Wax, Wheels, Caps & Brexit Bite

Easter’s bitterness has given way to fluctuating temperatures, so I’ve switched the wardrobe around a bit. ¾ lengths and shorts have been making appearances and I’ve switched to summer-weight caps, socks and gloves. Models such as this Buff Pack BUFF PACK BIKE CAP | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) wick faster, which is also helpful when conditions turn showery.  

A decent peak will also protect the eyes and face from the sun, blustery winds, and airborne particles. April’s changeable nature means I’ve been sticking with photochromic eyewear, which adjusts to different light progressively and accurately. This eliminates any need to switch lenses should strong sunlight give way to dull and overcast conditions. Liner-type gloves are another useful bridge between seasons, although look for those with some form of palm padding. I’m still very fond of these Specialized, which sport nice ulnar defending detailing.

 

The Bat wax is also notable for its cleanliness and staying prowess. Admittedly, I've not encountered monsoon rains (but few people would go the wax route, knowing this was forecast). However, it seems temperature stable. I was surprised to learn 'it's a synthetic wax employing a water-based carrier. The synthetic particles are apparently more tunable, hence it’s a thinner layer, which attracts less dirt, whereas old school formulas tend to trap the grit in the top layer and eventually flake away, leaving a thin lubricant layer behind.   

Clean drivetrains are good practice full stop. Essential when switching between lubricants, especially those of different genres. Wax formulas ae particularly sensitive to any pre-existing lubricant, especially petrochemicals. My fixed gear winter/trainer’s drivetrain being a case in point.  

I had treated it to a good, but not meticulous clean, hence why the Univega’s transmission remains pristine, and it quickly assumed a superficially scuzzy state. Deep cleans are essential when fitting fresh chains, especially if you are opting for something water/emulsion-based.  

Otherwise, the pre-existing layer will simply float the wax away. Having established this was just unsightly and wasn’t impairing performance, I removed the drive side cranks and treated the ring and chain to a liberal helping of degreaser. In this instance, I reached for Squirt Bike Cleaner Concentrate SQUIRT BIKE CLEANER CONCENTRATE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and chased any residual with Pure Bike Degreaser PURE BIKE DEGREASER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

I was surprised by the glaze of impacted, matted ceramic and wax formulas clinging to the Genetic Tibia ring GENETIC TIBIA TRACK CRANKS & RING | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) but this combination stripped it bare, with some gentle agitation and a liberal, warm water rinse.  Steve has been quite impressed with Muc-Off Bio Degreaser MUC-OFF BIO DEGREASER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

Dried, refitted and tension tweaked, I applied another helping of Bat Wax and left curing for seven hours, before popping out for an evening blast. I’d passed the 250mile mark on Ursula before things turned a bit filmy, so just added another light coat, put the old girl away and then left the Bat Wax curing for another 24 hours. Drizzled a couple of drops on the cleat mechanisms and the Kinekt 2.1 Seatpost’s moving components KINEKT 2.1 SUSPENSION SEAT POST | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), since I was there, and the post was emitting a very subtle squeak.  

Decided it was also time to do some refurbishment of the Teenage dream’s wheelset. Nothing major, since they are basically true (although would benefit from a wheel builder’s touch) and have seldom seen wet roads these past 30 years. 

 

However, I’d need to whip the freewheel and I may as well strip and regrease the Athena hub, while I’m there. The freewheel was caked in a waxy glaze, which was useful enough protection in storage but looked scuzzy, so dismissed and I treated the freewheel to liberal helpings of heavy-duty PTFE lube, while I wait for the Park Tool FR4 freewheel removal tool to show up.  

Thanks to the combination of Covid 19 and Brexit, stocks are low, and the original, proposed supplier was talking in terms of 5-6 weeks lead time. Another says two weeks, so I’ve gone that route. These long lead times are also affecting other industries- replacement car components being one of them. Particularly (although not exclusively) those for European marques. Then, of course, there are additional tariffs, likely arising from the UK’s hard Brexit- an unwelcome double whammy.  

That aside; nice to see that Park still offers one, since while fond of retro, I’m not paying fancy prices. That goes for cars, motorcycles, cameras too.  I’m very attached to the “Teenage Dream” and it’s still a joy to ride, but quaint by contemporary standards. Ah but while the nostalgic is misguided and arguably unable to embrace the future, the cynic knows the price of everything and the value of nothing...  

Scuzz! Purging Those Drivetrain Demons

 Much as I expected, the snow turned to slush and ultimately lots of surface water. Looking at the Univega’s chain, the Zefal Extra Wet Ceramic Chain Lube ZEFAL EXTRA WET NANO CERAMIC CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) was beginning to look a little filmy, and the chain’s side plates looking like they’d been immersed in instant gravy granules. Interrogation of the cassette and derailleur jockey wheels suggested we were beyond cat lick and top-up.  

An opportunity to test this Pure Bike Degreaser a quick test run. Pure prides itself on being petrochemical free and I’m all for products that are kind and yet effective. This is a citrus-based grime gobbler. However, caution is still required with a lot of plant-based products, solvents, specifically, given the potential for a loud, roof-lifting explosion. 

 

In this instance, there’s nothing to go “bang” but plenty of warnings around potentially serious eye damage. Citrus formulas can also be a little harsh on the skin, so examination gloves and safety glasses are a good bet. In common with a lot of lube-strippers, its designed to be rinsed with water.  

Anyhow, my intended transmission grooming evolved into a full-blown, top to toe wash and Carnauba waxing.  

Now I like waxing and I like testing waxes. Mine is from a protectant (rather than aesthetic) perspective. Opinions vary and to be honest, it will depend on a number of factors, but in my view, bikes should be treated to a good quality paste/liquid wax at least three times per year.  

Doing so nourishes the paintwork and protects finishes from the elements-sap, salt, UV light etc, 

Waxes also prevent water and muck from sticking so readily, making cleaning easier. Basic car types are good enough, for the most part, although those, including this Muc-Off Miracle Shine, offer a better sheen and last a bit longer if you can justify the initial asking price. However, a little goes a long way, so the cost levels out, over time. 

Back to the degreaser, it wasn’t as voracious as I was anticipating-at least on the gunky remnants clinging to my Univega’s cassette. I’d left it a few minutes to marinate, worked in into the sprockets, side plates, and Raval ring (while avoiding any splashes/similar, to settle on painted surfaces.)  

This was subsequently rinsed with warm water, while I simultaneously worked a gel bike cleaner into a lather, using the Zefal ZB Wash Brush ZEFAL ZB WASH BRUSH | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). Much as I suspected, the Pure needs agitating with a transmission/similarly stiff brush. Therefore, best to strip cassettes, chains, rings etc, and pop them in a makeshift/parts washer, rather than tackle them in situ.   

In my experience, bristle plots eventually cultivate greasy, cross-contaminating colic.  

The Zefal ZB Wash Brush has just succumbed to that, so I poured some Weldtite Citrus degreaser into a clear punnet. I worked this into the bristles and left the brush marinating for a couple of days, before flushing through with very warm water.  

Elsewhere, I’ve applied some ACF50 to the cleats, to head off fastener seizure and brown taint on the nickel-plated cleat mechanisms.  A sudden reversion to mild weather means snow has melted, and the return of waterlogged roads.  

However, I’ve resisted switching back to the Kojak, since temperatures could plummet in the coming week, courtesy of Storm Christoph, turning greasy roads to ice rinks and some reports promising 1.5 feet (45cm) of snow.     

Dual-sided SPDs have been my default for a very long time-effortless engagement/release, great power transfer, and easy to walk in, especially when roads and pavements become skating rinks.  

For others, dual-sided models such as these Genetic Switch GENETIC SWITCH PEDALS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  are the best of both worlds. I’m quite fond of them, too. Especially for commuting and other “working” bikes, since they permit a wider choice of footwear.   

Ending this post on the opening note, here’s my review of the Weldtite Bike Cleaner WELDTITE BIKE CLEANER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)