during the summer months. In common with the Pure dry lube, it seems to be one of those which just attracts less dirt, rather than a self cleaning emulsion type that flakes off, taking contaminant en route. So far I’m impressed with its cleanliness and low friction. Be interesting to see how tenacious it is during a sustained period of changeable weather.